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What Car is Right For Me? Help Me Choose!

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Comments

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Owning a GTO and driving it with a light foot is something of an oxymoron, isn't it? :surprise:

    BTW, the EPA fuel economy rating of the 2004 GTO with MT is only 19 mpg combined (16/26).
  • biker4biker4 Member Posts: 746
    edited June 2011
    It's basically a fancied-up Civic.

    That is like saying the IS is a fancied up Corolla. :mad:
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Technically, a fancied-up 1983 Corolla... before it went to FWD. ;)
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    edited June 2011
    Well, that's after the EPA decided to apply its one size fits all formula to older ratings. The original sticker said 17/29. We all know that with cruise control on, you can get slightly over the EPA highway ratings. From what people are reporting, it gets 1mpg or so less overall MPG as a typical large sedan like a Camry V6 or Buick.

    The reason is that the 6th gear is a really high overdrive. 65mph is close to 1700-1800rpm. If you are patient and slowly let rev up and down in 6th, you'll get very good MPG. Well, relatively speaking, that is. ;)

    The IS300 gets about the same MPG combined.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Yes, it does. Yet another reason to go for the TSX... 23 mpg EPA combined, under the new scale. 5 mpg (28%) better than the IS300. In these days of $4 a gallon gas, that's a significant difference.

    Let me know the next time you see a GTO driver "slowly let rev up and down". ;)
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Well with 300HP and about the same in lb-ft of torque, only idiots hammer the gas pedal in city traffic. With a manual and a lead foot, I can make a Civic get 15mpg city as well.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Only if you siphon gas out of it regularly. :P Not even the racer boys at C/D can make a Civic get only 15 mpg, and they have pedal to the metal constantly.
  • fujisfujis Member Posts: 27
    between a front-wheel driving and rear-wheel driving car?

    Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    There really is no difference on dry roads up to 7/10ths the limit.

    Under low traction conditions, FWD will pull the car along, sometimes spinning the tire(s) because the weight is shifting away from the wheels with power, while RWD pushes and occassionally tries to force the rear of the car to pass the front of it.

    Under racing conditions, a FWD setup forces the front tires to perform both turning duties and powering duties, thereby limiting traction in either capacity. With RWD, the fronts and rears are doing their own thing and you can usually use the throttle to aid in steering the car, but it also means you can't get on the gas as soon as you can FWD.

    So they both have their pluses and minuses, as you can see. Most enthusiasts prefer RWD for the added fun factor.

    Of course, each car is different and each person has their own anecdotal experiences, but I think what I've stated is a fair assessment for the general question.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • tenpin288tenpin288 Member Posts: 804
    Here's a link to a fairly good explanation...

    FWD vs RWD
  • fujisfujis Member Posts: 27
    Thank you!
  • mr_gonemr_gone Member Posts: 50
    I'd qualify the comments in that link by saying the author is assuming the driving conditions to be something other than what people experience in snow-heavy climates. Even with traction control, a rear-wheel drive car is not going to climb a snow-covered hill as well as a front-drive or all-wheel drive. And having more horsepower won't help the matter, either!
  • tenpin288tenpin288 Member Posts: 804
    Having driven rwd cars in snow many moons ago, I would have to say that properly equipped with good studded snow tires, a rwd car can get around just fine in the winter, even here in the snow belt of Western PA. It's all in using the proper equipment and proper technique.
  • techstudenttechstudent Member Posts: 2
    Hey. I'm looking at a Nissan Altima under $16,000 after negotiation. From research this looks like 2010s are possible as well as 09 Hybrids. I'm looking at holding onto this car for about 8 years. I have a few questions.

    Do hybrid repair costs really make that big of a difference? Are the changes in 1 year to another a big difference? Enough to make me choose the 2010? Are the features in the SL class really worth it? Opinions and other thoughts? I don't know that much since this is my first car.

    I'm also looking at a Toyota Camry and trying to weigh the options. I like the Altima the best, but I don't know if reliability wise and such if it would be the way to go. Thanks for your help!
  • biker4biker4 Member Posts: 746
    If you are looking for a long term car stay away from hybrids. Nissan cancelled the MY12 Altima hybrid - what does that tell you?

    Get a regular Altima - about 3 years old with low miles - that should last you another 8 years without any major work needing to be done.
  • mjl0690mjl0690 Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, I am needing to buy a used car, and I am looking for some different opinions on the mileage difference and price. Obviously I can not tell too much from looking online, but is the difference in price worth the difference in mileage here?

