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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    The great thing about this Forum is that it provides suggestions and answers to issues specific to this one brand and model. And if you can't find your problem in the archives by doing a search, you can simply post here and get feedback from folks who have been there, done that. What was tried. What worked. What didn't.

    I signed on 10 years ago and bought a used 1998 Autobahn Aurora. I have not ducked some expensive repairs. I use a local mechanic because he flat out diagnoses issues and fixes them first pass, no bringbacks YET. But during the past 2 years (aging car), thanks to this Forum and its selfless members, I have been able to do some research or inquiries on my particular problems before I took the car in and provide that heads-up to my mechanic.

    The back up plan to my local mechanic is always the local Cadillac dealer that also was a long time Olds dealer. They have seen it all with this car, and many times. I just don't like their price tag on the repairs and prefer to support my local busness who has provided excellent service at a fair price, as well as pick up and return of the car.

    Thanks to exchef and 99dodge for jumping in here. PLEASE keep us posted on the results of their recommendations. All of us will benefit.
  • stanyellestanyelle Member Posts: 1
    i have an 2003 olds aurora 4.0 with 123000 miles on it. i have had it for about a 1 1/2 years. i do love my car but since i have had it i have put thousands of dollars in to it. currently my problem with the car is a very bad oil leak and a small coolant leak and also my rims are so bad that they do not hold air in the tires. i did buy new rims but not sure if i should put them on yet due to the fact that when i get one thing fixed another thing goes wrong. also the motor to my windshield wiper fluid doesnt work and my interior light fuse keeps blowing out. like i said i do love my car but there are times when i hate it. the car runs fine. what i want to know is should i sell it and let it be someone elses problem or just get it fixed. :sick:
  • zazozazo Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 aurora can you give me a list of tools needed and step-by-step instructions to change front wheel bearings my email is stevelloyd7@yahoo.ca thank-you
  • dkocchidkocchi Member Posts: 6
    I have a 95 Aurora and it recently started to leak fuel in the engine compartment. I have heard about the fuel rail recall and was wondering is that rail under the car or in the engine compartment. I have 3 fuel lines that are coming into the engine compartment it looks like 1 or 2 of them are leaking at the fitting. Is this the recall culpret?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Product Safety - Engine Fuel Rail - Replace

    # 04014C - (Oct 1, 2004)
    Models:
    1995-1997 Cadillac DeVille Concours, Seville, Eldorado
    1996-1997 Cadillac DeVille

    Equipped with 4.6L V8 (RPO LD8 - VIN Y; RPO L37 - VIN 9) Engine

    1995-1997 Oldsmobile Aurora

    Equipped with 4.0L V8 (RPO L47 - VIN C) Engine

    THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO ADD 1997 CADILLAC MODEL VEHICLES. PLEASE DISCARD SAFETY RECALL BULLETIN NUMBER 04014B, DATED SEPTEMBER 2004.

    Condition

    General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in all 1995-1997 Cadillac DeVille Concours, Seville and Eldorado, 1996-1997 Cadillac DeVille; and 1995-1997 Oldsmobile Aurora model vehicles. These vehicles have a condition in which the original equipment nylon tubing used in the fuel rail construction may degrade and crack. Additionally, the 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora uses a unique underhood fuel return line that may crack at unusually high rates. Cracking of the fuel rail can result in a fuel leak into the engine compartment. The operator may experience fuel odor and possibly engine stalling due to loss of fuel pressure to the engine. If this event were to occur, and if an ignition source were present, an engine compartment fire could occur.

