Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

13468912

Comments

  • ny tundrany tundra Member Posts: 1
    Jesse,

          Thanks for your posting, I thought I was hearing things for the first year of owning my 2003 Tundra LTD 4WD V8 and the dealer kept giving me a lot of B.S. about it. Such as not being able to reproduce the sound or they couldn't hear it due to the wind noise coming from my roof racks and the finally the one that one caused me to yell and scream at the morons at the service dept. was they found my tires to be under inflated. They even claimed to have test driven the truck and had solved the problem. Needless to say, when I picked up the truck the next day, it still had the same issue. Even more concerning was the fact that my odometer had not even moved a Mile. I wish I had written the mileage down to the tenth but the dealer notes it on the work order only to the mile. They claimed that they only drove it up and down the block and conceivably went less than a mile. That was enough for me to go off the handle and a start yelling at them for lying to me and avoiding the issue. I couldn't believe they had the nerve to defend their diagnosis of low tire pressure after bringing the truck in for 3 times over a year with the same complaint. After the first time I realized I had to leave it there overnight and that became an inconvienance even though I have an extra car that I drive every day and use the truck mostly for long trips and Home Depot runs. Well eventually, I took one of their senior mechanics for a test drive with me. He happened to own two Tundras and took me seriously. Knowing a lot about auto mechanics I understood that intermittent problems like this can be difficult to diagnose and I was not expecting a miracle. The mechanic agreed it was from the front dive train but found no TSB on it. He did report it to regional Service dude (don't remember his official title) and they noted on my service record so I would be covered if something became of this after warranty. That was really all I was hoping for outside of a quick solution like a bearing replacement or extra lube. The mechanic whose name I should mention was "Kippy" according to his shirt, recalled the exact symptoms coming from an older version of the 4runner that used a brass (might have been bronze) bushing at the end of the front shafts. Well the dissimilar metals were affected by temperature differently but once it warmed up they were fine. The Tundras use a completely different drive train. The solution Toyota came up with was to create some special grease tool to lube the bushing. Anyhow, it was good to finally get somone to take me seriously. I was also told that it would be reported to Toyota engineering and I mentioned that I found several posts on the net of Tundra owners with the same problem. I told Kippy about the efforts you made to narrow down the source of the noise (which is really more of a vibration - during my test drive it was the first time I was passanger in my truck and I had a hard time noticing it but when you're driving you certainly can feel it). I was going to do the same until I read you post.

    It was disappointing to be treated like that by a Toyota dealer. I would expect it from a local gas station but the dealer I take my two new Toyotas for service. When I took my tundra in after a year for an inspection I brought my wife with me and ended up with a 2004 Camry XLE V6 for her. Overall love both my new Toyotas but stay on top of the dealer and let me know if they find a soloution for the Tundra issue.
  • oregonboyoregonboy Member Posts: 1,650
    Hey guys, stick in a paragraph every now & than, ok? Just hit the enter key twice.

     

    And you'll space down just like this. It makes those long posts so much easier to read. Thanks and good luck with your Toyotas.

     

    james
  • texastonytexastony Member Posts: 4
    Day before yesterday I got the exact and same symptoms on my 2000 Tundra. Check Engine light along with gas pedal which didn't work. Code revealed bad Throttle Body. Anyway, went to an honest shop which charged me $249.50 (69.99 for diagnostics and the remainder to have work done on throttle Body)

     Mechanic said it was only dirty then cleaned it. When I got back to my job site, two co-workers told me that its very simple to do and it could be done by anybody. They've cleaned their's and they'd show me how. Needless to say I felt ripped off. (wonder if it was an honest shop now)

    Which brings me to my point; are we the consumer being ripped-off when it comes to throttle body issues. Could this be another "green-machine" for Toyota? What do ya'll think?

     

    Texas Tony
  • texastonytexastony Member Posts: 4
    I received a letter (appears to be mass mailing)giving procedures for O2 Sensor complaint. They wanted receipts (with mileage by repair center)showing when and how much you paid to have them removed and replaced. I provided them with two receipts for two sensors. One was at about 47K, the other 53K.

      Less than three weeks later I received a check from them for the full price of both sensors plus labor. Exactly what I paid for both, plus tax.

