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Mazda6 Sedan

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Comments

  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    Don't forget about ABS being standard all across the board for the 6 model line. Everybody was complaining about ABs being an option on the 6i model trim. Now the 6 has ABS standard all across the board for I and S models.
  • rampedramped Member Posts: 358
    Finally got a response from Mazda about when to change the automatic transmission fluid. As some of us had guessed, Mazda recommends the change at 30,000 miles.
  • sstrz1sstrz1 Member Posts: 28
    I see that the the '05's offer Satellite radio as a dealer installed option....does anyone know if this can be installed in the '04's?

     

    Yes- I know I can simply add on a "plug and play," but I do not want to add any exterior components to my car.

     

    Thanks for any info.

     

    Steven
  • rickinnj8rickinnj8 Member Posts: 9
    Steven,

     

    I sent an email to Mazda a while back with your question about satellite radio in an '04. They responded that the '04's cannot be modified to accept satellite radio. Bummer since I was hoping to get it too.
  • rampedramped Member Posts: 358
    Sudyam: if you press the AC button to turn it off, then you have disabled the climate control system. That's when I just use the blower button and dial.

     

    For the climate control to work the AC button must be on, but that doesn't mean the AC is actually working. That is determined by the temperature you have selected on the pre-set. If it is 60 degrees outside and you have your climate control set to 72, then the AC shouldn't turn on.

     

    By the way, for those wondering where this post came from, we moved it over from the MZ6 buying experiences board.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    A similar discussion has been going on in the MZ6 problems and solutions thread. Maybe we should all put our heads together on this one and figure out how this system really works. :)
  • sstrz1sstrz1 Member Posts: 28
    This is the right info...I know that it is "tough" to accept the fact that the ACC is working properly (esp in the winter in the Northeast) with that darn A/C light on, but shutting off the A/C light does disengage the ACC.

     

    We used to own a 2002 Subaru Forester, which had the same setup as the Mazda.
  • sstrz1sstrz1 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks for the info...I bought my car in late November, and my salesman had no idea...haven't gotten around to e-mailing Mazda or checking w/ the service area....seems a little strange that the modification is that big to the degree that the '04's cannot accept satellite.

     

    I am going to pursue further...
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    We spoke about this topic on the "problems and solutions" board as well. We came to a few conclusions:

     

    1. When the "auto" button is pressed, indeed the "a/c" and "auto" lights go on. This doesn't mean that the compressor is running all the time, it means it's ready to go when it's needed.

     

    2. Turning off the A/C does NOT turn off the ACC. It does disengage the compressor, but the fan speed and direction (defrost, vent, floor) is still controlled by the ACC. I know this for a fact because I do this during my commute to/from work everyday. This feature may be unique to the 6, or for all Mazda models.

     

    3. The ACC usually pulls in fresh air from outside, and doesn't allow the "recirc" to work (at least during the colder months).

     

    4. Keeping the temperature around 75-78 degrees (F) usually keeps the interior comfortable 99% of the time. Your results may vary...

     

    Hope this helps...
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    Sorry, I just posted in the "problems and solutions" thread before I read your post. I agree with your statements, but I think in #1, that tha A/C compressor is always running. The reason I believe this is because I tried it yesterday when it was raining, and it's easy to tell (from the humidity) whether the A/C is running or just lighting the lamp. Even with the interior temp set to 85, it was 60 outside, the A/C was ON. When I turned the A/C off (based on #2 above) you could "smell the rain".

     

    I kind of started this mess with my earlier posts, but I now think the system works fine once you know the (complex) rules. Set the temp to 75-78, as stated, and press the A/C button as needed; to control humidity or gas milage :-)
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    You may be right. I'm just used to my old 4-cyl automatic that REALLY bogged down when the A/C compressor kicked on. Moving to a V6 manual, I guess I don't always notice the compressor running. Either way, I still manually kill the A/C when I use the ACC and the temperatures aren't TOO extreme (too hot or too cold!) Now I don't feel so bad doing that.

