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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Just got the message, don't know the problem but I tore mine down twice now and know the procedure well.
    He's right about the thermostat pipe which goes under the (driver's side)cams and has a torx bolt holding under the dipstick which is difficult to get to as is most everything on this engine..
    You do have to remove the wiper [non-permissible content removed]'y. for upper plenim removal.
    I would suggest trying to solve your problem any other way possible before disassembly of the above items unless you're a patient doublejointed mechanically inclined genius.
    I've done hundreds of oddball engine situations but this one takes the cake.
    If you have a leak, try using a stopleak product, if you have a bad thermostat and coolant flows ok, put another thermostat in a radiator hose.
    I spent the last three weeks taking a head off and putting it back together.
    The machine work is exceptional but the engineering makes it almost impossible to repair the engine in the car. Cadillac was experimenting with the Opel/Catera in Germany to develope the now CTS which is a great car after learning all the issues with the Catera which was overdesigned with intentions of being a superb automobile.
    Dave
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited March 2010
    It helps also to remove the power steering reservoir bracket and bolt.

    Book says 2.2 hours labor but that of course if after you've done it a few times.
  • platinumcadplatinumcad Member Posts: 3
    well i live in texas.. san antonio well called all over san antonio no cateras.. really need the lines .. let me know on some web sites.. thanks
  • jerry44magjerry44mag Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 escalde with less than 60k miles. My tach is bonkers..i.e. all over the place regardless of my speed. I've heard the cluster assembly needs to be replaced to solve this issue, but I've also heard there might be a campaign from Caddy out on this as well. Can anyone help me with this. Not a driveability issue, just a pain in the backside. Jerry
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited April 2010
    Hi Jerry,

    This is the Catera forum. You need to be in with the Escalades

    So you may wish to cut and paste your question and put it over there.

    Visiting Host
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Also make sure your tie rods are ok
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hello Mr. Shift Right you have any idea how to stop in from the high revs please help me :confuse: resolve these issue thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Maybe. Try to explain your problem in detail to us. Give us the year, symptoms, etc.
  • jenna1287jenna1287 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 98 catera. started it up this morning and the check engine light came on and it was idleing really rough.
    Also, last week a problem with the shifter started. It would not let me move out of park. I took the cover off the shifter and now every time i shift out of park i have to press this lever to release it.
    Does anyone have any idea what would cause either of these issues?
    thanks
  • speedkraftspeedkraft Member Posts: 4
    The brake light swtich has to release the lever to come out of park, if the brake light switch fails, it won't come out of park....check your brake lights...do they work?? If not, it's most likely the switch and therefore your shift issue.

    Did the engine run rough for awhile and then clear up? If so, then could be a blown head gasket causing a rough run for a bit until the coolant is burned up, the code would then indicate a clyinder miss...excessive fuel could also do the same, like a leaking injector, however that's not likely. Check the coolant level, is the problem consistant?

    Ben
  • trae4208trae4208 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Catera. I have had major problems with it since i got it 3 years ago. I love the car but it has been so much trouble. Yesterday (5/13/2010) I was driving home from work and my car started to overheat. When i pull up in my driveway i popped the hood and it was boiling over ok normal so far not unheard of. Then the most god awful brown jello liquid started coming out. I figure this is probably stop leak that the mechanic had used previously but isn't that stuff supposed to withstand extreme temperatures. Plus the amount of this stuff that poured out of the reservoir was massive. And to top the sundae there is now oil in the radiator which means a blown head gasket. I need to know if this is the mechanics fault for clogging my engine with the stopleak.
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Why did the mechanic put stop leak in this beautifully designed engine. It may have plugged a coolant port in the engine and caused the overheating. If you refill with water to test, check for miss in engine, bubbling in coolant reservoir or steam out exhaust when running to see if head gasket is blown.
    Chances are your ok with all that excess stopleak out.
  • caddyfan00caddyfan00 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Catera and have had it for a few years. Havent had bad luck with it (knock on wood) . Just recently started running really rough. I took it to the Caddy dlrshp and they ran diagnostics...found 5 codes for engine misfires. I was told I needed all new plugs and coils. After spending $575 on that...a day later I noticed the car was still running rough and actually stalled itself out if I didnt rev it up while warming it up. So I brought it back and was told I now need the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor. I've ordered the part and it's scheduled to be installed but I'm wondering: Will it run smoothly when this gets fixed?? I sure hope so! :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Really nice of the dealer to guess with your money. :mad:
  • caddyfan00caddyfan00 Member Posts: 2
    I've been calling around for after market o2 sensors and they can't find which one I'm looking for, and when I told them what the dealership told me, they still don't know which one it is. So I called the dealership back to get more information on which o2 sensor it is they said they will need to look at the car again! WTF! Any suggestions on how I can find out more about this sensor? All I know is it is called a Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor. I need to know how many wires, and where this is located to be able to order it! :mad: :confuse:
  • trae4208trae4208 Member Posts: 2
    I took it back to the same mechanics they said the fan wasn't working and that's why the engine wasn't getting cooled off. They also told me that i needed a whole new engine and it wasn't worth it to fix. I think prob. because it was there fault and they didn't even say anything about the stop leak and it was everywhere how could they not notice it or attribute this as the cause of the problem?
  • cissiecissie Member Posts: 7
    I noticed something funny a few days ago, when my light switch is off when ever I would hit the brakes the dash board would like up, then yesterday I noticed the 3 brakes are all out, what do you think, master switch or just the fuse??