      The secret: be able to produce legible & authentic receipts!
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    Just got home from the dealer. The repair kit for the Chirp or squeak in Tundra trucks is now four metal lock nuts. The Service Manager said the Service Bulletin and field fix was revised since 12/24/04. I will post a message once the repair is made and advice if it works.
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    The repair kit is now 4 metal lock nuts.
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    Here is an e-mail from 2/3/05 by my Toyota Service Manager, "TSB SU003-04 involves turning over an existing shock bushing retainer and installing two new shock nuts. The retainer was installed incorrectly at the factory. The procedure is very simple - we have performed it several times. 30 minutes is adequate to do the job. This is the only current TSB for the shock squeak on 2004 Tundras."
  • gmayesgmayes Member Posts: 1
    22RE engine stalls out completely for 2-5 seconds when accelerating or climbing. Engine runs great at any rpm when out of gear. Transmission must be engaged and loading the engine to see this problem.

    This was sporadic, but now I can count on it whenever I hit the gas.

    New fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, ig. coil, and timing chain.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated!
  • curtmanncurtmann Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 Tundra double cab and just noticed the same thing over the weekend. We also had a huge storm here in So Cal. Went out to the truck and noticed on the drivers side, The rear door sill and carpet is wet. Seals around the door look in good shape I did not see any thing wrong in anyway. Any suggestion on were the water may be coming from. Has anybody heard anything from Toyota?

    Curtmann in So Cal.
  • rollbabyrollbaby Member Posts: 1
    wanting to install buckets seats in my 93 toyota truck. 22r 5 speed. any pointers as to what seat would work best
  • sarniastingsarniasting Member Posts: 31
    I have just recently syarted following this forum after trading in my Sienna for a 2004 dual cab Ltd. I noticed the other day a some water staining on the carpet near the back of the back door on the driver's side. Thought it might be from snow falling in when the door was opened but after reading the above post has wondering if this is a problem to the dual cab Tundra and what others have been doing to aleiviate the problem.
  • 1257212572 Member Posts: 7
    Just took home my new Tacoma ( Ink blue,4x4, DC Off road) yesterday and have the popping/knocking noise from both my front ends( more on the pass side) with small bumps on the roads. Went back to the dealer today and they spent about 3 hours troubleshooting. They were extremely nice!!!(o'Brien in Indy)They called CA and were told that Toyota is aware of this problem but have yet no solution.
    In reading all the different forums I know that it was posulated to have come from Cab attachment bolts or the suspension something. Cant find where I read this. Does anyone have a diagnosis?
    Thanks a bunch.
  • buffalonickelbuffalonickel Member Posts: 113
    It has been four weeks since the deluge. Since then we have had rain, but the cab showed no leak. One difference curtmann is that mine is not an '05. It is an '03 Tacoma. So I wonder how far back in history this really goes?

    B
  • ks54ks54 Member Posts: 1
    I tried to look at the same site and still have no info for this problem. Have you or anyone else found out how to change the fog lights on Tundras to run on high beams yet???
  • mustang_mhsmustang_mhs Member Posts: 1
    HELP! Can't find the problem with my 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4WD with 175k miles...

    Problem description:

    1 - Power loss when rpms go over 3000rpm after warming up, usually 10-15 minutes of driving.

    2 - Truck runs great when cold. The fact that it runs great when cold is what seems so puzzling on this problem.

    3 - The truck will not rev over 3000rpm after it warms up. Its almost like it has a governer or something. Sputters and cuts out.

    4 - Happens regardless of uphill or downhill, grade has nothing to do with it.

    5 - Happens in any gear and\or neutral, same thing, over 3000 rpms, cuts out like its not getting gas, coughs and chokes over 3000rpm. No power whatsoever.

    6 - Cleaned the MAF (mass air flow - the small sensor between the the aircleaner box and throttle body) and cleaned the throttle body (with throttle body cleaner) after those cleanings the truck seemed to run smoother and a little stronger but ended up doing the same thing after warming up.

    7 - unplugged the battery (thinking we could "reset" the problem if it was computer related, same thing.

    8 - Installed new fuel filter, still having problem.

    9 - Talked to a toyota mechanic, he said to clean or replace the MAF which we did.

    10 - Fuel pump? Toyota mechanic said we'd be able to hear it and should be be more noticable if the truck is going up hill, this can't be the problem...

