Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

suvshopper4 · August 2005

If there is a cabin filter (behind the glove box?), you might try replacing it.

You may be able to cut to size a good anti-allergy home furnace filter, and save some bucks over the factory filter cost.

HTH.

leekaster · August 2005

Should I change to syn oils at 10K mi to avoid the sludge prob's Toy has been having?

mikefm58 · August 2005

The sludge problem is old old news. You should be fine.

pb2themax · August 2005

Amsoil all the way! Best stuff out there. Do a google search to see test results.

6corona9 · September 2005

I been having problems with my wipers not workin when I checked it out the first time I squeezed the wires and they all of a sudden started working. After that they had worked for over a month and then when I had them on and needed some to spray some washer fluid they all of a sudden just died.

Does anyone have any ideas why this would happen? I have also checked the fuses and they are fine. :surprise:

jrfan2 · September 2005

Looking for some instructions for programming a keyless entry remote on 2004 Tundra Double Cab.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

bphillips · September 2005

I have an '89 Toyota 4X4 V-6, and driving down the road, the thing kills just like it was pole axed. I mean, driving fine one second, dead as a hammer the next second. OK, so I am no mechanic whatsoever, but I was gonna scratch and grab a bit and see if I could figure out what's wrong before sending it somewhere, with a bit of help from a Chilton's Guide and a Hayne's Guide.

Well, with the help of my father, we "went through" the ignition system as good as we could with the aid of a Chilton's and Haynes manuals....this was extensive, with us looking at everything several times. Well, long story short, it turned out to be a fuse under the hood labeled "EFI"....I looked at the thing on the road during the original problem, but without glassesI simply overlooked it. I told my Dad that the fuses were fine, but he found it when he was poking around with a multimeter. Changing the fuse fixed the thing, and it cranked right up. I changed the distributor, coil, rotor, etc., while I was doing all the looking around, and I looked everywhere in the wiring that I could for any sort of short. I mean, I knew that the fuse blew for a reason, but I never found anything and just hoped that it was a fluke with the fuse..

Well, that was about two or three months ago, and it had been running fine since then. Yesterday, going down the interstate I started to smell plastic burning, but since I am right in the middle of all the Katrina aftermath, I just attributed it to some other thing, thinking that the smell was in the air and not in my truck. Exiting the interstate and stopping at a red light, the truck died and wouldn't start. I popped the hood and smelled burning plastic strong, and I popped the fuse box cover to check that fuse, and it was completely melted, and when I say completely, I mean COMPLETELY. The plastic of the fuse body (the little flat fuses) was a melted blue blob, and the slot that the fuse fit in was totally melted, finally breaking contact. Why in the world the fuse did not blow I have no idea, but it melted it, melted the fuse box, and several inches of all the wires going to it. This was, as I said, the same fuse that gave me problems before...it is in the fuse box under the hood, and it is labeled "EFI".

Anyway, I am hoping that it did not burn up one or more components, and that it killed simply because the fuse finally broke contact after melting away. As hot as it got, though, who knows....this was a fuse ONLY. No stupidity involved with tin foil or anything AT ALL like that. Just a brand new fuse the same sise as the one I removed (I am pretty sure it was 15 A).

Obviously, it will be extremely hard for anyone to tell me anything about this problem going by this post alone, but I posted it on the off chance that someone may have had this same problem and may be able to steer me toward something to check into. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I can assure you!

Thanks!!

bullfrog4 · September 2005

I have a '89 4x4. First, I just had the front brakes replaced and went on an 8 hour drive and the bolts that hold the caliper on fell out. I replaced these and everything seemed to work fine. I drove the 8 hours back, and now there is a tick when I am driving. Its not in the engine as it only appears when I am moving. The tranmission seems to be working fine. When I accelerate the frequency of the tick also increases. It almost sounds like it's coming from the same wheel that I had the brake mishap, but I'm wondering if it's not in my trasfer case or rear end. Also, there is a distinct whining sound as I decelerate.

has this happened to anyone before? or does anyone know what I need to do to fix the problem. Any information would be helpful.

Thanks In Advance!

pjsman · September 2005

2001Tacoma engine fault code p1135
Does anyone know what to replace, for error code p1135 Fuel Air Metering
Replaced plugs and throtle position senser still no luck.

