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Mazda6 Sedan

1499500502504505570

Comments

  • ian2ian2 Posts: 168
    Just out of curiousity, how many people are willing to pay $10 a month for radio? I don't think I would.
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    and I do.

    I look at it this way. I get a much better variety than typical radio. I get ESPN radio that barely comes in on my AM station.

    Some people argue that a cd changer is better since there is no fee. But how do you fill the changer? $9.99/month is less than one cd.

    And I won't count people who create mp3 cd's from downloaded music. It's an option, but not one that I agree with.

    So in the end, I get the benefit of hearing things I couldn't otherwise hear as well as save money vs. buying cd's.

    Sure it might not be for everyone, but it's far from a waste of money.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Posts: 2,287
    I would NOT pay $10----for that you get commercials on most of the music streams. But I GLADLY pay $13. I would find it very hard to live without Sirius. Once you have had it, going back would be like going back to watching over the air tv with rabbit ears, or going back to dialup after having had broadband.

    Also, if Mazda EVER starts factory installs, they are a Sirius partner, not XM.
  • I have XM and love it. There are commercials on some XM stations but hardly enough to complain about when my local stations play 10 minutes of music, 30 minutes of commercials, and 20 minutes of talk in the morning.

    BTW: If you purchase your subscription by the year you can decrease the cost to $7 per month. I will probably buy a 1 year contract when my 3-free trial months are up.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Posts: 2,287
    Heck, yeah.

    EITHER XM or SIRIUS beats the fire out of FM.

    Like the difference between color tv and black and white!
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    a one year old car. That thing lost almost 50% of its value in one year! I know Mazda's depreciate heavily but not this bad.
  • markjennmarkjenn Posts: 1,142
    I don't know where this $11.5K number came from, but a 2003 Mazda 6 that sold for $23K (and stickered around $24.5K) is definitely worth a lot more than $11.5K.

    - Mark
  • replayreplay Posts: 11
    I just went through edmunds appraisal of my mazda 6i. Came up with up about 14.5k. Thats for one with 10k miles on it. Its still kind of high depreciation. But a lot better then 11.5k.
  • A base 6i automatic does better than the Camry LE auto according to kbb.com but not quite as well as the Accord.

    03 6i auto w/ 15k in good cond: $13,800
    03 Accord LX auto with 15k in good cond: $15,500
    03 Camry LE auto with 15k in good cond: $13,200

    Out of the 3 cars the Camry has the highest MSRP at $21,064 while the Accord and 6 are hovering just over the $20,000 mark.

    Increase the options and the Camry XLE is worth $600 more than the 6 and nearly $3000 less than the Accord.

    03 Camry XLE with leather/roof: $15,700
    03 Honda Accord EX-L auto: $18,025
    03 6i auto with leather, abs, side airbags, roof:
    $15,200

    MSRP's are as follows:
    Camry XLE: $26,000
    Accord EX-L: $24,700
    Mazda 6i with options: $24,000

    So compared the to Camry the 6 is actually doing pretty well. Nothing to be ashamed of.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    when I checked the value of my 6i manual with premium package. $11,500 was for a dealer trade, but I just checked it again and now it's $12,800 for a dealer trade. Either I screwed up the first time, or my car is worth $1,300 more to a dealer this week than it was last week. Private party value is $13,900 and dealer retail is $15,794, which seems kinda high because I bought the car brand new for $16,800 @ 0% for 60 months at the end of June.
  • markjennmarkjenn Posts: 1,142
    newcar31, thanks for the clarification - it illustrates what happens when one person pulls a trade-in number for a low-end model, assumes it is a high-end model, and comes up with "50% depreciation in a year" to prove a bogus point.

    $16.8K to $12.8K is 25% in a year, about in line with most cars when you use wholesale values for the trade. And your retail cost includes a subsidy for the 0% financing so it's slightly inflated which makes the actual depreciation slightly less.