    Please help!!
    Cissie :shades:
  • lucasshannonlucasshannon Member Posts: 2
    Bought a 2001 Cadillac Catera at auction the battery died as they were pulling it off auction block. I got them to jump start it and drove it around for fifteen minutes then today they drove it 20 minutes to get the check engine light off. Then I bought a new battery and it started up and ran for about 10 minutes then shut off, so I got them to put some gas in and it started again and I made it to the gas station and filled it with gas and it shut down again and then I got it started and drove for a couple of miles and it staled out again. I do not have the keyless entry so I cant shut on and off the alarm. Does any one know what my problem is it didn't start till they changed the battery I don't think.
  • member47member47 Member Posts: 6
    Could be a couple of things. When my car used to stall like yours, I plugged in a scanner and found out it was the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I replaced it, worked fine but then it kept stalling, and then found out it was the fuel gas pump. Once you actually try with both those parts it should be fine. Word of advice, try with the MAF first, but not at the dealership, they will charge you an arm & a leg when you can easily get one in eBay for around $30-$50, or just clean the hell out of your own. As far as the fuel gas pump. That I got fixed for around $80 (I got the part used @ a local junk yard)

    As far as shutting down the alarm, you have to insert the key in the driver side door and turn it and the alarm should turn off.

    My car used to stall all the time unless I pressed on the gas because of the bad MAF. The dealer wanted to charge $700 for parts + $400 for labor. Try cleaning this first and see if it helps.
  • ledc101ledc101 Member Posts: 10
    im looking for a new engine for my cadillace catera 2000 and i found a couple but i was wondering if anyone know any trustable websits that r reliable.
  • surfottersurfotter Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Cadillac Catera and I have replaced the battery, battery cables, alternator, and checked the fuses. What's happening is the alternator is not recharging the battery. I have had the alternator and battery tested and both are good but the alternator is only putting out about 3 volts. Any idea on what the issue might be? I'm going crazy trying to figure this one out!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be your voltage regulator.
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    I live in Phoenix AZ, this is the 3rd summer I have had this 98 Catera. I have never had a coolant problem (fan not kicking on getting hotter than usual) until now. Always before it would kick on after reaching almost 3/4 on gauge, sitting at light or in traffic and sometimes after shutting engine off. Lately sense it has been 100+ here she runs a little over 3/4 after 15 minutes (less on freeway) But when idling a bit hotter than that and fan rarely kicks on and never after shutting down.Today after 3 or 4 shut downs and starts in about 45 minutes she got real hot (didn't overheat) and I had to turn off AC for a couple of minutes to reach operating temp. All fuses are good and check engine light is not on and according to Auto Zone there are no codes.
    Any ideas Thanks in advance
  • jairekjairek Member Posts: 11
    check your relays voltage regulators are ussually built into the alternator. you could have a bad relay or fuse that wont let the fan kick on when it should.l
  • 98manda98manda Member Posts: 1
    The solution is NOT fuse #10 for my 98 Catera. Same as above except fuse is good. what now?
  • bo1bo1 Member Posts: 5
    if no electronics at all are not working, try the multi function relay. it is under the dashboard to the left of the steering column. it is a grey box measuring about 2" x 1". i bought one out of a catera a guy was parting out for $10.00, a dealer wants $115.00. it is the same for all years. bo.
  • steve1961steve1961 Member Posts: 6
    it will turn over but just keeps on and will not even try to start just turns over
  • krazykidkrazykid Member Posts: 2
    ive got a 98 catera and with mine, when i turn the key on, it will turn all electricals on, when i go to start it, it wont turn. it just sits silently. ive checked the battery cables and such but no go. really need to get this running as its my only car =/
  • acurryacurry Member Posts: 27
    Crankshaft sensor They go bad on this car replaced mine twice in 7 years
  • krazykidkrazykid Member Posts: 2
    so it could just be my crankshaft sensor?
  • hturnerhturner Member Posts: 3
    i have a 2001 catera and it has had major brake problems. we have replaced the brake pads a couple of times but now when the brake is applied the pedal basically goes to the floor before any pressure is applied to the brake rotors. The front left tire locks up and the back left only tries to grip but the other two brakes do nothing at all. does anyone have any information about this problem?
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    I have a short to ground on my 2000 catera and I can't find the problem. My fuses, #6, #8, #24, #25, #27, #29 are all short to ground and I have checkes so many wires for bare or touching metal that I am ready to use this thing for a firecracker on the fourth. Has anybody found a problem area like this on their car.
  • lucasshannonlucasshannon Member Posts: 2
    Hey my radio just shuts off every now and again. Wish I had a bettter answer for you, sounds like your wiring harness though.
  • verynicaverynica Member Posts: 2
    hello
    I am having problems starting, when the tempersure is hot my car would not start back after being park I took it to gm they said the starter I fix but the same problem please help ,
  • verynicaverynica Member Posts: 2
    hello
    I am having problems starting, when the tempersure is hot my car would not start back after being park I took it to gm they said the starter I fix but the same problem please help ,
  • cadiman2cadiman2 Member Posts: 2
    hi i am have the same problem did replacing the crank sensor idid it work if not have you fixed it if so how please email me wilqm2@aol.com its killing me ive had in 2 shops and the dont know cause it wont misbehave
  • cadiman2cadiman2 Member Posts: 2
    im having startin probs when warm nothing all dash lights on and the dinger but no click when u turn key light dim very little i have 12.66 volt on batt 13.87 volts runnin it starts every day just not when warm i just found a brown wire not connected and found a red wire not connected if diagram is right it the ignition possitive wire im affraid to hook up it is bare looks like was ripped out fyi its under colum/fuse panel red wire is sticking out of fire wall it has a stk and aftermarket alarm and aftermarket is installed but its not preatty(not my install) also the radio/dome/map/vanity mirrors only works when car is off please help me i love this car and dont want to part out is a 1998 catera 83000mi and it fully bagged up/down left/right and even 3 wheel lots and lots of money invested
  • hturnerhturner Member Posts: 3
    while driving the brakes will apply pressure slowly without my wanting and will completely stop the car to the point where the motor cant even power through it. so if i turn it off and wait a half hour the car will be fine, the brakes will have stopped squeezing and it seems like nothing happend at all and it has done this 6 times in the last five years. it has new brake pads new master cylinder new abs i dont know what else to do. does anyone know anything?!?!?
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    edited August 2010
    Sounds to me like your ABS. I had to have mine calibrated after I replaced them. I think its a computer thing. Did they do that when they put your new abs on.
  • micldarmicldar Member Posts: 7
    Hi,