    Correction

    Dealers are to inspect and, if necessary, replace the engine fuel rail with a new stainless steel fuel rail. Dealers will also replace the chassis fuel lines on 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora model vehicles from serial # S4100001 to S4147771
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I see that our host answered your question. The fuel rail is on top of the engine and feeds each of the eight injectors. The return line runs under the car. Get it fixed quick! Several Auroras have been lost to fire.
  • gmfamilygmfamily Member Posts: 2
    Hi Les,

    Been watching your posts through the years since I bought my 99 in '01. Have over 104,000 on it and i hope to add another 104,000. I just replaced my oil pressure switch but am having a hard time reconnecting the wire, as there is a motor mount (and exhaust pipe) in my way. I could reconnect it prior to screwing in the switch, but there's too much torsion in the wiring as I'm threading it in to provide a tight connection. Any special technique/suggestions in reconnecting, or do i just need a contortionist's hand?

    Thanks in advance and arrears for your advice over the years!

    George
  • dkocchidkocchi Member Posts: 6
    The line that was leaking is my return fuel line and my vehicle falls between the serial # indicated. Those lines are about $300 each hopefully the dealer will replace. I looked back on my records and the fuel rail has already be replaced. I have been also having issues with the car hesitating under a load, maybe this fuel pressure issue may be a contributing factor. Hopefully.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    George,

    Thanks for the compliment. What you describe is a job I have not done. If I understand the problem correctly, you may be able to wind several turns on the wire prior to threading the switch into place, so that the wire unwinds as the switch is seated.

    Good luck.

    Les
  • boylostboylost Member Posts: 3
    I have a repair manual for my 1996 Olds Aurora/Riviera. The manual I have is book Book 2 of 2 Includes; Driveabiliy and Emissions, Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis and Elecctrical. I will offer it up here before I list it on Ebay. The manual is in very good condition.

    If interested please let me know I will hold it for 2 weeks. I would put a value on this manual of at least $60.00 - $80.00 plus the cost of shipping.
  • mastecutormastecutor Member Posts: 18
    I had the same problem. Other person description is quite detailed and goes into
    a different direction. check the easy solution first. Take a can of contact cleaner,

    pull back the rubber housing around the headlight switch stick and you will see electrical contacts inside. squirt a few shots of contact cleaner in this area and
    toggle your light switch on and off a few times to be sure the contact cleaner got in the areas of concern. This cleaned up my issue in no time.

    I have heard other pay dearly for a new switch housing and sending upwards to 500$. When you could have just bought a 2 dollar can of contact cleaner and a few Q-tips.

    peace
  • shadetmshadetm Member Posts: 4
    Had the same problem on my 98 olds-found answer on Emonds-replace both
    crankcase sensors, about $210, by good mechanic-never recurred after that.
    sincerely-shadetm
  • shadetmshadetm Member Posts: 4
  • shadetmshadetm Member Posts: 4
    Re: Headlite switch fix on 98 olds aurora-make sure you get the contact cleaner
    in all 3 openings & spray generously, turn floor mat over to prevent staining carpet.
    I used penetrating oil first-then finished with carb cleaner-problem solved!!
    Also I just recently started using 89 octane instead of 93 and my mileage improved
    to 23mpg! Sincerely Shadetm
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Not sure from top of head, but I believe 4.0 has crankshaft plus two camshaft sensors.
  • dustyrusteedustyrustee Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1995 Aurora.....4.0 ltr. v8

    when I shift from park into reverse there is a large jarring thunk......ditto shifting from park to drive, but not as pronounced.

    no tranny problems when driving.

    I have not fully investigated as it just began today.....

    I would guess that I likely have a broken engine/tranny mount....

    can anyone shed some light on this???? or been thru this problem??

    and advise on mount replacing proceedure??

    Thanks a lot...Ian
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    You didn't say if this clunk occurs when from a cold start or when warm also. Or at what RPM. Or if you can feel/hear the same condition between coasting and accelerating.

    This response probably won't help you, but when I purchased my 1998 in 7/98 used (Olds dealer manager's car), the first thing I noticed (foot on brake) was the amount of "play" between nuetral and drive, and nuetral and reverse. No clunk as you describe, but a short but noticeable delay in gear engagement engagement accompanied by a definite feel of the engagement, a slight bump in feel. RPM was normal. I thought this annoying play was unusual, particularly for a car that stickered for $40,000.

