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What Car is Right For Me? Help Me Choose!

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  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    The 2.5 liter engine in the Altima does have some issues on some years that can be catastrophic, so its best to avoid it altogether, IMHO.

    Of your choices, I'd also vote Maxima. Although I'd want a year without the CVT ... I couldn't tell you what years those are, though.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    I'd add a couple of vehicles to your list to possibly look at as the Camry is possibly the most bland piece of Tupperware on the road (plus 10 years old is old, even for a Camry) and the Altima/Maxima isn't exactly that reliable.

    You have possibly 15K or so to spend.

    - 2004 Pontiac GTO with manual. This engine and transmission combination was offered for one year and its claim to fame is a 300hp Corvette V8 engine that gets 30mpg highway. That's not a typo. You can get the same mpg as the Camry or close to it and have a lot more fun. Note - any other year or with automatic and MPG drops to close to 20 combined vs 25 combined. 11-12K, so it's exactly what you want to spend as well. That leaves a lot left over for upkeep, though Corvette engines are known to be decently robust and cheap to fix.

    - 2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x4. This is bulletproof, holds its value incredibly well (off-roaders will pay 3K for a 25 year old 4x4 model even!), and most of all, can haul stuff. It's the perfect first vehicle. And it's unstoppable in bad weather. This is the last year of the previous design so all of the gremlins were worked out and it's also much much cheaper to fix and repair. 12K should get you a mint condition example.

    - If you were willing to spend a bit more money on a new car, the obvious choice is the 2012 Mustang with the brand new direct injection V6. It gets 31mpg highway and has 305HP. At 22K, it's an absolute steal. At the end of the model year in 5 months, expect 20K after rebates. It also uses regular 87 octane gas.

    Reviews are great and everyone loves theirs - it's sporty, fun, and frugal. The base model is fine as well - you don't need any options on it as it's all bling and spoilers and so on.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    According to KBB, a 2005 Maxima SE with the equipment and miles you noted has a private party value of $13k ("Good" condition) and retail value of $13.7k (Good condition) to $15.6k (Excellent condition) in my area. So the asking price of $12,500 is not out of line if the car is in good condition.

    The reliability of the 2005 Maxima is Average according to Consumer Reports. Also, 61,500 miles is pretty low for a six-year-old car.

    If you like the Maxima and can afford it, have it checked out by a mechanic and if it looks good, make an offer (maybe $12k even). Life is short. Drive something you will enjoy driving, if the budget allows it.

    P.S. 2005 Maximas have a regular 5-speed automatic, not the CVT, if that is a concern.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    I'm assuming you didn't take into account potential insurance rates for a young driver when you made the "obvious" Mustang suggestion.

    It's a first car... bland is OK. Bland is good for insurance rates. Bland doesn't upset you when the vehicle finally dies or gets in a fender-bender. I'm a strong anti-advocate of getting an awesome first car. Wait til you've got the $$ and the experience, THEN get it.

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  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    edited April 2011
    The insurance rates for a young driver hardly are different between any of these cars, to be honest. The V6 Mustang isn't considered to be problematic. The insurance companies ARE smart enough to factor in the fact that it's the base model. (why I recommended that specific trim level) In fact, I ran across several posts about this after a quick online search that suggested that a base model Mustang would be about the same as a new Elantra or Accord or similar. It's the V8 and GT that is 2x normal cost. They still see the V6 as a bland commuter-box in their computers.

    He'll be paying close to $2K a year no matter what, anyways. Maybe the Tacoma would save him $300 or so a year, if that. I'd still recommend a used 4WD Tacoma as my top choice, though. Get a standard cab 4 cylinder model with manual and 4WD. The number of times I needed to haul stuff as a young person in my early to mid 20s numbered in the hundreds. Just not having to rent a U-Haul when you move is huge. Giving your friends help because you are the only one with such a vehicle is a great way to make friends as well.

    http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=295781686
    This is a perfect example - it even comes with a shell.

    http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=293124365
    Extended cab. Use it. Abuse it. And it's also going to plow through a Yaris like a tin can in a crash.