    11 - Visual inspection of plug wires, they look good. They have the year 1999 on them. Thought about changing these but that wouldn't be making this problem happen? only after warming up? Trying not to spend a small fortune replacing parts and finding it doesn't end up fixing the problem...

    12 - Stop off for gas or shut it off for about 5-10 minutes and problem disappears until it warms up again. Temp gauge normal. How weird!

    Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

    Power loss, cuts out and acts like not getting fuel anytime over 3000rpm!!!!
    HELP! Can't find the problem with my 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4WD with 175k miles.

    Problem description:

    1 - Power loss when rpms go over 3000rpm after warming up, usually 10-15 minutes of driving.

    2 - Truck runs great when cold. The fact that it runs great when cold is what seems so puzzling on this problem.

    3 - The truck will not rev over 3000rpm after it warms up. Its almost like it has a governer or something. Sputters and cuts out.

    4 - Happens regardless of uphill or downhill, grade has nothing to do with it.

    5 - Happens in any gear and\or neutral, same thing, over 3000 rpms, cuts out like its not getting gas, coughs and chokes over 3000rpm. No power whatsoever.

    6 - Cleaned the MAF (mass air flow - the small sensor between the the aircleaner box and throttle body) and cleaned the throttle body (with throttle body cleaner) after those cleanings the truck seemed to run smoother and a little stronger but ended up doing the same thing after warming up.

    7 - unplugged the battery (thinking we could "reset" the problem if it was computer related, same thing.

    8 - Installed new fuel filter, still having problem.

    9 - Talked to a toyota mechanic, he said to clean or replace the MAF which we did.

    10 - Fuel pump? Toyota mechanic said we'd be able to hear it and should be be more noticable if the truck is going up hill, this can't be the problem...

    11 - Visual inspection of plug wires, they look good. They have the year 1999 on them. Thought about changing these but that wouldn't be making this problem happen? only after warming up? Trying not to spend a small fortune replacing parts and finding it doesn't end up fixing the problem...

    12 - Stop off for gas or shut it off for about 5-10 minutes and problem disappears until it warms up again. Temp gauge normal. How weird!

    Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
  • garyandersgaryanders Member Posts: 39
    I have a 04 tundra also, and have not experienced this problem nor have I heard of any other owners with this problem. I would be real suprised if you have a leak, but if so take it back to the dealer.
  • leob1leob1 Member Posts: 153
    I take it they ran a diagnostic test and no codes? How about your O's sensor/sensors? How about the catalytic converter/s? After the exhaust gets to a hot temp they start working...at lower temperatures they do not.
  • takeouttakeout Member Posts: 4
    Maybe just a stab in the dark, but in the old days, sometimes an ignition device, mainly the coil, would overheat and the wires would somehow seperate, causing a loss of spark, till it cooled again.
    Good luck,
    TakeOut
  • takeouttakeout Member Posts: 4
    My oldie 84, with 86K, 4 cyl, 22R, first year of the electronic controled 4 spd auto, has a prob with the Charge light and Brake light both staying on after the car is started.
    I am getting regular battery voltage of about 11.5 to 12.8 volts all the time. The voltage at the Altenator output is the same, all the time.
    My son, says that the alternator always should be putting out 13.5 to 14.5 volts when the car is running. I said that the regulator will turn off or lower the output from the alt when batt is charged.
    QUESTION: Does the alt reduce it's output voltage wise, when the batt is charged? or does the voltage at the output terminal always stay at 14 volts roughly?
    Thanks for reading.
    TakeOut
  • toytrucktoytruck Member Posts: 67
    You need a new alternator
  • engineerbooengineerboo Member Posts: 45
    If you drive over to an Auto Zone, they can test out both your battery and alternator and it's free.

    That way, you'll know for sure. (My bet is the alternator is going bad but I've seen alternators mess up when the battery is going bad....so the check will let you know.)

    Good Luck!