Thank You Chuck

mb2foru · September 2005

We purchased a Tundra from Wilmington Toyota of Wilmington NC in June and the Dealer totally does not do what they agree to do in deal they make with you. They agreed to put options on the truck we purchased to match a vehical they were going to have shipped in. After the purchase the dealer denies they ever agreed to the deal and not only that they don't even know what they put on the vehical as every person we talk to at the dealership has no clue as to what our truck has on it. I am a disabled person and need the side running boards to get in the truck and never would have agreed to buy a truck without them and now we are being screwed out of about 9k in options. Why would we agree to pay the same price for a truck with 9k less in options on it? We wouldn't and nobody would. Anyone thinking of buying from this dealer should think again as they are not trust worthy and we never will buy anything from these people again.

outlawd · September 2005

Ok I've changed my oil and would like to know how to reset the "Maint Req" light
in the console which comes on at 3,000 mile intervals. Any help would be much
appreciated :confuse:

jennifer13 · September 2005

i have 2 lights for my 02 tacoma on the license plate and i checked the fuses and the bulbs and everything seems ok, anyone have any ideas? should i take it to the dealer since its still under factory warranty? :confuse:

msibille · September 2005

It's accomplished using the odo reset button.
See your owner's manual in the glove box for details.

volvnatic · September 2005

Friend of mine is pulling his hair out... has a '91 4Runner, under 200k, immaculate and well maintained. A few months back he saw an external coolant leak around the timing cover, also some evidence of coolant in the engine oil. So he pulled the head, changed the gasket with a Toyota one, sent the head to a machine shop who said it was fine, cleaned it and reinstalled.

Three months later, coolant in oil again. Pulled head, installed Fel-Pro gasket, sent head out and now the shop said it was mildly warped so they decked it.

One month later, now the OIL IS IN THE COOLANT, floating on top of the rad when you take the cap off. He's completely freaked out by the 'change of direction'.

Any help most appreciated. Thanks.

ustazzaf · September 2005

The main reason that you would get grinding at that speed is because you have 1 or more tires that is worn more than the others, which is causing the gears to not be going the speed when you try to shift. If the tires are not rotated religiously, or if you have a tire go bad and have to put 1 or 2 on with 10K mileage difference, you will get this problem. That is a major problem with all wheel drive vehicles. You can't even move the odd tire to a different position to eliminate the problem. People do it, but it cuts mileage and beats the heck out of the drive line because there is alway both axles locked in. Atleast with a true 4X4, you can put the oddball on the front and leave the 4X4 locked out unless in soft ground. You may have a tranny or diff problem, but I would suspect the tires first. You might even have a different size tire in one position. I shifted my Tundra on the fly all the time. I personnaly did it slower because if something does go wrong during transition, by the time you get stopped, you will have parts scattered all over the road.

cos289 · September 2005

I"M not hearing a clunking noise, but my question have you ever changed oil in your trans? If so will the standard 80-90 wt oil work or is a higher grade oil necessary?

cos289 :shades:

edkruzel · September 2005

Sounds as if you have a misalignment or an ubstruction on the framing. First thing to do is to take it to a body shop and have them look it over for any twisting of the frame or body.
Did you buy it new? Have you been in an accident?

Good Luck,
Ed

crk7376 · October 2005

I've got a '05 Tacoma Access Cab that has had the "Check Engine Light" come on 8 times in the past 6 months. Bought new, taken in to dealer each time light comes on, serviced on schedule, dealer trying to make repairs, problems still exists. Sounds like a lemon to me. Anybody else having "Check Engine Light" issues with their Tacoma?

robertheard · October 2005

Hey I haveing the sma problem wondering if you happened to fix your problem and maybe can help me.
I have a 2005 toyota tundra double cab only has 5000 mike on it noe.
Thanks You
Rob

doglover7 · October 2005

My 2005 Double Cab also does this and has been for the last few months. I have 3600 miles on it. Definately sounds like a belt or tensioner issue. Only heard from cold startup in the morning and gets quieter as the engine warms up. It's the first and only thing so far on my list for warranty repair.

bosco3 · October 2005

I own a tundra 01 I purchase the truck new & change the oil myself using Red Line Oil. The
problem is last summer notice the engine making a knocking or pinging sound when I first
start the engine in the morining when it's cold. After about twenty to 30 sec. the sound goes away for the rest of the day. Anyway the sound never stopped so I took the truck into the
dealer last week; and was told that both manifold's were cracked. The dealership went ahead
and installed two new manifold's. But the noise problem when I first start in the morning
hasn't gone away. The dealership people tell me that the pinging or knocking sound is now
internal. Can anybody out there please give me some help? I'm on limited budget & cost for the
manifold's were $ 1,200.00! Thank You. Tim My truck has 51,000 miles.

baileys1 · October 2005

You should check out your wipers control handle on your control column. :confuse:

baileys1 · October 2005

Check out the steel plate on the back of the front wheels, sometime that plate get bent after maintenance on wheel area and making a scrachy noise with the disc turning, never know, sometime stupid thing like this can drive you crazy for month.

bosco3 · October 2005

lancekilgore · October 2005

If you or your father put a bigger fuse than required it would do it. say it called for a 10 amp you you put a 15 or 20 amp fues in it it would casue this problem. something in the efi system is shorting out causing the fuse to blow. once you get it sorted you need to check for bare wires in the system. needless to say you may have burned up some stuff. Not good.