    I am thinking on trekking out to Asheville to pick up a used car ( Ford Focus), but I am unsure if the extra money is worth it for the newer model.
    http://www.siskford.com/102/2011-Ford-Focus.html
    http://www.siskford.com/67/2010-Ford-Focus.html

    I am no expert in this area so any advice would be appreciated. I don't have much of a clue when it comes to buying cars.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    I didn't look at the details, but if they are equipped the same, then a year newer and 18k miles less for $2k is the better deal.

    However, who knows where you'd be after negotiations. The typical spread I see going from one year to the next is 15k miles and $2500 difference.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi Techstudent:

    Stay away from Hybrid vehicles! ---- I own two non-hybrid vehicles, (a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE V6 and a 2010 Chevrolet Malibu 4 cylinder LTZ.) -------- When I purchased the Camry new, I looked at the Toyota Hybrid. ----- Before I made the purchase, --- I did some research about Hybrid vehicles, and found that there was some concerns about "HIGH EMF in the passenger compartment," (similar to living under power lines on land.) ----- While the manufacturers do not admit that there is a problem, some owners claim that they get sick when driving in their vehicles. ----- I am NOT a fan of Nissan vehicles because they have a CVT transmission. I prefer a 5 or 6 speed transmission. -------- Whatever vehicle you purchase, be sure to put a "factory top of the line extended warranty" on the vehicle. ------ If you purchase a Nissan purchase it from a Nissan dealer. ---- If you purchase a Toyota purchase it from a Toyota dealer. ---- If you purchase a Honda purchase it from a Honda dealer. --- This will allow you to purchase a manufacturer's extended warranty and get factory service if problems arise. ----- (DO NOT PURCHASE AFTER MARKET WARRANTIES!) ----- The quality of the dealer is a major concern. When I shop for a vehicle, I look at the dealer first, then I look at the vehicle. I ask the sales person to show me the service department BEFORE I talk about a vehicle! If I DO NOT like what I see in the service department, I politely walk! ------------- Best regards. ---- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • bigbuck41bigbuck41 Member Posts: 1
    i am looking at purchasing a new or certified car..right now i have neg.2008 camry for 15000.00 it has 30,000 miles.i have also negotiated a nissan altima 2008,for about 16000.00.i have read all kinds of horror stories on these vehicles,i went to honda and also i am looking at a chevy impala or malibu...i can use any input
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi Bigbuck41:

    After reading your posting, ----- I would rate the Used Vehicle in the following order:

    1.) Honda
    2.) Toyota
    3.) Malibu

    I am not a big fan of Nissan Vehicles!

    Purchase a used Honda from a Honda dealer, a used Toyota from a Toyota dealer, and a used Malibu from a Chevrolet dealer. ---- Reason; ---- you can then put a maximum factory extended warranty on the vehicle to cover yourself for big repairs! ----- Best regards. ----------- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    I'd recommend a 2008 Pontiac G8. It's a far better car than the Impala or Malibu, but doesn't carry the price premium of the CTS. Same suspension and engine as a CTS, though, and virtually the same performance (though is a bit larger and heavier).

    If you can wait until the new year/models in September, you can get one for about 15-16K.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The new Pontiac models ?? :confuse:
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    edited June 2011
    No, obviously until GM has the 2012 models out in about 2-3 months (brand doesn't matter at all). This will make the used and CPO values of ALL GM 2008 cars drop by another 10-15%. And it'll be right in his price range by then.

    It's unwise to ever buy a car in the middle of summer. You always wait until the end of the model year.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    With all the folks going after 2008 GTOs, based on your frequent recommendations, I could see their prices going UP. ;) There aren't that many of them out there.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Well, 4 years old IS the sweet spot where off-lease cars start to come in.

    And it is a great car. I especially love the premium radio in it (not the nav model, mind you). By far the best factory radio I've ever used.
  • mr_gonemr_gone Member Posts: 50
    The "many moons ago" phrase in your post is telling: Studded snow tires have been illegal in most states for decades.
  • tenpin288tenpin288 Member Posts: 804
    not here in PA, although they are restricted to winter months only.
  • dad222to0dad222to0 Member Posts: 1
    Whatever Dad wants will be the best :)
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    edited June 2011
    For a college student's first car, you want cheap, reliable, can carry a lot of stuff, and gets good gas mileage.

    The optimal "car" is actually a small pickup truck or similar. Well, at least in theory. That is to say, you want something that is dead simple to fix, cheap to operate, and costs maybe 8K, at most. Expect it to get dinged, bashed, and in several accidents as well. Bonus points if it's tough enough to survive all of this and still keep running.

