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Mazda6 Wagon

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Comments

  • ebeneben Member Posts: 26
    The directions in the owner's manual for my 2004 wagon for replacing the rear wiper blade are incorrect. Anyone have info on the correct method?
  • canuckercanucker Member Posts: 19
    I presently drive a 2002 Toyota Highlander and I’m in the market for a new CUV/Wagon. I’ve narrowed my choices down to a 07 Hyundai Santa Fe and Mazda 6 Sport Wagon.

    Took a Mazda 6 Sport Wagon GT-V6 out for a night time test drive and overall was pleased with the looks, comfort, drive and performance of the vehicle as much as you can be in a short drive. The one negative and it’s a big one concerned the red lighting. Now both my wife and I are in our fifties and our eyes aren’t what they use to be but surprisingly all the gauges and center stack controls looked quite blurry to both of us no matter how we adjusted the dimmer.

    Maybe you get use to the red lighting after a while but I don’t feel like taking the gamble on this one, so onto the Santa Fe and see if the blue dash lighting is less blurry.
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    We are also in our fifties and we like the red gauge lights! I find them very clear and kind of fun. But if you can't see them it's definitely not the vehicle for you!
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Are the wagon and hatchback body styles going to continue to be available in the U.S. after the upcoming redesign, or will Mazda, like most other mainstream manufacturers, try to "move us up" into their CUV's, by giving us the choice to buy a sedan or CUV (or from another manufacturer)?

    Granted, Mazda's CUV's are nice too, but they are in a large crowd of many choices. The 6 wagon and hatchback stand out as really well-equipped and fun to drive, efficient alternatives for folks who don't need to move all that extra metal around with them to have fun, and versatility.

    Has anyone heard?
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    I don't think Mazda is too interested in an efficinet alternative. If they were they would offer the 4-cyl in the wagon. They want to sell high profit CUV/SUV models.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    The 6 Hatchback (but not wagon) is currently available with either a 4 or 6 cylinder engine (even in GT trim) as an "efficient alternative" to the CUV/SUV. I hope both HB or Wagon body styles continue to be offered after the redesign, although I haven't found any information on them yet.

    One would expect that (put in any business name here) Mazda would rather sell their higher-priced, higher-profit models. That's business. However when you're the consumer, it's good to be able to look for the choice.
  • mikes2mikes2 Member Posts: 43
    We're also in the market and looking at both the CX-7 and 6 Wagon. I'm in agreement with the comments about above the pros and cons of each.

    That said, if we go with Mazda, I think we'd probably end of with the Wagon. What tips it for us is the issue of reliability. I don't know where I read it (Consumer Reports? Car and Driver?) but there is a significant decrease in problems with cars after year one (regardless of manufacturer or model), and even in the remaining years, the rate of problems reduces each year. There is even a marked decrease within the first year itself as the manufacturers fix bugs found in the initial product runs. Since the Wagon's been out for a number of years, but the CX-7 is fairly new, I think we'd go with the Wagon. I know it's just statistics, but my gut says any new model is going to have more problems than an older model.

    Our car will be the family hauler used every day and we'd have almost no tolerance for having to take it in, and really no tolerance at all for anything that couldn't be fixed same day. Another, though less critical factor is the combination of poor mileage and premium gas in the CX-7 - that's a combination we're tired of in our current '00 Max SE.

    In any event, that's my 2 cents!
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    If you are tired of the gas mileage in your Maxima you will not want the Mazda6 wagon. I had both, and the mileage in the Mazda was significantly worse than my Maxima (even with the premium fuel for the Maxima). I loved the car and it was very practical but 18 mpg in winter around town (vs. 23 for the Max around town and 27 highway)really got old. I didn't like the fact that I could rarely go more than 280 miles without a fill-up. I think I'm going to look for a smaller, more fuel efficient wagon. It's really a shame because the Mazda6 does so many things well. And by the way, 2 1/2 years with nary a repair.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • lott42_sflott42_sf Member Posts: 5
    I need some help. I can't decide between the two years and models. For most things that I read, there's not much difference between the "like" models except maybe a couple of extra air-bags and a slightly different warranty between the two.

    So it looks like the rebates are the big thing. I believe their 4,750 for the 2006 and 2,000 for 2007 as of February. I was thinking about buying in Aug/Sept. Do you think the rebates on the 2007 will be that high by then??

    Also, do most people think the cloth seats are good enough to last for 5-6 years and how comfortable are they compared to leather?? I live in a hotter location so "sticking" to the seats is not a thing I'm looking forward to.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Last summer rebates got up to $3000 around June-Sept. I think there was $500-1000 in additional dealer incentives at times.