    Boo
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Member Posts: 288
    I would look into a restricted exhaust system. Anyway you could detach the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and drive? Maybe in someone's field? It will be loud as heck, but if it runs fine you will know there is blockage in the exhaust system. (Don't burn yourself). Good luck!
  • rexrex Member Posts: 3
    I also have a 05 taco with black holes---How'd you make out?
  • takeouttakeout Member Posts: 4
    Thanks buddy,
    My son-in-law volunteered to do it since my foot is injured, and will take it to get it tested.
    TakeOut
  • takeouttakeout Member Posts: 4
    Thanks
  • ucscucsc Member Posts: 48
    Hi Sonnyboy,
    I have a 2004 Tundra V6, and I bought the anti-freeze from the Toyota dealer. The color of my anti-freeze is PINK (long time & anti-corrosion type), $17/gallon.
    UCSC
  • smitty75smitty75 Member Posts: 1
    had a problem like with a 2.7L ran great cold but lost power when it reached norm operating temp. it would start cutting out and sometimes die! did all the stuff you did (sensors,filters,ect.) finally was told by toyota my fuel was bad. i quit going to the same ol gas station problem solved! was also told to pour some injector cleaner in the tank on my next fill up.
  • cotacota Member Posts: 1
    I also noticed same noise with same truck the first day I got it. Mentioned to dealer and they are checking with Toyota to see what is going on.If Toyota is aware we should find out( I hope) eventually. Please reply if you have any info.
  • harlequinharlequin Member Posts: 1
    Hi there... I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma V6 with 21k on it, and I have noticed a noise coming from the engine; it only seems to happen when the car is good and warmed up (after driving 20 miles or so)... it is a rapid "clicking" sound that becomes audible at around 2k RPMs, and gets louder (but not faster) when I press the gas. The "clicking" sounds like metal-on-metal... I'm thinking valves, maybe? It is still under warranty... is this something I should have checked out? I don't want to be a "hypochondriac car owner" or anything, and start bringing the thing at any strange noise, but... any advice and/or possible diagnosis would be great! Thanks
  • flytundraflytundra Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 DC 4X4 Limited has around 10K miles on it now. I am on the second set of front tires, which were replaced at 3500 by the dealer after extreme wear was found. The front end has been aligned three times, and it is still not correct. It still pulls to the right, and the tires have wear on the outside edges. Has anyone else seen this problem, and what was the solution?
  • xsactaxsacta Member Posts: 26
    It's your vehicle, so I'm sure that you know when a new engine noise is present. It wouldn't appear that it's normal, but don't be shocked if that's what Toyota will tell you. They will resist addressing any engine issue short of complete or partial failure. If something bad is developing, they hope that it'll happen after your warranty is up so you'll have to shoulder the burden alone. Sounds a bit paranoid but its true.
    Hopefully you have had scheduled work done on time with documentation and ideally by a Toyota service department. Toyota, like most manufacturers, will promptly blow you off if work was performed somewhere else when a warranty issue arises. Good luck and please post Toyota's response.
  • sarniastingsarniasting Member Posts: 31
    Flytundra: I only have 13000KM (6800 mi) on my 2004 Tundra and have the same concerns about front tire wear. At this point do not have a solution as I am still trying to get the dealer to acknowledge that a problem may exist. Would also welcome any replies from others if they hed a problem and the solution.
  • kybluefan1kybluefan1 Member Posts: 1
    i have just bought a new 2005 tacoma access cab and i have been unable to find a tool box.Also i was wondering if and when i do find a box how to mount it with the new bed.Has anyone had this problem...
  • bowhunterbowhunter Member Posts: 1
    my 2003 v-6 get about 18 local and 21 highway.
    I live in New England and travel rural roads.
  • mort1983mort1983 Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2004 Tacoma that the engine hydrolocked on. Toyota is refusing to replace the engine under warranty, because water is an outside source. They say the water got in the heads thru the intake. Does anyone have any history of this happening or do you have any suggestions?
  • xszivexszive Member Posts: 1
    1993 TOYOTA PICK UP W/MAUAL TRANS.
    THE PROBLEM IS THIS: SHIFTING FROM 1ST GEAR THROUGH 3RD GEAR IS ALRIGHT. BUT AS SOON
    AS I SHIFT TO 4TH GEAR THE ENGINE STALLS OUT.
    IT KEEPS STALLING ONCE IT IS IN 4TH. ANY IDEAS
    OF WHAT THE PROBLEM COULD BE?
  • mistib1dmistib1d Member Posts: 2
    We purchased our truck last May to use in our tree planting contract. The truck now has 55,000 kms on it. It has been fairly good so far but we have had up to 450,000 kms on Chevy's and our Honda Accord under similar applications. Time will tell how this toyota fairs in the long term. We have had to replace tranys and motors on the Chevys of course but their bodies have held out very good. Driving conditions are bad where we are. The average persons idea of off-roading is a daily reality for us up here. We are in northern Manitoba. Stock tires on any brand last at most 20,000 kms. Dust conditions are horrible.