    The last thing that you want to do is to get a 15K sedan. A small SUV is probably your best bet. I'd recommend something like a RAV-4 or similar. Small, and works. Most of these SUVs also have part-time 4wd, which is a bonus in bad weather. They can haul stuff and most of them are powered by 4 cylinder Japanese engines which are bulletproof.

    If you can get one with manual, do it. Why? It's a good skill to learn, but it also lowers the repair bills. It also requires far more concentration, so they are less likely to get into trouble or accidents. ie - you can't really shift gears and text at the same time. Or eat a burger. And it gets better gas mileage.

    I'd recommend a 2001-2005 Rav4 with manual and 4WD. The 2004 model has a better engine and features, though, but at $12-15K, it's still too expensive. A 2001 would be best, as it's 4K less, and that buys a lot of repairs.

    http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listin- - gId=68920699
    Don't worry about the mileage. The engine is good for 200-250K before needing major work.

    Expect to put about $1300 or so into repairs and upkeep and so on when you buy it, but it should be fine for several years. For 8K, you can save a lot of money, and it's a win-win for your child. It can handle snow and bad weather, hauls everything they need, and gets over 30mpg highway.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Even though I disagree with your college student car recommendation, the OP was asking for help between an Altima and Camry and had some hybrid questions.

    He/she didn't ask about a truck or SUV.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Both the Altima and Camry are terrible choices. The Altima has reliability issues and the CVT is a PITA to repair if it breaks. The Camry is good, but the big deal with both is that they are too expensive, can't haul anything, and are large. This means they are harder to drive and get worse MPG, especially since the student will probably spend most of their time in city driving around the campus.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    A Camry or Altima would be harder to drive than a truck or SUV?? And get worse mileage?

    For students going a few hundred miles away to college, they may spend more time on the highway than driving around town... unless they live way off campus and have to drive every day. If living in a dorm or Greek house, they may not be driving much at all.

    Of course, that still doesn't mean the OP is making a "terrible choice".
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    I did recommend a very small SUV with a manual transmission and a 2.0L engine. It can easily get over 30mpg as a result. And it's better than a typical car for a student.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Altimas (and Camrys) are available with manual transmissions also... so no CVT issue there. And you'd be surprised how much college "stuff" a mid-sized sedan can hold. I have some experience with that with two sons I have helped get to/from college over the years. Didn't need an SUV to haul all their gear.

    A 2004 Camry I4, for example, is EPA rated 11% better on the highway than a 2004 RAV-4 2WD (both with sticks). With gas prices as they are, that can be significant for a college student. But if there were an RAV-4 available for a lot less money than a Camry of the same year, that might be a good bet.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    I guess they could get a manual Camry, but then you have to wonder if it's the best use of your money, since cars with high resale value are the worst ones to buy used. You want something reliable that depreciates quickly.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    That wouldn't be a Toyota, then. Something like a 2006 Sonata I4 would be a better bet--and roomier than a Camry or Altima. Mid-30s mpg on the highway (real world) and full-sized interior volume, yet mid-sized outside.
  • techstudenttechstudent Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for all the advice! I am choosing between those two because I don't actually have that much stuff to haul. I will be making a lot of money soon with a Co-Op that I have. So I figured that I would buy a car that would last me a while so that I could use my future finances to invest in other things right out of college. Thus, I would have a solid salary when I would need to buy a new car.

    According to Consumer Reports the safest/most reliable are Toyotas, Hondas, and Nissans. My dad has an Accord and for some reason I can't stand the car. That's why that's not included. Thus the Altima and Camry are two cars that last.

    I was wondering if there is any government aid for a student buying a car? I would love to cut down my expenses on the front end because I'm making about 70k less than I would when I start my job.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    edited July 2011
    I was wondering if there is any government aid for a student buying a car?

    Yes, I think the program is called Obamacar.

    Or maybe I'm confusing it with something else...
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Consumer Reports is actually a terrible place to go for advice on almost anything as their target audience is Midwestern retired people and middle-class worker drone families.

    They love cars like the Camry because they are the best Vanilla you can get. But the thing is, both the Camry and the Altima are less than perfect lately and there are better options that cost far less money. Remember, that the years you are looking at for the Camry are exactly when the whole acceleration issue was affecting them. Also, the Altima is.. Well, I've never seen one that's 5 years old that isn't squeaking or rattling from a half dozen places. It feels like a giant version of a Sentra. I'd rate the Altima overall to be nearly identical in driving and interior quality to the Hyundai Sonata. Not bad, mind you, but a far cry from a better car.

