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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • johnny46johnny46 Member Posts: 2
    Guys, I need ur valuable suggestion . I am planning to buy a 2001 cadillac catera ....It has 40K mies on it....did a test drive was smooth and looked good...its a single owner car...But after reading so many negative reviews i am feared to buy this car. i gave my word to owner tat I would buy the car...How much do u guys think it is worth to pay for this car. Plz I need a suggestion soon on this guyzz...Thanks in advance.
  • acurryacurry Member Posts: 27
    i would check and see how much its worth, because trust me you be putting in alot of money into it. its a nice car but many problems and expensive problems also.
  • johnny46johnny46 Member Posts: 2
    Yup...I fixed to pay 6500 on this car....but I am afraid of the future expenses on the car...Are the maintenance costs too high on this car...
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Two good used car price guides are Kelley Blue Book (KBB) and NADA. KBB private party value for that car and mileage is excellent = $6,125 good = $5,650 and fair = $5,075. NADA clean trade-in value is $5,250 and clean retail is $6,850. If it has a moon roof the values would be slightly higher. That gives you a good idea of a range price wise. I don't know how well you know the previous owner but if they're not a close friend you can trust I would definitely spend the money to do a CarFax or any type history report. Also, I'm pretty sure you can take the VIN # to your local Cadillac or even any GM dealer and they can put it into their computer and tell you what has been done to the car maintenance and repair wise. Of course if the guy has a personal small shop mechanic none of the repairs would show up in either of the above scenarios. The only other thing I would say to you is that you have to remember that this forum is for people that have problems with their cars. It is NOT a forum where people tell of all the good fortune they've had with their autos. Some do but not many LOL. But believe it or not there are some Cateras out there that are real good cars with no problems. Hope this helps you alittle. Be nice if the guy would let you drive the car for maybe a week or so. Most people that buy a Catera :lemon: know it within the first few days of ownership. Good luck with whatever you decide.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    I have an 01 and $500 is what they offered in trade. Yes $500, thats not a typo. Its in great condition and has 70,000 miles. I like the seats, ride, and Bose. The new CTS is most likely to be my next car.
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hey fellow Catera owner . Did you to cadilac dealer for trade or some other dealer? :confuse:
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    It was a Cadillac dealer. I'll just wait till their inventory builds up. Then wait until the incentives, in the way of rebates/interest rates/trade in value, are more appealing to the consumer. If that time doesn't come, I'll take my business elsewhere. However, the way in which Cadillac has treated those of you unfortunate enough to buy a Catera is pathetic. I'm seeing poorly trained service techs, which have added to their already high labor rates. Most of the time I've been able to do my own troubleshooting and repairs. Twice I've been away from home and I told them what most likely was the problem. I was able to avoid the process of elimination repairs until the original problem is fixed. This forum here helps along with an engineering background. The car is considered very reliable in Europe and its ashame that GM has decided to go a different route.
  • emmanuelmemmanuelm Member Posts: 5
    After an oil change and a timining chain change my 1997 Cadi catera is now leaking oil, Does any body know what might be the cause?