    Not a wagon, but I just got $5000 off MSRP or $3400 to $3800 below invoice (including the $2000 rebate) on a 2007 Mazda6 in Jan. So you never know when you might get lucky and happen to ask for the right price at the right time. About $4000 off was readily avaialable in my area...the extra $1000 was apparently because they wanted to sell one more unit.

    I was prepared to wait for higher rebates, but since I got within $500 of the lowest price I thought I might hope to see, decided to buy now.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    My wagon's mileage has been in the range of 19.4 to 28.3 MPG since I have owned it (2+ years), with an average of 24.5 MPG. I average 338 miles between fuel stops and put in an average of 13.8G each time. Most of my lowest numbers occurred during the first few months of ownership, since then I rarely get less then 23 MPG.

    My Outback wagon does slightly better on the mileage, as it has an H4 but I think the AWD and AT probably reduce it's potential a bit.

    No repairs needed for me yet either.
  • jpd52jpd52 Member Posts: 6
    I am glad to hear you're getting an average of 24 mpg. I just got a 2007 6 Sportwagon. I like the car alot, but right off the bat I am seeing less mileage than the Volvo V70 T5 I came from. Just about 20, but it is brand new. 800 miles. I wanted to know if you have run the 5-20 oil recommended on the motor. I would like to use synthetic, and have always run 5-30 Amsoil as I have a dealer relationship with them, but could get 5-20 if it runs better. It sure drives alot better than the Volvo, but I hope I pick up a few more miles per gallon.

    Thanks,
    Jon Pousette-Dart
    NYC
  • ccwinslowccwinslow Member Posts: 29
    Don't get cloth seats. Unless Mazda has changed them dramatically since 2004, I've heard terrible stories about them pilling before their time. I once swore I'd never get leather seats for the same reason you mentioned, but I LOVE them (2004 Mazda 6 wagon). They're perforated, if that makes a difference, and they really aren't miserably hot like you'd expect. I live in NC, and we get more than our share of temps in the 90s and high humidity.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Unless Mazda has changed them dramatically since 2004, I've heard terrible stories about them pilling before their time.

    This is true, the '03-'05 cloth isn't very good, at least based on other owners accounts (my cloth seats in my '04 are still in good shape, with no pilling or fading, and this is with 45K miles on them).

    For '06, the Mazda6 was freshened both inside and out, the seats were redesigned and upgraded, and the cloth material was upgraded significantly. I haven't heard any complaints about then yet...
  • otis54302otis54302 Member Posts: 1
    Tomorrow I pick up my 07 Mazda Wagon. This marks my 4th Mazda purchase in the past 20 years. Needless to say, there was no hesitation or second guesses when it came to turning down any extended warranties. Question for y'all. I-Pod integration module. Something a guy can pick up after market and through some source other than the dealer? Simple as plug and play, or is there some funky installation required by the dealer? Not sure if I want to spend $160 + for this adder, but would love to have it.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I believe the OE module and the aftermarket modules are very similar and have basically the same function. the cheapest I've seen the A/M modules is about $125. Trussville Mazda has the OE module for $116 with free shipping.
  • garywigarywi Member Posts: 54
    I drove the Subaru Outback and Forester today. Nice, but kind of expensive. I looked at some used Mazda 6 wagons. I can get a 2005 automatic for $14K, and they have 5 of them at this dealer. My concerns: Why are they so cheap? Depreciated $10K in two years? I can't get the Mazda 4 cyl engine which is Japenese, but only the Ford V6. I don't like anything about Ford. Also, I am reading people get less than 20mpg? Does the new 6speed auto help that? Also, why have I never seen a Mazda wagon on the road?

    Someone please sell me on why I should buy one. Also looking at all the small SUVs, but I am liking the wagon idea, but few make a wagon anymore.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Why are they so cheap? Depreciated $10K in two years?

    They're not selling very well, at least compared to the SUVs and crossovers that are now storming the market, but it's a great deal if you need to haul stuff and don't want the bad handling, gas-guzzling traits of an SUV or most crossovers.

    I can't get the Mazda 4 cyl engine which is Japenese, but only the Ford V6. I don't like anything about Ford.

    The Duratec in the 6 is indeed a 3.0L from Ford, but Mazda did their own tuning and design to better suit their needs. The Duratec as a whole is a very reliable engine, having been in the Probe, Contour, and Taurus for years, with no major problems. My V6 has got 45K miles and still runs very well, with no issues to report.