     

    I would actually like to thank you for starting the ACC thread. I never bothered to use the ACC when I first bought my 6. I was used to the older ACC systems that kept the fan at hurricane speed until you arrived at your destination, making conversation and radio-listening useless, so I manually controlled everything. When the thread started, on a whim, I decided to use it when I took a long trip, and was pleasantly surprised. It's nice that the ACC keeps the fan on low until it reaches temperature, and even then, it doesn't turn the fan up than much, only a few bars. Much less intrusive than the older ACC systems, and works well to boot!

     

    As far as the temp is concerned, I set it at 75 degrees, and I almost never adjust it (except when my wife's with me, then it's at 82!)

     

    Overall, ACC is a little complex at first, but works well once you get it.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Overall, ACC is a little complex at first, but works well once you get it.

     

    And therein lies the the reason for all the complaints about it. Automatic systems, no matter what they are, are not supposed to be complex. Now that I have it and the radio figured out I've gone from 110% satisfied to, well, 110% satisfied. :)

     

    I just can't stop saying how much of a hoot the 6 is to drive. Everyone should own one at least once!
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    But in all fairness, there is a small learning curve with new cars. As stupid as it sounds, I actually READ the owners manual, because I'd like to know what exactly I got for my money! Besides, it's fun to amaze my friends with new and different features...

     

    The learning curve for the 6 is fine, not difficult at all, a BMW iDrive, on the other hand, forget it! I hope Mazda shys away from all that complex crap that BMW ruined it's 7-series with and sticks to the basics.

     

    "I just can't stop saying how much of a hoot the 6 is to drive. Everyone should own one at least once!"

     

    I agree, but limit the "everyone" to all auto "enthusiasts". I just can't see the soccer moms with four kids in the car, a cell phone to her ear, and eating fast food, driving and enjoying the 6 as it was mean't to. After all, Mazda didn't want to build another Camry, and I thank the powers that be every night for that!

    Zoom-Zoom!
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Oh I read the manual. Cover to cover at least once. I even keep a .pdf copy of all my vehicle manuals on my PC for quick reference (mostly to post facts on these threads).

     

    Mazda either over simplified some things in the manual or I'm just so used to the Ford ACC system that I just tuned that section out. Either way I'm find with it now but will opt for something simpler the next time around just so I don't have to hear about it from the Mrs. anymore. :)

     

    I too am glad Mazda didn't try to make another Camry. However, if everyone would buy one of these cars maybe they would be so in tuned with the road beneath their butts that they would forget about their cell phones and food and JUST DRIVE! ;)
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    "forget about their cell phones and food..."

     

    But what will they do to stay busy while not watching the portable DVD player????:)
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    It's Tuesday, so it's time to join us for our Mazda chat hour. Hope to see you there tonight!

     

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  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    But what will they do to stay busy while not watching the portable DVD player????:)

     

    Is that before or after they figure out the ACC system in the 6? ;)
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    "Is that before or after they figure out the ACC system in the 6? ;) "

     

    Maybe Mazda should issue a CD-ROM with step-by-step instructions, video, and a bottle of anti-depressants!
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Okay, I started the "soccor mom" joke, and now I'd like to apologize for doing so... :-)

     

    Anyway, a tip for anyone that has the 6s and is living in the Arctic tundra this time of year(-6 degrees F here right now!) Due to my wife insisting she parks in the garage, her 2000 Neon is warm, but my '04 6 has to suffer! For a while, when I started the car, I'd kick on the defrosters, then get out to brush the snow/ice off the car. The fan would automatically go to full speed, but after 5-10 minutes, it'd still be cold when I got back in, and wouldn't warm up until about 5 minutes into my commute.

     

    Well, this week, I decided to let the ACC take care of itself when I started the car. The defroster would go on, but the fan speed stays on "low". After brushing the snow off the car, I was treated to a warm interior before I started driving off, and was nice and toasty in no time.