    I pointed out "play" out to the manager, and he had a mechanic come out and check......mechanic then said it was "normal" play for this vehicle. So I purchased the Aurora with the caveat that even though the car was under full factory warranty, I would be one really dissatisfied customer if the "issue" turned out to be "something."

    I have owned several automatics and manual transmission cars with rear wheel drive, and this play or even a clunk was usually traced back to the differential, the drive shaft universal joints, or the rear independant axels' universal joints. And while I have had CV joints relaced on fwd cars, there wasn't this type of noticeable clunk you describe. Not attributed to a broken engine mount either.

    I'm at 95,000 miles and the "play" has neither gone away nor worsened. I never did like the car reminding me of this "play" in the drive train, especially when driving with the cruise control on, particularly on hills where the car coasts downhill and then re-engages when more throttle is called for.

    You would be doing a lot of us a favor if you let us know what your mechanic finds.

    Jack
  • dustyrusteedustyrustee Member Posts: 5
    Jack, the clunk I have occurs at idle speed, car parked and when shifted into either forward or reverse a large jarring movement is transferred that jars the entire car violently....that is why I suspect a broken mount.

    I will have a friend shift the car at standstill with hood open so I can observe the engine movement to confirm my suspiscion.

    The delayed engagement that you described also is typical of my car, if that is any consolation and I describe it as a mild annoyance.

    As for advising further of mechanic's findings...I am the mechanic....and I will be happy to relate what I find once I dig into it....

    cheers, Ian ;)
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    As for advising further of mechanic's findings...I am the mechanic....and I will be happy to relate what I find once I dig into it....
    __________________________________________________________________

    Ian,

    Make sure you get a written quote on parts and labor, and a written warranty.....from yourself. If anything goes south on the fix, you will then be in a position to take yorself to court for damages. :D

    Good luck,
    Jack
  • minger3minger3 Member Posts: 1
    I repaired my 97 Aurora with just a $5 can of electra clean. I disconnected the battery and pulled the rubber boot out on the signal switch and sprayed the cleaner from top,bottom and sides with the nozzle supplied on the can. I let it sit 1/2 hour and re connected the battery, It has been fine for over 6 months. I did not have to take anything apart except pull the boot back on the switch by the column cover. Be sure to spray from all angles if you do it this way. My lights were flashing on and off for over 10 months before this quick fix.
  • bgadamsbgadams Member Posts: 9
    The AC blower fan on my 98
    aurora blows intermittenly. Dealer checks it and says it is working, but once I leave the shop it may or may not blow.
    Can anyone help me with the solution to this problem?
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    I had the same problem with mine. It would blow half the time, or intermittently at different levels. For mine it was the blower control module from what I recall. The shop that I was going to @ the time had no trouble with diagnose. I a m surrprised that the dealership can not find the issue.
  • bgadamsbgadams Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the info. I'll take it up with them. They spent 3 hours checking all the relays and switches, then told me to come back when it stopped working.
  • izzy88izzy88 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 aurora, just a few days ago i started to have prombles with the security system. when the car is on or off the lights flash and it makes a wired sound inside the car like a power surge or somthing...anyone got a clue what i should do.
  • brinwoodbrinwood Member Posts: 32
    see message 3921, should help you.
  • dathomdathom Member Posts: 2
    I just got a 2001 Aurora which has been sitting in the garage for about a year. All was good until the rear windows on both sides fell down to completely down position first time they were used. You can hear the motors turning trying to do their job but nothing happening. Manually you can lift by hand, but they will not stay up.
    Anyone ever run into this? Cost to fix?

    DT
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    I have been hit and miss on some of the threads, sorry for the delayed response.

    Coolant Leak: Join the club. Regarding the coolant leak, you may want to read the recent posts about radiator leaks (crack) and water pump leaks IF the motor oil isn't contaminated by coolant and there are no other obvious symptoms. In addition, back a year or two ago one guy found a leak/crack in the underside of the overflow tank, small but steady.