Good Luck

Lance

lancekilgore · October 2005

It needs to be taken back aprt and inspected something is not right, especially if it did not do that before the fix. take it aprt slowly and check for any thing loose or out of place.

Lance

lancekilgore · October 2005

Check for a dirty MAP or MAF sensor in the ari duct tubing could be dirty clean with a eletrical spray cleaner. be careful it is a small wire that goes across the gap and breaks easily.

Lance

graab · October 2005

I recently purchased 2005 Tacoma, had serviced twice due to my concern about the engine RPM increasing or maintaining itself at a level on it's own and highly noticable between 4th and 5th gears at any RPM where the RPM's actually increase with the clutch in and even when applying the brake. Dealer stated that this was normal even when they tested and during applying the brake did not reduce the RPM's. Sounds fishy???? I am Looking for more information about this hazard.

gomez4x4 · October 2005

Just came back from the dealer -- have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma 4x4. Dealer said front rotors had bad runout. Replacing the rotors (had to pay, what a drag) seems to ahve fixed *that* problem. Didn't help the vibration (shimmy) issue that started cropping up last week. Have them check the front rotors -- my truck was making a grinding / rubbing noise making right hand turns about 20 - 30 MPH into sidestreets, etc.

strongdog · October 2005

try checkinf for burnt wires on your o2 sensors,right by the cat convertor

rob68filly · October 2005

My 2002 v8 Toyota Tundra makes what I call a harmonic warble noise from the time I start driving, but is much more noticeable at 60-70 mph. Any thoughts on what might be making this noise? When I first purchased the vehicle I did not have this noise. Tires replaced and the noise continued. Shocks replaced, noise continued.
Thanks,

channelcat · October 2005

Volvnatic, A friend of mine had a 22R that started getting water in the oil. I wish I could remember exactly what the problem was, but something on the front of the engine lost a bearing/bushing and caused the problem. Whatever it was that failed allowed a pulley or something to rub against a plate on the front of the motor eventually wearing a hole in it allowing the water and oil to mix. If my memory is correct it may have been a timing chain gear or idler. I remember him saying that this was a fairly common problem on 22Rs with 180K to 200K miles. I'll try to find out this week and get back to you.

surfcap13 · October 2005

I have a 2001 Tundra Limited and I am thinking of purchasing a 4.5" Tuff country lift kit, and I was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to have that installed in Los Angeles?

channelcat · October 2005

Volvnatic, I talked to my friend today and he told me what happened to his 22R. The timing chain gets slack as it wears and begins to rub a plate that has water on the other side of it. Eventually the chain wears a small hole in the plate and allows water to leak into the cavity where the timing chain runs. This cavity is open to the oil pan on the lower side so water leaks into the oil pan. I don't know how oil would get into the water if this happened so this may not be your friends problem, but it's worth a look.

tdalet · November 2005

I have a 1984 Toyota that I just bought a few months ago, and it has quit working. It was running fine but as I was driving from work, it suddenly died. I had to let it sit for an hour before it would start again. This after removing the air filter. After driving for a few minutes, the same thing happened and I had to wait another hour. I went through the same procedure with the same results for a third time. When I finally got home after more than three hours, I went in and came out the next day and the truck started fine. I drove it to the post office and back home. Then I let it sit again for two days. Now it won't even start at all. I thought the problem might be bad gas, as I had been running on one tank of gas for three months as I only used the truck to take off the trash until I could get a tag for it. I tried some fuel treatment and changing the air filter. I wonder if it could be the fuel filter but I don't know where it is or what it looks like. Could someone please give me some advice?

mikefm58 · November 2005

" Could someone please give me some advice? "

Buy a newer car? Just kidding, my guess would be fuel filter

woof · November 2005

Just waiting for my '06 PreRunner, so I stopped by the dealer to look one over. Opened the tailgate: seems VERY flimsy. Wonder if it will hold up to real world use? Looked under the hood and was surprised to see a belt-driven fan--why not an electric fan that doesn't waste engine power and MPG? These things seem out of place for an otherwise excellent, new design. Would be great if Toyota offered upgrades for these items. Lastly, seems that gas mileage should be better for the V6 models from what I'm seeing on another board here. My old T100 got 25 MPG highway from its 3.4L V6 in a larger (wider) truck--with a strong tailgate! Chevy has been using electric fans in their trucks, probably one factor for my V8 'big boy' Silverado getting 21 MPG. (Silverado has a super strong tailgate!)

captain_kirk · November 2005

I have a 2001 toyota tacoma 3.4l, with 215,000 miles, the check engine light came on, had it checked at a nearby firestone,$99.00, was told that it was a code p0420. called the dealer he said that could be many different things. the truck has not changed in it's running. Dealer said it could be 1 of 2 cataytic converters. Any suggestions.

