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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • flamenco1flamenco1 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks fo the reply sskl.

    I solved the TC light issue; the ABS Module was bad.

    The rough idle I can't get. There are posts as you mention but I can't find anyhting as specific as my problem. Anything close doesn't carry a solution.
  • flamenco1flamenco1 Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a DVD of the shop manuals of ebay...$39.
    It's fabulous.....
    eBay item #130307408623 Cadillac Catera Service Repair Manual 1998 1999 2001 01
    Check it out for your self.
  • flamenco1flamenco1 Member Posts: 4
    We lost our keys and this was the outcome;

    The dealer (in Canada) wants $200 for the key (comes with a remote) and $130 to program it. A friend of mine who is a locksmith has the unit to program the key, however, it wouldn't work on this car because you need a dealer pin code to access the program. Dealer doesn't know his pin code because it's been embedded in his programmer and just starts up without asking for the code.

    What we did was bought 4 aftermarket keys from Ilco for $17ea. (no caddy emblem), took the serial number and cut the key to the data from the serial number. 3 keys were cut and one was left uncut. Towed the car to the dealer and programmed 1 key ($130).

    We then drove the car home, placed the programmed key in a key reader/programmer (not the unit I mentiond above) which copied the info on the dealer programmed key and copied the other 3 keys.

    Then I bought a fancy Bulldog remote starter system for the car and used the one uncut key as the resident key for the remote starter. The remote starter uses this key (the metal part is cut off and just the bow is used with the chip in it) to allow the car to start by remote.

    You still need a programmed key to drive the car because when you insert your key after remotley starting the car, the key in the ignition takes over and the resident key (bow only key) is disabled.

    Yes it's a pain, but, $660 for 2 keys andf 2 remotes is insane.

    I paid $70 for 4 keys cut, $130 to program 1 key (dealer), $119 for Bulldog fancy remote starter system and another $29 for spare remote (unit only came with 1 fancy LCD remote); about $325 total.

    I have 1 key in my household safe, my wife and I have one key each, and the fourth is embedded in the starter system.
  • cateragirl22cateragirl22 Member Posts: 6
    Hi i have a 2000 catera also i can smell the burning when my vents are on and sometimes see the smoke my battery gauge goes up and down the car floods when it rains and i need a new suspension still owe on the car also wow !! but when she ran godd she was the best im hanging in there and trying to get her fixed a little at a time
  • cateragirl22cateragirl22 Member Posts: 6
    the engine idle coughing etc is the mass air flow sensor had the same problem paid around 350.00
  • cateragirl22cateragirl22 Member Posts: 6
    thats right my car is getting better and better
  • cateragirl22cateragirl22 Member Posts: 6
    thats right my car is getting better and better
  • tholtztholtz Member Posts: 1
    Could use some help with the newest problem with my Catera. Just started running poorly yesterday it does not stall but it has very little power, and acceleration seams to be a real strain on it. Once up to 55 it smooths a little, but when parked smells hot like something burning not a normal odor. I can hold my hand over the tail pipe and feel the engine miss. Question do the converters go out often on Cateras or is there somthing else I should look for? What codes are common if I can get it scanned? O2 sensor's maby? I also have to replace the heater core now that I see it leaking from the firewall how big of a job is that, not much from the dealer on this car they hate it. Ted
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    The converters go out after 90K or so and a flow test (drilling a hole prior to and after the converter) should confirm this. The before and after sensors are also commonly replaced. Your looking at 2 grand at the dealer. Absolutely try to use a muffler shop.

    Codes would include misfires and many others.

    I would rule out the heater control valve prior to replacing the heater core.

    How many miles do you have on the Catera?
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Cabin air filter could be the flooding problem or maybe you have a bad heater control valve. I paid $150 plus tax for a mass air flow, its a snap to install.
  • jared0029jared0029 Member Posts: 1
    I have been searching all over and can't seem to come up with a direct answer. Please help me.