     

    My point? I guess that old wise tail is true. Allow the car to warm up BEFORE turning up the fan speed. It's yet another benefit that I've discovered since using the ACC.

     

    Now if only the steering wheel was heated... I absolutely hate driving with gloves on! I can tolerate Isotoners, but it gets too cold for them sometimes. Any other suggestions? Besides moving to Florida... :-)
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Yes, leaving the fan speed low at first is almost always a good technique to use. The heater core warms the air more thoroughly if it isn't blowing by as fast.

     

    It's a bad time for clutch pedals and shifters now, too! My car was not eager to use anything but first gear this morning.
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    I live in S. FLorida and its in the sixties now.I realize there won't be too many times i'll be using the heater in this car,but considering i have to use the A/C 10 months out of the year i don't envy you guys or my old NY winters either.
  • mazdajkmazdajk Member Posts: 28
    I have been reading you guys go back and forth now for awhile about the 6's ACC system. If you have not figured it out by now, the ACC is not going to give you the results it was intended to do. There are too many changes in Temprature, Humidity, Frost, Sun, Shade for it to give you the exact results you want.

     

    Personally, I wish the ACC was never put on this car in the first place. Obviously, Mazda did not do enough research and designing to truly give us an automatic climate control.

     

    I have had my Mazda 6 for about a year now and gave up on the ACC months ago.

     

    Here is what I have found to work best for me and I have had no problems since. I live in Wisconsin and there are a lot of extreme temperature and humidity changes throughout the year. One of the main complaints about this system is the fog that forms on the windshield when it is humid and hot out. What I have found is that if you have the air conditioner on to cool the inside of the car and you have the control knob in either all floor or floor defrost, the AC will blow on the windshield, obviously causing the fog to form on the windshield. What I have been doing is running the AC manually in the floor/panel setting and have had much less, if none at all, fog form on the windshield on hot and humid days. If you notice when you have the control setting in all floor mode there is a considerable amount of flow from the fan blowing cool air directly at the windshield. This is what causes the fog. When you have the setting in floor/panel, the majority of the cool air is coming from the panel vents and some from the floor vents. If you put your hands by the defrost vents, you will feel very little air coming out of those vents. If you do not like all the cool air blowing directly on you from the panel vents, close some of them. This will send more air to the floor but not at the windshield.

     

     

    Winter - It depends on what your priority is. If you want your car to warm up fast, and there is no frost to be loosened from the windshield, put the manual setting on floor. Put the recirculation control on inner air recirculation. I agree also keep the fan on a lower setting for awhile. It is easier for the engine to warm the cabin air that is warming than to try to warm the frigid air being sucked in by the air intake. Once the air starts to warm, turn it back onto fresh air recirculation or the windows will start to fog up on the inside because of the humidity in your breath. If your main concern is to defrost the windshield, obviously you need to shoot full air to the defrost and hope for the best.

     

    I really have to get a kick out of all of you guys and it has been an interesting read for the last nine months but come on, you guys have to finally realize that the ACC system is basically worthless unless you live in an area that has very little temperature and climate change.

     

    The one thing that really ticks me off about the ACC system is that even in summer when I have nothing on whatsoever, the AC is off, all fans are off, the ACC is off, I have noticed that there is still condensation dripping from the AC compressor. This obviously means that the AC is somehow still running with no cool air being used, all buttons are shut off, and I have to wonder how this is affecting my gas mileage.

     

    Good Luck to all! *@%& the ACC and start enjoying the rest of the car.

     

    John
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Your last paragraph is interesting, because I think that my compressor is coming on more often than it needs to.