    Rim leak. You didn't say what condition your rims are in.....dented/damaged where the sidewall meets the rim? My rims are unmarked. My last rim leak issue was an installation problem ( and now I have another on a different wheel).

    On the first rim leak, NTB politely presented me with a $37 bill, stated there were no puntures, and said that the tires were not mounted correctly: rims were not properly cleaned prior to installation. I frowned and told the guy I was not amused...."First, you guys performed the incorrect installation, and second, I have the optional road hazzard coverage." Guy was not pleased at that announcement in front of all the other waiting customers. Didn't even check his customer records on the tire and hazzard coverage purchase from 15 months earlier.

    Told him if I had half a brain as a 19 year customer I'd make them take the other 3 tires off the rims and do the job right. Silly me. I didn't. Now I have another slow rim leak on a different wheel and have to take the car back in. Fortunately I have not gotten stuck with a flat out on the road, but unless I get into NTB at 7 am, this is going to be a 2-3 hour mistake, time I don't care to donate to people who do this stuff for a living. If they can't do a tire installation correctly, what does that say for all of the other services they offer? What is my time worth?

    Things at NTB seem to have taken a turn for the worse since acquired by Sears. They wacked most if not all of their vehicle and customer tire history, so a new customer is just like an old customer to them. Loyalty buys the customer nothing, and this is particularly disappointing when I can go to tirerack.com, fully research what I am about to buy, have new tires shipped to my local mechanic, and have the job done for less with no bringbacks. Second, the former pride in workmanship and friendliness seems to have faded from the same employees.

    Hope Sears reads this and realizes that the competitive edge in this market is passing them by quickly. I don't need them, but they sure do need me.

    Don't swap rims, the problem could be far more simple.
  • frydaddy4668frydaddy4668 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought (4/08) a 96 with 36000 miles, seriously....seems to have a few engine issues....tough starter...sometimes takes 3-4 cranks to get it to start, also now experiencing it stalling at low RPM low speed, like when turning from a stop light and almost always on left turns...weird huh? I have had the oil sending unit replaced already. Wondering if this might be a fuel issue...where exactly is the fuel filter on this car?

    Thanks for any advice :confuse:
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    frydaddy, my mechanic says under the hood, but I never had him point it out to me. Some cars have them on the outside of the gas tank where the fuel line exits the tank.

    If you have a fuel pump or fuel pressue issue, GM was smart enough to put an access door on the floor of the trunk to get at the top of the tank where the combination fuel pump/gas gauge sender is mounted. So you don't have to drop the tank to get at it. Think it's forward of the spare inder the carpet.
    Jack
  • quinsquins Member Posts: 2
    I had same issues on a 97 ...drove me crazy for years,,,,heard it was crank sensors all kinds of stuff,,,my mechanic finally replaced the fuel rail (it was recalled) no more hard starts and no more unexplained stalls....only cost me a 100 with parts and labor
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Wasn't there a factory recall or a TSB on the fuel rail? Been so long I can't remember.
  • mikejohn_2mikejohn_2 Member Posts: 1
    Yes, I had the same problem. The turn signal\cruise control switch on the left side of the steering colume has gone bad. Take it to your Olds dealer and have it chnaged out. That will fix your problem.
  • bgadamsbgadams Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the past advice, now have found that if I put the manual control in the mid air flow position, the fan blows steadly at the reduced speed. Local AC tech says the fan itself should be replaced at a cost of $300. Anyone have a less expensive idea?
  • donnapacadonnapaca Member Posts: 26
    Jack
    I had a similar problem and on my 2005 it was the computer. The computer controls the pressure to the transmisson for shifting. When I shifted from park to reverse it was a strong clunk, with a lesser clunk from reverse to drive.
    I took to dealer and they got a read out that it was a bad transmission after replacing the computer with a factory rebuilt unit. I told him that I had no problems with the transmission during driving, only when from park to reverse or reverse to drive. The mechanic replaced the computer with 3 factory rebuilt units and got same bad codes. He put back in original computer and did not get same code. He spent quite a bit of time talking to GM factory tech's knowledgeable on the Aurora and they finally sent a brand new (not rebuilt computer). That fixed the problem.
    By using a GM dealer, I was not charged for the multiple swaps of the rebuilt units and was not charged extra for the new computer.
    Previously computer replacements with rebuilt units did not last very long and had periodic problem with the cruse control. I forgot how many rebuilt computers I went through over a 2 two year period, but it was quite a few. By finally using a new computer-I have not had any problems in over 2-3 years.