    Insurance rates are great, repairs are cheap as dirt, and 300-400K miles isn't uncommon before they die. And they are great in winter - just ignore any snow under about a foot.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    It's also almost double his top-end price range.

    I'm just not sure why we're suggesting models that aren't appropriate for his stated wants & budget.

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  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    edited April 2011
    Well, he did say $15K and sometimes you can get factory financing rates at the end of the year for $20K that are comparable to a used car loan for $15-16K. Just something to think about if he's willing to wait until the new model year is out. Considering that it comes with a warranty and this would serve as his first and second vehicle, since there's no reason to get rid of it in 2-3 years like a typical "first car", this might actually save him some money if he keeps it for 8-10 years. It will also break down less and be less of a headache.

    Your first car should be something simple as a rock and cheap to fix or new and make the most out of the warranty period. I did a search a while back for a similar car for myself - what is cheap as dirt and a fun car to drive? The Mustang made the short list as year-end base models can squeak in at just under $20K.

    I'd still recommend the Tacoma though. He could drive it for three years and sell it for $9K in a week to some off-roader. Something like $1K a year in depreciation, if that.
  • jatanjatan Member Posts: 92
    Stay away from the Maxima -- the 04-06 auto transmission will give you problems sooner or later and also the 04-08 engine's timing chain tensioners have a crappy design so both of those are costly repairs (check out forums.maxima.org and look around there) -- look for clean 02-03's they should be less problematic or an 07+

    I had a 95 Maxima for my first car (my dad bought it in 2003) and I traded that in for an 07 Maxima late 2009. The 07 has been running fine *knock on wood* and it has the CVT auto transmission which is ok (Nissan warranties it for 10yr/120k miles) and so far the timing chain tensioners havent given me a problem (looking to get a manual car in a year or so, will trade the car in then). The gas mileage is terrible -- 14-16mpg with winter gas, 15-17mpg with summer gas (mostly city driving with some highway)

    The 07+ Altima also has a CVT trans (warranty til 10yr/120k mi) but it was the first yr redesign so it might have more rattles than a newer one, but havent looked into them much to see what common problems they have (check out nissanclub.com/forums and look around there before buying)

    The Camry seems clean (not sure if they have any engine/trans problems) -- look around on toyotanation.com

    I also remember seeing 1 or 2 good sellers on eBay Motors from OH with really good feedback a couple months back so also look around on there for cars

    Whatever car you buy make sure you get insurance quotes first so you know how much it'll be and also make sure you leave some money on the side incase the car does need repairs/maintenance -- take someone with you who knows a lil about cars and have them drive it to make sure it feels fine (pick up/handling/braking) and also check the tires to see how much tread is left
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Well, he did say $15K...

    Actually, he made it very clear: "If someone can give me advise among above listed camry and maxima, it would be great." He didn't say, "I have $15k, what should I buy?"

    It cracks me up how some people come here asking for advice on two or more specific cars and then they hear about vehicles that are vastly different from what they want.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    edited April 2011
    Well, "I have 15K" almost always means "I can afford/have a loan limit of 15K for a used car". (ie - not cash) Used car rates are usually 2-3% higher than new car rates (7-9%+ isn't uncommon), and Ford and GM are known to give 0% on previous year cars. The difference in payments is only a few dollars more for the new car after you factor in repairs and upkeep on a 7-10 year old car.

    You want your first car to be new and serve as your second or third car OR it needs to be 2-4K and dirt cheap. 12-15K is asking to eat a ton of money in repairs, depreciation, and cost to get another car in a few years. Anything that's 10 years old, he won;'t want to drive more than 3-5 years, and that means he loses a lot of money every time he trades.

    In simple math - 15K(inc tax) - 8K in depreciation in four more years. Cost is $19K(~$4K in interest) plus $4K in repairs and upkeep(transmission somewhere around the 10-12 yr mark). Total loan and repair cost over 4 years is $23,000 - 7K sale price. 16K to own for 4 years. About $333 a month. Not too terrible, actually.
    Note: loan payments run about $395 a month/48 months plus ~$100 in repairs.

