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I just wanted to find out from the experts what they would choose in this scenario: price being the same for both cars - $3K
Chevy Malibu 1999 sedan
Single owner
119K miles
TOyota Camry 1996
3 owners
159K Miles
I'm sure the Malibu owner sure knows his stuff as the car was in pristine condition but the 2 things impacting my decision would be:
1-Resale value after 2 years
2-Maintenance costs for the next 2 years
Thanks folks.
But the concern over maintenance costs is real. Pick the car that has the best condition, and most new/newer wear parts: brakes, shocks/struts, tires, exhaust system/converter, etc. Also if you can get maintenance records on either car that would be huge. You say the Malibu looks to be in pristine condition, so that might be very important. Is he the original owner, and has all the records?
If possible, have a good mechanic check out the car to make sure there isn't anything major wrong with it. Will cost you a few bucks but could save you a lot more.
In 2 years, the resale value is going to be pretty much independent of the make/model, and more related to the condition and mileage. If it still runs in 2 years, it's a $1500-ish vehicle, slightly more or less depending on wear & tear. If it doesn't run, it's a $500 vehicle for parts.
Have them both checked out, the pick the one you like the best.
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I really need help deciding what to lease as nothing I can afford is really standing out to me. Which is disappointing. I currently have a 2009 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L. It has low miles (23K) and I've had to have the brake pads fixed 3 times! To me, that is unacceptable. Honda dealers tell me they have fixed the brake issue, but then, they are trying to sell cars. I need to know from those who have a 2011/12 Honda if the brakes still squeal, etc. and have this issue.
The choices are:
2012 Honda Accord coupe V6
2012 Acura TSX 4 cyl.
2012 Kia Optima SX
2012 Buick Regal TURBO
The Kia is the only one I have not test driven. I would have loved to have gotten a Mustang V8, but can't afford the lease and the V6 was underpowered IMO. I also test drove the VW CC and was appalled at the amount of throttle lag. I can't believe Edmunds never commented on that in their review. To me, acceleration is unpredictable and unsafe. Again, would have leased a CC in a heartbeat but for that unseamless turbo. If anyone can recommend something I have not thought of, or if you feel that Honda has improved brake quality enough to recommend the V6, by all means do so! Basically I'm looking for something on the sportier side of handling with good safety.
Thank you for any suggestions...
Or how about the new Mazda3 with Skyactiv? Great handling, peppy if not blistering, and up to 40 mpg EPA rating on the highway.
I would have loved to have gotten a Mustang V8, but can't afford the lease and the V6 was underpowered IMO.
You lost me here, too. The 2012 V6 Mustang will run circles around all the other cars you listed. Did you drive a 2011??
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Have you test driven the other cars in your list?
Other then that, I have to say the TSX's suspension felt the sturdiest, if maybe a little bland in the feel of the drive. Remember, I'm looking at the 4 cylinder not the 6. Thank you everyone for the feedback! Much appreciated.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
For daily driving a modern automatic does the job, gets better mileage and is much easier to contend with in traffic.
After driving a manual for 12 years, I gave it up due to the congestion. It wasn't worth on the clutch off the clutch every 3 inches.
Pick a gear. stay in it and ignore the surrounding traffic during a jam. Stay7 in 1st or 2nd gear and shift as little as possible. Ignore distance between yourself and the cars around you. That is, don't care about if it's 10 or 30 ft between you and the car in front.
Traffic jams are a snap. The last one I was in I shifted a total of 6 times in 30 minutes.
Yup. I practice this as well. You also have to avoid the temptation to upshift when you know you'll just be slowing down again. I almost never have to use 1st in traffic.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
When you buy any car you gamble with reliability. I have more than a few bookmarked posts where posters have complained long and loud about supposedly reliable cars.
It's safe to say that even though every car co. will have a lemon handed out here and there, if the majority of consumers have had similar negative issues with a car, we should probably listen As for the clutch issue, I hear you on the coasting concept, but I have knee problems, so until I can afford a weekend car, tiptronic it is for daily needs! Needless to say I'm a car purist at heart, and there is no denying the feel of the road with a manual.
Shame you can't get off the leasing merry go round as one never owns anything this way. Sometimes a CPO car is the way to go with it's great warranty in most cases...just a thought. Good luck with whatever you end up with...remember, you need a reliable car you can enjoy!
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
My "unreliable" XT now has 80K miles on it and the only warranty repair is the seat flipper downer thingy in the rear. I also "heard" Subarus were unreliable, especially if one has a turbo.
Nobody can tell you what to do. If you "heard" Camrys are unreliable you should keep that in mind when deciding your purchase decisions.