    I have a 2000 Cadillac Catera. The radio does not work, it only comes on when the car is off. At the same time that went out, the heated seats did as well. Does anyone know what the problem is here?

    In addition, when I turn on the air conditioner, the oil pressure drops below the red when idling, and only shows pressure when accelerating. Also, when the ac is turned on, the temp gauge gradually climbs up into the red.

    I would appreciate any help. Thank you.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    radio does not work

    there is a little gray box on the drivers side, forget what they call it, but you need a new one.


    > Started since 2 days ago. My radio unit shuts off on its own,
    doesn't
    > matter if its radio, CD or tape. It shuts sporadically sometimes
    after
    > 5 min sometimes after 30 min. The power goes off for like 5 minutes
    > with even clock off, like there is no power to the unit at all.
    Then
    > power to the unit is restored and I can turn the radio on.
    >
    > Radio unit is the type that has CD, radio and the tape.

    K-134 multi-malfunction relay

    GM part number 90494163

    K134 location:

    Remove the trim panel from below the steering wheel.
    Remove the black vinyl covered insert that is underneath that.
    With a flashlight, lay on your back head next to the pedals and look
    up
    and to the right, over by the fender.
    Gray box just above smaller red box.
    Twist the gray box slightly clockwise and pull up.
    It should pop off it's mount.
    Now remove the wiring harness plug.

    the oil pressure drops below the red when idling, and only shows pressure when accelerating. Also, when the ac is turned on, the temp gauge gradually climbs up into the red.

    Is the coolant the right mix of half water and half anti-freeze?
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    My 2000 is the same way. The oil pressure goes way down when it gets hot. My AC don't work so it won't pull it down but the low oil pressure is common on these cars. I don't know what you can do . I was thinking about useing a 5/20 oil.
    My car radio comes on when it wants to and goes off when it wants to. When I first got it the radio only came on when the car was off and I changed a bad fuse and it worked. I would be careful about the heated seats because , from what i hear, they catch on fire. My car smells hot to but the gauge doesn't show it. You would be well severed to read all the old post on this site.
    Are all your engine fans working and maybe you could take out your thermostat like we did years ago so a car wouldn't overheat but then you need to put it back in for winter.
  • bsbs4bsbs4 Member Posts: 1
    just bought this car for my son and noticed it has some problems three days after we paid for it. the battery and oil pressure gauges dont seem to work, the temperature gauge goes all over and for some reason a TCS light kicks on and decelerates the car for no reason. any suggestions other than shooting it? i am wishing i had found this site a few weeks ago.
  • konamadekonamade Member Posts: 8
    I would get a shop manual for him and get aquainted but they are actually not bad cars especially if u take good care of them dont waste ur time with a dealership because that is not the only waste. I have had mine a year crank sensor went out thats it. 450 at dealership or 60 to 120 ur self. Otherwise I love it. Oh yea I've droven 16,000 miles dont believe people who bought used car and expected new car performance.
  • jodshepardjodshepard Member Posts: 1
    :mad :blush: : I have a 2000 Catera with two issues 1. there is a overheated odor coming from the engine but its not overheating.
    2 On the dashboard the TBS ABS Check Engine lights as well as the speedometer acting sporatic all at once, when speedometer works lights go out.
  • jonnylove39jonnylove39 Member Posts: 1
    I have had this vehicle for some time now we park it will not start finally it started but it as been missing so bad TC/ABS/CHECK ENGINE as come on pls tell me what do I need to do I really love that car and willing to fix it :sick>>>>>>>>
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    The first thing you should do is replace the CKS (crankshaft position sensor). You don't say how many miles are on the car but I assume it is at least 60K. CKS is about a $50-$60 part on line and anyone with minimal mechanical ability can install it (no after installation adjustments or settings required). Cadillac dealer part & labor cost will be $400 to $500. Once that is done if car still isn't starting and running well, you should come back on site here and we'll go to Plan B. Good luck.
  • acurryacurry Member Posts: 27
    yes check the crankshaft position senor and for the tc light and check engine its going to be the abs control mod and that will take care of everything for you trust me i have done all of this already....
  • merckxmerckx Member Posts: 565
    My wife left the ignition on overnight in our 2001 Catera.Now the car won't crank. A friend suggested the 5 yr old battery was overstressed being on overnight.