    $22K for a new car at 0% financing. Keep for 4 years. $25K including tax plus $1K in repairs(if that). $26K over 4 years. Sell for $15K. $11K loan and repairs cost(!) That covers the extra cost of insurance and registration for the new car and then some. But obviously you don't keep the new car for just 4 years. You keep it for *8*. Then you sell it for $8K. Add another $3K in upkeep. Net cost is 29K - 8K, or $21K for 8 years. About $220 a month.
    Note - loan payments run about $520 a month/48 months plus nearly nothing in repairs.

    It looks deceiving - but the secondary costs (repairs grow faster on the used car) and the depreciation hit you hard on the used car in this case, mostly because of the interest you are eating on the used car loan vs none on the new car. I calculate that you'd still come out slightly ahead at even 2.9% on the new car. Because, remember, you'll need another "used" car in 4 years which repeats the process. Buying new saves you an entire car loan cycle, which is where your cost savings comes in.

    Also, over time, the new car will be costing you $0 a month to the bank since the initial payments will be over in 48 months on both loans. You pay more now and less later, which is better. You've ended up slightly ahead at 4 years and the rest is gravy - keep it as long as you need or want to without payments every month. This gives you more mobility with your money/cash flow as well as a better credit rating due to a paid off loan and no debt load from a car loan.
    EDIT - AND, at the end of the 8 years, your new car is merely as old as the used car when you just got it. If you want parity, you'd keep your new car to 12 years! Then the math gets crazy as you've skipped *two* car loans.

    Given all of that, you'd obviously chose the new car that's more reliable and doesn't have someone else's farts and funk in it. :P
  • int64int64 Member Posts: 19
    M really thankfuL to all of u guys.
    Looks like I will be going for campy if I am not able to find something in that range.

    Maxima and altimas are no-no as they are either out of range or close to my upper range. As few people suggested that I should keep some money aside as m buying as used vehicle. Camry sounds a better option. Fits within price range and will have some money saved for unusual scenarios too.

    I wish I can find a altima 2007 for that price with low miles(wishful thinking) but prices in Ohio are higher. I was looking for altima in NY and there are a lot of good cars available for cheap prices. Anyway I will keep u guys posted whatever it wud be.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Well, do at least run the numbers against the used car versus a similar new car like I suggested above. If you can absorb the initially higher monthly payments for a few years, you can end up way ahead if you keep the new car for 8-12 years vs 4 or so for the used one(you won't want a 13-14 year old Camry any more, trust me).

    Your bank will help you here - it's their job to make your money work best for you and they'll do a better job than I can do here.

    Also, a lease might be even cheaper per month. When I see an Accord at $250 a month with $0 down, that's hard to wrap my brain around. A used car loan will run that much in payments and interest, and you're stuck with repairs on the old car vs none on the new. One of these "we're dying for money" leases that the manufacturers are offering right now might be better still.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Well, "I have 15K" almost always means "I can afford/have a loan limit of 15K for a used car"

    Again, that is not what the OP said... nor is it what he meant. In fact, in his second post, he said, "I don't want to spend more than 12000." In his first post, he asked for help with specific vehicles and listed the prices.

    You can make all the arguments you want about buying a new car but if that isn't what someone wants, it really doesn't matter... especially after they make it very clear.

