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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
You may be able to cut to size a good anti-allergy home furnace filter, and save some bucks over the factory filter cost.
HTH.
Does anyone have any ideas why this would happen? I have also checked the fuses and they are fine. :surprise:
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Well, with the help of my father, we "went through" the ignition system as good as we could with the aid of a Chilton's and Haynes manuals....this was extensive, with us looking at everything several times. Well, long story short, it turned out to be a fuse under the hood labeled "EFI"....I looked at the thing on the road during the original problem, but without glassesI simply overlooked it. I told my Dad that the fuses were fine, but he found it when he was poking around with a multimeter. Changing the fuse fixed the thing, and it cranked right up. I changed the distributor, coil, rotor, etc., while I was doing all the looking around, and I looked everywhere in the wiring that I could for any sort of short. I mean, I knew that the fuse blew for a reason, but I never found anything and just hoped that it was a fluke with the fuse..
Well, that was about two or three months ago, and it had been running fine since then. Yesterday, going down the interstate I started to smell plastic burning, but since I am right in the middle of all the Katrina aftermath, I just attributed it to some other thing, thinking that the smell was in the air and not in my truck. Exiting the interstate and stopping at a red light, the truck died and wouldn't start. I popped the hood and smelled burning plastic strong, and I popped the fuse box cover to check that fuse, and it was completely melted, and when I say completely, I mean COMPLETELY. The plastic of the fuse body (the little flat fuses) was a melted blue blob, and the slot that the fuse fit in was totally melted, finally breaking contact. Why in the world the fuse did not blow I have no idea, but it melted it, melted the fuse box, and several inches of all the wires going to it. This was, as I said, the same fuse that gave me problems before...it is in the fuse box under the hood, and it is labeled "EFI".
Anyway, I am hoping that it did not burn up one or more components, and that it killed simply because the fuse finally broke contact after melting away. As hot as it got, though, who knows....this was a fuse ONLY. No stupidity involved with tin foil or anything AT ALL like that. Just a brand new fuse the same sise as the one I removed (I am pretty sure it was 15 A).
Obviously, it will be extremely hard for anyone to tell me anything about this problem going by this post alone, but I posted it on the off chance that someone may have had this same problem and may be able to steer me toward something to check into. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I can assure you!
Thanks!!
has this happened to anyone before? or does anyone know what I need to do to fix the problem. Any information would be helpful.
Thanks In Advance!
Does anyone know what to replace, for error code p1135 Fuel Air Metering
Replaced plugs and throtle position senser still no luck.
Thank You Chuck
in the console which comes on at 3,000 mile intervals. Any help would be much
appreciated :confuse:
See your owner's manual in the glove box for details.
Three months later, coolant in oil again. Pulled head, installed Fel-Pro gasket, sent head out and now the shop said it was mildly warped so they decked it.
One month later, now the OIL IS IN THE COOLANT, floating on top of the rad when you take the cap off. He's completely freaked out by the 'change of direction'.
Any help most appreciated. Thanks.
cos289 :shades:
Did you buy it new? Have you been in an accident?
Good Luck,
Ed
I have a 2005 toyota tundra double cab only has 5000 mike on it noe.
Thanks You
Rob
problem is last summer notice the engine making a knocking or pinging sound when I first
start the engine in the morining when it's cold. After about twenty to 30 sec. the sound goes away for the rest of the day. Anyway the sound never stopped so I took the truck into the
dealer last week; and was told that both manifold's were cracked. The dealership went ahead
and installed two new manifold's. But the noise problem when I first start in the morning
hasn't gone away. The dealership people tell me that the pinging or knocking sound is now
internal. Can anybody out there please give me some help? I'm on limited budget & cost for the
manifold's were $ 1,200.00! Thank You. Tim My truck has 51,000 miles.
Good Luck
Lance
Lance
Lance
Thanks,
Buy a newer car? Just kidding, my guess would be fuel filter
If so, have you checked them out?
I'd see if there is play in the U-joint. Grip tight and twist things, see if there is any play at all (there shouldn't be). And if there is a grease nipple, shoot some grease into it, and see if that affects things.
My experience is that wheel bearing problems show up first at low speeds, especially while turning. Yours doesn't do that, if I read you right. And once they show up, it isn't long before things seize up.
Look in the back passenger side wheel well.
It's often just behind the frame in a small bracket.
Pull it up out of the bracket and toward the wheel well to the full length of the tubing to get a working space.
Once you loosen the screw clamps rotate the tubes a little on the nibble with a pair of pliers because the tend to stick.
The tube should pop out, without using the pliers.
Problem:
Tinking noise near front of engine at mid RPMS. Quiet at stop and crusing speeds.
Replaced Fan clutch. Felt a little loose and was crossing fingers. Didn't fix noise. Fan works great.
Hypothesis: Crossing fingers, might be water pump or it's pulley. If not it's probably the timing chain. 230,000 miles, don't know if it has ever been changed.
Question:
On 84 Nissan Pickup the timing chain can be replaced without removing head. Haynes Toyota manual procedure says that head comes off first. Why? From the one picture in the manual it doesn't look like there are pins between the head and the timing chain cover plate.
Entertaining Background:
Pulling head adds significant complexity (i.e. fear). I did the timing on the Nissan by myself from the Haynes manual in the yard having never opened the engine block before. (i.e. I've done oil, plugs, distributor, ...) Turning key on my only vehicle after my first look into it's inards was a fearfull thing. I knew enough about the engine to realize that if I screwed something up on this one there would be a great grinding of metal and alot of walking in my future.
I checked my fuse"s all are OK,where do I go from here?????
Thanks COS 289 :