    Mike
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    The only way to know for sure is to find out where the oil is coming from. Since you completed two repair and/or maintenance items, it could be from either of those. Oil change = they might have gotten the oil drain plug back on properly or tight enough or the oil filter may not be screwed on tight enough. Timing chain/belt replacement = they might have messed up the cover that conceals it and holds in the oil. Lastly, Catera valve covers are notorious for leaking so it could be a new problem seperate from the others. Like I said - you have to find out where the oil is coming from by observation.... Good luck.
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    IM very surprise at that to about cadillac they most of the time stand behide their product in this case it's a wonder. but all in all I think it's a great car knowing it was the platform for the C.T.S . I gusse you need a lot of paient with this car.
  • dtsluvrdtsluvr Member Posts: 5
    my car has 78,000 miles and for the last few months it pretty much runs when it wants to. It started where I filled up and got to my sons school that was 20 min away and got in it to leave it wouldn't start. it had enough power and tried but it was like it wasn't getting fuel, then i came back like 4 hrs later and it started no problem. but the problem just got worse, it would shut off when I was driving if the rpms got below 1, it started ideling low, and you wuld not be able to start the car until the car cooled down. Now it never overheated never runs hot, no check engin light on. now I can't even make it 200 yards before it shuts off and it will take hrs to get it started again. I had someone come over and do a computer diagnostic and no codes appear it shows that the car is fine. Any ideas? Please help!!!!! Also is anyone else germany made? Everywhere I took it so far to be checked out haven't seen one like this in a long time. are they rare?
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). About a $50 part. If you can't do it yourself the Cadillac garage will replace it for right at $500 give or take $100..
  • dtsluvrdtsluvr Member Posts: 5
    thank you for the fast response, I will try your suggestion. thank you again
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    Hey there... I am going to change the heater valve and was wondering if while under the hood if I should change the Crankshaft sensor at the same time. I have heard a lot of talk about the unit and guess to replace it now is to forestall problems later on, eh... Where is it and is it much of a job to change.... please let me know soon as. thanks Lee
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Hi Lee, its on the firewall and under your wipers. Its a pain to get to, but easy to change. Post 549 here will redirect you to the Cadillac forum which has 4 pictures, if I recall right. They were about the most useful of anything I had going for me. Thanks to a fellow forum member. Are you anywhere near Dallas?
    dallasdude
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    Hey dude... I will look for it tomorrow, while I still have the plastic cover pulled back....... boy oh boy, I just did a replacement of the heater valve at the cost of 60.00, parts and all..ang an hour of time including walking the dog........ not bad for a shade tree mechanic, eh. I can't for the
    life of me see how that could be a 400.00 + job. I guess I will hang out my sign as a Catera tech,. Ha Ha Ha...... the guys on the board have been a big help to me in this endever. thanks folks. L not bad for an "old fart" at 78 eh. we, my wife and I do love our catera, she will not give it up.........
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Congrats Lee, those two items are common. Then I have noticed the overflow tank/bottle is also something you might look at. The item least discussed is the timing belt which was a problem with the early Catera. As I understand it should be a large undertaking with replacing the tensioner as well as pulleys. After having worked on many different cars, this is a well made/engineered car. Unfortunately the eruo style cars aren't catching on here in the states.
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    Sorry dumb me... I still can't locate the cps... is it "under the hood behind the motor near the heater valve... IE can you get to it from the top side or under the car. all the pix I see seem to show a general location under the hood.. in the rear of the engine....... yet some say to go under the car etc etc. the pix you mentioned did not "pin point the unit, at least to these old eyes......could you please give me give me a "clue"/// sorry to be so dumb....... Lee
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Hey Lee and all others looking - LOL.. Following is a link with instructions and pics on replacing the CPS. You will have to register to look at the pics but it's "free" = my favorite word.. hehe!! Believe it or not that $50 price I quoted is from a Cadillac dealer so GMParts Direct should be even less. Here's the link:

    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/67854-98-cat- era-crankshaft-position-sensor-replacement.html

    Let us know how it goes....
  • kelle_97caterakelle_97catera Member Posts: 1
    I just recently bought a 1997 Catera from a local car dealer in my hometown and it has 42,000 miles and is in good condition the first thing me and my husband noticed is that the oil light, brake light and some kind of batterey lights stay on,when you turn the car on one of them will come on then as you r driving for awhile the other 2 come as and stay on, the dealer said they just do that, he also said when they changed the brakes the brake light came on and wont go off..so does anyone have any ideas or know why this is happening? and i do think it is a great car i have just read some really negative things about it and im a little worried that my car will end up the same way as some of the other owners of catera's i have read about. Please someone give me some advice..thanks
  • jsysouvanhjsysouvanh Member Posts: 4
    ok u guys never answerd me so here i go u see my caddi has a lil part i need the name asap no1 seems to help its in the back top behind the block hard to reach you have to take the wipers off to reach it so look its small and a pain in the behind and i need the help ok! so hurry it up! if i don't get this car running soon or moved im going to be in a pile of dung ok so :mad: HURRY :mad:
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    There is a sensor wire to the brakes. So you may have to pay about $100 (don't remember if that was for each) for the brake dash light to go off. The pads didn't have squeelers. I just let it brake dash light continue, since I'm not too concern with the rotor. I put life time pads on and they are eating away at the rotor, which I plan to replace the next time I replace the pads.