That said, Toyota never has made a very reliable V6 engine, and their automatic transmissions are upwards of $4K for a replacement. Their claim to fame, worldwide, has always been 4 cylinder cars and their manual transmissions. If you get one with both, you'll have the doors rust off before it dies. Honda also is similar in that I'd take a 4 cylinder Accord over the V6 as the 4 is better.
Your option is to get new rotors and 3rd party pads (Autozone's Gold CMAX brake pads, Hawks or EBC Greenstuff) or live with it. I have been living with this issue for a good part of over 10 years on various Hondas. I may switch but I would prefer silent pads over even the slightest squealing which at least most Honda pads do not do.
You should really learn to change these yourself. They are simple to do and will then ask yourself why are you paying $150 labor to do something you can do in 30-60 minutes on your own.
From my observations about American cars in my opinion reach a point and then they fall apart (I still think I'm thinking of the old GM). Maybe it's not true in 2011, but there is no American car I'm interested in as a daily driver.
Although my son just bought a Focus, which I really like.
I would disagree with that. Outside of recent recalls, Toyota's are extremely reliable, V6 engines included.
I would not hesitate to buy V6 equipped Toyota if reliability was the only factor I was considering.
I really like the build quality of the Focus. It's really impressive. Back seat is a little tight, though.
How is the fuel economy?
And I'm not trying to be rude here either...so don't take offense!
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Sorry. That just kinda came out.
The newest Toyota GZ series engines are good. But you really do want to avoid the older VZ (gutless and prone to mechanical issues) and MZ engines (sludge, other issues), which are in many models until 2006-2008 or so, so that affects a lot of CPO and similar models that people might consider without realizing that they are potentially getting into transmission (somewhat unavoidable) *and* engine issues as the car ages.
But their 4 cylinder engines are great. As are their few inline 6 engines. And as for manuals, my last Toyota ate its input bearings and 4th gear sprocket at ~340K miles. $1200 for a brand new manual (not rebuilt) and I was good to go again. The clutch was $150 for the part.
Isn't there a pattern of the 4-cylinder engines having head gasket leaks causing cooling system problems? The guy up the road that does off-the-record auto repairs in his garage gets a couple of those a year that he'll diagnose for friends.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Test drove A7, like the drive, but its kinda pricey (A6 - my wife doesn't like the look)
Also looked at inifiniti M series, not too impressed with the price and what I get.
Haven't been to the BMW dealer yet.
Here is what we need:
Something that looks great and sporty, all wheel drive, with reasonable power.
Any advise
Back seat is smaller than most, however. Could look at the S80, but it is due for a redesign. Volvo's interiors are better than Infiniti's.
Also might take a look at the CTS.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
What do people think about the new genesis sedan?
I read some good reviews on it comparing it to the a6 or E series.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f2336e3/0!make=Hyundai&model=Genesis&ed_m- - akeindex=.f2336e3
Get a CTS and laugh at the idiots who buy big bloated road sofas with European badges. And save about 30K in the process, since you can get a previous year model now for about 35K pretty easily.
No, it's no 3 series. But it handily beats the E class and 5 series in price and overall usability. Plus, repairs are a lot less expensive. Add in a good interior and looks that make it clear from two blocks away that you're not driving a jellybean-mobile. Remember the days when everyone knew what brand you drove a quarter mile away?
It's worth a look at least.
P.S. If you have that much money, there's also the CTS-V, but it's quite honestly a bit silly.
I"m in Canada so the prices are more than the US
I thought 61k foe a caddy is a bit too much. I could probably get a A6 for around 70k. Or a BMW 535
AnyWAY I'm going to take the caddy for a drive on Saturday
What do u guys think of the price?
The 3.0L has 270HP and is more than enough.
For a 2011 CTS 3.0L AWD Luxury (quoted via truecar), it's $36,769. That's in USD, but it gives you a good idea of how much less you can get one for. For a same trim 2012 with the 3.6L engine, they quote $47,959 - a bit over $11K more.
Based upon a few sites I found in Canada that were similar, you should be looking at about $45-47K for the same car in Canada.
I have found a few '09 EX-L's that I would be interested in, with mileage in the low $20k's and prices around $18k. This would be with the 4-cylinder and I think 190hp engine.
I have since read some reviews and noted that there are premature brake wear issues with this vehicle and there was even a class action lawsuit filed and won. This has me rethinking my choice.
I have heard that there are remedies for the brake problem, but I want to know if the remedy is effective or not and what aI should ask the dealer about the situation. The sale people I have asked either don't know anything or they are lying and claiming they don't know anything about it.
Does anyone have an information regarding this situation?
Are there other "similar" cars that I would be better-off considering?
Thanks for any help that you can provide.