    Finally, (and I do mean "finally") I have never heard one financial expert say that it made more economical sense to buy new. They always stress buying used. Not that I listen.... I haven't bought used since I bought my first car in 1976. ;)

    Good luck, int64. Let us know how it turns out.
  • int64int64 Member Posts: 19
    Loan is not an option for me at this moment. So I won't be able to spend more than what I have. I am in new haven for a visit right now and here I am getting a 2008 altima with 7k miles for 13500 (may be less, I yacht bargained). Initially I was thinking to buy this one and drive to Ohio and transfer title. The deal is very good. But I am not comfortable spending that kind of money
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    One thing you might consider to stay within budget is to expand your search beyond Toyotas and Nissans, which tend to have higher resale values, to some comparable cars with lower resale values. Still good reliable cars, but less money. Examples are 2001+ Elantras (comparable interior volume to the Maxima, but compact outside and much lower price) and 2006+ Sonatas, and 2006.5+ Optimas. You should be able to find some of these well below $10k, with low miles and maybe even some of the five-year bumper-to-bumper warranty left.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    13.5 for a 2008 is essentially getting a new CPO vehicle. You should do well with this. Though, the CVT does take some getting used to - I personally can't stand it myself.
  • int64int64 Member Posts: 19
    Hi,

    I finally made my decision and bought the 2002 camry. I hope it will prove to be a good decision. Will keep you guys posted.
    Thanks
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Congrats! You've got lots of miles left in that car and it should be very reliable. Good choice for a first car.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    Congratulations! You're welcome to drop by the Camry discussions here if you need any help or just want to chat with other owners.

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  • int64int64 Member Posts: 19
    Thanks guys,

    I need more help. The car has some breaking issues and when i bought the car. I took it to MIDAS for inspection. My friend was with me and according to him, they did not do a very good job to inspect it Anyway, according to them the rear brake rotors have some problem and needs to be replaced (may be read brake pads too). The cost will be around $300. I have been looking at some stuff online to check it, and looks like its not a big deal to change rotors, I want to give it a try myself. as the Machenic will charge me too much. Is there anyway you guys can help me? I want to know what kins tools and what size of tools i will need to change Rear Rotors, How to know If i really need to change rear rotors and brake pads? and if possible please share some vedio article about ho to do it, And which brand should i use for as rotors and pads?
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Well, you will need some chocks, and a heavy duty floor jack (same type of 60lb+ monster they use at the tire store ) . The entire wheel assembly has to be off the ground and then you have to PRAY that the bolts aren't rusted and seized together.

    Note - this equipment will likely run you $75-$100 after tax, so it's not really saving you a ton of money to DIY in this case - though if you have a mind to do *future* repairs, you'll be ready.

    Other than that, though, it's pretty straight-forward. Also, since you'll have the wheels and rotors off, you might consider attempting to fix the CV joints/boots if they need replacing.

    Lastly, just get new rotors. Resurfacing costs as much as a new one at that age (after 10 years, the originals are paper-thin or warped, trust me on this). After-market rotors are fine as well, to save some money. New brakes is one of the first things I do with almost every car I purchase as it's incredibly stupid not to have good brakes and tires considering a small ding these days can cost more than a thousand to fix. Or cost your insurance company a ton of money if it's your fault.

    That 20% better braking and handling might be what saves you from a lot of problems down the road.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    $300 for new rear rotors and pads? Hell, let them have at it!
    It is going to cost you ~$150 for the parts alone from partsgeek.com. Then, as mentioned above, you may have some tools to buy.

    only reason to do it yourself is if you WANT to do it yourself purely for your satisfaction. It is not going to save you much money at all.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jykkjykk Member Posts: 1
    What's a good OTD price on IS250 AWD with and w/o nav in the DC, Maryland, and VA area?

    Thx!!
  • samm43samm43 Member Posts: 195
    The floor jack is excessive, even if it is safer, it too still should be blocked as it a hydraulic device. I recommend using the jack that came with the car, BUT, only if you are prepared to block it well with good solid wood blocking built up to at least 6x6 size. (if you don't have a 6x6, then use 2x6 pcs high enough) I would use pieces no shorter than one foot, and longer is better. Obviously this should be done on a cement floor surface. Make sure where you block is under the suspended wheel assembly somewhere, that is loaded under the cars springs or struts. (not under some other part of the car that would allow the wheel assembly to drop under spring extension if the jack area slips or fails. I recommend lowering the jack onto your blocking to avoid this). Do not let blocking contact light areas like anti-sway arms or suspension links etc. I am pointing out the obvious here in places just to be safe.