    Also, I am reading people get less than 20mpg? Does the new 6speed auto help that?

    Can't help you here, since I've got the sedan. I have heard that the manual gets better mileage, that is, if you can find one... Which leads me to:

    Also, why have I never seen a Mazda wagon on the road?

    Yes, they are rare, but they're out there. I know of two of them that live near me. To me, that's part of their appeal, not having everyone else on the block own one.

    Hope this helps. Good luck with whatever you decide.
  • calvin1962calvin1962 Member Posts: 34
    I bought a used 2004 Mazda 6 wagon about 6 months ago. I am really happy with everything except the mileage. I expected a little more than the 19-20 mpg I get. I guess it is a little more disappointing since the low rpm power is not great. I stick would probably help both issues.
  • jpd52jpd52 Member Posts: 6
    The reason to own one of these, is they are the best kept secret on the road. Just bought a 2007 6 Sportswagon, and it is twice the car the Volvo V70 T5 I got rid of in terms of everything you could think of, for half the price
    Jon
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I can get a 2005 automatic for $14K, and they have 5 of them at this dealer. My concerns: Why are they so cheap? Depreciated $10K in two years?

    May not have depreciated as much as you think, since they were probably being sold with big rebates and discounts two years ago, just as they are now.

    New leftover 2006 Mazda6 wagons appear to be advertised at $16,500 around here. A dealer here (WI) has an ad saying they have 30 of them. With $2000 in rebates available, even a new 2007 Value Edition could be bought for $21,000 and probably even less.

    You do have to get the V6 in the Wagon, if you want the 4 cyl you could get the hatchback, though.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Wow... like spring today! Hopefully real life won't intrude and we'll see you at the chat!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • mikerookmikerook Member Posts: 1
    Can you provide more info about this dealer? I'm looking for the base 06 wagon and can't find any in my area.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    It was Russ Darrow in Milwaukee, WI.

    From the inventory search on mazdausa.com (you might try a search on there in your area, too) looks like there is one base '06 with manual and another dealer in my area (Amato) has a base '06 with automatic.
  • paysonpayson Member Posts: 32
    We have an 05 auto wagon with 12,000 miles on it. We get 21-22 mpg around town, and 27-29 mpg highway. Ours has the 6 speed transmission. We traded in a Sienna van for it, and are very happy.
  • ccwinslowccwinslow Member Posts: 29
    I bought an '04 (in August '04), have put 30K+ miles on it, and have loved every minute of driving it. The handling is superb, it's comfortable, and yes, there are few on the road. It still turns heads and gets comments. I'd buy another if they still make them when this one wears out. The mileage isn't great (manual trans), but I'm a bit of a lead foot ... and it's the car's fault. :)
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Sorry jpd52, I've been away for a while. If you're still around here's my answer to your question...

    Until last fall, I was using Mobil1 5W-20 which is full synthetic. Last oil change in November, I put in Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20, which is also full synthetic. Prior to that, only Mobil1 5W-20 was sold by the case in my area, so when the Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 cases appeared for less money, I switched.

    I change both oil and filter at about 6mo/7000mi.

    Hopefully your car's mileage will increase slightly with age, mine did.
  • jpd52jpd52 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the reply. I am behind your footsteps in terms
    of oil and mileage. I will be putting in Amsoil 5W-20 from here on in, and in fact my mileage has gone up to about 25 mpg general driving.
    Thanks
  • ganderiteganderite Member Posts: 9
    My first exposure to the M6 Wagon was when I drove by a dealer two years ago and saw one on the lot. It looked great. I swung in and asked questions and got a brochure. It has been on my list of cars to consider ever since.

    The only negative that came to mind was the V6 Ford heritage. Durability and gas guzzling concerns. I have since learned, thanks to this Forum, that only the block is Ford, with all the bits and pieces being unique to Mazda.

    Reports on mileage vary dramatically on this board. I suspect it has to do with differences in driving styles. That said, I doubt it will do as well as my 2005 Monte Carlo (3400 V6 auto) which gets 27 mpg in regular fill ups and 33 on the highway (and I drive fast).

    I bought a NEW 2006 basic wagon yesterday. I would have preferred an upscale with the leather seats, but none could be found with such a good price. I searched on cars.com and found several new 2006 basic wagons for $18,500. I chose a Pebble Ash (won’t show the dirt). As I was closing the deal by phone, the salesman offered me a further $500 discount because of some deal they had that was about to expire. So I got a new 2006 wagon for $18,000 plus a $350 dealer fee.