    Be really careful if you are advised you need a new transmission. I talked to quite a few people that had transmission rebuilt only to find it was actually the computer. They also found that in the fine print the transmission shops exclude computer problems from their warrantee coverage.
    Don
  • dano853dano853 Member Posts: 17
    :confuse: I searched the boards and found no reference to my problem. This morning I went out to my 95 and the key would not go into the ignition. I have battery power and its the right key. There seems to be some sort of blockage or ignition assembly failure (broken inside). I used a strong light and can see a constriction in the key slot, but its still dark, and, not ever having looked in it before I cant tell if it looks "normal" or not. The key only goes in about half an inch and stops hard. Its not tight or stiff. If I push hard enough the chimes come on, but I think thats only because the cylinder presses towards the steering column. Knowing my car... if I wait til this afternoon, it will pretend that nothing has happened and work fine. I'm not going to give it that luxury. I'm ready to pry the cylinder ring off and yank the ignition cylinder.
    I dont remember if I locked it last night and there is always the chance of sabotage/vandalism.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    You have big problem. Maybe someone put a piece of garbage in the keyhole or it is pocket lint or the cylinder mechanism is worn out. I had that happen once many years ago. One of the tumblers or the hole it sits in worn to the point the tumbler popped clean into the keyhole. I managed to clear that short tumbler but then there was no line up to be made so key could be turned. I ended up busting the mechanism.
    In order to remove the key cylinder, you have to put key in and turn to on position and simultaneously push a hidden release pin. So, if you get key in, do not remove until problem is fixed and suggest immediately removing the cylinder assembly.
    The second part of problem is replacing the cylinder which matches key and key pellet must match anti-theft system which gets costly. I saw something at ACE about cutting anti-theft keys so maybe they have the blanks in various resistances. If so, just buy new cylinder with key. Go to ACE and have them locate the blank with the proper resistance and cut it to the new key that came with cylinder. But then it won't match door or trunk and you will have to carry one of each. Or go to dealer and order the original.
    Again, if you get key in and turned, do not remove until you have removed the cylinder and inspect it for the trouble. Simulate starting the car by turning and removing key many times until you are absolutely no doubt in mind problem is gone and will not re-occur.
  • michaelstmchlmichaelstmchl Member Posts: 3
    161,000 mls iv'e replace the oil pressure sending unit by the oil filter and my car still has low oil pressure after warm up when iddling pressure drops below 5 PLEASE help...... :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You'll need to either screw in a mechanical oil pressure gauge to see what the "true" oil pressure is, or perhaps on your car this can be read electronically by a scan tool, not sure.

    At any rate, if the oil pressure is ACTUALLY low at hot idle, then you'll have to at least drop the oil pan and investigate either a clogged oil screen, a loose oil pump pickup tube, a worn out oil pump (the gear clearances can be measured) or just a worn out engine (excessive bearing clearance at the crankshaft).

