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TIA
Ryan
Ryan
I replaced the bulb with a new one of the exact same part number, but the ABS light hasn't shut off...I'm sure it related because the ABS light has never come on before, and it would have to be a huge coincidence for there to be an ABS failure at exactly the same time I took the bulb out, but I have no idea how to make the light go off and the ABS function normally.
Any ideas?
Brian
If you had the capability I would run some DTCs, but you would need to have access to a shop of the thousands of dollars that the tool would cost.
Not much I can tell you except check your rear wheels ABS wiring around the ECM or around the rear of the truck. There may be some form of monitering system that, when removing the light, caused some rare damage.
You can try turning your car to on, then to off, then back to on. If the light begins to flash, then there is a chance that there is something wrong with the system.
I drove all day yesterday with the ABS light on (it would be off when I started the truck, then come on at exactly 15mph and stay on until I turned the truck off). Last night I decided to check the lights again and discovered that *both* rear brake lights were out, including the one I had just replaced. This is probably why the ABS light was on...
The new bulb wasn't seated properly and came loose, and it appears that the brake light on the other side just happened to burn out at exactly the same time. I replaced both lights and they are working again, but I haven't driven the truck yet to confirm that the ABS light is now off (I hope so). I'll drive it today to confirm...
Brian
Actually, I have a '98 Frontier 4WD and it has done the same thing a couple of times but then it stopped.
The bad news is that it is a real pain to change because you have to remove the transmission do get to the throw-out bearing. If you get to that change the clutch plate too.
Good Luck
B
Another strange thing is that with the belts off I inspected the rotation of all the pulleys. There does not seem to be any play in any of the axes and bearings (air cond pump/alternator/power steering pump and pulleys and water pump). Also when I rotate the axles by hand the operation seems very quiet and smooth ???!
The truck has 72K miles.
:confuse:
Thanks
Now the Extra "durability" of the material Isn't 100% what makes them squeel, it is the temperature in combination with the extra density of the pads. When it was 95+ degrees outside, I did not notice a squeek. This therefore makes me believe that the squeeling is from a combonation of type of pad.shoes and weather.
Hope this helps,
Alex
I really like this forum b/c it is very helpful. Most of time going to dealership serv., they are all about the $$$
Now for a small lesson on brakes to help you try and diagnos your own issue. when you apply the brakes lightly as if to slow down, not stop, you are only applying your rear brakes. your drums, rear brakes, (I assume) apply first, no matter what the situation. Drum brakes and disk brakes require some maint., but drums more so, the springs and adjusters, esp if they are duo-servo, require tensioning and adjusting every so often. This could also be a cause if your braking issue is at a certain pressure.
As an aside note here, Nissan brakes are hard to service outside of a tech station with nessan capabilities. to remove the front disks, a special tool from Nissan is required. However, if possible, you can use an on car brake lathe to machine fron rotors... this is always a good option, but I cannot always assume a shop will have access to this tool. also on my off car brake lathe, I did not have a set-up large enough for the mongo sized rear drums that Nissan grants this automobile... It was extremely aggravating when I found out so I have yet to fix the rear brake glazing from the previous owner.
Now I have an unrelated question for you, have you applied any mods to your truck? I have been considering some new performance parts, or a lift kit and I have not been able to decide what I should go with... My year is 2001 with the 3.3L S/C, I believe with my current set-up I am pushin 311 TQ and 298 HPat the crank, but that is only with some S/C mods and some minor tweaking around the manifold and cyl. ports. Right now I am seriously debating between a pulley drop to a 2.3" from the stock 3.3" with either a Cold Air Intake or a dual rear exit exhaust custom made by yours truely. The lift would be later, as funds are a little skim at this point in time. Anyone have any opinions for me That would be great.
Alex
I'll keep you posted on the progress. If the next attempt doesn't work then I'll drive it till it shakes apart. :sick: :confuse:
I have recently purchased a '93 hardbody, 2WD,5spd.-man. reg.cab, Fuel injected, AC and power steering.
