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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

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  • momma_x_3momma_x_3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm new to online forums, but am interested in some advice about getting a Catera. I currently drive a Lincoln Towncar, but am looking to buy something with fewer miles. I've seen ads for several Cateras in my area that have low miles and are in my price range. Having never actually seen one (and not wanting to drive 30 miles to go visit someone who has one unless I'm really thinking about buying it), I'm trying to figure out how roomy the interior, specifically the rear seat, it. I have 3 kids that have to be in car seats. My Towncar fits all of the comfortably, but I know a lot of other cars don't. Anything you can share with me would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    The Catera is NOT the car for you. I have two friends with Cateras, and they are much smaller in the back seat than the Town Car or even a Crown Vicky. These are on the large size for compact cars, but small for mid-size. Plus, as a lot of messages on this site can attest to, they are pricey to repair. These are basically German-built cars re-badged for Cadillac. This means the parts are from Europe, and has a lot of extraneous equipment that is expensive to replace.
  • Nick_ZNick_Z Member Posts: 2
    If you haven't read this forum, I would strongly suggest it. These cars typically have a lot of problems. I own one and like it, it is very nice inside and out. The issues are around how it was made and not very many mechanics like to work on it. The price is cheap because of that
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    As much as I love my Cat I have to admit its not a family car. My Cat is kinda like a spoiled rich girl, when its not happy you have heck to pay. Don't get me wrong its fun to drive and very luxurious but its not an only family car. The front is very comfortable but the back gets a little crowded ( I have no kids but even my 2 Great Danes don't like riding in it} but it does have a big trunk, enough room for 2 kids or an Xwife
  • catman97catman97 Member Posts: 3
    My 97 Catera which I purchased new -- hadn't driven it nor even started it for a couple of months and when I started the engine all the transmission fluid spurted from underneath the car. Never took out of "park". Car and transmission only have 69K miles on it. New short block only has 15K on it.

    Took Catera to dealership at 48K; they stated it was time to change the transmission fluid. I did so. Dripped transmission fluid about a month after transmission oil changed. Read manual should not change the transmission oil. Dealer mechanic stripped drain plug and glued back in and stripped three bolts. Took to another garage where they took care of this problem.

    The latest was not drip but all transmission fluid spurted out onto garage floor. Any idea of what this could be? Also some water (not transmission fluid mixed in with fluid). Thanks.
  • fehufehu Member Posts: 7
    They obviously din't fix it the second time around either. The Catera's have a sealed transmission. not supposed to mess with them unless is absolutely necessary. Probably a TRANSMISSION LINE. Not that difficult but time consuming as with everything on a Catera. If you want other good answers then get step by step instructions from this guy he is really really good. it may cost you 15 bucks to find out but it's worth it. He helped me fix my catera when it wouldn't start. http://www.justanswer.com/profile.aspx?PF=279429&FID=11 Tell him I referred you Fehu.
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    On my 98 Cat the brake strip is only working on the driver side I assume the bulb on the passenger side is burnt out Im sure the cloth cover needs to be removed to replace them If so how hard is it
    Thx Hvy
  • Deltaboy5033Deltaboy5033 Member Posts: 5
    Ok I have replaced the relay panel and the trunk and radio work (KINDA) now but the face lights on the radio still burn all the time, Which eventually kill the battery! Im wondering if the radio is bad because when I play a CD and turn it off and get back in the radio comes on instead of the CD I was listening to! And If I change the Bass and Treble levels and turn it off they go back to the middle like I never moved them up. Its like the radio forgets what it was doing before it was turned off! Does this sound like anything anyone else has heard? I have had a few people tell me too that the BCM or the ECM may be going bad, and If so why is it just the radio that Im having probelms with!! Thanks for any info and help!! :confuse:
  • ironwomanironwoman Member Posts: 15
    I've not had the problems that you are now describing (thank the Lord!), All of my radio problems were solved by replacing the relay board. Sorry I have nothing to tell you that may help. Good luck to you.
  • Deltaboy5033Deltaboy5033 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the help! Hopefully Its just the radio and that will slove it!
  • rolorolo24rolorolo24 Member Posts: 3
    when you noticed this problem on your car, did the brake lights work at all ?? on my 98 catera, the abs, engine & TC lights were all on, and they hooked it up to the OB computer and the man said it needed a speed sensor, BUT my brake lights dont function when I apply the brakes. please let me know.. Thanks !!