    Certainly you have high enough miles to exhibit any of these causes.
  • michaelstmchlmichaelstmchl Member Posts: 3
    Thanks youve confirmed my thoughts and fear i'll give these a shot.......
  • michaelstmchlmichaelstmchl Member Posts: 3
    where can I screw in the pressure guage, im new to this car with no tech manual??? :blush:
  • dano853dano853 Member Posts: 17
    Well I dont have any good news. Of course the only way to get the cylinder out (short of using dynamite) is with the key in and partially turned. I have never had so much trouble trying to disassemble/remove a lock cylinder. This thing is bulletproof. In the process of (unsuccessfully) bullying it out I grounded and fried the ignition wire... so now I have to access the starter... again.. which we all know is the burried under the intake manifold. Who's brilliant idea was that? I guess I should be happy I didnt set the engine on fire.
    This car has been so good to me until the last 4 months. Its slowly dragging itself to the junk heap. I had to replace the valve cover gaskets, so now it has spouted new leaks and requires all the seals replaced. It has a phantom miss that defies diagnosis. The sun roof motor has started to chatter and the drivers power lock only works on occasion. :sick:
    FYI: The door/trunk key is not the same key for the ignition on the 95 so thats a non issue. Door/trunk key contains no resistor. The resister colar assembly is easily uncoupled from the lock cylinder.. so fortunately I dont have to replace that. Maybe this weekend when I'm more relaxed I'll give it another shot.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It would go into the hole used by the oil pressure sending unit. You'd have to find that.

    Unfotunately, my database does not locate that part, sorry. I looked and looked.

    Maybe someone else in the forum can help us on that location. :confuse:
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    OK, now it's my turn. Has anyone had to replace one of the exterior plastic door handles? Driver's door naturally. What a pain.

    Mine appears wonderfully intact, but it won't open the door. It seems/feels like it is not catching on any internals to open the door. If I am lucky, it's just a retainer clip of some sort that popped off or broke.

    My fear is that the door handle broke internally and will hjave to be replaced. Are these still available through a GM (Cadillac) dealer? Can they be purchased to match the car color, or do they come in some neutral color that has to be painted?

    Thanks for any and all contributions to my cause.

    Jack
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I replaced the exterior driver's door handle on my '97 in 2005. The tab that attaches to a metal rod broke. Available only in a flat gray finish. Same part fits many GM models, even Corvette. I do almost all my own repair work, but ended up giving in and taking my Aurora to a GM dealer to reattach the rod; I do not recall the details.

    Les
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    That no pellet key, maybe referred to as a valet key, has the same cut as ignition key. The resistor is in the key.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I would like to know if what I got was the correct issue for the replacement, stainless steel pipe. And that sucks because it is in the way of manifold dismounting bolts. That means I now have to remove that fuel rail and associated problems if I need to pull manifold.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    To best of my recollect, it is front of oil filter, and if you have oil cooler in radiator there is another part on engine. Don't quote me, but there is a threaded rod sticking from engine, left front, and I think mine has screwdriver slot in end. If I remember what I read, that is used to adjust how much oil goes to cooler. An internal leak in that area might give similar problem.
    You do realize this is a low pressure system and has only about 7 PSI at idle? Proper checking likely includes reading at higher RPM.
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Since the driver's door handle is the most heavily used and needs a durable finish that matches the exterior (black), do you have any paint recommendations I could do myself that would do a credible job? Or did the dealer do that for you?

    Thanks,

    Jack
  • dano853dano853 Member Posts: 17
    I can't see that it makes any difference, but the keys do not have the same cut and are not interchangeable. The ignition key does not work in the door/trunk and the other key didnt turn the ignition.
  • jd2249jd2249 Member Posts: 1
    i have followed both top and bottom hoses and taken on the housing where the bottom hose goes and nothing! no thermostat there are to holes on the enging where that housing connects to it one is to small to fit the thermostat and the other has a spindle like thing in it that is belt driven now iam i supposed to put the thermostat in the engine or in the housing that that the radiator hose is hooked to. what are someother possibil;ities car overheats and has water spewing from the resevoir when it get hots my thoughts where the thermostat but it looks like there is not one installed and the car only started to over heat when the temp got warmer iam in central cali fresno area and it get to about 100 degrees everyday here in the summer any ideas would be great thank -james
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