    Wallmart says they have a new battery for $65..Advance Auto Parts says the Catera needs a special battery for $150.

    Has anyone tried the Wallmart replacement?
  • orlynorlyn Member Posts: 4
    Like everything else, the battery in 2001 Catera are differnt than "normal" vehicles. I couldn't find one at local parts stores, however, they would order me one for a special "high" price. I checked every place I could find that sold batteries. Finally ran across a tire shop that odered (had to wait 2 days for delivery) one for like $75. It's the battery top shape and size that causes the problem. With a little ingenuity you could probally get around having to use the OEM type battery.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    I don't believe there is anything "special" about a Catera battery. I have a collection of classic cars and have found the Optima battery to be the best battery for longevity in a vehicle (especially vehicles that aren't driven every day). They cost a little more than your over the counter batteries like Wal Mart, NAPA and Pep Boys, etc etc but to me they are worth the difference. They come with a 36 month free replacement guarantee and are not time pro-rated like most other batteries. Costco sells them at a good price if you are near a Costco store. I agree with your friend. If the battery is five years old, it is time to replace it. I put an Optima battery in my Mom's Catera and it fit and works great going on 4 1/2 years now. Try one. Good luck and "no" I don't have in any stock in Optima!! LOL
  • nikia_mmnikia_mm Member Posts: 4
    I have a '97 Cadillac Catera that just last week upon starting the car and driving from the driveway to the street produced an enormous amout of thick white smoke from the tailpipe. This is the first time this has ever happened. I checked the oil stick and it does not appear to have any water/oil mixture, the oil level is fine and the antifreeze level is fine. Any suggestions??? :sick:
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    My 2001 Catera has 96K and needs a timing belt. It has the bose, chrome wheels, and spioler. It lacks the trunk CD changer, rear shade, and heated seats. I'm looking into trading it in for the $3500 offered by the gov't. However, I would hate to see this car crushed and am offering it to anyone who has $3500. I've replaced the converters (this year), CPS, mass air flow, battery, and brake pads in it 95K.

    PS
    once I had to replace the coolant reservior........... plastic split
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hey guy's hope all of you are fine because IM NOT My wife had a problem with her car it over rev at Idel then all of sudden it stop . put new ckps did not run new fuel pump no go no fuel to evap nothing nothing just crank will not run :confuse: :confuse: :mad: :mad: :mad:
  • nikia_mmnikia_mm Member Posts: 4
    You might want to try the mass air flow sensor. I recently had a similar problem with my car at first I was told it was the alternator but after changing that and no luck, I took the car and had a diagnostic test performed which showed there was a problem with the mass air flow sensor. My car would start and run for a very short amount of time and then just cut off prior to changing the mass air flow sensor. Now that has been replaced she runs with no problem, except for this new problem of thick white smoke coming from the tail pipe. I hope this is helpful, oh yeah if you have the diagnostic test and it shows the mass air flow sensor I recommend changing it yourself, I took mine to a well known repair company and they quoted my the price of $1130 stating that the part would be $960 alone, I ended up performing the repair myself for a total of $67 (50 for diagnostic and 17 for part from junk yard)
  • ledc101ledc101 Member Posts: 10
    so is that what you do whn the U2108 code is one because on my 2000 cadillac catera has the ABS,TC CHECK ENGINE, and my speedometeor, and my coolant light is on and i dont know what to doo.... i got it checkd for the codes and it says U2108 so how do i solve it i need help plzzz thank???
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Realy did it high rev at idel first once it was turn off nothing it just crank would not run no fuel going through system at all :confuse: :confuse: :sick:
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Have you ever had anything like this . the cps was changed the fule pump was change still no fuel to EVAP or fuel rails looking at either both relays or ECM all other fues are fine just one 134 relay is bad but that's just for the radio . It all started with it high reving at idel. If you can look in book one and see what are the trouble shooting procedures . thanks :confuse: :confuse: ;)
  • nikia_mmnikia_mm Member Posts: 4
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My 97 Catera is producing an enormous amount of thick white smoke from the tail pipe, prior to this it had been smoking from under the hood for the first 5-10mins upon driving but once on the expressway it would cease, also I could smell oil burning. We checked the oil and the level is fine, coolant level is fine and there is no visible water/oil mixture on the oil stick. Any suggestions to what this might be
  • ledc101ledc101 Member Posts: 10
    so is that what you do whn the U2108 code is one because on my 2000 cadillac catera has the ABS,TC CHECK ENGINE, and my speedometeor, and my coolant light is on and i dont know what to doo.... i got it checkd for the codes and it says U2108 so how do i solve it i need help plzzz thank???
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Any "U" code means there is a communication problem. This is the ability of all the modules of the vehicle to communicate with each other. Any time you get a "U" code stored, it is necessary to connect a scan tool capable of looking at every module on the vehicle to determine where the problem is. If you don't have a capable scan tool, I would suggest a top notch repair facility or even your Cadillac dealership. Actually, once you diagnose the cause of the "U" code, there is a good chance it may clear up all your other problems. Good luck.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    I'm not really exactly sure what you're saying. When you say "cps", I assume you're referring to the Crankshaft Position Sensor which is actually called a "CKP", right? When and if you installed a new CKP, are you sure the wiring is snug and tight with no breaks in the wiring and generally it is better to reroute the harness and not put it back the same way as the factory installation. When I say reroute it, the main thing is to be sure that it doesn't come into contact with any of the exhaust manifold. If no signal is getting to the CKP, it doesn't know that the engine is cranking and will not kick in the fuel pump which would mean no fuel. Also, have you changed out the in-line fuel filter? Might try that next.
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    This code (U2108) is a communications error with the ABS module. This goes hand-in-hand with the TC and ABS lights and code P0500. The VSS is wired to the ABS first, then carries over to the ECU and speedometer. I found this out the hard way with a buddy's Catera. When the ABS module has communications errors, the speedometer loses signal from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).

    There is hope. We called www.bba-reman.com, and they were able to fix the ABS controller. This is the black plastic box on the ABS module mounted down on the car's frame rail on the driver's side. They have DIY instructions on their website to remove the controller without removing the valve assembly and motor. This means you don't need to remove any brake lines or crack any of the lines open. Mail off the controller, and they rebuild it, test it, and warranty the work for a year, and send it back. According to them, you can still drive the car without the module. They charged us $169, which included return postage. This fixed the ABS, TC and CEL lights.

    For the coolant light, check the coolant level in the reservoir. If it is fine, then the sensor may be bad. It is mounted to the bottom of the reservoir.
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Yes Yes and YES new fuel filter new relays Have not Performed the other test yet being the service manual is very vauge on details and pics :confuse: :mad: :mad: :sick: Before I replace a shut off vavle or pressure swich I will finish the testing Just thought you where more incline with the fuel system
  • ledc101ledc101 Member Posts: 10
    thanks aloot i apppreciate it aloot so thankk u veryy muchhh
  • dgawdgaw Member Posts: 6
    i need to know what codes po432 &po422 mean check eng light on and coolant light on but full what can problem be car runs fine to me so if anybody can help please and thank you
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    The 400 series codes means that your O2 sensor is sending a message of a bad converter or maybe the O2 sensor is bad. This could be a number of things and could be ruining your converter if not addressed.

    The most common cause is contamination of the catalyst because the engine is burning oil or leaking coolant internally (leaky head gasket or a crack in a combustion chamber or cylinder). Converters can also be damaged if they overheat due to ignition misfiring that allows unburned fuel to pass through into the exhaust (check for a fouled spark plug or bad plug wire). The same thing can happen if the engine has a bad exhaust valve that leaks compression into the exhaust (check compression).
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Code U2108 is a communications error between the ECM and ABS module.