Within days, I discovered why I got such a "good deal".
Intermittent starting. :surprise: (a click from the starter relay.. about 5 times or so,then it starts...) I have searched on line forums for information on this, evidently, it is not uncommon. All sources indicate one or more of the following, bad-battery, bad-started relay, bad-starter, bad-connection to solenoid, bad-Clutch Safety Switch, bad-ignition-key swtich.
I have, replaced:
Battery, (which tested ok but electrolyte level very low)
Starter relay switch,
Tested the Clutch Saftey Switch (CSS) via bypass, it is fine.
-----
Sunday, out of frustration, I banged on the starter with a 2x2, (a common technique, to jostle a starter to work) AND IT WORKED. It has worked 4 times now.. but certainly just a matter of time, likely an inconvenient time, to sieze again.
(But now, I am confident, the starter is the problem!)
So I set about to replace the starter. I have found them to be about $90.00 all around town.
The solenoid is on the engine block side of the starter. (not the easier to reach and see, "fender" side) Is that normal? I can't even SEE the solenoid, let alone get to the wires to check them for good clean connection.
Also, there are so many obstacles in the way, (fuel lines, brake lines, cluch-slave-cylinder and line, motor mount, FRAME, etc. etc.) ...I can see no obvious path to remove it even IF I can get it unbolted from the bell housing.
One forum indicated moving (pushing) the fuel filter off to one side, and bring it thru the top, past all the other tubes, lines and throttle-body stuff there.
Is THAT Normal?
Or do I own some horrible Frankenstien?
Local shop wants nearly $400.00 to yank old one out, put new one in.
I think I would rather sell it as a P.T.R.H.S.L. "Parts Truck that Runs if you Hit the Starter with Lumber" than put that much money in a truck with 208,000 miles...
Anyone know of a reasonably quick and easy way to pull and install a starter (and solenoid) on a truck like this?
I have replaced many starters, alternators, fuel pumps, oil pumps, brakes, etc. in the past, but I have never seen anything quite this tight and seemingly, purposfully difficult. :confuse:
Thanks for any help, .....or humorous comments.
Stitz.
ebitt24
I would like somebody to explain to me just what the problem with the brakes was in the first place and what Nissan has done to remedy the problem.
It is my understanding that in the '04's and '05's that what was done as a repair on the Titan's brakes didn't last very long and the problems reoccured. I was told by a Nissan salesman recently that, "Nissan fixed that problem and they no longer have that as a concern." However, I noticed in the recent issue of Consumer Reports that the brakes were still a major problem in the '06's. What gives? CR said that over half of the Titan owners of '04s responding to their survey said they had brake problems. Almost half of the '05 owners reported brake problems. And the brake problems continued into '06. Looking at the over all reliability for the '06's, it appears that most of the previous trouble spots on the truck have been fixed but the brakes still are a problem giving the Titan Consumer Reports worst reliability rating. I will say that the engine and transmission are holding up really well. Somebody give me a concise account of the Titan's reliability problems, specifically the brakes.
Thanks.
The issue with the brakes are; brakes in general reduced the kinectic enery of a a vehicle. Note that kinetic energy increases with the square of the velocity (E = ½m·v2 relationship). This means that if the speed of a vehicle doubles, it has four times as much energy. The brakes must therefore dissipate four times as much energy to stop it and consequently the braking distance is four times as long.
Due to the small design, poor engineering and sub-quality parts in the 2004 Nissan Titans the brakes warp and cause juddering. Brake judder is usually perceived by the driver as minor to severe vibrations transferred through the chassis during braking.