    All cars within a given class depreciate similarily. They'll vary some, but it will be 25% vs. 27%, not 25% vs. 50%. It makes betting on depreciation one of the least important factors in choosing a car brand.

    - Mark
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    The sticker price of my car was $19,900 and some people paid that, so some people's depreciation is much worse.
  • Sometime early in the New Year, I'll be getting a 6i. I don't know how this rust issue will resolve itself; I just know that the 6 has everything I want. It's better-looking than the Accord, sportier than the Camry, and cheaper than both. I had mused a bit about buying a Focus 2.3L (as sorta a 'cheaper' 6) but I really don't want a Focus. What I really like too is that the 6 did splendidly in crash tests.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    "And your retail cost includes a subsidy for the 0% financing so it's slightly inflated which makes the actual depreciation slightly less."

    Not sure what you're getting at here, but there were no rebates in lieu of 0% financing when I bought at the end of June. I got all possible rebates except for the recent college grad (I used that on the Protege) and the 0% financing. As far as rebates and special financing are concerned, usually it's either/or, and the dealership is less likely to negotiate off sticker, but I was fortunate enough to get $1,800 off sticker before $1,250 in rebates, AND get 0% for 60 months. This dealership was a "no haggle" dealership and had the $19,900 car marked at $18,100. I knew I qualified for $1,250 worth of rebates and the 0% on top of that, so I figured it was a fair deal and I didn't really want to haggle because I didn't think I could get that much better of a deal to make haggling worth it. If I didn't take the 0% financing, the price would have been more because I wouldn't have gotten the $250 rebate for using Mazda financing, so the 0% financing was not subsidised by the purchase price.

    There have been higher rebates on the car, but you couldn't use 0% with any of them.
  • markjennmarkjenn Posts: 1,142
    I see what you're saying, but let's say the 0% financing were not available. Then you'd have to pay the finance charges so in effect the car is effectively costing you less than the price you paid because you would have paid a finance charge if you had selected another model.

    IOW, 0% financing has some value and to be rigorous, this value must be included in the depreciation computations.

    - Mark
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Posts: 2,287
    Why?

    Are you saying if the owner had paid cash, an imputed interest rate should be added to the sale price, since the buyer lost the time value of the money?

    Sorry, such complex accounting will never satisfy most people, who only want to know how fast a car depreciates...
  • markjennmarkjenn Posts: 1,142
    If Mazda gives you 0% financing, then compared to paying cash, you get to keep the money in your pocket rather than pay for the car. So you could put this money in an interest-bearing account and earn interest on it. This earned money is an additional discount on the price.

    Alternatively, if you were planning on financing the car, the 0% financing saves you the interest charges on the loan.

    In either event, 0% financing is an additional discount on the price of a car.

    If this doesn't make sense, then let's call it a day.

    - Mark
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    "In either event, 0% financing is an additional discount on the price of a car.

    If this doesn't make sense, then let's call it a day."

    Obviously the higher the interest rate the more you pay each period. The more you pay the greater the total cost when the loan is paid off.

    Two identical cars in terms of options, and mileage will fetch the same price in any given area. So the car that was financed with the least amount of money will obviously net the owner a bigger chunk of money. However, the rate at which both cars depreciate is the same.

    The lost economic opportunity of some of these transactions, which some people would liken to your kids college education expense just isn't there. Obviously 0% financing on the loan is the way to go, preferable than paying cash, barring that I'd take 1%, barring that I'd take 2%..etc.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I thought you were trying to say that my dealer jacked up the price of the car to make up for the 0% financing. That is the case a lot of the time, but not in my situation. I would have paid the same amount for the car if I had paid cash, but as you have already pointed out, if I paid cash, I would be losing out on the time-value of money. If 0% is available, it only makes sense to pay cash if there are additional rebates in lieu of 0% financing. The only way you realize the full benefit of 0% financing is if you keep the car through the whole loan period just like the only way you pay all finance charges if you're paying interest is if you keep paying off the car for the entire loan period. You'll have to figure out what the 0% financing is worth over the loan period compared to the finance charges you'd pay if you didn't use 0%, and compare it to the current value of the rebate available in lieu of special financing. Sometimes it's a better deal to take the big rebates instead of the financing if they're either/or and pay cash. Where's my Texas Instruments BA-35 when I need it?
  • Dealer text on fuel odor recall:

    CONDITION OF CONCERN
    On subject vehicles, the fuel tank lock ring, which holds the fuel pump in the fuel tank, and/or the fuel pump seal, may have been installed improperly. In some cases, this may result in a fuel odor from fuel leaking from the fuel pump area, causing fuel accumulation. Fuel leakage in sufficient quantity in the presence of an ignition source could potentially result in a vehicle fire.

    SUBJECT VEHICLES
    U.S. Model

    Model
    VIN Range
    Build Date Range

    2003 MAZDA6
    All 2003 models
    October 2, 2002—August 6, 2003

    Canadian Model

    Canadian Model
    VIN Range
    Build Date Range

    2004 MAZDA6
    2004 models
    October 2, 2002—August 6, 2003

    OWNER NOTIFICATION
    Mazda will notify U.S. owners by first class mail beginning January 15, 2004.

    Mazda Motor Corporation has determined that a defect, which relates to motor vehicle safety, exists on 2003 U.S.-sold and 2004 Canadian-sold MAZDA6 vehicles produced from October 2, 2002 to August 6, 2003.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    it is generally better to take the rebates and finance yourself because then your loan buyout is less through the life of the loan.

    which means in 3 years when you try to trade, your payoff will be less. you can stay on top of your loan instead of being underneath.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    "it is generally better to take the rebates and finance yourself because then your loan buyout is less through the life of the loan."

    It depends on a number of factors. It depends on what interest rate you could get instead of 0%. It depends on how much the rebate is. It depends on how long you plan to keep the car. You really have to work the numbers on a specific deal to see whether the 0% financing or the rebate has the lowest absolute cost. If you plan on keeping the car, the 0% financing could be a better deal. One thing is for sure though, with a rebate, you get the full discount up front, with 0% financing, you have to wait the full term of the loan to realize the full discount.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    the rebate is usually equal to the finance rate for 48 months. If you finance for 60 months, at other than 0% interest, the rebate is the better deal. It depends, as has been pointed out, on how long you will keep the car. If you pay cash and then later need the money you can always get a car loan elsewhere.

    Most banks are not offering new car loans to depositors, they buy loans from the dealers which are not financed by car manufacturers. In this way the dealers get a rebate from banks. Your payments in the beginning are mostly interest and over the term of the loan it changes to mostly principal. That's why you don't want to sell or trade too soon, you will owe too much principal.

    fowler3
  • I was on MyMazda tonight to update my mileage, and the recall notice that was previously there disappeared! I wonder if Mazda was getting too many inquiries before the "official" announcement in January.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    and I found a cool performance upgrade for 6i owners. If any of you 6i owners ever plan on modding your car up to 1000 hp (lol), you might want to check this out. I'd probably get this done after I get my rust fixed, and maybe a strut tower bar too, just in case the intake mod pushes me over 1000. Skip the Honda the ones, the Mazda/Ford one is at the bottom of the page...

    http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeving.html
  • So what's the main difference between the 2003 and 2004 model, the dealership are offering $2500 rebate for the 2003 model and I'm thinking whether I should get the new year's model or not.
  • What month did the 04's come out? Im going to be buying my car sometime next August and I was wondering if I could get the 05 model.
  • The last date of production for the 2003s was 8/6/03. 2004s started hitting the lots in late September/early October.
  • Over the course of the 12 months that the 6 has been out there has not been enough time for there to be a significant difference. Because anyone who can qualify for the 0.0% probably has alternative financing through a credit union or bank at very low rates. While not 0.0% the amount of interest paid on a low rate loan would be minimal. At this point it's reasonable to argue prices paid regardless of the interest rate as long as you aren't paying more than 5%.
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