    I had the same problem, checked all, no one mechanic had idea of the problem, very strange (the mechanics).

    Finally, with a good logic, I guided the "research" and discoved the guilty one: the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS). Study what's the function of this switch!!!

    The solution was very easy: disconect the NSS and make a direct connection to the starter ($25.00 to my electro-mechanic). ATENTION! disconnecting this switch will permit you start your Cadi not only in Parking and Neutral - this may be dangerous if you have kids or forget shift to P or N !!!!

    If you want to buy new NSS, this is a good decision too. It may cost starting at $45.00. Good Luck.

    MD
  • bob3441bob3441 Member Posts: 1
    Running hotter than normal. Oil light comes on and off and now transmission light is coming on and off. Has not been driven alot all summer. This is a 97 Catera. Any help would be great. Water and Oil levels are fine. No leaks showing up under car either.
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Are radiator fans coming on and are there any outside signs of running hot.
    If not, then possible electrical problem from setting. WD-40 removes moisture which might be causing circuits to malfunction. The computer connections ( 3 of them near front left near battery) have twist on caps which could be sending incomplete signals.
    Only a guess! If not really overheating, driving for awhile might eliminate the problem on its' own. Dave
  • jeff167jeff167 Member Posts: 2
    my son has a 1999 catera that runs perfect when he first starts it and runs fine for 15-20 miles.when he starts it back it starts fine but dies when he puts it in gear if he doesnt have the rpms at 1000.if it goes below 1000rpms it will die
  • jeff167jeff167 Member Posts: 2
    did your car run for a while then when you shut it off it would it start and then not run
  • hturnerhturner Member Posts: 3
    my mechanic said he didnt recalibrate them bc. he didnt think i had too. how much did it cost to get yours recalibrated?
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    I don't remember but I put a new ABS unit on my Pontiac and it didn't work so I took it to Midas and they calibrated it and it worked fine. It took them forever to do it because they had to figure out how to do it. Just call them and ask,
  • lou89lou89 Member Posts: 27
    Would lie to know how to replace the heater control valve. Cannot find a 98 repair manual, other than for transmission. Thanks
  • tanyula8tanyula8 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Cadillac Catera and it had been sitting for over a year. Changed the battery and the heater valve and oil change. Now the fan won't kick on to cool the engine and the key gets stuck in the ignition. The only way that I can get it to come out is to unhook the battery. Help!!!!!1
  • sadsexycaddysadsexycaddy Member Posts: 3
    I have had several repairs and tok it to the dealer it left me stuck it will light up like its going to start then cut right off. So i took it to 3 mechanics which were stumped. Finally i took it to cadillac and told them i needed a new key with the chip. Got it back and it worked great for 3 months. The other day i went to start and its doing the same thing again. Any suggestions it has 112.000 miles do u think the key went bad again or something else is the problem please help.
  • lou89lou89 Member Posts: 27
    Have a '98, had same start problem for years..not bat volt, not a start solinoid click. Call AAA, raise hood . About 15 to 25 m in, summer, try start, has been firing up; call AAA , and cancel serv call. Dealer says bring inwhen it has the problem-thus far problem goes away each time. Had it hauled in couple years ago in NC, dealer said he not found anything, not even a battery sale. Did that in Dallas once, dealer sold me a battery, wrecker fee, and a $500 + charge. Still living with uncertainty.
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