  • rolorolo24rolorolo24 Member Posts: 3
    When I put on my left or right turn signals, the side turn signals on the back side blink too but on opposite sides. EXAMPLE: when iI put on my right turn signal, it will blink fine in the rear, BUT the little side one on the back blinks but on the left instead of the right. it should be where they both should be blinking on the right. can anybody tell me what this problem is... it is soooo weird... Thanxx.. :confuse:
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    rolorolo24: DO NOT BUY THE SPEED SENSOR! I just had a similar problem with a friends 2000 Catera. We got codes like U280??, P0500 and another code that was for a transmission bus controller error. His ABS, TC and CEL were all on. At first his speedo was fine, then it started acting up.

    Turns out the problem was with the ABS module. The ABS and TC are controlled by the ABS module, and the speed sensor is also wired to go to the ABS module before sending signal to the ECU and the speedometer. All these codes were due to an ABS module that went bad. After doing a bit of research, we found a www.bba-reman,com that would rebuild just the ABS controller for roughly $160. The trick was to remove the controller from the module to ship it to them. The great thing was the electronics can be removed without messing with the brake lines. The hard part is the location of the ABS module makes it very hard to reach 3 of the 6 screws that hold it on. And they use a Torx star bit to remove them.

    Once removed, call BBA-Reman and confirm some details with them before shipping it. They had ours back within a few days using overnight delivery. The car can be driven without the controller in place, since the brakes will still function fine. Once replaced, we reset the CEL with a scan tool, and it drove just fine. None of the lights have returned. BBA-Reman also gave us a one-year warranty.

    In our case, the module had to be repaired to turn of the CEL so we could get the car to pass emissions. 3 days after the repair, it passed with flying colors.
  • bm4ebm4e Member Posts: 8
    rolorolo24 i also have a 98 catera haveing the same prob except my brake lights work im changeing the speed sensor & 02 sensors today i will inform u if it fixes the prob
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    Yes the brake lights worked not real sure what to tell you about yours not working but Im sure to has nothing to do with the modulator
  • rolorolo24rolorolo24 Member Posts: 3
    I changed the brake light switch, and guess what, the brake lights are workin AGAIN.. :) im sooooo happy...lol.... so if anybodys brake lights do not work at all, then 99% of the time, its going to be the "BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH" the Switch costed me 20.00 bucks at Advance Auto Parts.
  • ihatecaddysihatecaddys Member Posts: 1
    really wierd. car runs fine. interior dome lights only come on when the key is off and the radio comes on when it wants to but only when the key is off. check engine light comes on check oil light comes on and oil temp light comes on. the P0705 code says trans range sensor circuit malfunction (prndl input) and the other one is U2108 and says lost comm with abs tcs control system ENHANCED. please help. the car is my grandmas and im trying to help her out. the local mechanics charge her 70 bucks just to hook it up to a diagnostic tool. any help would be much appreciated. its a 2001 catera sport i think. the rims say sport but theres nothing on the car that says sport and my email is shorton83@tmail.com. i really need help with this
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Try disconnecting neg. terminal (since it's easier, just don't let it touch any metal to keep from grounding) from battery for 5 minutes to reset temporary codes, reconnect and see if some problems go away, can't hurt anyway.
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    Disconnecting the battery will not clear the codes. I had the battery completely out of the car for a week, and the codes remained. Only my scanner cleared them. I was sending the ABS controller to be rebuilt after getting the U2108 code, P0705 code, and then a P0500 code. Turns out a bad ABS controller will trigger all those codes. These guys, www.bba-reman.com, rebuilt the ABS controller for $200, including shipping to and from. And, the controller can be removed from the ABS module without cracking the brake lines open. Just send in the electronics that is attached with 6 screws. 2 of them are a real PITA to get to, tho.
  • bm4ebm4e Member Posts: 8
    I have a 98 catera the abs, tc cel are all on. Now the cel is flashing & the car chugs, Does anyone have any ideas how to fix it?
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    Your headlights do come apart but you want to be very careful because the ajustment screws are in plastic and they will break very easy and then the headlight is shot. The stain is most likely on the outside since the light is closed on the front side and there are rubber covers on the back side where you can change your bulbs.
    I cleaned my headlights with rubbing compound but it takes a lot of elbow work.
