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Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance
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Comments
My local toyota dealer is quoting $429.95 to do the job, while an independent mechanic is advertising something like $280.00 in the newspaper.
My question is whether or not i'm required under warranty to have the work done by a Toyota mechanic. Am I stuck having to pay the inflated dealer price if I don't want to void the warranty? I really don't have that much money and it would be a great help to save over 100 bucks.
i have the 3 extra year extended warranty with Toyota also..doubt that makes any difference.
The dealer (Towne Toyota in NJ) that I bought mine from has a sign in her service department stating prices for common repairs. For the 4.7 V8 timing belt replacement is $525.00!!! I asked one of the service writers if people actually paid that. He said "Yup". I will be changing it myself when the time comes.
Toyota.com has a page which informs readers of 'belt or chain' for all Toyota vehicles for the last ten years or so.
also....don't most Toyota dealers use Castrol 5w30?
Thx
Note on my brakes- they were rock solid for the first 40k, about 6-7k of that pulling considerable unbraked trailers. Now at 47k, the brakes are due, the tires are toast, and Im looking for better shocks. Otherwise the truck's only been back to the dealer to replace a corroded trailer connector (from running w/ the lights on) and to get some touch up paint.
I also replaced the front sway bar bushings with an "anti-sway kit" from Wheelers.com. That helped some, but it still sways a lot.
I'm considering replacing the springs or maybe installing a rear anti-sway bar. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
Thanks!
Tom
i will use 87 grade, i guess i avoided a costly mistake :-)
I bought a 2004 Tundra Regular 2D long bed 2WD, and would like to buy the factory service manual to do basic and some advanced-level maintainance and repair. I called Toyota, and was told there are several manuals. Which one should I get?
Thanks!
UCSC
Sway is normally referred to when towing, and is affected by small turns, bumps, and the aerodynamics.
Roll is where the body tends to "roll out" toward the outside of a turn, particularly under hard turns/high speed. Some roll is unavoidable, unless you eliminate spring suspension and ride a vehicle like an old fashioned kid's Western Flyer red wagon. It's due to the acceleration of the mass toward the center of the turn radius by the force applied at the wheels, which is below the mass. The resulting moment will load the outboard springs more heavily than the inboard, resulting in roll, and at extremes, will lift the inboard wheels off the ground (also like that little red wagon...)
Sway is mostly a vibrational system phenomenon, which is affected by the tow vehicle mass, the towed vehicle mass, lengths of each, tow bar length, in addition to the roll stiffness of the vehicles, aerodynamics of the vehicles, and the damping between the two vehicles. Primary rotation of Sway is about a vertical axis, but the resulting turns induce roll, similar to an intentional turn. Anti-sway systems are generally an effort to dampen the system, to absorb the energy induced by a disturbance so that the natural frequencies of the system and disturbance(s) don't cause the cycle of sway to go out of control.
This is one reason why (true) trailer tires have stiffer sidewalls than passenger tires of the same load rating. The stiffer sidewalls raise the natural frequency and assist in damping the (secondary) roll induced by the sway.
If you're getting a lot of roll in a hard turn at high speed, you may just need to slow down in sharp turns.
The problem is that the drive gear on the shaft of the distributor has slipped down on the shaft and locked up on the floor of the compartment. It completely dis-engaged from the camshaft drive gear. The teeth of the distributor gear have been broken and will require the gear to be replaced or the distributor itself.
I'm an old coot who has worked on cars all my life but, I have never seen this before. Does anyone know if this is a usual or unusual thing?
Tia,
MagTx
Some questions:
1) When should i change the distributer and plug wires?
2) Can I switch to platinum plugs like Bosch's 4+?
3) Do I really need to repack/grease the wheel bearings every 30k miles?
4) Next to the brake master cylinder there's a small reservoir. Is that for the clutch fluid? When should this be changed?
5) What else do I need to do to keep this baby running to 400k miles so I can jump and say "Oh, what a feeling?" Thanks in advance for responses.
Is this typical clutch life?
Can I inspect for life left without dropping the trans?
And yes, I am quite ignorant!
Thank you.
Is this typical clutch life?
Can I inspect for life left without dropping the trans?
tomg49:
The way one drives, the topography, whether you tow or not, and many other factors determine the life of that clutch. Even the materials the clutch is made of affect the life. But I can tell you that my son owns my old '94 Toyota Hilux and with 160,000 miles the original factory clutch is doing just fine. We live in Ozarks in MO. and we have some hills and windy roads that used to be cow paths, so the clutch hasn't had an easy life. One thing the Toyota service manager told me was that whenever you find grinding, sticking, and a hard time jamming the gearshift in reverse, then maybe it will be time to take a serious look at the clutch.
