Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

191012141520

Comments

  • wooddorkerwooddorker Posts: 300
    For a Ten Spot, you can print / save as many procedures as you want for 24 hours here:

    http://techinfo.toyota.com/
  • donmdonm Posts: 2
    I have a 04 Tacoma PreRunner Doublecab that does the same thing...driving me crazy! For some strange reason my seat only creaks/squeaks when its cooler or raining outside. I need to get my 15k check-up soon and I plan to talk to the dealer about it. I'll let you know my results. If anyone else has this similar issue let us know.
  • bphillipsbphillips Posts: 3
    First and foremost, I want to apologize if I am somehow posting "wrong" here. This forum format is a bit unusual to me, with me being used to the type of forum where the OP starts his/her own thread (and I don't see how I can that here).

    Anyway, a few days ago I was driving on the highway at about 55 mph or so, and my truck just died . . . I mean just flat out and immediately died. It went from running great to not at all in a split second. It turns over (seems like it's turning over fast) but that's it.

    Now, I am absolutely NO mechanic, but the cousin who picked me up on the road that day told me that it could be the timing chain, but that was based on him having broken a timing belt on a little Hyundai hatchback...not a real good comp, but he said that was exactly how his vehicle acted.

    Then, I went to speak to another distant cousin who is a pretty good mechanic, to see if he felt like looking at it. He is pretty much retired, but I thought he may want some extra money. When I told him that the truck was a Toyota, he was a bit iffy, but when I replied to his question of engine size by telling him it was a 6 cylinder, he said flatly "No", that he didn't want to fool with a Toyota 6 cyl. We had been talking a bit about what he thought was wrong with it, and when I said "6 cylinder" and got his reply of "No", he immediately said "Ask D.M.'s son...he had a Toyota 6 cyl that did that, and they fixed it". Well, it turns out (and I told him) that the truck I was referring to here was THAT exact truck, as I had bought it from D.M.'s son...he said, "Well, call him up...he can tell you. It seems like it was something to do with 'the computer'".

    So, I called the old boy up, and he told me that he had had trouble with the truck twice like that. Once, there was a "ground wire" loose on "the computer", and that a fellow near here had fixed it. He didn't know where this "computer" was at, only that he recalled the fellow fooling with a "red wire" near the battery...or so he thought, anyway. His best recall.

    Let me interrupt myself here by again stating I am no mechanic, so forgive any screw ups in terminology, etc. I am just trying to repeat him as close as possible and as best as I can recall. If what I say makes no sense, it is only because I don't know enough to recognize that.

    The second problem he told me he had had was one where "a pin (shear pin/wedge??)" that held the timing chain sprocket started to lose integrity and would allow the sprocket to turn on it's shaft a bit....this would cause the truck to screw up a bit here and there until it finally came all the way loose, and it again stopped running until fixed".

    Well, I asked around again about the location of this "computer" and was told that it maybe "under the passengers seat" or "behind the glove compartment". I ordered a Haynes manual so that I could at least locate this "computer", and all I could find that seemed to be anything remotely like that was something that was not in the "Engine Electrical Systems" section, but in the "Fuel and Exhaust Systems" section, and it was called the "ECU". It is located, according to the Haynes manual, as being somewhere near the firewall on the passengers side. The way it is shown, however, I simply cannot tell exactly where it is, because it is drawn inside of a ghost image of the truck, and I cannot tell if it is in front of the firewall or behind it. When I pop the hood, I surely don't see what I can ID as this ECU, so I assumed it had to be inside (which would concur with the guy who told me that it was "probably behind the glove compartment"). There is a bundled cable that gathers from the engine area and goes through the firewall, and to me this would also seem to make me think that this wire bundle was heading toward this "computer"/"ECU".

    So, I pulled out the glove compartment, and I see, obviously, a good bit of some sorts of electrical components, wires, etc. There is a small, angular squirrel cage blower back there, and a "tin colored" metal box on the right panel that I can see the top of peeking out of the bottom plastic molding. That metal box looking thing, maybe an inch and a half thick or so, if that, seems to be MAYBE the thing that is labeled as the "ECU" in my Haynes Manual diagram, but that is a guess. Finding it may do me little to no good anyway, as I am not sure what, if anything, I can do anyway.