    Don't use any sand paper or anything like that. Start off with a strong compound and then after you get the stain off you need a mild compound to bring the shine or clear look back in.
    If you must take apart the front of the light , you can pry the front cover off by gently prying up on the little clips and using screw drivers to pry apart cover. there is a black mastic that is really sticky that holds them together, You need to work at it to get it apart.
    You don't want to hit or shake you headlight you will break the adjusters.
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    I had some of the same problems and it was a fuse. I don't think that is all it is with you thinks but that fixed my radio and lights.
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    If you don't want to spend the time or money on the overflow tank light you can just unplug it and put a jumper wire between the two plugs in the wire and the light will go off and you can check your water every now and then or when you pop the hood for anything else.
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    i have a front bumper and the salvage yard in town has a hood that i saw a couple of days ago. This is in Kansas
  • slim1920slim1920 Member Posts: 4
    My name is chris.I work on cars for a living and its is your starter.The siloniod on your starter is bad.Its a part made on your starter that lets power go to the starter when you turn the key.That's why your car want do any thing when you turn the key.You need yo replace your starter.As far as your car not starting every 4 or 5 times you start it.That sounds like you have a bad connection on the wire that is attached to your starter.I had the same problem with a bad connection on my car.I took off the wire and cleaned the connection and that fixed the problem.With you changing the starter that should fix both problems.
    Write me and let me know what happened.
  • slim1920slim1920 Member Posts: 4
    Its sounds like the front seal or a line leaking.As far as the water in the transmission fluid.The radiator is busted.Your transmission lines run into your radiator.The transmission fluid runs through the side of the radiator to keep it cool,so you could have busted a line and the radiator from the pressure that the transmission built up over the time it sat,and when you started it the pressure busted either the radiator,a line or both.
    Write back and let me know what you found out.
  • slim1920slim1920 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 cadillac catera and on the upper right hand conner of the instrument panel there are the leveling lights and one of them looks like a circle with three bars going down each side its the second from the last light and it want go off,does anyone know what the light is or goes to so i can fix the problem.
    THANKS
  • slim1920slim1920 Member Posts: 4
    your rear windows not going down is more than likely your drivers door window switch the power goes threw it into your other window switches
  • jaquihdezjaquihdez Member Posts: 1
    :lemon: Thank you so much for posting this. I just got a 97 Catera at an auto auction by my house. It seems to have too many problems. Right now I am trying to figure out how to get the leveling light to turn off. I just had the two front struts replaced because I thought that might be the problem, but the light is still on. I dont know why. Another problem I am having is that I have to drive the car with the heat on super high in order to keep it from over heating. I filled it up with new coolant and that doesnt seem to make a difference. I think it may be the thermostat, but I cant find anyone who knows how to change it since its in the engine. I cant afford to take it to a Caddy dealer because they charge way too much money and I am a full time college student. Is there anyway to change the thermostat myself? The oil light is also on but I checked the oil level and its fine. I think it might be the tranny fluid but I have no idea how to change that either. Do you think I should just sell the car because it looks like there is too much going on with it.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    The warning light you are talking about is the Brake Pad Wear Indicator Light. You need to replace your front brake pads. You will also need to replace the warning light switches (they wear out to make the light come on) which are located right by the brake pads. You'll see a wire that goes to the switch that needs to be unplugged (one switch on each front wheel). I believe the switches are only available thru GM and will cost about 2 or 3 times more than what the best pads you can buy cost. If you don't want to replace the switches, you can put a jumper wire in the plug at the end of the wire and the warning light will go out. However, naturally you won't get a light warning the next time you need brake pads.
  • bluecatera01bluecatera01 Member Posts: 1
    hello lynn my name is cj i have a 2001 catera and i replaced the mass airflow sensor and its doing the same thing youres is i was wondering if you had any look figuring out what it was
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Got a 98 beauty except for a miss on #3, lifter tick on opp. side of engine. wondered if a slow closing intake valve might cause flooding in cyl. that is intaking next, thinking that the next to intake cyl. might suck fuel mix from previous cyl intake which would be starting its' compression stroke.
    Injectors, plugs, firing and comp. all OK. Buy the way these engines are crossfire designed which means cyl's. across from each other fire on every stroke at the same time.and is not associated with my prob..