B
Just took a test drive in a 2005 Tacoma. The sales guy told me the first scheduled maintenance is at 120,000 miles. Until then, it's just an oil change every 5000 mile.
Is this true?
Thanks for any info, jan
I just looked over the maintenance schedule for my 2005 Tacoma...
Kinda yes and kinda no!
We have to rotate tires every 6 months and inspect brakes every 6 months
If you get a Tacoma with the 1GR-FE engine, the spark plugs are replaced every 3 years. (Which is surprising to me, because that's my engine!)
The first major maintenance is replacing the timing belt at at 90,000 miles or 108 months.
Of course, these are for normal driving...if a person drove in extreme conditions, they have more maintenance.
Listen to all salesmen with skepticism, that's for sure!
Rick
Still looks pretty good though! Looks like most maintenance jobs should be fairly cheap...
jan
Please confirm that your Tacoma engine has a timing belt and not a timing chain. 4 or 6 cyl? Thanks.
My manual says to replace the timing belt at 90,000 but has an footnote that says that's only for Highlander, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra, and 4Runner.
It says replace spark plugs for Tacoma...let me look for timing belt/chain..
The maintenance guide doesn't say anything about the Tacoma and a timing belt. (But it never says timing chaing anywhere, for any vehicle.)
I went to Toyota.com and downloaded the maintenance guide which, unfortunately, is the same I have. But I could search it and, still, no mention of if the Tacoma has a chain/best OR when maintenance is due on it.
I'd say replace the timing belt/chain at 90,000 anyway. (You don't want to have it break inside the engine....a very bad thing!)
Rick "Boo"
What grade of fuel is recommended for your 4.0L?
I have an 05 Tacoma with the 4.0L and premium is recommended.
Thanks
thanks a lot for any help.
Hey, I was parked next to a Tundra and I thought it was a Tacoma until I really looked at it...very similar design! (Both are sharp!)
Boo
Is there a way to replace the light? Is there a place to find the part? Do I have to open the entire dash or just remove the knob? Any help would be great.
also, could rough idling be my injectors slightly clogged? im getting less than great gas mileage right now, and im wondering if that could be a problem too. what can i do for that? will running the fuel system treatment stuff they sell at wallmart do bad things to my car?
any help would be great. thank you much.
Anyone have any ideas on what I should try?
Thanks
I have sprayed small amounts of propane around the vacuum lines in engine to see if i could locate leak but havent had any luck. Anybody have any Ideas?
It does not entail disconnecting the battery (which will erase radio station presets and a number of other things).
I believe it is the same as on my Honda (but look in your Tacoma owner's manual), where, with the ignition off, you press and hold the odometer reset button, turn on the ignition (while still holding the button), then release it after the maint light goes off. This is probably covered online at Toyota.com as well under FAQS.
After years of maintaining family vehicles (since middle school), and 25 yrs of practice as a mechanical engineer (knowing part of the design criteria should be ease of maintenance), I'm with you. Of course, when you can save $1 on 200 000 vehicles, you can justify your job. Hopefully, the word will get out that expectations of owners regarding ease of service will make a difference in our purchase selections.
As for filters, I'm a fan of Purolator, but find AC/Delco and Wix reasonable substitutes. I used to buy FRAM, but have to admit that a few studies of sectioned filters turned me off to the "Walmart of oil filters". Fram does make some OEM filters (I found a Honda filter that was a FRAM) but they build something different for the low end mass market.
As for oil, I go with conventional motor oils. The oils refined and packaged by majors these days are just so much better than years ago, that they truly do handle the more severe requirements better. Synthetics have their advantages, but I think that consistent oil changes with a good quality oil, within the recommendations of the manufacturer are a better investment than synthetics, and FAR better than trying to stretch the intervals by using synthetics. As in previous discussions, no matter how good the oil is to begin with, the contaminants are going to build up with time. Additive packages that meet the current API standards for gasoline engines (per the vehicle mfr's specs) are going to handle the contaminants just as well in a conventional oil as in a synthetic. You may start with more consistent molecule chain sizes with a synthetic, but you won't end up any better, and the contaminants don't care what the base oil is.
A good filter and a good oil are a good investment if applied as prescribed.
You can do more damage w/ a synthetic by stretching the time interval, or not changing the filter.
It makes even less sense to spend several times the price for a full synthetic, and not prefill the filter.
Happy trails.
What I meant was, that you can do more harm by using the excuse of synthetic oil to increase the oil change interval, than if you used the less expensive conventional motor oil with the recommended oil change interval.
Sorry for any confusion.