     

    I'm in the habit of turning everything in the car off before turning the key and getting out. When temps here were warmer (I purchased in Oct, so I don't have hot weather experience yet), I began to notice that after starting the engine and turning the fan on (A/C off, no defrost, air on floor only), the engine speed increases and I hear a click immediately followed by a slight clunk up front, just like when turning the A/C on. That HAS to be the compressor engaging! Furthermore, I've also noticed that when I'm out on the road with the controls in that same configuration, I occasionally feel a slight drag on the engine while accelerating, as if the compressor is engaging and putting additional load on it. My mileage is still not what I hoped it would be either, so I'm beginning to suspect that the A/C compressor is running the entire time I have my fan on (except when outside temps are very low).
  • uffdaoleuffdaole Member Posts: 37
    Both XM and Sirus satellite radio are available at both circuit city and best buy installed. Have had it now for 3 months in my 04 mazda wagon and works great. My XM unit is the commodore, and had it mounted just below left dash vent. Simply tune regular radio to any one of 5 fm frequencys. Approx cost $260 installed. Would have preferred Sirus(stockholder) But all units too large, and would have to mount on top of dash, too tempting for thieves. Check it out!
  • jerry13jerry13 Member Posts: 1
    I got the Mazda6 and had the mp3 player installed....I find it to be terrible. The functionality of it makes no sense. So I am having that uninstalled and want to get the IPOD. However, I would rather not go through a transmitter and just go directly into the radio...an audio input. I cannot seem to find if there is one on the regular Mazda 6 stero (not BOSE). Can this be done with a standard out of audio line into the radio, or is a transmitter necessary. Thanks.
  • escortownerescortowner Member Posts: 132
    I don't know the answer to your question, but I am curious about the answer myself. I do have some thoughts though. On my stereo there is a button for md/tape, both of which are additions to the car. It seems like to me that if you were to purchase those items, they would simply add these items to your existing radio, and therefore there should be at least one audio out connection for those items. I am not sure if you could buy some sort of adaptor for that connection or not, but it sure seems like that would be a possibility to me....anyone know for sure?

     

    Who knows...maybe you could buy the tape deck, and cut off the connector for that and connect the proper connection to your ipod?
  • grahambgrahamb Member Posts: 45
    unfortunately no one makes a plug and play aux input for the Mazda 6, yet. Check out the link below for a way to get it to work, though. It's much easier if you have a 2003 over a 2004 (not sure about 05) because with the 04 you need to solder something onto the board inside the head unit. Check this link:

     

    http://sol20.com/ATENZA/mazpcalp_E.htm

     

    If you want, instead of attaching the cable that provides the RCA inputs, you can attach an Ice Link ($200) which allows you to use the buttons on the steering wheel, and head unit to control the iPod.
  • dayokayodedayokayode Member Posts: 31
    Sorry for being so dramatic. I work for an intl org in Costa Rica and currently own a 2005 Mazda 6i (leather and auto with ~8200km) built in Japan. However, I have to move to the UK; I will be leaving for the States next week and eventually going to Europe in February. Since I've not been able to sell the car (I bought it tax free and selling it has been a nightmare because buyers without tax-free status would have to pay huge taxes and complete inordinate paperwork).

     

    I love my car very much and don't want to leave it here for someone to sell on my behalf. As such, I wanna ship it to NY because it doesn't make sense for me to take it to the UK. Does anyone know if it would meet NY/US standards? Is there a big difference between Mazdas built in the States and those manufactured in Japan? If the car is not sold by this weekend, I will have to ship it to the States.

     

    I look forward to reading your suggestions and comments.

     

    Thanks so much!
  • rampedramped Member Posts: 358
    Try posting this on the questions for car dealers forum in smart shoppers. Maybe Terry can help you out.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    The NHTSA has issued a recall for certain 2004 Mazda6 models. According to the website, it only affects 190 vehicles, so chances are you aren't affected. It has to do with the locking mechanism on the rear seat belts. If you need more information, go to www.nhtsa.dot.gov, click "Recalls Search From Office of Defects Investigation (ODI)" found in the middle of the page. For the NHTSA campaign number, type the following: 04V582000. It will give you the details of the recall, as well as numbers to contact Mazda and the NHTSA.