    Now, I am planning on leaving Friday and taking a weeklong trip, and I am find someone to fool with the thing while I am gone. But, in the meantime, I was going to scratch and grab a bit, especially if it possibly really is something as simple as a "loose ground wire on 'the computer'". As I said, I am not a mechanic at all, but I am not a total idiot either, in that I can kinda take instruction on this sorta thing. I am surely not a stranger to working with my hands. Again, without sounding like I am trying to oversimplify this, I am simply wondering if anyone out there has any hints that would be feasible for me to check out or look into. An example of this type of thing is a question thatmy brother and I posed to this very forum (under the unsername amosmoses1 (I think)) concerning a Lumina with AC blower problems. It turned out that it was a "vaccuum actuated switch" problem, which I easily found after being told what it may be (rats chewed through a vac line, believe that or not). I just thought that someone may have had a similar problem and could at least give me a heads up on what it could be. Simply, any and all advice would definitely be greatly appreciated.

    The only other thing that I could possibly add, which may not be even remotely related to this but I still want to throw in here, is something that happened about 6 months ago to me in this truck: I was heading home from a buddy's house about 100 miles from my home. I got on the Interstate, got up to about 70 mph, and did something rather unusual for me, I turned the blower on. I have AC in the truck, but I was always one who rolled windows down. I don't recall if I was turning on the blower for AC, for defrost or wahtever, but the truck started running rough as hell. I thought it was gonna die, and it would kinda kick on and off. It was related to the blower, but I didn't realize that at first. When I cut the blower off to listen to the engine better, it stopped, which made me make the correlation. It seemed to be worse at higher speeds and only, or mostly, on the "high" blower speed. It seemed like maybe it did it less or stopped doing it on the next to highest blower speed, but I can't really recall....being so farf from home, I didn;t wantto do anything but get closer to home. I intended to look into it later, and this may sound crazy to people out there, but I never did. I just forgot about it until now. It may have quit doing that, or I may have, as strange as this sounds, never have used the blower (at least on high
  • :D this is a simple one. the horn relay is either stuck on or is intermitantly sticking, simply replace it. Its a switch that controls a higher amperage circuit by using a lower amperage circuit. It can be located by disconnecting the horn wire and listening for the relay to click when you push the horn button, in your case it will probably stick and only click once so pay attention for the relay click
  • :mad: same thing has happened to my windshield. otherwise I really like my truck
  • dbh126dbh126 Posts: 7
    I am having the same problem and just spoke with the local Toyota dealer service dept. and they have no idea what I am talking about! I don't know if Toyota has an under the dash connector or not. I know Ford does if you have the towing package. I bought my Tundra from Mike Erdman Toyota in Merritt Island, FL. The truck was one of the sales managers and like most dealers they dump the contents of the glove box so I didn't even get the pigtail and nobody in parts knows what I am asking for.

    If you get help, please post.

    Thanks, DaSH126
  • robarrobar Posts: 1
    check out the brake light bulbs. you may have 1156 type, single filliment bulbs in place of 1157 type double filliment bulbs. that will cause feedback through the electrical system all the way to the dash.
  • cos289cos289 Posts: 8
    I just bought this pick-up and in prosess of fixing it up.It has 125000 miles on speedo,the temp gauge does not work.! replaced the sending unit,no change.the car has reached a warm temp,lots of heat from the heater.I"m thinking the thermostate is ok.Any suggestions??
    Also the motor emblem on the dash, lite up ( check engine ) what could this mean??