    There are some other new '06 basic wagons at that price out there. There are also at least 2 brand new 2005 wagons available from dealers.

    I think I done good.

    By the way, I live in Canada, so will drive the car home and pay the usual GST/PST tax at the border (the same tax I would pay if I bought the car in Canada) plus a special federal import tax of about $150. The car has to be certified that it meets Canadian standards (it does). This certification is a free service at any Canadian Tire store.
    The only difference in this car from one sold in Canada is that the air bag warning labels won’t be bi-lingual with French and the speedo/odometer will be in miles instead of klicks. No big deal. The only other difference will be the fatter wallet in my back pocket. $6,000 makes a big lump.

    I look forward to posting my first drive impressions. In a week or so I will drive it home, a nice little 600 mile drive.

    I have a couple of questions to ask of those with ownership and technical experience.

    I live on a farm. My driveways is 500 yards long. We take snow tires very seriously here. One poster mentioned the high cost of 17” snow tires. Can I buy some 2005 Mazda 15” alloy wheels and use those for snow tires? Cheaper wheels and cheaper tires. Are the stud patterns the same?

    The 626 automatic transmission (Ford) was a weak point of the car. One big help was to install a transmission cooler. This costs less than $100. I was wondering if this would be a good idea for the M6? My idea is to do it now, before trannies start to fail. Anyone here know for sure that the cooler on the M6 is adequate? Is the ’06 automatic a Ford product?
  • ganderiteganderite Member Posts: 9
    I found this on a test drive report of a 2004 Wagon in a Canadian magazine.

    Fuel consumption, according to Transport Canada, is 12.6 l/100 km (23 mpg) in the city and 8.2 l/100 km (35 mpg) on the highway, a bit thirsty.

    The Imperial gallon is about 20% bigger than the U.S. gallon, so the gov't estimate is about 28 miles highway to the US gallon. Is this higher than what you get on a highway trip?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    live on a farm. My driveways is 500 yards long. We take snow tires very seriously here. One poster mentioned the high cost of 17” snow tires. Can I buy some 2005 Mazda 15” alloy wheels and use those for snow tires? Cheaper wheels and cheaper tires. Are the stud patterns the same?

    I'm not too sure if 15" wheels will fit over the brakes without any clearance problems. I guess it depends on the wheels themselves. My advice is to either invest in a set of 16" steelies, or a used set of 16" wheels from a Mazda 3 or 6. I've got 16" steelies with 205/60-16 Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2s, and they've been excellent in the three seasons that I've used them.
  • ganderiteganderite Member Posts: 9
    You are right. There is the question of clearing the brake assemblies. I mispoke. I can get a set of Mazda 16" alloys cheap (not 15") and could use these for snow tires instead of the 17" wheels on the 06. Or at least, I hope I can. As I understand it, the wagon used 17" wheels but some '06 models still use 16". Unless the brakes are different, I should be ok. My concern was that maybe the stud patterns were different. Unlikely, but no harm in asking.

    Funny you should mention the Alpins. I had a set on my Buick Rendezvous for the first winter. We found them good winter tires except for deep snow - which is our driveway problem. Once we got out on the highway, they handled slush and cold very well. I replaced them with cheap WalMart tires with real agressive treads. Noisy, but the cars here with those tires are like snowmobiles.

    We have nine cars here, and all except the Corvette are used year round, so we get a good feel for which snow tires work best for snow. The Wal MArt and Canadian Tire snows seem best - and they are the cheapest. Go figure.
  • calvin1962calvin1962 Member Posts: 34
    I bought a set of 17" mazda 6 wheels off Ebay and great snow tires off the internet. I had about $600 total finto the project. We average about 120" of snow per winter and thsi was a great investment!
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    I haven't dealt with deep snow very often, but being in the upstate NY area, we deal with snow on the roads quite more than other areas, and the Alpins have been great for me, especially on snow-covered highways, which I drive often.
  • ganderiteganderite Member Posts: 9
    I used the Alpins on my Monte Carlo. On the highway they were quiet and gave excellent braking and steering. But not so good in deep snow.

    The agressive tread tires are better in snow but noisy and a bit mushing on handling. A compromise, I guess.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    For snows, I'm using 16" Dunlop Winter Sport M2's mounted on relatively cheap alloys (~$72 per) from TireRack. The alloys weren't much more expensive than steels, they're lighter, and they look much nicer. The Dunlops are a huge improvement on snow/ice over the stock Michelins, which were marginal at best. They are classified by TireRack as a winter performance tire, so the tread is less aggressive than something like a Blizzak, and the rubber doesn't seem as soft. Therefore, they are certainly not tops for snow traction but they are also not too squishy so I can throw the car around corners quickly without getting the sensation that I'm driving on marshmallows, which for me would take a lot of the joy out of driving this car.