     

    Good luck...
  • alex86alex86 Member Posts: 3
    I've had my 6 for not quite 2 months yet, and I love it. I was surprised to read in the owner's manual for my 6s that I am not supposed to use snow chains due to the low clearance under the car. On the mountain passes here (Oregon and Washington) the state police will require chains if the snow gets too deep. What am I supposed to do, not drive in the snow when that happens? This is the first car I've ever had that had this kind of issue.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    I guess this is our pre-Philly Auto Show panning session!

     

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    The MAZDA MANIA Chat is on tonight. Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    You could try some of the low profile chains - they should be fine. I would also call to see if 4 snow tires will work - some places don't make you have chains if your have 4 snow tires. They must have the mountain and snowflake symbol though.
  • dakdogdakdog Member Posts: 2
    I've had my 6 for 3 weeks now and am generally very happy with it. One quirk though is that there has been puddles under the car on the 4 or 5 days we've had with temps in the 50's or 60's.

    I am not using the ACC (instantly decided it had a mind of its own, which usually didn't match my wants), do not have the AC button pushed, nor am I using defrost. I'm only set on floor vents. Yet, there is the condensation! Today it was as impressive of a puddle as I've seen, so the compressor must working pretty hard.

    Is this normal? Anyone have an idea of what's happening? I echo the concern: How much MPG are we losing?

    Joe
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Some posts have been moved to the more appropriate Loaded Mazda3 or Base Mazda6 discussion. Follow us there by clicking on that link!
  • bill1975bill1975 Member Posts: 19
    Hello. After being frustrated at not being able to find a replacement for my 89 Camry that is reliable AND fun to drive I'm hoping the new 6 fits my bill. The reviews I've seen are great and I've seen generally good comments here. I'm wondering how the mechanical reliability has been so far since this is a new model. JD Power doesnt rate it so high but I've seen nothing but rave reviews from customers. CR doesnt either, but I'm a little suspicious of that. Up until now I've been wanting a Passat pretty badly but am becoming a bit frightened at the "Dr. Jeckyll/Mr. Hyde" characteristics the car seems to have. The 6 interested me partly because I've heard it described as being a good comprimise for a Japanese car in that it handles more like a European one. If anyone has any comments on this I'd appreciate it. Interestingly enough, After doing a web search for used 6's I noticed that most of them here (Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX) seem to be former rental cars being sold after a year. Not sure if I should be wary of that or not....

    Thanks!

    Bill
  • bullmooseybullmoosey Member Posts: 18
    Bill:

    I would recommend the 6S highly. One of the main reasons I bought it was reliability. The mechanicals are not totally new. Many are carried over from the Mazda MX6 LX /Ford Probe GT line that used a 2.5L V6. These were built in the same Flat Rock, MI plant as the current Mazda 6.

    I had a 1993 Ford Probe GT with auto trans for 10 years and 180,000 miles and never had any problems other than replacing the distributor twice. Note that CR recommended against buying the AT. I've put 25,000 miles on my 2003 6S and zero problems so far. This is exactly what I expected.

    This is independent of the sportiness, performance and relative uniqueness of the 6S that sets it apart from the blandness of Toyotas, Hondas, Nissans and the like. You can do better but you'd have to spend alot more to do so. I still don't believe you would get better reliability at any price. Take care of your 6 and it will take care of you. (A wouldn't trust rental cars to be well taken care of).

    In my opinion no one should view what they read (good or bad) on forums are being representative as the percentage of owners that is involved is extremely small and it seems the ones that are most commonly attracted are those with a concern or a complaint. A good portion of the complaints/gripes also appear to be misguided due to lack of knowledge and unnecessary worrying/panic as a result.

    Check out the 6S in person and via several test drives. You shouldn't be disappointed.