    Thanks for the reply. cos289
  • 91ota91ota Posts: 1
    Wow, First time ever on this site and I have the same exact problem as bphillips(347). Driving down the road engine just cut off. Thought it was the timing belt. My mechanic at the garage said it was a fuse and is now trouble shooting to see what may have blown it. Any ideas????? No earlier problems to indicate that something was going wrong...
  • baileys1baileys1 Posts: 16
    Me too!! my tacoma 2002 is doing the same thing, I found some nuts loose on the seat, but still doing the same thing. I'm planning to take the seat out to check it out. I will let you know what is going on. I WILL FOUND THE FU......... SQUEAKS.
  • baileys1baileys1 Posts: 16
    I need more info on that TSB, number? date? where can I have it? I thought that noise was from the tape/cd radio, please let me know.
  • tsjtsj Posts: 3
    I realize this is a late reply. I just found the site. I have had 4 brake jobs. One of them included new rotors. That is not counting the "NEW BRAKE SET-UP THE DEALERSHIP INSTALLED". my brakes will feel almost like the front end is hopping. Also I have anti-lock brakes but they sure don't feel like it. I've had to slam on my brakes and I skid, no locking. I always get the same answers though. It,s just because the truck is so heavy.
  • tsjtsj Posts: 3
    I have had endless brake problems with my 2000 limited edition 4x4 also. I thought that they would have fixed it by 2004. I guess I'll be keeping my 2000.
  • tsjtsj Posts: 3
    I don't think the brakes anti-lock like they are supposed to. i have a 2000 Tundra & have had many brake jobs including rotors. They even went as far as to replace the entire brake set-up infront including new calipers. I skid when I have to slam on my brakes. toyota tells me there is nothing wrong though. I have went as far as telling my family that if anything happens to me because of my truck to get an attorney.
  • I recently bought a new 6 speed manual Double Cab. I was hearing a clanking noise when I would down shift. Also I could feel something not right in the clutch. I took it to the dealership and they wanted to take it into the shop. No more than 2 hours later did they call me back and tell me that a new transmission was being sent in and that they would have it done in 2-3 days.

    I asked the man what was wrong and he did not give me a straight forward answer and pretty much said that he had no idea. I asked if this was a recall and he informed me that it is not a recall. He did tell me that Toyota told him that they had switched companies and were using a different transmission and were having problems with it.

    Anyway, I was wondering if anyone else has been experiencing these problems and if so what have they done.

    Just to let everyone know. I do not know a whole heck of a lot about vehicles and this is also the first time on this site. I have already found it helpful.
  • i have a 1989 22re 4x4 that i changed blocks in using a block from a 22r that had a carb do i need to change the cam as well. it runs but seem to lack power and has a mild rough idle. i still have the 22re cam but an wondering if i losen the head bolts to change the cam will it cause the head gasket to let go by having taken the bolts out. the original motor spun a bearing. i would appreciate any help i have double checked everything else and this is the only reason i can think of as to why i would have a rough idle, lack of power and a light miss when driving at a steady speed. thanks for any help. Doug
  • I am looking for a front license plate bracket for my 05 Tundra that will conform to the curver of the bumper but will mount a license plate flat. any suggestions?
  • cos289cos289 Posts: 8
    Hi ,what can I expect on gas mileage, from a 91 toyoto pickup,4 cyl. fuel inj. ,5 speed trans. Around town and highway????
    c0s289
  • gordonsgordons Posts: 1
    I have a 89 4X4 X-Tra cab, 22RE, 5-spd with 220,000 miles and get an honest 20+ MPG overall mixed driving.
  • Absolutely, I have the same issue. I posted it on the Tundra message board recently. I found an article online talking about misaligned drive pulleys and how the squeeking is caused by the v-grooves not hitting the teeth of the pulleys just right. It sounded fairly plausible. A mechanic can troubleshoot this condition by spraying a mist sprayer on the belts as they are moving. I guess moisture will cause the misalignment to make a greater noise. I'm taking my truck to the garage tomorrow and I will bring the article with me. I think I found it on http://www.gates.com
  • 2004dcab2004dcab Posts: 1
    Hi, My 2004 Double cab was recently hit while parked and the driver and passenger doors had to be replaced. After getting it back, from the certified toyota body shop, I found a leak exactly as you explained. I had it in to the dealership body shop about 5 times and every time they explained that it had no leak. Finally the manager came over to my house to see the leak because he felt that it was due to the angle it was parked on that was caused it to leak. After I recreated the leak for him there, we parked a new 2005 tundra there and it leaked as well. This just happened today. I am waiting to see what they do, but I expect Toyota to step up to the plate and fix this problem. I could have purchased a GMC or Dodge for around $8,000 dollars less than I paid for the tundra. The ford that I parked in that spot for two years prior to this truck never leak. Other than the leak, I love the truck... Good luck keeping your tundra dry.
  • zirczirc Posts: 2
    Ok i usually dont post on these things but i read my chiltons and this forum and i am not so heavy on EFI so i thought i'd see if anyone else had the same issues.
    while driving if i get on the gas too hard the motor will hesistate and stumble real bad...but if i gradually step on the throttle there's not an issue ( fyi 5 speed manual trans) it also has difficulty starting ...but once started the issue isnt as severe as when i've driven it for awhile. I already changed the fuel filter ( what a nightmare, i wish i had the hands of the 8 yr old for that!!) the check engine light is on...but i was wondering if anybody knows or has any "its this stupid!!!" fixes ...i have a feeling its something really simple ..