  • rachwhitneyrachwhitney Member Posts: 1
    i park my 97 cadillac catera all winter i pulled it out to get it up and running i turned the heater on it came on then i let it run for about 45 min when i went back out the heater wasn't running any more cant get it to come back on i look at the fuses and the one in the car under the dash look good and the ones on the battery looks good does anyone have any ideas when to go next to find the problem
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    Well, if you mean that you fan isn't working then is the heat still coming out of the vent but not being blown. If the fan is the problem and you are sure there isn't any blown fuses then there must be an open circuit. meaning that there is a break in the wire.
    Since it was working and then quit it makes me think there is corrosion somewhere or a loose connection that has corrosion in it that shorts when it gets hot.
    It may be since you haven't started it for a while corrosion from water or moisture got to it.
    If you had it outside maybe a mouse got to it and had the wire almost eat into and when the wire got hot it burnt open.
    check to make sure the rest of the electric works, radio,lights ect. if they do then you will need to start chaseing wires. do you see any signs of mice or anything eating on wires.
    Sometimes wires just break into without any help but they are usually bundled under carpet.
    before you start all of that,quite a chore, you might want to play with the controls and start it again. maybe once the wire gets cold, if it is corrosion, then it will work again until it gets hot.
  • jbantjbant Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 catera that cranks over fine but will not start, had a dianogic check no code error, then had a tech 2 to program a new key program sucessful but car still would not start,next fuel hand was on empty,so put five gallons of gas in the vehicle and the car still would not start,now it is firing did the spark plug wire check,but i think the problem is the fuel pump, for two reasons one is when i turn the key on to position 2 i dont here any sound at all that is telling me that the fuel pump is working,# 2 when the switch is on their is no fuel in the bleeder line or what is call a pressurerized line,now my question, is the fuel pump located in the tank and if so can i just remove the back seat to replace it
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Pump is in the tank according to sender unit replacement instructions (tank removal required), filter is in-line, haven't found pictures of fuel pump or tank yet.
    Sounds like electrical prob.. Did 5 gal. of gas show on gage. If not, an electrical problem is a possibility. Suggest checking connections on top/front? of tank in sending unit area through trunk, should be an access hole some place in the trunk. I have the original latest "Complex" Factory Manuals and will study more. Keep in touch please. Dave
  • broharbrohar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 and when its very cold (under 20F), the trigger on the automatic shifter will not move, therefore i cannot get out of park. When pulling the trigger, i can hear a relay click somewhere in the dash. Eventually it will finnally trigger but can take anywhere from 1 minute - 5 minutes dependng on the tempeture or the force applied to the trigger. Has anyone had this problem before or have any ideas wht could be causing it?
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Manual shows that a cover over (around) the shifter can be pulled up to get access to a yellow lever on the left of the shifter to release park if needed.
    Otherwise brake pedal release must not be releasing.
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    Ha? What does the self leveling system have to do with the brakes?
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    az hvy I would suggest that you read these posts more carefully and gather all your facts before you come out with your derogatory remarks. If you had taken the time to go back and see what I was replying to, you would have seen that the above reference to a leveling light was a reply to post #954 which is titled as such. FYI when you click on "reply" to answer a post, the title of your post automatically becomes the same as the title of the post you're replying to. Hope this helps you understand the system better................ :)
  • orlynorlyn Member Posts: 4
    2001 Cat. LR LED turn signal appears to be only lighting at about half normal brightness. It, and LF signal are in a fast blink mode at twice normal speed it usually functions at. Put a new bulb in frontwith no change. Owners manual doesn't have any info on changing out rear signal. Anyone have any experience with this light? Where can one find replacement LED? .
  • bm4ebm4e Member Posts: 8
    my catera is running rough when u step on the gas it vibrates & chugs. I have been told it is my vapor canister, throttle positioning sensos. I know my abs control module needs to be replaced does anyone know where it is located the dealers dont want to give me that info for as we all know they want to make $ off from us when they dont even know what they are doing. Does anyone have any solutions? I dont want to get rid of this car. I foregot to mention if i disconnect battery it will run fine till i get on it then it starts running rough again.
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    I suggest you ask for a complete scan, (not a back yard scan) for under $100.
    Could save a lot of grief,.
    I thought I could solve a similar prob. myself and have spent a lot of time and wasted money because I didn't want to spend that money for a scan. Thought of buying and OBDII scan tool. The OBDII scan tool does not do the job that a $10,000 scanner at a good repair shop would have.