    Stu
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Bill:

    I have been into cars for as long as I can remember, and I read car magazines cover-to-cover every month. When it came time to buy a new daily driver for me, I knew exactly what I wanted, and I narrowed it down to the Accord, Altima, Passat, and the 6 (sorry, but the Camry was too blah for me!) The accord was a nice ride, but I couldn't get a manual with a V6. The Altima 3.5SE and Passat 1.8T were very nice, but two different dealers wouldn't budge on the sticker price of the Altima (over $28K each!) The Passat was impressive as well, but a co-worker's wife has had one for a year and had been in for service 4 different times. Knowing that I'd probably have to settle for the Altima, I decided to give the 6 a try...

    I bought the 6 that afternoon!

    A number of things sold me on the 6. The V6 is smooth and powerful (don't let that 220 HP fool you, it feels much stronger than that). The styling is unique and downright sexy. The interior was nicely appointed, with a lot of features for the price. Speaking of price, I was able to bargain down to $50 over invoice, not including the incentives.

    It's been almost 7 months and 9,000 miles later, and I still smile every morning when I start it up! I've had NO problems so far, and it still feels as tight as the day I bought it. Besides my daily driver, it's also gone on a few road trips of 250+ miles, and my wife and I both find it comfortable on long trips. It's such a fun car to drive, I'm always looking for open roads, and I find myself going 20-30 MPH over the speed limit without even trying! (Kids, don't try this at home.)

    Test drive the 6. Try out both the 4-cyl and V6 (a fine choice either way), and compare the price to the Passat and Altima, you won't be disappointed!

    Good luck.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    Bill: I would echo the past two responses. I was convinced that I was going to buy a Passat for about a year, but when the time actually came, I ended up with a Mazda6. The 6 was a much better value, especially loaded. I could not stand the turbo-lag on the 1.8 Passat and the 2.8 was simply too expensive. VW's have a mixed reputation, depending who you ask. I viewed the 6 as a European style car with Japanese reliability; although I don't think Mazda is as reliable as Honda or Toyota. The 6 is WAY more fun to drive than an Accord or Camry (I tested both as well).

    I have had some minor issues, adjusting to an automatic after driving stick for 12-years, sulphur smell issue (which they WILL resolve under warranty), and figuring out the ACC but the users here were able to get together and figure out the A/C vs. ACC :-)

    I would strongly recommend that you give it a good test drive, I think you'll be sold. I would NOT buy a used one. This could be a resale issue for you if you plan to sell it sometime soon. I plan to keep mine long enough not to care.
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    Bill-
    Here's yet one more satisfied 6 owner who considered/drove all the competition up and down the price spectrum. I also owned a 2000 Passat- don't be tempted, there is a lot more to the reliability horror stories than sour grapes, they are a reliability nightmare as they age. I owned a 2003 Accord EX-L coupe- excellent in all respects, esp. gas mileage. Got too cramped for growing kids, Accord sedan just too ugly from the rear view. Bought a '04 6S Hatch- the other posters are right-on: if you love to drive, need reliability and don't want to spend for an Acura or BMW, the 6 is the only real option. Ours has 5K miles, 0 problems, and I look forward to driving it every day. As a sales rep, I sometimes will drive 300+ miles in a day. The seat is supportive and has no odd-shape areas to bother the back (I have the leather). The auto trans is ok, a little odd off the line at times but not bothersome, manual mode works as good or better than the VW Tiptronic. And it runs just fine on 87 octane. The VW/Audi 1.8T, Acura's, and BMW all must run premium or they just don't run right. I plan on keeping this car 3 years and giving to my daughter so resale is not an issue; Mazda resale is admittedly lower than Honda/Toyota, but, why be bored for the sake of a few bucks years down the road? Best of luck in your decision.
  • car_luvrcar_luvr Member Posts: 1
    I have a Mazda6 wagon with 5 speed. My benchmark car is the '99 BMW 328i I owned for three years before my kids and dogs outgrew it. The Mazda is the closest to the bimmer of any car I've driven, despite being fwd and much larger. If that's not a total endorsement, I don't know what is.
  • bill1975bill1975 Member Posts: 19
    Well, I tested a 6 and two 3's today (the 4 door and hatchback). The 6 felt very responsive though once I started getting up to highway speeds it didnt have quite as much zip as the 3, but was fine when it got going. I like the body styling and gas milage of the 3 but I felt a little more cramped. Other than the seemingly cheap seat fabric and the odd layout of the a/c and stereo, I thought it was impressive. I'll definately try a few more. I see a lot of used ones down here for sale. For a 1-2 yr old car with only 15 - 20k miles the asking price isnt too bad. So we'll see...