    as a note i am in the navy and it sits for awhile sometimes and it started immediately after i drove it up onto a curb one day parallel parking and came down of the curb kinda hard ....when i returned is when the headache began...it wouldnt start and i had to get home...so i pulled the fuel filter and poked a hole in it as a get my butt home fix and it worked but with the stumbling when my right foot got heavy (theres was no check engine light initially). i put a new one in.....and it was better but has gotten worse over the last 2 or 3 weeks and also i guess the 76 stations around here (western WA) had been sellin crappy gas too and thats where i was goin at the time..
  • toml1toml1 Posts: 1
    Has any clarification of this problem been offered by Toyota?
  • bphillipsbphillips Posts: 3
    This is an update of sorts from post 347...

    Briefly, I had an '89 Toyota 4X4 6 Cyl, and driving down the road, the thing kills just like it was pole axed. I mean, driving fine one second, dead as a hammer the next second (See Post 347). OK, so I am no mechanic whatsoever, but I was gonna scratch and grab a bit and see if I could figure out what's wrong before sending it somewhere, with a bit of help from a Chilton's Guide and a Hayne's Guide.

    Now, I didn't even check to see if it was getting fire, which in hindsight I probably should have first off....

    I pulled the glove compartment out and also the cover from the inside passenger side sidewall to see the "computer" (I am assuming the "computer" is the ECU per the guides), because the boy who owned the truck before me had a similar problem and said that a "wire had come loose from the computer". He didn't fix it personally, but that was the best of his memory what the old boy who fixed it said it was.....he seemed to recall that it was a "red wire", maybe one that had something to do with "the battery"????, but this could all be incorrect. I am just stating it to try to give as much info here as I can. I couldn't see anything obviously wrong, so I figured I'd look at the timing belt (the reason there is because the same old boy who had the "computer problem" had a similar problem twice...once was this mysterious "loose computer wire" and the next time was a timing belt problem, one in which he said that some sort of "keyway pin came loose allowing it to jump timing"...again, I am merely repeating what he told me.

    I pulled off the timing belt cover first off just to see what it looked like...the belt looked fine, and I turned the crank until the little marks on the camshaft gears (?) lined up with the marks up above, and the rotor was passing where the #1 cylinder contact would have been had the distributor cap been on, and the timing mark was where it should have been, so I knew it wasn't a problem with the timing (please excuse any improper terminolgy...like I said, I am no mechanic whatsoever, and I am relying on a Chilton's Manual the same way any layman would use a medical surgical journal to do surgery on somebody....I am that mechanically retarded).