    On the transmissions, I used to own a 626 and I believe the I4 626 auto was a notorious-for-trouble Ford unit, the 6-cyl 626 auto was a seemingly more reliable Jatco unit, at least some of the Mazda6 autos also got a Jatco 5-speed, and I'm not sure what the 6-speed auto is but I think it is from yet another manufacturer. There are posts about strangeness with the Mazda6 automatics, but they seem to be more related to electronic issues than mechanical issues. Both of my Mazdas were/are equipped with manual trannys so I haven't followed those issues very closely.

    At any rate, congrats on your purchase and I hope you enjoy it.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    It's Tuesday, so that means Mazda chat night. If you haven't joined us before, stop in tonight for a little fun with the group!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    They are classified by TireRack as a winter performance tire, so the tread is less aggressive than something like a Blizzak, and the rubber doesn't seem as soft. Therefore, they are certainly not tops for snow traction but they are also not too squishy so I can throw the car around corners quickly without getting the sensation that I'm driving on marshmallows, which for me would take a lot of the joy out of driving this car.

    That's also what the Alpins are classified as well. Better winter traction without the loss of driving feel (or fun).
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Yep, I was interested the Alpins, but they were not available in the size I wanted at TireRack when I needed to buy, so I ordered the Dunlops instead. We use Michelin X-Ice snows on our Outback, which are not classified as a winter performance tire but they do have less aggressive tread and are not very squishy so they help the AWD bite somewhat better than all-seasons on snow/ice without compromising much.
  • ganderiteganderite Member Posts: 9
    I am blessed with a wife that can navigate by direction, as opposed to turning at known landmarks. More than once she has said she would like one of those digital compasses available in new cars. The last two new cars did not get one because they were only available as part of an expensive upgrade including things we did not need or want.

    A salesman just told me I can buy the mirror with the compass and repalce the standard mirror. He quoted $200 which seems like an OK price for something that would please the wife.

    I assume the compass needs some kind of electrical input. Would the wiring harness of a base 2006 wagon have the hook up for a compass?

    I pick up the new wagon in Cincinnati in three days and will drive it back to Toronto. I have never driven a Mazda6, so look forward to the drive. My concerns are seating comfort for a 6 footer and gas economy.
  • stkntrafficstkntraffic Member Posts: 172
    I have a MazdaSpeed6 with the mirror compass. It has an LED display that shows the direction (N, NE, S, etc). It also has an autodim feature that darkens the mirror when someone comes up behind you with their brights on,

    I'm sure it's the same one they want to sell you... I think it was a $180 option on my 6, so the price is in the ballpark.

    It haa a thin power cord in the back that goes under the windshield trim. I'll bet you a Canadian nickel your wagon is already prewired... I think all of the 6's are.

    Nice choice on the wagon, I almost bought one myself, but after driving the 'Speed I was hooked on boost.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    They aren't pre-wired but the power lead is pretty easy to install.
  • jtb2jtb2 Member Posts: 2
    I also recently bought a 06 Wagon, Sport Model, the compass and auto dim mirror came as an option. It is my understanding that this is also a dealer installed option (unlike the roof rails). The list on the auto-dim mirror and compass is $175.00 (on the 06 model year, the mirror with the homelink is slightly higher). Although I did not order the compass mirror as an option, it has come in handy during recent driving trips, the autodim mirror is also helpful at night. I am very pleased with the wagon so far. As for gas mileage I have not yet calculated an accurate mpg, but it appears to be getting approx. 20mpg in mixed driving (the car still has under 2,000 miles on the odo).
  • ganderiteganderite Member Posts: 9
    I read this on the Mazda 6 Club forum.

    The new 6 speed ATX in the 2005 Mazda 6s's use a Toyota Type T-IV fluid known as JWS3309. This fluid can not mix with Mercon or Dexron fluids. A single half a cup of the WRONG fluid will completely destroy the transmission by causing the clutch packs to lock up, requiring a complete rebuild of the transmission to restore functionality.

    The fluid is "supposedly" gold in color, and should not be mistaken for the standard red colored Mercon V fluid. Regardless, please make sure both the dealer, and whatever service department your using (especially quickie lubes as they sometimes "top off" fluids), is aware of this difference, and that failure to adhere to the stock fluid specifications WILL RESULT in TRANSMISSION FAILURE.