    The other lights I have no knowledge of. Good luck!
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Hey Lee, that looks like a BAMA number. Go TIDE. Just love Tuscalossa. Rated #3 for hot lookin babes...........lol
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    If you can keep an eye on your brake pads (check them when you rotate your tires or maybe every 5K miles) and really don't need the dash warning light, you can put a small jumper wire connecting the two terminals where the sensor switch plugs in on the inside of the wheel and this will make your dash light go out. The system works on a closed loop and when your pads wear out, the sensor wears down and breaks the loop causing the dash warning light to come on. Basically, you are eliminating the warning devices which are only available at a Caddy dealer and definitely aren't cheap..
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Regarding the brake light on dash, check out Post #648
  • mazeusamazeusa Member Posts: 5
    Hey Guys, I have a 1999 Catera which I just had a dealer brand new keyless remote programmed for, the old one was working but I got the new one thinking it will fix the problem.... The problem is it works with very limited range, now both old and new one work same way, I mean I have to be within 4 feet from the car to make either remote work, the dealer who programmed both for me said this is how they work, batteries are new and replaced anyway to make sure... Any idea why they have that limited range? is there an antenna somewhere in the care that might need fixing or something? please help.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Thanks, I'll try that.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    The remote for a Catera has a ridiculous operating range. It is very "normal" to have to be within 4 or 5 feet of the car for it to function properly. I have a Chevrolet pick-up truck that the remote works on 50 yards away but not our Catera. New batteries will not make it work at a greater range and there is not an atenna that needs to be worked on. It is just one of the things you have to live with if you have a Catera. Sorry, wish I could give you some better news.
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hey dude had the same problem so i called my friend hans in germany and he told to get this kit from brembo comes with vented rotors front and rear brake hoses pads mounting brakets for calipers front and rear it took me only a half of day and 2600 but was worth it best brakes to put on an M V 6 :D
  • yaboy20031yaboy20031 Member Posts: 7
    Hello my fellow 1998 Caterians lol. i'm having problem after problem after problem. I need help finding some possible solutions. First off, i'm having what I think are transmission problems. i cant make it to autozone to get the codes checked b/c it drives HORRIBLE. Last year I had my the transmission re-built. After about a month it went down and the solution was actually replacing the TCM (transmission control module). When the module went bad, the shifting lights wouldnt come on and it was the cause.NOW, I can disconnect the module but the lights are not affected BUT the car still drives horrible. Coming to a stop is dreadful b/c it takes probably a minute to finally pull off and gain speed. I noticed something very interesting today. Since i have an oil leak my car has been leaking oil badly for a very long time. About a month ago i put oil in my car b/c it was tapping. that cleared the problem BUT my car hasnt been leaking oil. I checked my fluid today and it still measures "Max". Usually thats a good thing b/c no one like an oil leak but thats unusual to me that my car is NOT leaking oil.

    #2. I dont know if its my battery or alternator but as the car is still/in park my battery sometimes loses power but as i'm driving its like its recharging b/c the meter goes back up. When I turn the car off, it has to sit about an hour or so to start up. I replaced the battery yesterday but i havent been in it enough to test it.

    #3 the place i took the car to claimed to have done a tune-up but my car still shakes like it did before the tune-up. When I come to a stop it shakes. When i drive it shakes.

