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Comments
Yes- I know I can simply add on a "plug and play," but I do not want to add any exterior components to my car.
Thanks for any info.
Steven
I sent an email to Mazda a while back with your question about satellite radio in an '04. They responded that the '04's cannot be modified to accept satellite radio. Bummer since I was hoping to get it too.
For the climate control to work the AC button must be on, but that doesn't mean the AC is actually working. That is determined by the temperature you have selected on the pre-set. If it is 60 degrees outside and you have your climate control set to 72, then the AC shouldn't turn on.
By the way, for those wondering where this post came from, we moved it over from the MZ6 buying experiences board.
We used to own a 2002 Subaru Forester, which had the same setup as the Mazda.
I am going to pursue further...
1. When the "auto" button is pressed, indeed the "a/c" and "auto" lights go on. This doesn't mean that the compressor is running all the time, it means it's ready to go when it's needed.
2. Turning off the A/C does NOT turn off the ACC. It does disengage the compressor, but the fan speed and direction (defrost, vent, floor) is still controlled by the ACC. I know this for a fact because I do this during my commute to/from work everyday. This feature may be unique to the 6, or for all Mazda models.
3. The ACC usually pulls in fresh air from outside, and doesn't allow the "recirc" to work (at least during the colder months).
4. Keeping the temperature around 75-78 degrees (F) usually keeps the interior comfortable 99% of the time. Your results may vary...
Hope this helps...
I kind of started this mess with my earlier posts, but I now think the system works fine once you know the (complex) rules. Set the temp to 75-78, as stated, and press the A/C button as needed; to control humidity or gas milage :-)
I would actually like to thank you for starting the ACC thread. I never bothered to use the ACC when I first bought my 6. I was used to the older ACC systems that kept the fan at hurricane speed until you arrived at your destination, making conversation and radio-listening useless, so I manually controlled everything. When the thread started, on a whim, I decided to use it when I took a long trip, and was pleasantly surprised. It's nice that the ACC keeps the fan on low until it reaches temperature, and even then, it doesn't turn the fan up than much, only a few bars. Much less intrusive than the older ACC systems, and works well to boot!
As far as the temp is concerned, I set it at 75 degrees, and I almost never adjust it (except when my wife's with me, then it's at 82!)
Overall, ACC is a little complex at first, but works well once you get it.
And therein lies the the reason for all the complaints about it. Automatic systems, no matter what they are, are not supposed to be complex. Now that I have it and the radio figured out I've gone from 110% satisfied to, well, 110% satisfied.
I just can't stop saying how much of a hoot the 6 is to drive. Everyone should own one at least once!
The learning curve for the 6 is fine, not difficult at all, a BMW iDrive, on the other hand, forget it! I hope Mazda shys away from all that complex crap that BMW ruined it's 7-series with and sticks to the basics.
"I just can't stop saying how much of a hoot the 6 is to drive. Everyone should own one at least once!"
I agree, but limit the "everyone" to all auto "enthusiasts". I just can't see the soccer moms with four kids in the car, a cell phone to her ear, and eating fast food, driving and enjoying the 6 as it was mean't to. After all, Mazda didn't want to build another Camry, and I thank the powers that be every night for that!
Zoom-Zoom!
Mazda either over simplified some things in the manual or I'm just so used to the Ford ACC system that I just tuned that section out. Either way I'm find with it now but will opt for something simpler the next time around just so I don't have to hear about it from the Mrs. anymore.
I too am glad Mazda didn't try to make another Camry. However, if everyone would buy one of these cars maybe they would be so in tuned with the road beneath their butts that they would forget about their cell phones and food and JUST DRIVE!
But what will they do to stay busy while not watching the portable DVD player????:)
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Is that before or after they figure out the ACC system in the 6?
Maybe Mazda should issue a CD-ROM with step-by-step instructions, video, and a bottle of anti-depressants!
Anyway, a tip for anyone that has the 6s and is living in the Arctic tundra this time of year(-6 degrees F here right now!) Due to my wife insisting she parks in the garage, her 2000 Neon is warm, but my '04 6 has to suffer! For a while, when I started the car, I'd kick on the defrosters, then get out to brush the snow/ice off the car. The fan would automatically go to full speed, but after 5-10 minutes, it'd still be cold when I got back in, and wouldn't warm up until about 5 minutes into my commute.
Well, this week, I decided to let the ACC take care of itself when I started the car. The defroster would go on, but the fan speed stays on "low". After brushing the snow off the car, I was treated to a warm interior before I started driving off, and was nice and toasty in no time.
My point? I guess that old wise tail is true. Allow the car to warm up BEFORE turning up the fan speed. It's yet another benefit that I've discovered since using the ACC.