    Once again, this only applies to the 6 speed 2005 Mazda 6s Aisin Warner Automatic Transmission.

    Note: There is probably a fine print oil spec written on the trans dipstick.
  • ganderiteganderite Member Posts: 9
    I drove my new 2006 M6 wagon home yesterday. This was a 1200 mile non-stop trip, so I was able form some initial impressions of the car.

    Me: Each of us relates to a car from a different background and perspective. I am a Canadian who sometimes buys cars in the USA, if there is a price or condition advantage. For used cars there usually is. Arizona cars are rust free. For new cars, US Big3 cars are usually cheaper in Canada. My Corvettes were about $7,000 cheaper here, taking into account the difference in the dollar. Imports are usually about identically priced, although the model selection here is more limited.

    I wanted a Mazda6 wagon, and the dealers here are sold out – so in effect there are no rebates to take advantage of. There are still a few available in the USA. I got mine for $17,900 plus a $380 dealer fee. That saved me about $7,000 Cdn ($6,000 USD) off list.

    I live on a farm property with my wife and two adult children. There are three houses on the property. Each of us owns two cars, except me. I think I have 5. We share cars, matching the occasion to the best vehicle, so I have some understanding of a variety of cars. Parked out side are: 87 Corvette, 86 Celica with only 90K on it, 92 Tercel with a 150 hp twin cam, 92 Pathfinder, 93 Corolla Wagon, 95 MR2 Beams, 96 Renault Cube van, 97 Pontiac mini van, 03 Buick Rendezvous (base model, FWD only), 05 Monte Carlo.

    The M6 Wagon. A base model “Pebble Ash” (sort of a silver-gold metallic). The drive home was on 4 lane divided highway all the way. Most of the time cruise speed was around 75mph (125kph). But I ran into a snow storm and at one time was barely ably to do 30 and spent a couple hours only doing 40.

    Gas mileage – filled the tank 4 times. Mileage was:
    26.4 mpg (US gallons) (31.7 mpg Imp gallons) (Note: The Imperial gallon used elsewhere in the world is 20% larger.)
    27.2 (32.6)
    25.8 (31.0)
    26.7 (32.0)
    In other words, mileage was good, but not great. I used cruise control about half the time on the high speed cruising. Since gas is so cheap in North America I guess mileage is not that big an issue. I would not have wanted to use this car last summer in France where gas was in the order of $8.00 a gallon.

    The gas gauge was very linear and accurate. This is something GM does not get right. My GM mini vans go 200 kms before the needle starts to move. When it says ¾ full the tank is actually only ¼. When it says ¼ I have to be looking for a gas station real close by. Each quarter on the Mazda gauge was the same – about 125 miles.

    Brakes. Seemed unremarkable. They worked well. The ABS has a very rapid pulse to it. Not as smooth as a Mercedes but much less noticeable than a Corvette. Just enough to let you know you have gone over the adhesion limit. I liked the brakes.

    Traction control. At one point I was driving in a heavy snowfall with about 3 inches on the highway. Traffic was light, so I could drive any speed I wanted. I wanted to drive about 40 mph. Sometimes a yellow light would flash on the dash. It was the Traction Control light. It was reducing engine power to stop wheel spin. It was effective and unobtrusive. If I wanted full power, there is a button I could have pushed.

    Headlights. They have adequate illumination. Not as good as my Buick Rendezvous. The Mazda6 uses very small lights with small reflectors. Given a choice, I would take more light every time.

    I like to drive with my headlights and tail lights on during the daytime, but sometimes forget to turn them off and kill the battery. With cars with a light sensor it is easy to cover the sensor with a small piece of black tape, so the lights come on with the ignition and go off automatically.

    The US version Mazda6 does not have daytime running lights nor does it have a light sensor. However, I discovered that I can just leave the light switch on because the lights are turned off 30 seconds after the key is removed.

    Instrumentation. The gauges are all easy to read. I much prefer analogs to digital. The car does not have an oil pressure gauge nor an oil temperature gauge. I have cars with both and really like the information. The oil temperature gauge tells me when the engine has actually warmed up – about 5 minutes after the water temperature has stabilized. If the engine gets low on oil the oil temp gauge shows the problem long before the pressure gauge. I regard oil pressure warning lights as just about useless. They tell me why the engine just blew. In fact, that happened to me about a month ago while helping a friend retrieve a 93 V6 Cavalier.

    I am a pilot and am used to scanning a full set of gauges so I know what is going on in real time. I would like to have more gauges and a warning buzzer if any gauge moved into the red.