    What I DON'T get is how the 6 gets good ratings over all in all the different categories in the Consumer Reports guide yet gets a rating of lower than average reliability. (the 3 gets the "best small car" recommendation).
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    "What I DON'T get is how the 6 gets good ratings over all in all the different categories in the Consumer Reports guide yet gets a rating of lower than average reliability. (the 3 gets the "best small car" recommendation)."

    CR has always been an enigma to me. I've used CR for research for all my major appliance and car purchases, but that's it. I don't ever take CR as the last word, I just take their ratings and weigh it against my personal needs/wants. I'd probably be stuck driving a Camry if I took them as the last word.

    Edmunds.com and the car magazines web sites are a much better source in terms of car research. IMHO, I'd still try and purchase a new 6, or even a leftover '04, I bet you'll still get an affordable deal. The 3 is a great choice as well, my wife is considering one to replace her (garbage) Neon.
  • escortownerescortowner Member Posts: 132
    Bill,

    I am in the Houston Area and I will say, if you look at the 2004's right now they are pushing them pretty hard. In fact, I bought mine for $18,000 OTD (but that included a college grad discount).

    I found that with the incentives you can get a new one for roughly the same as a used one. I have to note though, mine is pretty much scock with the exception od the sports package.

    I added a stereo and it is damn nice.

    If you are looking for a stick, I know there are a couple of places that would love to sell one down here in Houston. Go to Mazda's web site and type in Gillman, or Russel & Smith. Those two places were great. I ended up buying from Russell & Smith because of the location and the one they had in stock. But both were extremely up front with me - veery little haggling.

    Anyway,

    I think the CR numbers are skewed from non major repairs.

    hope this helps a little.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Time for another chat session with your fellow forum residents! Should be another fun hour as we discuss the automotive (and some not-so-automotive) issues of the day.

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  • rampedramped Member Posts: 358
    Don't sweat the reliability rating in CR. Those reflect a recall for a fuel sender unit on the 03 models. There was also a problem with the weatherstripping adhesive in some '03 models.

    I've owned Nissan, Toyota, Honda, Mitsubishi, and Acura over the past 25 years and my three Mazdas, including my '04 6s, are as reliable as any of them.
  • bill1975bill1975 Member Posts: 19
    As I'd rather not lug my tape measure around with me (its rather big) does anyone know the size of the trunk opening in the 6and the 3? I am not referring to the space IN the trunk, just the width of the opening itself. Note this is for the 4 door of each model, not the hatchback or wagon versions. Thanks.
  • bill1975bill1975 Member Posts: 19
    "I am in the Houston Area and I will say, if you look at the 2004's right now they are pushing them pretty hard. In fact, I bought mine for $18,000 OTD (but that included a college grad discount). "

    I will have to check prices/incentives up here a little more closely. I have noticed that there are a LOT of 03 and 04 6s used for sale. I checked several online and they're beling listed well below blue book price. What I dont understand is how these cars can be so relatively inexpensive, considering they are only a year old. Faster depreciation maybe? Good for the buyer, but as a few have noted, not so good if you're trying to sell. On the other hand, if the NEW ones are going for less, then theoretically the used ones should be less as well? I am lookng only at used ones as I can't afford a new one, and I don't want to take the depreciation hit. Heck it's new to me. Besides any car that I CAN afford brand new, I probably dont want anyway! (I refuse to drive a Kia)

    Think I'll pass on the trip to Houston for right now, we'll see what happens up here.