Now if only the steering wheel was heated... I absolutely hate driving with gloves on! I can tolerate Isotoners, but it gets too cold for them sometimes. Any other suggestions? Besides moving to Florida... :-)
It's a bad time for clutch pedals and shifters now, too! My car was not eager to use anything but first gear this morning.
Personally, I wish the ACC was never put on this car in the first place. Obviously, Mazda did not do enough research and designing to truly give us an automatic climate control.
I have had my Mazda 6 for about a year now and gave up on the ACC months ago.
Here is what I have found to work best for me and I have had no problems since. I live in Wisconsin and there are a lot of extreme temperature and humidity changes throughout the year. One of the main complaints about this system is the fog that forms on the windshield when it is humid and hot out. What I have found is that if you have the air conditioner on to cool the inside of the car and you have the control knob in either all floor or floor defrost, the AC will blow on the windshield, obviously causing the fog to form on the windshield. What I have been doing is running the AC manually in the floor/panel setting and have had much less, if none at all, fog form on the windshield on hot and humid days. If you notice when you have the control setting in all floor mode there is a considerable amount of flow from the fan blowing cool air directly at the windshield. This is what causes the fog. When you have the setting in floor/panel, the majority of the cool air is coming from the panel vents and some from the floor vents. If you put your hands by the defrost vents, you will feel very little air coming out of those vents. If you do not like all the cool air blowing directly on you from the panel vents, close some of them. This will send more air to the floor but not at the windshield.
Winter - It depends on what your priority is. If you want your car to warm up fast, and there is no frost to be loosened from the windshield, put the manual setting on floor. Put the recirculation control on inner air recirculation. I agree also keep the fan on a lower setting for awhile. It is easier for the engine to warm the cabin air that is warming than to try to warm the frigid air being sucked in by the air intake. Once the air starts to warm, turn it back onto fresh air recirculation or the windows will start to fog up on the inside because of the humidity in your breath. If your main concern is to defrost the windshield, obviously you need to shoot full air to the defrost and hope for the best.
I really have to get a kick out of all of you guys and it has been an interesting read for the last nine months but come on, you guys have to finally realize that the ACC system is basically worthless unless you live in an area that has very little temperature and climate change.
The one thing that really ticks me off about the ACC system is that even in summer when I have nothing on whatsoever, the AC is off, all fans are off, the ACC is off, I have noticed that there is still condensation dripping from the AC compressor. This obviously means that the AC is somehow still running with no cool air being used, all buttons are shut off, and I have to wonder how this is affecting my gas mileage.
Good Luck to all! *@%& the ACC and start enjoying the rest of the car.
John
I'm in the habit of turning everything in the car off before turning the key and getting out. When temps here were warmer (I purchased in Oct, so I don't have hot weather experience yet), I began to notice that after starting the engine and turning the fan on (A/C off, no defrost, air on floor only), the engine speed increases and I hear a click immediately followed by a slight clunk up front, just like when turning the A/C on. That HAS to be the compressor engaging! Furthermore, I've also noticed that when I'm out on the road with the controls in that same configuration, I occasionally feel a slight drag on the engine while accelerating, as if the compressor is engaging and putting additional load on it. My mileage is still not what I hoped it would be either, so I'm beginning to suspect that the A/C compressor is running the entire time I have my fan on (except when outside temps are very low).
Who knows...maybe you could buy the tape deck, and cut off the connector for that and connect the proper connection to your ipod?
http://sol20.com/ATENZA/mazpcalp_E.htm
If you want, instead of attaching the cable that provides the RCA inputs, you can attach an Ice Link ($200) which allows you to use the buttons on the steering wheel, and head unit to control the iPod.
I love my car very much and don't want to leave it here for someone to sell on my behalf. As such, I wanna ship it to NY because it doesn't make sense for me to take it to the UK. Does anyone know if it would meet NY/US standards? Is there a big difference between Mazdas built in the States and those manufactured in Japan? If the car is not sold by this weekend, I will have to ship it to the States.
I look forward to reading your suggestions and comments.
Thanks so much!
Good luck...
Note that it seems to apply to all 2004 trims, not just the 6i in that link.
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I am not using the ACC (instantly decided it had a mind of its own, which usually didn't match my wants), do not have the AC button pushed, nor am I using defrost. I'm only set on floor vents. Yet, there is the condensation! Today it was as impressive of a puddle as I've seen, so the compressor must working pretty hard.
Is this normal? Anyone have an idea of what's happening? I echo the concern: How much MPG are we losing?
Joe
Thanks!
Bill
I would recommend the 6S highly. One of the main reasons I bought it was reliability. The mechanicals are not totally new. Many are carried over from the Mazda MX6 LX /Ford Probe GT line that used a 2.5L V6. These were built in the same Flat Rock, MI plant as the current Mazda 6.