    Can someone please help me?! any help would be tremendously appreciated.
  • easyselleasysell Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a 97 Caterra today. Test drove about 15 miles and seemed to run real well. Purchased it and on way home it didn't want to accelerate from a stop sign. Pulled over shut it off. Restarted and accelerated ok but sluggish compared to test drive. Then I noticed the volt gauge was only 1 or 2 slashes over red zone. Later battery died and had to be jumped. The prior owner left all his maint receipts in glove box. There were many. He did lots of maintenance and repairs. He had alternator and battery replaced about 10k ago. There is also a light on dash on left side that looks like a gear ring with a star in the center. I don't have an owners manual so I was wondering what it is. He also replaced timing belt and pulleys as well as water pump and had trans rebuilt. I assume the rebuilt alternator has failed again. Would this cause the very sluggish acceleration? Reading all these post has me very worried. Is this car as high maintenance as all these postings suggest?
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    You might try premium fuel, the best premium. Then there is the so called rebuilt alternators, which are just cleaned and brushes replaced. Try a new factory alternator. They run a little higher, but function to spec. I can obtain one here in Dallas for a bit over $200. Dealers want much more. Also be sure that the sun roof is not draining the battery. Many of the first Cateras had this issue, which was correct in later models. Then the light on the dash may just be the sports mode and pressing the buttom on the top of the transmission shifter (S for sports mode)should make it go away.
    Good luck
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Sounds like your car is knocking. Try the best premium gas you can. An octane booster may help out. Then take two asprins and see if you have other problems in the morning. It sounds like you have more than one problem.
    Good luck
  • yaboy20031yaboy20031 Member Posts: 7
    My advice would be to take it back. The problems only go away for a short time and then return for a longer visit.

    I have the same voltage problem. I'll drive for a while and the car wont start up. Then I'll notice te voltage reading low when I'm parked or at a red light. The gauge will go back up once I start driving....but back down again once i'm sitting still. One day my car wouldnt crank so we had someone to TRY to jump the battery off. the battery didnt take a charge. We treid for about 20 minutes and realized that ANOTHER problem is the neutral switch.

    The funny thing is this is probably the 4th time ive been wanting to trade this car in, it goes down. Then we (parents) have to scuffle for a way to put money into the car to get it running. Once its running, we never seem to have the money at the right time to trade the car in and get a new one. EVERYTIMe its the same thing. its like the car reads our minds and says "Oh no you wont get rid of me" lol. Never fails
  • yaboy20031yaboy20031 Member Posts: 7
    lol, I dont think tyhe asprins will help lol.

    About 3 months ago, I was veeeery low on gas so I went to a little off-brand gas station.....it was seriously the only one I could make it to. The car had been a little shaky so I figured it was b/c i was low on gas. After I got the gas, the car got worse and my dad told me i needed a tune-up....because the car was shaking and skipping. I also had to fix the coolant leak. i got the leak and the tune-up at the same time but the car got worse. While trying to drive it from the service shop, the car wouldnt stay on when I took my feet off the gas. I think that was b/c it was a vaccum tube left off. It was throwing out white smoke from the exhaust. Every problem has been since then. From the neutral switch to the battery to the transmission.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    You are aware that there is a voltage regulator. GM commonly puts them in the alternator. They allow the battery to recharge, and then turn off the current so that the battery won't over-charge. That could be what your looking at. The energizing of the voltage regulator. Or you may have a alternator which is only producing current at higher RPM as when your driving.
    Get "Pimp My Ride" to hook you up!!!
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    I think thats what they call problematic. Just how many miles does that 98 have?
  • dean125dean125 Member Posts: 1
    I'am a ASE cert mechanic and have a no start problem, I recently replaced the head gskts in both heads,timing belt and air intake temp sensor, it has been to 2 large GM/caddy dealers and they pulled the heads back off and reassembled (at owners expense and request) retimed the motor and they can not find the problem either.
    It cranks like it is out of time it also has no signal coming out of the pcm for the AIT sensor. Has anybody had any such problems? It rolled in my shop running fine with only a water leak on the right head.ANY help would be greatly appreciated
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hey don't panic 1. get an crank sensor or as it's called cps 2. The tune up is an good tune up all they did was change the plugs maybe wires. Test the coils also or get them tested.
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    :) Put a new CPS in it that will do it
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    The crank position sensor is a cheap way to start. That is prior to replacing the computer/module.

    Only some dealerships sent their technicians off to train on the Catera. Others passed and are ill prepared to work on Euro cars. A while back they couldn't even jump start mine because so and so was not in that day. The service adviser was sure it was something big. It was the battery and the overflow tank was leaking. Needless to say, its just bad news if you break down away from home.