The judder phenomenon can be classified into two distinct subgroups; they are Hot (Thermal) or Cold Judder. Hot judder is usually produced as a result of longer more moderate braking from high speed where the vehicle does not come to a complete stop. It commonly occurs when a motorist decelerates from speeds of around 120-km/h to about 60-km/h, which results in severe vibrations being transmitted to the driver. These vibrations are the result of uneven thermal distributions believed to be the result of phenomena called Hot Spots. Hot Spots are classified as concentrated thermal regions that alternate between both sides of a disc that distort it in such a way that produces a sinusoidal waviness around its edges. Once the brake pads (friction material / brake lining) comes in contact with the sinusoidal surface during braking severe vibrations are induced as a result and can produce hazardous conditions for the person driving the vehicle. Cold judder on the other hand is the result of uneven disc wear patterns or DTV. These variations in the disc surface are usually the result of extensive vehicle road usage. DTV is usually attributed to the following causes; waviness of rotor surface, misalignment of axis (Runout), elastic deflection, thermal distortion, wear and friction material transfers .
Ok, this is kind of a technical answer but I have a lot of personal experience in this matter. Bottomline, what I would also take away from this is Nissan's reponse to handeling the brake defect, they fixed the defect the cheapest way possible, so it never really corrected the problem. In my case at the 4th attempt at 30 months/24,000 miles they never fixed it. I got statements like "all brakes judder on trucks/SUVs" or "just trade it in and we'll give 1000 dollars off MSRP" and one representative outright called me "a lair." So I took the truck to Midas to get the repair work done, at an out-of-pocket expense of $800.00.
So I took out of this whole ordeal is Nissan values its bottom-line (profit) more the the life of its consumers. So the problem with the Nissan Titan extends more than reliability, but also into the lawfulness and ethic values and hopefully no owner has to go through the nightmare that I had to go through with Nissan.
Good luck if you go Nissan just realize there is more to a truck than apprearance and features. As I like to say "If Nissan isn't even willing to back its product why should I?"
I also had judder problems but they fixed them and I have't had a problem with them since.
The problem was from both Nissan and the brake assembly supplier and it is the supplier who is absorbing the majority of costs so if anyone is having a problem it is more Dealer orientated then Nissan's.
I have to add that my dealer's service dept. has been very responsive and has never given any push back on questions and issues I have raised they have even replaced a burnt out bulb they didn't have to plus they replaced my leather captain seat after 15K because I pointed out ware. I never had the same kind of responsiveness from my F150 dealership that I had purchased 11 trucks from. If Nissan stopped honoring a warranty that would be an reason for a court action and or lemon law filling - I have a feeling from the detail nature of "razorthunder" he knows that and if he hasn't brought action there is a reason he is not articulating other wise he should seek damages.
My brother's F250's brakes went bad at 25k and Ford would do nothing, another friend who has a Titan has had none of the problems that I had. I love the driveline and non-cookie cutter looks and I will be getting the 08 later this year.
I figured with Nissan building it's first full sized pickup in an all new factory with alot of new workers there was bound to be some problems in the first few years. But I figured it would be a good test to see how Nissan would respond to the problems. Well, there has been the problems and Nissan's response has been mixed. It is hard whether to blame Nissan or the dealers or both. Nissan certainly isn't the only company to try to sweep problems under the rug. Like you, I have heard quite a few stories on the Super Duty brakes being bad and Ford not offering a fix. And Toyota's 3.0 V6 sludge problem which they didn't publicly acknowledge but settled under the table. And GM's V8 truck piston slaps. I personally don't get upset when a manufacturer issues a recall and fixes the problem right, but when they disregard the customer in favor of their own well being, then that is time to be concerned.
I, personally, have not ruled out buying a new Titan but I'm going to wait another year and try to get a little better understanding of what is going on before I offer up any of my hard earned money. I'm a retired guy who keeps a truck for along time so this next purchase of mine may be my last and I don't want it to be a nightmare. I'm interested in how a truck is going to hold together between the 100,000 and 200,000 mile span and the Nissan Titans have not been around long enough to know that. It will be interesting to see what Nissan has learned from this first endeavor with a big truck and what their redesign will be all about. I am looking forward to seeing and trying out the longer wheelbased Titans in 2008.