    I really like the outside air temperature read out. It could be a life or death gauge. Coming home I watched the OAT (Outside Air Temp) go from +4C to –4C. When it hit about -2C I started to see rear wheel cars in the ditch. At -3C I started to see FWD cars in the ditch and I knew it was time to really slow down. The gauge can be set to read temp in either C or F.

    I did a little map reading at night. Each overhead light has a button to push to shine a light on the lap of either the driver or the passenger/navigator. It worked well.

    Radio. Usually one of the first thing I do to a new car is scrap the speakers and install a set of Infinity speakers. They only cost about $50 a pair (on eBay) and dramatically improve sound quality. My audio tech tells me the factory speakers are $5.00 speakers – retail. This radio had pretty good sound. I will compare sound to another car before deciding to switch. The speakers may be just fine. If so, that will be a first. This is the base radio set up – not the Bose.

    Handling. I was either driving straight on a highway or limping in a snow storm, so did not throw the car around at all. Handling seem perfectly fine. It felt quite secure at 80 mph. Being a new car, I did not want to drive it fast before the engine has been broken in. That said, if I want to drive fast, there are probably better cars in the driveway, but the M6 seems perfectly fine at ordinary highway speeds. It was not wind sensitive like a 240Z or a minivan or camber sensitive like a Corvette.

    Comfort. I just spent a day in the car. Could not have done it if it was not comfortable. I am 6 feet, 250 pounds. I would have preferred that the seat pan was two inches longer. It only supported about half my thighs. However, the electric adjust allowed me to tilt the pan to the best abgle. Leg, head and shoulder room was good. It is easy to get in and out. (Compared to a Corvette, anything else is easy.)

    The interior noise is low. I could hear the rear tires more than I would have liked, but that is typical of a wagon. Sedans are always quieter for that reason. I much prefe
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    FYI..

    I just confirmed there will be no wagon in the US. for 2008
  • ganderiteganderite Member Posts: 9
    I drove my new 2006 M6 wagon home yesterday. This was a 1200 mile non-stop trip, so I was able form some initial impressions of the car.

    Me: Each of us relates to a car from a different background and perspective. I am a Canadian who sometimes buys cars in the USA, if there is a price or condition advantage. For used cars there usually is. Arizona cars are rust free. For new cars, US Big3 cars are usually cheaper in Canada. My Corvettes were about $7,000 cheaper here, taking into account the difference in the dollar. Imports are usually about identically priced, although the model selection here is more limited.

    I wanted a Mazda6 wagon, and the dealers here are sold out – so in effect there are no rebates to take advantage of. There are still a few available in the USA. I got mine for $17,900 plus a $380 dealer fee. That saved me about $7,000 Cdn ($6,000 USD) off list. The car is a basic wagon with automatic trans.

    I live on a farm property with my wife and two adult children. There are three houses on the property. Each of us owns two cars, except me. I think I have 5. We share cars, matching the occasion to the best vehicle, so I have some understanding of a variety of cars. Parked out side are: 87 Corvette, 86 Celica with only 90K on it, 92 Tercel with a 150 hp twin cam, 92 Pathfinder, 93 Corolla Wagon, 95 MR2 Beams, 96 Renault Cube van, 97 Pontiac mini van, 03 Buick Rendezvous (base model, FWD only), 05 Monte Carlo.

    The M6 Wagon. A base model “Pebble Ash” (sort of a silver-gold metallic). The drive home was on 4 lane divided highway all the way. Most of the time cruise speed was around 75mph (125kph). But I ran into a snow storm and at one time was barely ably to do 30 and spent a couple hours only doing 40.

    Gas mileage – filled the tank 4 times. Mileage was:
    26.4 mpg (US gallons) (31.7 mpg Imp gallons) (Note: The Imperial gallon used elsewhere in the world is 20% larger.)
    27.2 (32.6)
    25.8 (31.0)
    26.7 (32.0)
    In other words, mileage was good, but not great. I used cruise control about half the time on the high speed cruising. Since gas is so cheap in North America I guess mileage is not that big an issue. I would not have wanted to use this car last summer in France where gas was in the order of $8.00 a gallon.

    The gas gauge was very linear and accurate. This is something GM does not get right. My GM mini vans go 200 kms before the needle starts to move. When it says ¾ full the tank is actually only ¼. When it says ¼ I have to be looking for a gas station real close by. Each quarter on the Mazda gauge was the same – about 125 miles.