I had a 1993 Ford Probe GT with auto trans for 10 years and 180,000 miles and never had any problems other than replacing the distributor twice. Note that CR recommended against buying the AT. I've put 25,000 miles on my 2003 6S and zero problems so far. This is exactly what I expected.
This is independent of the sportiness, performance and relative uniqueness of the 6S that sets it apart from the blandness of Toyotas, Hondas, Nissans and the like. You can do better but you'd have to spend alot more to do so. I still don't believe you would get better reliability at any price. Take care of your 6 and it will take care of you. (A wouldn't trust rental cars to be well taken care of).
In my opinion no one should view what they read (good or bad) on forums are being representative as the percentage of owners that is involved is extremely small and it seems the ones that are most commonly attracted are those with a concern or a complaint. A good portion of the complaints/gripes also appear to be misguided due to lack of knowledge and unnecessary worrying/panic as a result.
Check out the 6S in person and via several test drives. You shouldn't be disappointed.
Stu
I have been into cars for as long as I can remember, and I read car magazines cover-to-cover every month. When it came time to buy a new daily driver for me, I knew exactly what I wanted, and I narrowed it down to the Accord, Altima, Passat, and the 6 (sorry, but the Camry was too blah for me!) The accord was a nice ride, but I couldn't get a manual with a V6. The Altima 3.5SE and Passat 1.8T were very nice, but two different dealers wouldn't budge on the sticker price of the Altima (over $28K each!) The Passat was impressive as well, but a co-worker's wife has had one for a year and had been in for service 4 different times. Knowing that I'd probably have to settle for the Altima, I decided to give the 6 a try...
I bought the 6 that afternoon!
A number of things sold me on the 6. The V6 is smooth and powerful (don't let that 220 HP fool you, it feels much stronger than that). The styling is unique and downright sexy. The interior was nicely appointed, with a lot of features for the price. Speaking of price, I was able to bargain down to $50 over invoice, not including the incentives.
It's been almost 7 months and 9,000 miles later, and I still smile every morning when I start it up! I've had NO problems so far, and it still feels as tight as the day I bought it. Besides my daily driver, it's also gone on a few road trips of 250+ miles, and my wife and I both find it comfortable on long trips. It's such a fun car to drive, I'm always looking for open roads, and I find myself going 20-30 MPH over the speed limit without even trying! (Kids, don't try this at home.)
Test drive the 6. Try out both the 4-cyl and V6 (a fine choice either way), and compare the price to the Passat and Altima, you won't be disappointed!
Good luck.
I have had some minor issues, adjusting to an automatic after driving stick for 12-years, sulphur smell issue (which they WILL resolve under warranty), and figuring out the ACC but the users here were able to get together and figure out the A/C vs. ACC :-)
I would strongly recommend that you give it a good test drive, I think you'll be sold. I would NOT buy a used one. This could be a resale issue for you if you plan to sell it sometime soon. I plan to keep mine long enough not to care.
Here's yet one more satisfied 6 owner who considered/drove all the competition up and down the price spectrum. I also owned a 2000 Passat- don't be tempted, there is a lot more to the reliability horror stories than sour grapes, they are a reliability nightmare as they age. I owned a 2003 Accord EX-L coupe- excellent in all respects, esp. gas mileage. Got too cramped for growing kids, Accord sedan just too ugly from the rear view. Bought a '04 6S Hatch- the other posters are right-on: if you love to drive, need reliability and don't want to spend for an Acura or BMW, the 6 is the only real option. Ours has 5K miles, 0 problems, and I look forward to driving it every day. As a sales rep, I sometimes will drive 300+ miles in a day. The seat is supportive and has no odd-shape areas to bother the back (I have the leather). The auto trans is ok, a little odd off the line at times but not bothersome, manual mode works as good or better than the VW Tiptronic. And it runs just fine on 87 octane. The VW/Audi 1.8T, Acura's, and BMW all must run premium or they just don't run right. I plan on keeping this car 3 years and giving to my daughter so resale is not an issue; Mazda resale is admittedly lower than Honda/Toyota, but, why be bored for the sake of a few bucks years down the road? Best of luck in your decision.
What I DON'T get is how the 6 gets good ratings over all in all the different categories in the Consumer Reports guide yet gets a rating of lower than average reliability. (the 3 gets the "best small car" recommendation).
CR has always been an enigma to me. I've used CR for research for all my major appliance and car purchases, but that's it. I don't ever take CR as the last word, I just take their ratings and weigh it against my personal needs/wants. I'd probably be stuck driving a Camry if I took them as the last word.
Edmunds.com and the car magazines web sites are a much better source in terms of car research. IMHO, I'd still try and purchase a new 6, or even a leftover '04, I bet you'll still get an affordable deal. The 3 is a great choice as well, my wife is considering one to replace her (garbage) Neon.
I am in the Houston Area and I will say, if you look at the 2004's right now they are pushing them pretty hard. In fact, I bought mine for $18,000 OTD (but that included a college grad discount).