    I noticed that the distributor cap contacts looked like unmitigated hell, the worst that my father had ever see, and the worst I had ever seen, but of course I have seen very few myself. Four of them looked like something that had been exposed to brine, and were more than rusty, they were absolutely corroded. So, I went and got a new rotor, distributor cap, along with air filter, spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, oil and filter, belts, figuring I'd change the whole nine yards while I was in there...we really figured that the problem was the distributor cap after seeing it. I changed everything out, and having broke a bolt from the distributor when I took the cap off, as well as breaking off an ease out in the little bolt, I cleaned the distributor real good and used two bolts as well as a tiny bit if RTV to keep the distributor cap on. All spark plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap had been changed. I tried to fire the truck up, still no go.

    Well, THEN I checked to see if I was getting fire, and I wasn't. My dad, who knows a bit about mechanics but a helluva lot about electronics after working 35 years as an Installer for Western Electric/AT&T Technologies/Lucent, got a multimeter and started poking around, and he told me that the "coil was bad". What he did, as he FINALLY explained it, was "Ohmed it out....checking the primary and secondary coils in relation to each other, and the primary coil". He doesn't explain anything to idiots like me...we speak different languages, and he said that "he could not explain what he did without a schematic"....when I first asked him what he did to check the coil, he acted like it was ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE to explain, even if he were to try to explain it someone else "who was versed in electronics". I kept imploring if not begging him to tell me what he did so that I could post this accurately, and eventually that was when he told me that he "ohmed it out....checking the primary and secondary coils in relation to each other, and the primary coil". That was like pulling teeth, and I consider myself EXTREMELY lucky to get that out of him...those 18 words took about 18 minutes to get. Now, I was standing there when he did this check on the coil last night, but I had no idea what he was doing, and he used two multimeters to do it, even doing it again with the removed coil later inside the house.

    Well, I scratched around and finally found a coil at an AutoZone about 40 miles from here, so I picked it up and put it in the truck, and tried to fire it up, assuming 100% that this would be it and it would be a done deal....still wouldn't crank! My Dad got the meter out, checked at the new coil with it, said it was good, and asked to look at the old coil. I got it, and when I was bringing it out I dropped it, and when he checked it again, he started scratching his head, looking confused. He said that the old coil was "[now] good"....so, where we stand with that is assuming that he must have screwed up testing it last night because the thing surely didn't heal, and dropping it wouldn't have "fixed" it. The thing is that he checked it several times last night, and we still don't know how he could have screwed up like that. He thought for a second that maybe the coil wire had somehow been "burnt" and there was a slight gap between the burnt ends that the drop may have "reconnected" enough to make it "OK" again, but that was mere hypothesis, and he is the first to admit that he doesn't know anything about the manufacture of these coils. He KNOWS what he's doing with schematics, but we simply assumed that he must have screwed up testing the old coil, and that it was actually good all along....that's all we can assume.

    So, he checked to see that "the battery was getting to the igniter and coil", and it was. The coil is definitely good now, but we still are not getting fire from it. He figured that maybe it was the igniter, but we are wondering how to go about ruling out that it is the igniter without having to buy one and swap it out.

    I assume that is what we need to check out next...the igniter....it would surely seem that it is the igniter, distributor, or the ECU, but how would one go about checking that out? If there was at least a way to rule out the igniter, that would be a good start.

    I aplogize for the length of the post, but I am a firm believer in if I am going to ask someone for advice, I REFUSE to do so unless I can explain the situation as fully and as explicitly as I can. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

    I would love to know what the results were from Post 354 (91ota) after his mechanic traced the problem out, but I couldn't email him, as his email was pr
  • I just bought a new 2005 Toyota tacoma prerunner last week. Its a manual 5 speed and I have problems with getting it to crank of the first try. Its starts up the second time perfectly and runs great. Its just annoying that its brand new and doesn't start right away like most new cars should. I am taking it in to have it inspected tomorrow by toyota dealer ,but has anyone had the same problem?
  • Recently my a/c went out on me. I took it to the shop and was told that either my compressor or condensor (cant remember) was melted and needed to be replaced. The mechanic also said that it would be 500 to replace (the part) and another 500 for service. seemed a little steep so i wanted some opinion on whats going on

    Thanks
  • mitundramitundra Posts: 2
    This may be a stupid question for those who have done this already, but what is the procedure for replacing the O2 Sensor on my 00 Tundra. I looked at these for a minute the other night and couldn't plainly see any head to mount a wrench on securely. Any help would be apprecitated.