    I trust that when the timing belt was replaced the tensioner and pulleys were as well replaced? In any case please tell what the timing belt replacement runs. Then the reworking of the heads is because of warp age? There is no way that the oil cooler is leaking? Many folks out there have had head work done only to find out that a banjo bolt had come loose on the transmission cooler.

    Dealers are not going to admit to errors by their service dept's. I've seen them forget to put on the oil cap, over tighten oil plugs/oil filter housings, and other silly errors. Service writers live on commission and rarely turn down work. Everyone is on commission and therefore in a hurry and poorly trained. The whole thing is pathetic. Then they are scratching their heads wondering where they went wrong and or blame unions for their indolence. In Europe the Opel Omega is one of the most reliable cars made and here its a nightmare?
  • yaboy20031yaboy20031 Member Posts: 7
    97,542. Oh its problematic alright lol
  • yaboy20031yaboy20031 Member Posts: 7
    Would hooking up to the machine just these problems. I might have to get it towd to the dealership.
  • mazeusamazeusa Member Posts: 5
    Thanks gnguru, I wish I have known this fact before the $145 for the new remote and the reprogramming :cry:

    Ohh well, it is a Catera afterall...
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    No problem mazeusa but I also wanted to let you know that if you ever need another remote, the best place to get them is on EBAY ($15 or less to $30 or so for most of them). The majority of them are factory remotes and they give you the programming instructions with the remote at no extra charge.
  • dtsluvrdtsluvr Member Posts: 5
    Thank you gnguru, the crankshaft sensor was the problem. Since I didn't have the money to put it on at the dealer that was requesting 500.00 I went to my local auto zone and picked the bran new part up for 75.00 with tax and my husband installed it. Since we don't have a manual for this car it took me a little time to try to figure out were the sensor connected at the top. The inter net let me know that it was located between the oil lines.
    I read somemore of the post on here and seen where alot of people routed it along the manualfold. That is what I told my husband and the job actually took 5 min, from start to finish.
    Thank you for your help and the others also.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    That's great. I'm glad "Plan A" solved the problem. For any others changing out the CPS, I'm sure I have a previous post on here with pics and detailed instructions on the CPS replacement. And dtsluvr, don't worry about not having an Owner's Manual. It wouldn't be of any help when replacing the CPS. As a matter of fact the tecnical Service Manuals aren't much help as they are very vague both in descriptions and pics. Alot of the wording in the service manuals is like those emails you get telling you that a long lost relative of yours was killed in a plane crash in Uganda and they want to send you an inheritance of $3.8 million and they show you a pic of a car wreck instead of a plane crash.... LOL Anyway, thanks for thanking me and I hope your Catera gives you miles of smiles ;) .
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hello Gnguru it took a while but I found the problem the passenger outer tie rod was worn out had to take load of the the wheels to realy get a good look also a bushing was bad on the sway bar going to repalce them both and bushings then another wheel alignment. My wife should be very happy about that now I just need to figure out these heated seat issue. chears :)
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    I agree with you on that point it's always 99.9 % of the time a cheap or minor fix to a major problem
  • easyselleasysell Member Posts: 4
    I previously wrote about a problem with my Catera suddenly becoming sluggish at a stop light. Then later the battery died. The battery and alternator were both replaced within the last year by previous owner. The volt meter was 1 slash above red, the oil pressure gauge read right above red. The radio would cut out when you tried to turn it up. When the battery was charged overnight the volt gauge would go up to about midway, oil pressure up to about 60 psi and the radio could be turned up. So I took it to NAPA. They did a load test on battery and then alternator and determined alternator was putting out low voltage. So I replaced alternator with a Bosch unit. The oil psi stays up around 60 psi and the radio doesn't cut out. The battery seems to be holding a charge. But the voltmeter still reads about midway.
    I keep a jumper box in the car just in case. Does anyone know if these voltmeters are highly innacurate or is their another piece to the puzzle? I figure if there is a relay in the circuit that is bad it's either on or off. A fuse would be blown. Are there any knowledgeable ideas out there? I live in Denver if anyone knows a dealer or repair facility that has a good Catera mechanic. I'm good at replacing parts but diagnosing is not my forte. I don't want a mechanic throwing parts at it.
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