    Your rear rotor may also house the rear emergency brake application which may be brake shoes that operate inside the hub assembly of the rotor. If so, you may not find these available aftermarket. And even if you do, I would not pick the cheapest Made in China rotors as they are notably thinner and do have inferior metal content that some will warp right from brand new on the first heavy brake application. The very best rotor is also not needed. I would go middle of the road in cost, just make sure they aren't charging you middle road prices but delivering the cheap rotors.

    As for pads, I tend to use soft material pads that do not last as long but are easier on the rotors. I especially recommend this if your rotors house the parking brake drum, because they are very expensive rotors, and new pads are cheaper and easier to replace next time around. This also applies more to a rear axle as it does not do much braking compared to the front, and soft pad material, while easier on the rotors, some do not grip as hard as ones with more metal content.

    If you have never done any mechanical work like this before, I highly recommend having a friend or neighbor over that is familiar with the process on your first time. As for the park brake bits, I would make a written diagram and carefully mark every piece and the order and placement that you removed so you can reverse your steps properly.

    In preparation for the job, aside from some obvious things you will need, don't forget to get some never-seize type compound which your helper will be able to show you where it goes. (one place is the adjusting screw assembly that extends the shoes for the proper parking brake adjustment, and another are the pins that hold the caliper pads and caliper slide pins).

    Have you considered using laws in place (depending on your state) that would have that shop do this work for free now, since they should not have certified this car with poor brakes in the first place? In most states there is a time and mileage limit for a claim to be filed.

    Sam
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Welcome, jykk. You might have better luck browsing/posting in the Lexus IS 250/350 forum.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    Thanks, tallman1!
    For doing a great substitute hosting job, you can pick any one of my posts to delete. :)

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  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    You can block it up and use the normal included car jack, but most of them won't have the proper stability or length to do the job very well. Wrenching on bolts is always problematic and it's kind of foolish to not have a good floor jack anyways considering the time and effort it saves over the years.

    A dealer-bought car (certified aside, even!), OTOH, is required by law to have properly working basic safety systems. ABS/brakes/seat belts/air bags - al have to work properly. And they know it. Don't let them pull a fast one on you considering what you paid them.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    you can pick any one of my posts to delete.

    Oh I am banking that one... could come in handy if you ever pick on my grammar... or use of ellipses... or (heaven forbid) something I should post. :shades:
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    So I bought the Impala. It's a 2007 with 83,000 miles and in great shape. It is still under Chevy's 5 year 100k power train warranty. So after cleaning it up, adding a spoiler, new wheels and tires, window tint, polished exhaust tips, a center console, and black surround headlights I'm still under $6000! Fuel economy is fine, it has cylinder deactivation but doesn't use it much above 65 mph, still getting over 21 around town and 28 on the interstate. Handling is not soggy at all, maybe that's the police 9C1 package but it's very sure footed especially now with the 18" wheels. Best thing my daughter and her future husband love it but I don't want to hand over the keys now! Here is the finished product;
    http://www.impalaforums.com/garage-image-5905-1303179990.jpg
  • int64int64 Member Posts: 19
    Regarding this "Have you considered using laws in place (depending on your state) that would have that shop do this work for free now, since they should not have certified this car with poor brakes in the first place? In most states there is a time and mileage limit for a claim to be filed.
    "

    I am not sure if i can do this, becouse they told me that the rotors needs to be changed, but they did not give me an exact cost about how much it will cost. They gave me a rough idea that it would be arround $300. Nothing else was mentioned by them. So i assume if something more is wrong. then i can look after the Law option. Thanks for your detailed post. I will try to ask my neighbour If they are willing to help me.
  • int64int64 Member Posts: 19
    I bought it from a private party.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Ah. Then it's your car to deal with. Older cars have issues like this but it's usually not a problem thereafter. If the original rotors lasted this long, a replacement set won't be an issue for probably as long as you own the car.
  • int64int64 Member Posts: 19
    HI all,

    I took my car to NTB and got it inspected. They said, its not the brake rotors, its the brake pads which needs to be changed. He said my rotor are 4.60 and they are at 4.13 right now. So it can still count on them for an year or something.