    Anyway here is what we found on our Tundra after 55,000 kms and 9 months.
    the toyota handles as well as the chevy on gravel roads.( better at higher speeds). The new fords with the ifs are too light and tend to bounce all over. the 4x4's are much better. I notice on Toyotas that they have that bounce in the first couple of inches of travel, it almost feels uneasy at first, but handles much better with a load. My sister has a t100 and it feels the same way. We have the off road package, shocks are good (even now) but tires might make good psuedo off-roaders.

    Tires were replaced at 15,000 kms for Yokohama Geolanders 10 ply rating. There is hardly any wear on them yet, but it is still winter up and tires tend to last longer. Most miles I ever put on were on Yokes at 100,000 in same conditions.

    The Toy developed a squeak in the driveline and found it was a hanger bearing. I had a local garage look at the problem, call the dealer and promptly order a new replacementunder warranty.The mechanic said one of the ball bearings fell out and told me to use until the part came in. Four months and some 20,000 kms later I am still traveling with a hanger bearing with one ball missing because I had forgotten about the replacement bearing. It took so long. I just found out two weeks ago that it did come in but i hav'nt had a chance to get it installed. I am 5 hours from the garage.

    The Toy does not start as well in sub zero temperatures. the Fords and Chevys are good in this department. My Toy struggles at starting without it being plugged in at -30 degree C. Heat in cab is good but distribution to the back is to be desired. The thermometer only works to -30C by the way. We traveled in -40 weather and the temp told us in was only -30.(t-shirt weather, i quess they don't see those temps in Texas where this Toy came out of)

    The box in the Tundra is too small but we knew this at the start. We wanted the cab space which is way better then the other guys. The box however is too small and I find the material used is too soft. After a season of treeplanting the box is all dented up and pushed against the cab causing an annoying sqeak. I have had to pull it away from the cab. I will have to get it reinforced if I am to continue using it as I have.

    Gas mileage is somewhat disappointing. We get about 18-20 miles per gal.(our gallons are bigger up here), granted I may be spoiled from my old 6.2 diesel. I suppose i can drive slower and see better numbers, but hey, up here you gotta drive 3-4 hours to see the next town. I use premium synthetic oil at slightly extended intervals from recommended. (10k vs 6k).

    Just last night I had the power steering hose let loose but I suspect I may have overloaded the truck. I had about thirty cases of pop and water and get this, eight teenagers in the truck from the local arena. Sort of epitomizes the Indian reserve truck. (note: i am not inviting slurs of any kind, i am proud Cree.) The hose is the low pressure one and basically just slipped off.

    Needless to say I am happy with the truck so far, I hope it retains its' guality feeling after 400-500,000 kms on our roads. We tend to keep our vehicles till they drop. Oh my dealer is a days drive away and I hav'nt seen them once since i purchased the truck. I bought the extended warranty to 200,000 kms and the reason i bought was our concern for major breakdowns like tranny or motor although my sisters toy is ten years old (6 cyl), 300,000 and still gets clear oil at changes. I hope to see ours that way although those extra valves tend to have more of that valve train noise. I noticed that from day one. It is reminiscent of the Honda Accord sound.

    Someone mentioned in one of the threads that braking was loud. I find the ABS very loud and sounds like Tigger in Winnie the Pooh when he bounces. I hear alot of that noise because we are virtually on ice 80% of the time. this place is a good testing ground for ABS systems.

