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Volvo Maintenance and Repair

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  • I own a 2001 2.0 V40 and recently after a training session with mates i somehow managed to permanently lock the boot. Turns out that due to that stupid feature of when the car is locked and when the driver opens the door, it unlocks everything, i seemed to have opened my door at the same time as one of my mates was pushing the button on the boot to open it, causing the boot button to remain permanently depressed and the boot remain permanently locked. This has become extremely annoying as now i have to move bootable items through the back seat.

    Now i have a friend who has also done this before and said that when he took to the volvo service to get the problem fixed, it was a $500 job!!!

    If someone knows how to fix this problem without me having to spent hundreds of dollars to fix a stupid 'lock glitch', your help would be greatly appreciated
  • avwavw Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4T that I love. I just passed 40k miles and in the last 2 months I have had 2 seperate chip issues that have required replacing and time driving loaners. The ignition chip went out in Dec and my car is at the dealer now with a throttle sensor issue that is being replaced. Our concern is that we have 10k left on the warranty, we dont believe in extended warranties and this would cost serious money if we were outside of warranty. This is supposed to be a great car but we are considering selling it now. Honda, Toyota and Lexus have all been driven to w/in an inch of their lives w/very few issues, if any, such as these. What to do...any others w/these issues???
  • baynebayne Posts: 2
    Trying to locate keypads for a GuardAlarm 2 system. The keypad remote # is 1309944. I can start the car without one, but you have to open the door, let is scream for a few seconds, disconnect the battery, turn the key in the start position then re-connect the cable. Unfortunately, the radio is bypassed and you drive around hearing that annoying whinning sound you hear when the door isn't securely closed. So I guess I need to know if there's anywhere to get the keypad I need - I understand Volvo doesn't handle anything for the '93s anymore.....HELP!!!
  • MY V70R has been having trouble starting in the mornings. If I can get her started she runs perfect all day and has no problem starting all day. I can hear my fuel pump running and none of the injectors are leaking. I had the throttle body changed by Volvo less than a year ago. The OBD2 shows nothing. Any ideas?
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • Are the pads and rotors of the 2001 S40 one unit and have to be replaced together? During my routine maintenance visit at the Putnam Volvo dealership in Burlingame, CA I was told that my rear brake pads were just to the point of being worn out. When I inquired about replacement, I was told, "The brake pads and rotors are one unit and have to be replaced as a unit" When I asked when I should have unit replaced, I was told, "Just keep driving until you hear screeching, then you'll know it's time". In reviewing postings here I see no one stating they've had to replace brakes pads AND rotors as a unit. In fact there are many discussions regarding replacing pads with no mention of replacing rotors at the same time HELP!! :surprise:
  • arigatoarigato Posts: 3
    I have a 95 850 Turbo SW that has a a metallic like clunking sound coming from the front right strut area. Out side of the car, when I press down on the front fender it sound more like a rubber squeaking noise. I tried tightening the top strut nut but it just turns with out getting any tighter. The only thing that works temporarily is when I spray the strut mount with WD-40 so that some of the fluid gets on the strut rod. The car has 120,000 miles on it and has never had the struts replaced. Do you think it is the strut, the strut mount or something else. Thanks in advance.

    -Mike
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,415
    probably the strut mount.

    if you pop your hood and then push down on the car, you should be able to see if the mount is giving way or not.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • arigatoarigato Posts: 3
    Ok. Thanks. One more question. When removing the nut from the top of the strut do you have to counter the strut rod with the threads on it from turning or should you be able to just unscrew the nut like a normal nut.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,415
    i'll do ya one better. here is a full set of instructions.

    http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/

    by the way, what you and i called strut mounts in the last couple of posts, they refer to as spring seats.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • arigatoarigato Posts: 3
    Thank you! I concur with the spring seats comment. I ordered 2 yesterday for $18 from shox.com
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,415
    no problem. good luck with the repair.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • 02hockey02hockey Posts: 3
    I am looking at replacing my 1991 passat that my wife went deer hunting with. I have checked reports on the Passat and have read horor stories on repair bills when timing belts break. Are there any models that do not have huge bills when the belt breaks. On my 1991 I broke 2 belts and nothing happened, was I lucky or did this problem just arise in newer models. I live in Manitoba Canada where it gets quite cold. I have read some forums that volvos have problems in cold weather. Also I drive about 45,000 km per year. Most of my driving was all highway as I drive 40 mile to work every day. Are there S40 models that have manual trans?? I am not favoring one car company over another, I just want some honest opinions. What is the best car out there for my needs. I am looking at something in the 2000 to 2001 model year. I read that Volvo has been taken over by Ford. If they make a product like the 1981 Mercury Lynx than we are all going to be happy. I had 475,000 km on it and never touched the clutch or adjusted the carb. The head cracked and I had to park it at the farm where it still sits. I look forward to hearing from experience owners in this matter, I need to find something in the next month.
  • Hi,

    We have an S80 2.5T we recenlty purchased used, and it is our first Volvo. Very nice it is too.