    Brakes. Seemed unremarkable. They worked well. The ABS has a very rapid pulse to it. Not as smooth as a Mercedes but much less noticeable than a Corvette. Just enough to let you know you have gone over the adhesion limit. I liked the brakes.

    Traction control. At one point I was driving in a heavy snowfall with about 3 inches on the highway. Traffic was light, so I could drive any speed I wanted. I wanted to drive about 40 mph. Sometimes a yellow light would flash on the dash. It was the Traction Control light. It was reducing engine power to stop wheel spin. It was effective and unobtrusive. If I wanted full power, there is a button I could have pushed.

    Headlights. They have adequate illumination. Not as good as my Buick Rendezvous. The Mazda6 uses very small lights with small reflectors. Given a choice, I would take more light every time.

    I like to drive with my headlights and tail lights on during the daytime, but sometimes forget to turn them off and kill the battery. With cars with a light sensor it is easy to cover the sensor with a small piece of black tape, so the lights come on with the ignition and go off automatically.

    The US version Mazda6 does not have daytime running lights nor does it have a light sensor. However, I discovered that I can just leave the light switch on because the lights are turned off 30 seconds after the key is removed.

    Instrumentation. The gauges are all easy to read. I much prefer analogs to digital. The car does not have an oil pressure gauge nor an oil temperature gauge. I have cars with both and really like the information. The oil temperature gauge tells me when the engine has actually warmed up – about 5 minutes after the water temperature has stabilized. If the engine gets low on oil the oil temp gauge shows the problem long before the pressure gauge. I regard oil pressure warning lights as just about useless. They tell me why the engine just blew. In fact, that happened to me about a month ago while helping a friend retrieve a 93 V6 Cavalier.

    I am a pilot and am used to scanning a full set of gauges so I know what is going on in real time. I would like to have more gauges and a warning buzzer if any gauge moved into the red.

    I really like the outside air temperature read out. It could be a life or death gauge. Coming home I watched the OAT (Outside Air Temp) go from +4C to –4C. When it hit about -2C I started to see rear wheel cars in the ditch. At -3C I started to see FWD cars in the ditch and I knew it was time to really slow down. The gauge can be set to read temp in either C or F.

    I did a little map reading at night. Each overhead light has a button to push to shine a light on the lap of either the driver or the passenger/navigator. It worked well.

    Heater/Ventilation Some cars deliver heat much faster than others. Our Toyotas seem to give heat by the time we get to the end of the driveway. Did not check this feature since car was warm when delivered. Heat was adequate, but it was only around the freezing mark. Don't know how it would handle 20 below. The fan was not noisy. Our Buick has a terrible fan noise. The heater ducts allow air to be aimed all over the palce. I always use the two outside vents to aim at the side windows, to keep them clear.

    The car allows a choice of recirculated air or fresh air. Unless fresh air is selected a car will tend to fog up. You can always spot the cars running on recirculate. All fogged up.

    Radio. Usually one of the first thing I do to a new car is scrap the speakers and install a set of Infinity speakers. They only cost about $50 a pair (on eBay) and dramatically improve sound quality. My audio tech tells me the factory speakers are $5.00 speakers – retail. This radio had pretty good sound. I will compare sound to another car before deciding to switch. The speakers may be just fine. If so, that will be a first. This is the base radio set up – not the Bose.

    Handling. I was either driving straight on a highway or limping in a snow storm, so did not throw the car around at all. Handling seem perfectly fine. It felt quite secure at 80 mph. Being a new car, I did not want to drive it fast before the engine has been broken in. That said, if I want to drive fast, there are probably better cars in the driveway, but the M6 seems perfectly fine at ordinary highway speeds. It was not win
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    It's Tuesday, and for those of you new to the forums, that means it's time for our weekly Mazda chat. Stop in this evening to meet and greet some of your fellow forums members, talk about the cars, share some CarSpace photos and videos, and in general have a good time!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • d_hyperd_hyper Member Posts: 130
    Thanks for a notice... How dare they?!
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Mazda’s high-performance sedan, the Mazdaspeed6, will not continue as a 2008 model. The wagon version of the Mazda6 is another casualty of Mazda’s thinning 2008 lineup. Both were popular among a small niche of fans but didn’t find a wide audience. Mazda is also trimming the current Mazda6 lineup because the model will be significantly redesigned for 2009.

    The 2008 Mazda6 sedan and hatchback will get a tire pressure monitoring system standard for 2008, but little else has changed. A Bose stereo system is standard in the Touring trim level, 17-inch wheels are standard on the i Sport trim and there’s a standard alarm system on the Sport VE and Touring trims.
This discussion has been closed.