    that's my two cents in case you guys were interested...
  • idahoronidahoron Member Posts: 18
    I am glad to hear from a real off roader. I got my 05 DC for chukar hunting. It won't be pulling big loads or have big loads in the bed, but the rough and muddy roads are the torture. I was wondering. Do you use tire chains? I understand that we can't put chains on the front. Have you ever tried? How is yours in deep snow and mud? Thanks Ron
  • mistib1dmistib1d Member Posts: 2
    i have driven the toy in fresh snow up to the doors with no chains, hauling firewood. Sure pulls nice. It is a different story in "mature' snow, you get hung up right away. Mud driving is clay driving around here. the clay clings so bad it literally tore the mud flaps (the inner ones)right off the fenders. Not many people including self do it for sport around here because it means a long walk home.
  • arcpassarcpass Member Posts: 53
    My God, I can't even imagine why someone would want to live in those extreme weather conditions. I live in Southern California where it rarely gets below 40 degrees, even in the middle of winter. Doesn't that weather just make getting around difficult if not impossible? I applaude you for being so tough & rugged.
  • gowdagowda Member Posts: 1
    I have had a noise in my front diff as well, 2003 Tundra. They replaced it at 50,000. And at 60,000 the noise is back...The noise in mine comes and goes and is at no stecific speed..Any sugestions...
  • idahoronidahoron Member Posts: 18
    The area I go into in the winter is 80 miles from the nearsest house. That county has 8000 square miles and only 8000 people. I go for days and never see another person.
    I have had to chain up all four tires on my 88 toy xtracab just to move.
    Some of the roads are very side hilly and at times I need chains so this is starting to worry me a little. Ron
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    Thanks for your two cents, mistib1d.
    I very much enjoyed reading about a lifestyle way up North that is so different from mine.

    May your Toyota serve you well for a long time.

    Regards,
    ss4
  • mikes.mikes. Member Posts: 337
    I have a 97 Tacoma extended cab V-6 with factory cruise. I've noticed the 2 or 3 times that when I set the cruise at a speed it won't hold it but will accelerate. Saturday evening while on the freeway after noticing it happening I turned off the cruise for a minute, turned it back on and set my speed at 55mph. In a few minutes I was doing 70 and still climbing. I tapped the brake to cancel cruise and reset at 60. It started climbing again.

    Has anyone else seen this problem before? Any ideas or solutions?

    MikeS.
  • controlbuscontrolbus Member Posts: 1
    I have 2004 Tundra, bought late 2003. It has been a great truck so far,knock on wood. However, tonight the horn decided to go off and continue sounding until I could disconnect the battery. It sat a while disconnected , after re connection, an hour later it started again, so I disconnected the battery again . Bet my neighbors love me tonight.I thought it may be the alarm but that didn't help when I disarmed it, the horn kept on going. Anyone have any problems like this?
  • buffalonickelbuffalonickel Member Posts: 113
    My '05 Tacoma alarm is eratic. It went off 4 times in 4 hours this morning. I have to leave the cab unlocked to stop it. However, I locked it 3 hours ago and it is now 9:30 pm and not a peep. I plan to take this to the dealer on Monday and have the gremlins flushed out.

    I did find that you have to hit the disarm button on the remote AND open and close a door to shut it down completely.

    And if you think it would help, I can post what the dealer has to say about it for you.

    B
  • philg87philg87 Member Posts: 74
    Yes please post what the dealers says about what kind of gremlins he found and why they were there.
  • toyfanatictoyfanatic Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Tundra (4x4, access cab, TRD, SR5) has had the same noise since I bought it new. I put-off taking it to the dealer out of laziness. I finally took it in and the dealer was able to duplicate the "vibration/grind" and began to try and locate the problem. They called to say that they had rotated the tires and were going to drive it again. I could have told them that the noise was present even after rotation but I didn't. They later called and told me that the differential needed replacement. Thank God it is still under warranty! I thought that I had missed my opportunity but the drive train is warranted for 5 years and ??? miles. I asked the service tech if this was an issue with the Tundras and he said "not that I know of". From the messages that I am reading, seems my truck is not unique. I have not written-off Toyotas, they can all have issues. Consumer reports still recommends the 2002 Tundra as a used truck to purchase so it must not be that widespread????
    Good luck to all.
  • madtoddermadtodder Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 tacoma, v6, 4x4, TRD with almost 13,000 miles on it. Ive noticed that when i really put the pedal down that i get this awful vibration from the motor. Almost like im giving it more fuel than it knows what to do with.

    Any thoughts?
  • bpfromncbpfromnc Member Posts: 1
    It's a rattling sound only heard during application of accelerator. Not heard while idling or coasting. Checked exhaust manifolds and heat shields for cracked weld or loose bolts, but found nothing. Could it be a baffle in the muffler that's come loose or something related to the exhaust system (ie: catalytic?).
This discussion has been closed.