    Has anyone had a problem with a remote key control not resetting the seating position when you unlock the car? My wife and I are the only drivers, she uses her key and I use mine. The car responds to her key and sets her seat position when she unlocks the car, but my key does not. Has anyone had this issue? The dealer told me there is a routine to programming the car, but I've tried it and it made no difference. Wondered if you folks had a solution?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,415
    you'd be better served asking your VW questions on a VW board.

    I never heard of volvos having a problem in cold weather. I was under the impression they are specifically designed for the cold mountain weather of Sweden.(??)

    The new S40 has a manual trans option, both with the base engine and the higher-performance T5 model. I don't believe the previous generation S40 had a manual option.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • i have a 1990 760 turbo 4 cylinder, and the 2nd cylinder from the front is not firing. my dad and i changed the plugs and wires, and the distributor cap, and we are still having the same problem. we came to the conclusion that this cylinder isn't firing because the old one was fouled and the new one reeks of raw gasoline. the engine runs extremly rough, but the timing is correct according to the owners manual. any ideas???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    compression test!

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • 02hockey02hockey Posts: 3
    In the last week I have narrowed it done to one of these 2 choices. A 2002 s60 T5 with a 5 spd and 54,000 or a 2003 s60 with a AT trans with 47,000. Any case history of problems with these two models??
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,415
    not that I know of. Nothing to worry about, anyway.

    I don't think that's a contest. GET THE T5!! ;)

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • athiker1athiker1 Posts: 1
    I have a chance to purchase a used 1997 850, 220K miles, everything seems ok and works. Question is do these last much beyond that mileage ?
  • Yes, some do. And they are in Guinness Record's book.

    Why do you want such an old (mileage wise)
    car? There was nothing special about 850, you can get much lower mileage 740 or 960, probably for less money.
    As an example, I bought very clean used 1990 740 just under 100K for $4000 in 2001. Pretty much the same age difference.

    I think, 220K miles warrants a spot on "longest lasting" car list @ volvocars.com.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,415
    How much $$?

    Lev is right, of course. There is just no reason to buy one with those miles, unless we're talking $500 and everything works well as of this moment.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • vtdogvtdog Posts: 163
    I have a '93 850 with about 125k miles that I have owned since new. It has just started leaking oil in an odd place and I can't locate the source and am looking for assistance.

    The oil (it is engine oil) is see on the cross bar just behind the radiator (between radiator and engine). I cannot find a source for the leak "higher up", nor is there any potential source nearby. It only leaks a very small amount of oil.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated-Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,415
    check that its not blowing out the top of the dipstick. I would think you would see it elsewhere if this is the case, but you never know. The reason it would do this is a clogged flametrap/pcv (i'm not sure which is on your 850). The way I was shown to check this is to remove your oil filler cap and then run the car until it starts getting hot. If you see smoke coming from the oil cap opening, this means your flametrap/pcv is clogged and needs to be cleaned or replaced. If you let this go, the pressure that is building up and pushing oil out your dipstick can blow out major engine seals.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • vtdogvtdog Posts: 163
    GB:

    Thanks, I will check
  • vtdogvtdog Posts: 163
    I checkeb both oil and tranny dip sticks-no luck. I have to bring it in next month for state inspection ane will look further when it is on lift
  • davmesshdavmessh Posts: 3
    :D My wife has a Volvo 940, about 17 years old, and a warning light has appeared on the dashboard which looks like an upside down Y in a green triangle surrounded by orange. As there is no handbook I don't know what it is. Any-one help please? :sick:
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Man thats old. :)
    I think that is the Lamba Sond light.
    Means an issue w/ the o2 sensor.
  • davmesshdavmessh Posts: 3
    Thanks! :)
    So any ideas what needs fixing as my local mechanic was puzzled.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,415
    Means an issue w/ the o2 sensor

    in other words ... replace the o2 sensor.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

This discussion has been closed.