    Bill
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    "What I DON'T get is how the 6 gets good ratings over all in all the different categories in the Consumer Reports guide yet gets a rating of lower than average reliability. (the 3 gets the "best small car" recommendation)."

    The reason CR gives the 6 the overall rating of under average reliability is I'll break it down:

    I have the CR magazine in front of me right now too. For 03 the 6 got an average reliability rating in 3 trouble spot categories: Body Integrity(Squeaks/Rattles), Brakes, and Fuel(I think this was due to the fuel recall that Mazda had on some of their cars a couple of years ago.) I guess the 03 6 when compared to the average 03 model year cars in terms of reliability is worse than average. I guess the 03 6 for a 2 year old has more problems than other 03 models that are out on the road today. The 04 6 they gave a worse than average reliabity rating as well but the current issue of CR only rated reliability with 04 6's with 3,000 miles on them. The 04 6's reliability could bounce back to average in CR's next issue. Just to add something I guess when CR rated the 04 6's reliability in the October/November 2004 issue the 6's reliability in 3 trouble spot categories was above average(Electrical, body Integrity, and Body Hardware) and all the rest of the trouble spot categories were rated Excellent reliability. To go further into it even though for the 04 6 all trouble spots category were either rated above average or excellent reliability the overall rating was worse than average compared to the average 04 model. Remember the 6 was an all brand new model for 03 hence the first year problems. If I were buying a 6 today I would be worried about brakes. I have read problems(Problems & Solutions board)with 03 and 04 model 6's having brake problems(sqeauling)so maybe the brake problem does still exist with the 6. I see complaints about clutch problems with the 6 too. CR has rated the transmission in the 6 Excellent Reliability though.

    CR did a similar thing with the Mazda Tribute when it first came out. In 01 they rated it worse than average in reliability. In the next issue or they rated it worse than average reliability for the 02 model year. All the issue's after that they have rated it average or above average reliability. I think its a Ford thing maybe. Ford has bad reliability records for first year models(ala current generation Focus, LS, Tribe/Escape, and Explorer.) The Mazda 6 is built out of a Ford plant so hence the first year problems as well like I mentioned before the 6 being an all new car. Ford has had a tough time with first years models but in their second year models Ford seems to get those kinks worked out . The Focus(00-04) and LS(00-04)Explorer(02-04) and Trib/Escape(01-04)had bad first year reliability but after the first year they were average relliability. Ford has yet to get the kinks worked out of the current version of the Expedition though. The last generation Expedition had better reliability than the current model looking at CR's ratings.

    Mazda's plant in Japan is much better at working at kinks with first year models than Ford's plant in Flat Rock with Mazda cars. I think think from the 2nd year models on Flat Rocks and Mazda's plant in Japan is about equal in terms of assembling a car. It just takes Flat Rock's Plant longer to work out kinks with cars than Mazda plant in Japan. I kinda mixed about that now though the RX-8 is assembled in Japan and the 04 models have been out for 2 years and CR rated the RX-8 worse than average reliability. I recently have talked to an RX-8 owner and he has said he has had no problems with the car. The 99 Protege has always been rated above average in reliability and that was first year of the last generation Protege. The 00 MPV has always been rated above average in reliability until the last couple cars when reliability has slipped to way under avaerge due to the tranny problems. The 98 626 was rated above average and was made in Flat Rock but that wasn't really a first year model. That was just a carryover of the 93-97 626. It wasn't a brand spankin new model like the 03 6 was.

    Sorry to gab on but I am just trying to get everybody to understands CR's rating system among other things.
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