I found that with the incentives you can get a new one for roughly the same as a used one. I have to note though, mine is pretty much scock with the exception od the sports package.
I added a stereo and it is damn nice.
If you are looking for a stick, I know there are a couple of places that would love to sell one down here in Houston. Go to Mazda's web site and type in Gillman, or Russel & Smith. Those two places were great. I ended up buying from Russell & Smith because of the location and the one they had in stock. But both were extremely up front with me - veery little haggling.
Anyway,
I think the CR numbers are skewed from non major repairs.
hope this helps a little.
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I've owned Nissan, Toyota, Honda, Mitsubishi, and Acura over the past 25 years and my three Mazdas, including my '04 6s, are as reliable as any of them.
I will have to check prices/incentives up here a little more closely. I have noticed that there are a LOT of 03 and 04 6s used for sale. I checked several online and they're beling listed well below blue book price. What I dont understand is how these cars can be so relatively inexpensive, considering they are only a year old. Faster depreciation maybe? Good for the buyer, but as a few have noted, not so good if you're trying to sell. On the other hand, if the NEW ones are going for less, then theoretically the used ones should be less as well? I am lookng only at used ones as I can't afford a new one, and I don't want to take the depreciation hit. Heck it's new to me. Besides any car that I CAN afford brand new, I probably dont want anyway! (I refuse to drive a Kia)
Think I'll pass on the trip to Houston for right now, we'll see what happens up here.
Bill
The reason CR gives the 6 the overall rating of under average reliability is I'll break it down:
I have the CR magazine in front of me right now too. For 03 the 6 got an average reliability rating in 3 trouble spot categories: Body Integrity(Squeaks/Rattles), Brakes, and Fuel(I think this was due to the fuel recall that Mazda had on some of their cars a couple of years ago.) I guess the 03 6 when compared to the average 03 model year cars in terms of reliability is worse than average. I guess the 03 6 for a 2 year old has more problems than other 03 models that are out on the road today. The 04 6 they gave a worse than average reliabity rating as well but the current issue of CR only rated reliability with 04 6's with 3,000 miles on them. The 04 6's reliability could bounce back to average in CR's next issue. Just to add something I guess when CR rated the 04 6's reliability in the October/November 2004 issue the 6's reliability in 3 trouble spot categories was above average(Electrical, body Integrity, and Body Hardware) and all the rest of the trouble spot categories were rated Excellent reliability. To go further into it even though for the 04 6 all trouble spots category were either rated above average or excellent reliability the overall rating was worse than average compared to the average 04 model. Remember the 6 was an all brand new model for 03 hence the first year problems. If I were buying a 6 today I would be worried about brakes. I have read problems(Problems & Solutions board)with 03 and 04 model 6's having brake problems(sqeauling)so maybe the brake problem does still exist with the 6. I see complaints about clutch problems with the 6 too. CR has rated the transmission in the 6 Excellent Reliability though.
CR did a similar thing with the Mazda Tribute when it first came out. In 01 they rated it worse than average in reliability. In the next issue or they rated it worse than average reliability for the 02 model year. All the issue's after that they have rated it average or above average reliability. I think its a Ford thing maybe. Ford has bad reliability records for first year models(ala current generation Focus, LS, Tribe/Escape, and Explorer.) The Mazda 6 is built out of a Ford plant so hence the first year problems as well like I mentioned before the 6 being an all new car. Ford has had a tough time with first years models but in their second year models Ford seems to get those kinks worked out . The Focus(00-04) and LS(00-04)Explorer(02-04) and Trib/Escape(01-04)had bad first year reliability but after the first year they were average relliability. Ford has yet to get the kinks worked out of the current version of the Expedition though. The last generation Expedition had better reliability than the current model looking at CR's ratings.
Mazda's plant in Japan is much better at working at kinks with first year models than Ford's plant in Flat Rock with Mazda cars. I think think from the 2nd year models on Flat Rocks and Mazda's plant in Japan is about equal in terms of assembling a car. It just takes Flat Rock's Plant longer to work out kinks with cars than Mazda plant in Japan. I kinda mixed about that now though the RX-8 is assembled in Japan and the 04 models have been out for 2 years and CR rated the RX-8 worse than average reliability. I recently have talked to an RX-8 owner and he has said he has had no problems with the car. The 99 Protege has always been rated above average in reliability and that was first year of the last generation Protege. The 00 MPV has always been rated above average in reliability until the last couple cars when reliability has slipped to way under avaerge due to the tranny problems. The 98 626 was rated above average and was made in Flat Rock but that wasn't really a first year model. That was just a carryover of the 93-97 626. It wasn't a brand spankin new model like the 03 6 was.
Sorry to gab on but I am just trying to get everybody to understands CR's rating system among other things.