    If you want cheap to fix and reliable, and good value for your money, that means you need something like a Civic with a manual gearbox. I'd say the Fit, but it's too small, really. The optimal choice, then, is the Toyota Matrix. But, you don't want one as it's too expensive. The smart person saves 2K and gets the same vehicle with the Pontiac badge on it.(same assembly line, different badges and exterior trim)

    You can get a used Pontiac Vibe for very little money, and it'll be a better choice by far than either of those two. Because you WILL need to haul furniture you find or some friend's amp to a gig or a keg or whatever and you'll fall in love with a usable cargo area really quickly. I also like that the Vibe/Matrix also have a perfectly flat cargo floor that's a lot larger and more usable than the Fit. It also can be had with AWD if that matters.

    Also, the Matrix/Vibe appears to be unaffected by the Toyota issues as well, since it was a joint GM/Toyota venture and a lot of parts are U.S. sourced.

    http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=c&car_id=302110505
    Here's a perfect example. It'll make it to 200K miles, no problem. And, yes, you want manual as it's at least 2 seconds faster than the automatic in normal driving.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The only problem with a Matrix/Vibe lasting for 200k miles is, you'd need to drive it for 200k miles. :P
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    A reporter seeks to interview someone on how parents factor carpooling into their car choices. Does the parent with the big car unfairly do the most of the driving? Are the five-passenger car parents left out of carpools? Do you ever wish you had something bigger than/smaller than what you have? Does the price of gas or environmental concerns compete with the need for space? Please email pr@edmunds.com no later than Tuesday, July 12, 2011 with your daytime contact information if you care to share your story.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    Heh. My original advice was to get a small SUV or pickup with a 4 cylinder engine in it. Basically a previous generation Tacoma with 4x4 and stick is all you'll need in a truck, and we already went over small SUVs.

    If you've never had a vehicle with real cargo space before, you'll quickly realize how fast you get addicted to it. :)

    Shoot, not having to bring a U-Haul is worth it. All of my stuff in college would have fit into my old 4Runner.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Does a Grand Caravan or Town & Country have enough "real cargo space" for you? They did for me. So did my MPV. But I don't need that much cargo space any more.

    It's just that the current Matrix/Vibe are POS cars, perfect examples of how Toyota's quality is declining. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone, unless I dislike them intensely. I'd take an early-2000s RAV-4 over one of those any day.
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738
    My initial recommendation based upon the various factors *was* actually an early 2000s RAV4 :)
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    edited July 2011
    As I have some experience with first cars for kids, I got my kids a truck-based SUV for their first car. This lasted them a while. Now they are driving a Ford and Subaru.

    If I had to do it again, I would have gotten them a Corolla, with gas at almost $4 gallon I would go for the economy. Cheap, reliable and sips gas. I don't care if it's not cool, if I'm paying for it it's my choice. :)
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    Even though this is an old post, isn't being safe on the road in winter not getting stuck in a snow drift in the middle of an intersection?

    For someone living in LA you clearly have a very good theoretical view of 4wd/awd systems. It's the practical aspect that has be uh, strengthened.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    I agree the Altima is a bad choice, however I would recommend the Camry in a heartbeat. Overall reliable, cheap to maintain, frugal with gas, inexpensive to insure. Overall it's a good bet.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Why do you think I specifically said "early 2000s RAV-4"? But a Matrix/Vibe... no way. Lots of other good hatches out there if a hatch is what someone wants. Just had the (dis)pleasure of driving a 2011 Corolla rental (cousin of the Matrix/Vibe) for the past day... ouch.
  • oldburbnewcx9oldburbnewcx9 Member Posts: 53
    I think the perfect car (not SUV/Truck/CUV) is a hatchback. Usually plenty of room to move belongings isn usually a small car for good gas milage. My solution to this for my daughter was a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT hatchback. Inexpensive to purchase, own and operate.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    edited July 2011
    I love that design. Had two of that generation, a 2001 sedan that my sister still owns, and a 2004 GT hatch that one son drives to college. A crude car mechanically by today's standards, but mid-sized interior room, lots of cargo room (with fold-flat rear seat bottom), great driver's seat with 8-way adjustment, lots of padded surfaces vs. hard plastic, perforated leather seating, smooth controls, ABS with traction control, very reliable, and that retro fastback styling that is reminiscent of the Saab 900. They used to be a good buy as a used car, but prices have skyrocketed like for other used cars. I can't believe the KBB private party value on that car is 60% of what I paid nearly 7-1/2 years ago.
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