    The history of my 2000 Tundra goes as follows. It is a SR5 4wd Access Cab V-8 that I purchased new in May of 2000. It had some vibration problems in the begining and was remedied with a couple of tire balancings. I installed new pads in the front at around 45000 miles. I had a transmission problem starting around 53000 miles. It would shift so hard it felt like it was going to blow then it would run fine. It was in the dealer several times for this and everytime they said they couldn't pinpoint the problem. It finaly went at 58000 miles an she was done. I was given a Matrix for a loaner while they replaced the tranny with a new one. This took them 4 weeks to get the tranny and another few days to fix. They had my truck for 27days and the bill would have been $2800 but it was covered under warrenty.

    I installed a set of Goodyear AT/D tires and they might has well have been square on this truck they drove like crap for two years till I couldn't stand it anymore. I replaced those with a set of Bridgstone Dueller HL alenzas and they are awesome. The parking brake seized around 80000 miles and then I developed a slight vibration at braking. I had the rears inspected and they said they were fine but wanted to charge over $400 to replace the front rotors and pads. I was able to get the best pads and two new rotors for $121 out the door and did it myself. This was done at 96000 miles along with changing the spark plugs and gear lubes. Unfortuantly I still have a slight vibration that I think is a warped rear drum. It has developed a slight exhaust leak that is likely a crack in the header.

    The truck now has 102000 miles and the check engine light just came on for the first time. I reset it and it was off for a day then came back on again. All in all it's been a great truck but has had more problems than any other of the 4 Toyotas I have owned. I want to dump this truck and get a new one but I want to wait to get the new plastic bed on the Tundra and I would really like diesel. I may be shopping for a domestic diesel soon if the price is right. I thought I would have 0 problems with this one to 120000 miles but it was not the case here, and miine is far better then alot of those on this and other websites.
    Hope somebody has an answer for the O2 Sensor replacement I figure I can do both around a hundred cheaper then the dealer can do one for. So what do I have to lose .
    Thanks.
    Dan
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Not sure if it's the same as my Mustang, but there's a special socket for an O2 sensor. Did you run the codes to be sure it's the O2 sensor that is causing the check engine light?
  • tniharttnihart Posts: 1
    I have the same noise with my 04 Tundra (Crew Cab). The dealership has been great about trying to figure out/fix the problem, but as of today the noise is still there and I am still not happy. Long story short - rubbing/vibrating noise associated with front diff/driveline most noticeable between 10 and 25 MPH. Noise goes away in 4WD. It is NOT the tires - they replaced all of my tires with a better brand and the noise stayed. It is NOT the fluids - they replaced all of my diff fluids and the noise remained. They have had several techs and regional service reps look at it and the last answer I got was that it is probably some type of design flaw that does not affect the safety or performance of the vehicle. It is just VERY annoying - especially when I am paying over $30K for the thing. I could have bought two vehicles for the same and probably never had an issue! The tech said that the front diffs that he has replaced because of the same noise only made the noise worse. That has led him to believe that the noise "gets better with time" as the diff loosens up...not a good answer. Not sure what to do next - probably write a letter to Toyota, but will get nothing more than satisfaction of complaining. I don't expect much more help...I will be trading the vehicle in as soon as I can break even.
  • Can anyone suggest a good aftermarket replacement muffler for a V6 T100 4x4 xtracab? I don't drive the truck much except on icy roads to work in the winter. I bought it new in 1995 and have 45K on it. The muffler has rusted out and I want to replace with a low back-pressure flowmaster or some other brand, hopefully in stainless so it doesn't rust out from short trips. I checked some of the on-line muffler 'selectors' but haven't found anything except OEM Borsal at $131.
    Thanks
This discussion has been closed.