    He gave me a cost of $335 and he came down to $285. after i told him his cost was too high. He said he gonna use Adaptive One brake pads and going to change brake fluide also. As it shoul be changed every 3 years.

    I think even $285 is pricy. I am thinking to buy adaptive brake pads and some good fluide Is some local machenic will do it for a labour of arround $100. Is it a good idea to do that?
  • jatanjatan Member Posts: 92
    Seems expensive to me

    Put your address in google maps and then search nearby for auto repair -- try to find shops with good reviews (you can also check yelp.com but google displays reviews from multiple places including yelp)
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    The only time you replace brake fluid is when you have to. ie - when you replace half of the entire brakes lines and system.

    Get the pads yourself at the local auto parts store. Get a local mechanic to install them. It should cost 2 hours of labor, tops.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    The only time you replace brake fluid is when you have to. ie - when you replace half of the entire brakes lines and system.


    Have to disagree with this... brake fluid is hygroscopic... It should be replaced every two years..

    Not that I had the same car.... but, when I checked prices for new pads on all four wheels for my Honda CR-V, a couple years ago.... the price was pretty uniform, and right around $300 (+/-$25).. I checked dealers, local tire shops, Car-X, etc...

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    edited April 2011
    I'm with kyfdx. You absolutely have to change the fluid periodically. How often, however, is up for debate. My volvo was VERY particular about having it changed every 30k before the pedal would just go to mush. I am way overdue on the wife's saab, and I can feel it.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Even then, flushing out the brake system is a few minute job. It shouldn't cost you $300-$400 for the rear brakes. That's just silly.(and that mechanic will find himself out of a job soon enough with those prices)

    Find a local and hungrier mechanic who works for closer to $50-$60 an hour.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    edited April 2011
    No, it shouldn't. But ~$100 is typical. So figure $100 for that and $100 for 1 hour labor charge on the pads. So that's 2 bills plus the cost of the pads. So I don't think the guy is way off base at $285, to be honest.

    Could you get a set of pads for $30? Sure. And then you buy some fluid for another $15. Then find a shop with a lower rate ... say $90/hour (I don't know any who are $50-60, but maybe that's a regional thing)... and they charge you 1.5 hours labor for $135. So now you are down to $180 plus tax, but you've done a good bit of legwork to get there.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • sjack1sjack1 Member Posts: 4
    edited April 2011
    I am stuck. I cannot decide between the two. Let me give you some background. I currently drive a 2000 Accord that I purchased new that has 240k miles on it. Best car ever imho. It has been a real blessing to me considering all of the repair issues I had with my other cars. I'd drive it until the wheels fell off but I promised my niece a car and she said she'd take this one and I guess it's time to get another car anyway.

    I have test driven both cars. I'm used to an Accord so it has the edge there. It also has lower insurance costs, I can get .9% financing for 60 months. The Sonata is a bit fancier looking and has a few more bells and whistles (the key thing, better stereo, etc.) and offers 2.9% financing. However, it also has a fantastic warranty 100k on the power train and 60k for non wear items compared to the Accords 72k/36k warranty. And that is a very large consideration for me. For the past 11 years I've only had to pay for regular maintenance. A few weeks ago I paid $500 for various repairs (oil leaks, hose leaks) and that is the most I have paid at one time for repairing this car. I want something that is going to last and not break down.

    I thought this was going to be simple; I was going to buy an Accord and that was that. However I am hearing people say that the Accord has slipped in reliability and that the car I have now is a better car than the new Accords. I find it hard to believe that Honda has slipped on quality but I have heard nothing but good things about the Sonata. I want a car I can keep for many years and not have to worry about repairs. Surprisingly, I can get both cars for about 23,600 plus ttl, so the Sonata will cost a bit more (2.9% vs .9% and about 150 extra a year for insurance), but if it saves me money in the long run on repairs it will be worth it. Hate to turn my back on the Accord though, after having had such a great experience with the one I have now.