    How old is the Catera? How many miles? Do you ever have the brake fluid changed?
  • acurryacurry Member Posts: 27
    im not sure what the codes mean. but as for the coolant light you will have to replace the whole jug it runs about 40.00 at the dealer the sensor on the bottom of it is bad thats why your light is staying on.
  • dgawdgaw Member Posts: 6
    IM in DALLAS TX what dealer can I get jug for 40.00 I just moved from missouri and dont know any good car shops around here or should I say cheep
  • dgawdgaw Member Posts: 6
    Who does the work on your catera and which o2 sensor should I change I here that its four sensors two in front and two in back so do I change all four thats sounds pretty high to fix just got car last month car has 126000 miles and I put about 5000 miles on it got car in may and drove it to dallas and so far so good
  • ironwomanironwoman Member Posts: 15
    I took my 2000 Catera in to replace the timing belt, since I had heard that if it breaks it can ruin the engine. Of course, they did not have the part, so it had to be ordered. 4 days later they were suppoesed to work on the car. 5 days later they started to work on the car but discovered that they do not have the correct tool. Now today, a week later, they tell me that I need also the tensioner kit, part number 9201887, for $844.85 and tensioner pulley, part number 9196294 for $169.69. ...also a brake sensor.

    I've read that the tensioner kit includes water pump, timing belt, and tensioner.
    The dealer repair person is telling me that it is so expensive becuase they have to get the part from the dealer. They looked for aftermarket parts, but could find none.
    I've looked on the internet and have seen the same part number for half that price.

    Questions: does anyone know: is that tensioner unit really all one part...and I have to replace the whole thing like they are telling me?
    What is included in that part number 9291887?
    Could damage have been done by them trying to replace the timing belt without the proper tool? (They now have the tool)
    I've already paid $100 for the timing belt.
    Thanks in advance for your wisdom.
  • misterww2003misterww2003 Member Posts: 2
    I am changing the oil cooler on a 2001 Cadallic Catera I have removed everything down to the two lines on top of the oil cooler between the motor the lines need to be loosen on the bottom end in order to remove the cooler. But the oil filter is in my way is there a way to remove the cylinder that house the oil filter so i can loosen the lines. Help!!!!!!!!
  • jairekjairek Member Posts: 11
    Ok i have a 97 catera and it just idles very strange at a stop then sometimes when i press the gas it seems like its hesitating any suggestion ?
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Auto Zone sells the kit and it should be under $300 total. It includes the belt, tensioner, and idlers. Labor is a different story and should be 4 to 4.5 hours.
    They can rent the tool at the link below. So what are they charging you, if its not too personal?

    http://www.ledfix. com/timingbeltto olrental. html
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Crank position sensor, mass air flow, and converters may be the problem. How many miles?
  • jairekjairek Member Posts: 11
    130.000 when i drive on the highway or goin above 5 mph it seems to drive just fine does the speed limit it just like idle surges at a stop
  • ironwomanironwoman Member Posts: 15
    I guess what they will actually charge me is yet to be seen. They already charged me $100 for the belt, which they ordered last week. (as well as charging me mega bucks more for other parts ordered last week.) I have an extended warantee through anotherr company. I asked them to check to see if any of this would be covered. They said it would not...but then DID call the company, and found that part of it will be covered. So, I just found out that they did order the parts, and that the extended warantee will cover the cost for the parts and labor. However, they also told me that cover the rest. I asked exactly what parts would be covered. They said the tensioner and pulley. Now it looks like the water pump needs replacing, too.

    What they originally told me to replace the timing belt was $100 for the belt and $333 for the labor.
    I'll update with actual figures after the work is completed.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Disconnect the mass air flow connection and see if that cures it. This is the cheapest route. The mass air flow is between the unit housing your air filter and the intake. Its a tube, about 3 inches in diameter, that has a wire pluged into it. Its right behind the radiator on the 2001.
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