    I was a mfg. eng. (electrical,hyd. and pneumatic) for Boeing in Huntsville Ala. on the Saturn V program and have never have seen such complex circuitry as in the factory manuals for my 98 Catera. Took many Phd.s to design such a system and we make light of the auto industry's effort to build safer and more efficient vehicles.
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    that does sound like a burnt out bulb. You open the truck and pull the carpet that covers the spare tire and you can see them there. you might have to move the spare tire. you change them from the inside. Don't know where you get them but your parts store should have them.
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    Is the 'Check Engine' light (CEL) on? If not, a code reader may not help. The CEL will be on anytime there is a diagnostic trouble code (DTC), but if the CEL is not on, there may not be a problem that the computer recognizes.

    On that note, when was the last time you had the fuel filter changed? The computer doesn't monitor the fuel pressure, and weak pressure can cause this problem.
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    ok, i have my book here in front of me and i have never worked on abs on my catera but it doesn't say anything about an abs control module. what it says is that there is a Electronic Brake Traction Control Module. EBTCM. if that is what you want to replace. it looks to be part of the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve.BPMV.
    The traction control and abs work as a unit.
    remove the power steering fluid reservoir bolts and lay reservoir to one side.
    remove the uppper radiator hose from the engine only
    move the radiator hose to one side
    remove the cover from the relay center (large plactic box with wires and fuses in it)
    remove the ECM, Engine control module from the relay center.
    THE MORE I READ , THE MORE I THINK THAT THIS IS GOING TO BE HARD FOR YOU WITHOUT THE PICTURES OF THE PARTS THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT. DO YOU WANT ME TO GO ON.
    i was going to keep my catera so i bought these books for 120 bucks but they have come in handy.
    acording to the book the throttle positioning sensor is in the throttle body and you have to partially drain the coolant system, remove the air intake ducts and the coolant hoses.disconnect the vent hose from the bottom of the throttle body.remove the throttle position sensor electrical connector.remove the throttle body assembly mounting bolts. remove the sensor throttle body assembly.
    If this helps you can let me know and i will try some more but you should invest in some books if you are going to keep you catera. helm books.
  • anowynanowyn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Catera with about 250k miles, haven't had any real trouble with it until today. A AC adapter heater was left plugged in three days ago and killed the battery, I jump started it and it worked fine until yesterday when the same heater was left on and killed the battery again. I had it jumped again and it started fine a couple of times before today when I ran into the store then tried starting it. All electrical components would work(radio, lights, indicators) and it would try to turn but wouldn't start. I bought a new battery in case killing it two times might have done something but it still does the same. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    Pardon me, but I am a Catera lover also.... but I have to ask "what the heck is the AAC adapter heater....? where is it, and is it connected the Ignation switch like a accsory.
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    If it tried to start and had enought power to run the radio then it makes me think the battery isn't getting charged. Maybe the alternator is bad but i would check the battery cables and the post connector on the battery. Sometimes the battery cables will get corrosion under the plastic coating on the cables and you have a hard time finding it. Put a battery charger on it and see if it charges up and if it does then you know it is the cables or the alternator. The time you used the new battery it wasn't being charged. It lasted that long on the power it had when you bought it. charge the battery and start it and take it to a parts store that will check your starting, charging system for free and go from there.
  • noclueoncaddynoclueoncaddy Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 2000 Cadillac Catera, purchase it last year for $3900 and have had problems ever since. I have already spent a good 600 or more on it. The car looks immaculate inside and out, only has 64K miles but its been a nightmare. It currently has no AC, the back window is broken comes down and wont go back up and now the Check Engine Light stays on...I took it to Auto Zone this morning and they plugged it up...It has the following codes, PO155 Oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor1, PO305 Cylinder 5 Misfire, PO 135 Oxygen Sensor Bank one sensor 1, PO141 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 sensor 1, PO100 Map sensor Circuit A malfunction, PO1161 Manufacturing control fuel air mentoring and then P1141 I have no idea which one that is. I am currently divorce, the ex is out of state and I have no dang clue what to do with this thing and am too broke to go to the mechanic. Any idea what Im looking at, any idea what that may cost me? I want to sell the car and at least get the what I spent (doubt it) but I do not want to sell someone a bad car. Please guide me....desperately seeking answers. Thank you all and God Bless!
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