    What do you guys think? And response would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to purchase soon. :confuse:
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    You have an 11 year old car with 240k miles on it and you are complaining that you had to spend $500 on various repairs??

    How has your Accord done overall in reliability? Did you have a lot of problems with it over its lifetime, i.e. defects vs. just parts wearing out, as they do on an old car with lots of miles on it?

    IMO you should not base your decision only on warranty. Both the Accord and Sonata are likely to be reliable. If warranty is a big deal for you, you can get a Honda extended warranty. You say you keep cars for a long time. So buy the car that you think you will enjoy driving more, vs. the one with a longer warranty.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    No, he's not complaining! He (or she) said that's the most he's ever had to spend in repairs - meaning that's a GOOD thing. If you re-read the whole post, he's saying he'd like something just as reliable as this one has been.

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  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    One other thing to consider is that this generation of Accord has been around since 08 so a lot of the bugs have been worked out. Although you want to play the odds, every manufacturer will have a lemon on occasion so there still won't be any guarantees on reliability.

    You've had a great experience with your old Honda but you were open enough to look at other cars so you're not going into this blindly. When people talk about Hyundai these days, they usually talk about how much more you get for the price. It is interesting that the Accord is going to be cheaper up front than the Sonata.

    I'm a fan of loyalty if a company serves you well in the past. If cost per year is better going into the deal, that could pay for any repairs that come along... and if none do, you are money ahead. As Backy said, if the warranty is a huge concern, you can use the money you save on an extended warranty that you can get online. (Personally, I don't think you need to do that.)

    Of course, this all assumes that you liked them equally when you did the test drives and that any additional bells and whistles on the Sonata are no big deal to you.

    Good luck and let us know what you decide.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    And if you re-read my entire post, I am saying he should do just that. :)
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    edited April 2011
    Actually, though, the current generation "Accord" is actually a model down from the Accord that's currently sold in Japan. They re-badge the Japanese Accord as the Acura TSX here in the U.S. So, if you want the same quality as the last generation Accord, you actually need to get a TSX.

    I'd recommend a 1 year old CPO TSX for the same price as a new Accord EX.

    * An Accord EX-L is $23,700 for the 4 cylinder model, and $25,600 for the V6. (truecar)
    * A 2010 CPO TSX with under 20K on it is $25K/27K(4cyl/6 cyl)
    The difference in first year registration and insurance fees will essentially make it a wash, since we're talking about a $1300-1400 difference. Actually, if you factor in depreciation and the fact that it's a whole trim level up, it's a clear win of a couple of thousand dollars in your favor of you intend to keep it for as many years as you did your last car.

    Just buy the *real* Accord and enjoy :)
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    So, if you want the same quality as the last generation Accord, you actually need to get a TSX.

    Considering that this was the same situation in the last generation of the Accord, this doesn't make much sense. The "Japanese Accord" was the TSX then too.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Not exactly.

    They refreshed the Accord in Japan. This is the same model that they sell in the U.S. as the TSX.

    The old TSX was based upon an Accord as well.

    The current U.S. Accord is based upon an entirely different car a model down from the current Accord in Japan. For such a small price difference, it's penny wise and pound foolish to not get the CPO TSX instead. Because it's a step up from the previous generation Accord as you'd expect (and much nicer overall, as well)
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,952
    Just remember, Acura's call for premium fuel so be prepared. Not a big deal for some...but a conssideration for others!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    20 cents a gallon out of $4-$5 a gallon isn't worth really contemplating, to be honest.
  • sjack1sjack1 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for all of the responses. I think Acura is a great car but It's out of my price range and I don't want to buy a used car. My choice comes down to either the Accord or the Sonata. The fact that the current Accords are not considered as good a car as the earlier generations is a very real concern. I'm still stuck now but I do appreciate the responses.
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