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Comments
FWIW, on this board, there's been about an 8% (per juice) rate of failure reported. YMMV.
DaveM
Your 2002 should be fine. I haven't come across any of those. It's mostly Phase I engines that were revved a lot.
-juice
MNSteve
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Chalk another one up for Patti and her crew (CDS)
-Dave
Greg
Greg
My guess is that it's either a wheel bearing or the tires. First thing I'd do is get some good tires on there, check the pressures, etc. Could it be an exhaust leak? Have you checked the fluid in the ATF? Do you know the previous owner?
-mike
For the most part, 2.5 DOHC are phase I and 2.5L SOHC are phase II. The Phase I and II actually refer to the block. There are some late production 2.5L DOHC that have a phase II block.
DaveM
I was thinking wheel bearings, too, but on a Legacy GT that would be rare. Maybe it is just the tires.
Let's not compare a GT with Minus One wheels and tires to a stock Solara. The 15" tires probably have a lower load rating (it's the last number on the tire) and not-as-good heat resistance.
Do you still have the 16" rims? I'd seriously consider going back to them. At a minimum, check the new tires to make sure the load rating (87 or so?), the speed rating (V), and the heat resistance index (A) are all equal or higher than the stock tire.
Even if you don't have the rims, I'd buy a used set of rims from a WRX, they're abundant and cheap. Good luck.
-juice
I have no reason to disagree, in fact he's one of the best in terms of technical resources here.
-juice
Just change the seals when you change the timing belt. It's a few bucks and the labor is paid for.
-juice
Greg
-juice
So Greg - what was your time in the "Taconic 500"??? Just kidding... ;-)
Steve
-juice
Greg
After almost 7 weeks of waiting for a promised letter from Subaru I have finally lost my patience. I have talked to various people in Cherry Hill and have been promised this document on numerious occasions but still no letter. After spending close to $30k you would think they have your best interest in mind!
If someone on the board could please give me the name and address of the CEO of Subaru NA so that I can update him or her on the level of customer service that is being provided. Thank you.
Mario
So, would you like to share with us your endeavour?
-Dave
Greg
-mike
I see Tire rack offers EBC grooved sport rotors and greenstuff pads - total parts would be $484.
What do people reccomned for street use (not rally or race - but a slight improvement in overall performance without any other mods is fine).
Suggestions??? Expereinces? Prices? Sources?
Thanks!
Matt
DaveM ('03 Outback wagon)
Can you describe the pulsating. My 00 Outback steering shakes a little when driven, but no pulsating when braking. Front rotors were turned but dealer said rears were fine. I'm thinking the rears should be turned too.
Eric
Not much of a description but hopefully it helps. :-)
DaveM
The catch is the original surfaces were hardened, so you lose that, plus the rotors become thinner and less able to withstand heat. Usually turning can only be done once.
-juice
Thanks for the description. Mine don't pulsate when braking. (They did before the front rotors were turned.) Must be a bad tire/rim/?...nobody has been able to figure it out so for.
Eric
MNSteve
Greg
So, rather than pay for new Subaru rotors (which they consider wear and tear items after 15K), I would rather buy good aftermarket rotors now that are better able to resist heat build-up and warping. TireRack sells vented EBC sport rotors and green stuff pads ($486 for all four sets) and it would cost $150 to have it all installed. I will do this only IF I have some reassurance that EBC rotors are more warp resistant than OEM. I have no problem with the Subaru brakes stopping the car, it is just that I have heard many stories of Subie rotors warping, and I am on my way to needing new rotors again after only 12K!
I don't drive hard and only brake aggressively in an emergency (rare). My original rotors on my 1992 Honda Accord lasted 129,000 and never needed to be replaced (turned once). Granted, that is a lighter vehicle, but my expectation is that a new vehicle is designed with the appropriate components!
Sorry for going on so long, but back to my original question - Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket rotors? I am interested in direct replacements and not upgrading calipers or wheels etc...
Thanks!
Matt
Over torquing and uneven tourquing is the quickest way to warp a set of rotors. I bought my own torque wrench and double check them every time the dealer removes the wheels.
However, I have had years of experience with rotor warp issues with the Lincoln Mark VIII. I'm active with the Lincolns of Distinction club and its very extensive message board (all Lincolns, but primarily the Mark VIII).
Consensus at LOD is that a big, heavy car generates lots of heat when the brakes are applied -- an amount of heat that no rotors, OEM, aftermarket, drilled, grooved, frozen, can endure without warping. (Actually, I am intrigued by frozen rotors, a process where the rotors are slowly cooled to a very low temperature, which supposedly alters the chemical strings/bonding of the metal and makes them less likely to warp. The problem is that the process is expensive, and even if they last 4-5 times the run-of-the mill rotors, you will still only break even.)
Most of the LODers have come to the conclusion that you put on the best pads you can (ceramics) but use run-of-the-mill rotors and be prepared to turn them at 8-12K and replace them at 15-20K. In addition, careful attention to proper torque is crucial as overtorquing with the impact/air wrenches can contribute to warping. And, learn how to change your own pads and rotors or find an independent mechanic who you know for a fact you can trust and who is competent. Don't go to the dealer. Ever.
--K9Leader
2000 OB Ltd wagon, 34K miles
1998 Toyota Sienna, 82K miles
1994 Lincoln Mark VIII, 103K miles
Greg
bit
Of course when I compare the thickness of the rotor to those on our Quest (28K) my Legacy's are noticeable thinner.
Greg