mikefm58 · November 2005

Try a google or Yahoo search on "toyota p0420" and see if it's something common or maybe the likely cause is an easy fix. You should have taken it to a local auto parts store like Auto Zone or Advance Discount instead of Firestone. They will read the code for nothing and then print out likely causes. Did that with my 98 Mustang and only had to change one O2 sensor.

ted77 · November 2005

I have a 91 Toy Pick Up, a very annoying vibration and sound develops when I accelerate above 30mph and does not go away even on freeway. Sound goes away when I slow down to under 30mph. The sound cuts in and out but for the most part is very consistent. The pitch flucuates from a low grumbly sound to a high pitch. The sound has been driving me nuts for about 4 months now, I am scared to take it to a shop and have them suggest fixing/replacing parts that don't need to be. There was a period of about 3 weeks a month or so ago where it did not make the sound at all, then it came back and I think it is angry. If anyone has experienced this before and knows what is causing this please let me know.

suvshopper4 · November 2005

That rig got U-joints?
If so, have you checked them out?

ted77 · November 2005

It does have ujoints in the front, could it be the wheel barings as well or is it more likely to be the u-joints?

suvshopper4 · November 2005

I'm no doctor, but...

I'd see if there is play in the U-joint. Grip tight and twist things, see if there is any play at all (there shouldn't be). And if there is a grease nipple, shoot some grease into it, and see if that affects things.

My experience is that wheel bearing problems show up first at low speeds, especially while turning. Yours doesn't do that, if I read you right. And once they show up, it isn't long before things seize up.

prook · November 2005

I have a tacoma 96' v6 4x4. My light came on also and the truck ran fine. I also have a friend that works at Firestone as a mechanic. He checked it and said it was probably the O2 sensor and reset my computer on the truck. I have not fixed it yet but my engine light came back on after a short time. Hope that helped. Sorry it wasn't more information for you. Let me know what you did. Phil

gardener · November 2005

Fuel filter location and removal hints:
Look in the back passenger side wheel well.
It's often just behind the frame in a small bracket.
Pull it up out of the bracket and toward the wheel well to the full length of the tubing to get a working space.
Once you loosen the screw clamps rotate the tubes a little on the nibble with a pair of pliers because the tend to stick.
The tube should pop out, without using the pliers.

gardener · November 2005

Truck: 85 Toyota Pickup 4cylinder 2WD manual. Runs great, and still has original A/C.

Problem:
Tinking noise near front of engine at mid RPMS. Quiet at stop and crusing speeds.

Replaced Fan clutch. Felt a little loose and was crossing fingers. Didn't fix noise. Fan works great.

Hypothesis: Crossing fingers, might be water pump or it's pulley. If not it's probably the timing chain. 230,000 miles, don't know if it has ever been changed.

Question:
On 84 Nissan Pickup the timing chain can be replaced without removing head. Haynes Toyota manual procedure says that head comes off first. Why? From the one picture in the manual it doesn't look like there are pins between the head and the timing chain cover plate.

Entertaining Background:
Pulling head adds significant complexity (i.e. fear). I did the timing on the Nissan by myself from the Haynes manual in the yard having never opened the engine block before. (i.e. I've done oil, plugs, distributor, ...) Turning key on my only vehicle after my first look into it's inards was a fearfull thing. I knew enough about the engine to realize that if I screwed something up on this one there would be a great grinding of metal and alot of walking in my future.

manager · December 2005

I have a 1999 Tacoma, 2.7L 5 speed 4x4 that has developed a loud squeal from the right rear upon deceleration. It does not happen all the time. This is was has me perplexed. I have removed my aluminum toolbox and bedliner, but the noise is still there. I have used almost three bottles of WD-40 under the truck. Any other suggestions?????

sonnyboy · December 2005

I have a 2003 Tundra with the 6cd stereo. Does anyone know if there is a Aux output on the back of the radio so I can hook the Sirius radio directly into it?

bcampbell1 · December 2005

I have an 03 Prerunner auto. 4x2 with 30k that had the same problem. When I came to a stop and put on the brake it would clunk. When I let off the brake it would clunk. It ended up being the slip yoke at the rear of the drive shaft. I have it serviced at the dealer and they never greased it. They changed the drive shaft and it is like a new truck. I do have a shifting problem when it is cold it won't shift from 2nd.to 3rd. at 24mph like it should until it hits 36mph. After the first series it shifts perfect. Anyone have a similar problem? BILL

cos289 · December 2005

Hi Fellows,all of a sudden my Idoit lites do not lite up!

I checked my fuse"s all are OK,where do I go from here?????

Thanks COS 289 :

Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions