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Comments
Steve
Jim: I'd start with the tires, maybe rotate and balance them, check the pressures and for flat spots.
-juice
Steve
I -really- hope subaru has put a great deal extra engineering time on the '05 into fixing these wind noise problems. Subarus are moving into a competitive space where that kind of ruckus just isn't acceptable :-)
If Juice cannot find the link to the original, maybe I can get it to you.
Steve
-juice
http://www.members.cox.net/craig.hunter/window/
I love these boards!!!
Steve
-juice
A lot of wind noise seems to come from the front corner of the front windows, in the "gusset" area near the mirror. You can try pushing on the glass (outward) and the rubber in that area and see if it affects the noise. If so, the gusset can be adjusted just like the glass. I did this on my wife's Forester a couple of weeks ago, and have yet to post the pics. Since it may be useful, I'll do it this weekend! it made a night and day difference in her car -- the wind noise had been driving her crazy, which in turn had a similar effect on me....
Bottom line -- the frameless windows are very complicated, but Subaru built a lot of adjustment in. You can tell these have evolved through several generations. I was very impressed by the engineering design.
Craig
I just got my OB H6-3.0 wagon last weekend. I just found out that there're a few paint spots that doesn't matched the rest of the car color(Silver Stone). The spots are in the 1/4" diameter and its appearance is darker and lack the metallic look.
As a first time OB owner, please give me some advice and recommendations on how to address this problem.
This's definitely a defects in material/workmanship.
Regards,
Tom P.
-juice
Steve
Well, I took my car back to the dealer and they told me that the spots are paint blemishes...They offer to have the body/paint shop to resurface and repaint them. The spot the door is very noticeable.
The car only has 250miles. Is the dealer handling
this right?
Cheers,
Tom P
The car was in the shop for 4 weeks to get stripped and repainted, then I made four more trips to the body shop after getting the car back to have them try and fix things that were wrong -- everything from horrible wind noise to trim and mirrors falling off. The windows never rolled up the same way again, and the car rattled horribly.
The Subaru dealership's body shop was always very understanding and acknowledged the reassembly problems they had with the car, but they never could get the car right. I ended up trading the car in (for a WRX) six months later because I couldn't stand driving around in a car that squeeked and rattled the way my OB did after the body shop got done with it.
Unless the defects are really bad, I would strongly caution against having elective body work done on a new car...it may never be the same.
Brian
Boy, I am really worried now...I gotta find out what legal options are avail. to resolved this problem.
I guess I am stuck with this car and accept the fact that it was a bad one.
The service manager explained to me that they won't need to pull the hood and the door off for the paint jobs. I have the weekend to think it over before the appointment for Monday.
One unfortunate OB owner.
Tom
Also, if they are able to airbrush just the spots, you may be OK. I have seen some amazing spot repairs that are hard or impossible to detect.
Good luck!
Craig
http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/gusset/
Craig
A few months after I got my Outback, I noticed that the windshield washer fluid was starting to get more of the roof of the car than the windshield.
I took it to the dealer to have them replaced, and it corrected some of the problem.
I questioned it again and they said that it is just the way it is.
Today in my garage, I ran the washer and observed. It missed most of the lower portion of the windshield, while covering the roof of the car with fluid. Even the wall behind the car had washer fluid on it.
Is there anything I can do to convince the dealer this isn't right and have them replaced with ones that will hit only the windshield? I do not particularly want washer fluid sitting on the paint, nor do I want to hit the car behind me.
Another one of those small (yet rare) things that makes this great car seem cheap.
Any ideas would be great,
Thanks
The washer nozzles have a ball type outlet in them that can be adjuted by putting a fine needle in them and wiggling a bit. They should be hitting the screen toward the top so that the water deflects ontpo the screen as it is being used at speed. However, it should not be going over the top. Typically for each side there are two nozzles and one should be aimed a bit lowerr and to one side of the other.
One possible problem is small bits of gunk in the washer bottle. These can be sucked up andclog the nozzle. It loooks daft but you can usually blow this back by leaning over the washer nozzle and blowing really hard. It helps if you have Satchmo lips! There is also some points where you can separate the tubing and avoid blowing all the way back to the washer bottle. Repeat a few times to really persuade the neighbours you've gone mad.
Flushing the washer bottle once in a while is a good idea. It get rid of the cruud that inevitably builds up over time.
Cheers
Graham
Jon
Craig
On occasion, less than a minute after starting the cold engine (it never happens when it's warm), the engine is slow to respond to the gas pedal. By slow to respond I mean that I press on the gas pedal, but the engine doesn't respond. There is no acceleration sound, and the car feels like it is going forward (if it *is* going forward) solely due to the gas it was given when it was started -- almost like it's coasting on fumes. Sometimes it "stutters" like this even when I've floored the gas, so I know it's not a case of me having a feather touch on the gas. Today it felt like it was actually going to stall. The stutter lasts for a couple of seconds, then the engine responds, and the problem is gone again. The problem is intermittent. The outside temperature doesn't seem to matter. It's always happened when I've changed to drive after reversing out of a parking position, but that might be because I almost always have to reverse out of parking. I should note that the problem doesn't seem to happen when I'm back up, but after I change gears to go forward.
Definitely seems fuel related to me, but I have not done much in the way of investigating the problem. I did replace my fuel filter recently for the 30,000 mile service, so 2-3 months from now, maybe I can comment if that was the problem.
Craig
I did take it upon myself to try with a little pin to see if they would move, but no luck.
Graham, if you are feeling generous, maybe you could send me a couple of the Australian ones
Thanks
I do notice that when starting you have to let the fuel pump do a little dance first before turning the key. Perhaps indicative of under-engineered fuel system on the Bean?
Craig
Has any one had any problems with the samll galvanized metal bracket on the drives side near the strut rusting? It holds two emission items. Thanks Mike
Today I filed a complaint with NHTSA and I encourage others to do the same. WWW.nhtsa.dot.gov. If enough compliants are received an investigation may be conducted.
In the mean time, I would appreciate feedback on what aftermarket rotors to buy.
We tried to make it leak using the garden hose and then backing up, but we could not duplicate it. The dealer also looked at it and could not duplicate it or find anything that looked like it needed attention.
Has anyone else had this problem? Better yet, any recommendations on what needs to be fixed?
Thanks,
Barry
Greg
As for the transmission after backing up, I find if I wait for 1-2 seconds it does not have that no power/going to stall feeling. Seems to be slow to shift from reverse to 1st.
That said, I don't exactly know where the drain lines are on Outbacks. Anybody else know?
Craig
For that tranny: first, make sure to document the issue, 800-SUBARU3. Did the dealer try flushing the fluid? I also suspect the ECU may be at fault, you could reset it to see.
External amp? I don't think so, not unless you have a subwoofer/amp under the seat.
-juice
-mike
There's no way the engine can outpower the brakes, so just make sure you don't let off the brakes until the engine is fully in gear.
I would reset the ECU if your idle speed is that high or fluctuates that much. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, wait 20 minutes, reconnect, idle until warm. Have your keyless ready to lock/unlock and turn off any alarms.
-juice
Every new vehicle has teething issues, the Honda Element for instance is having windshield issues, they get stress cracks. BMWs are not known for their reliability at all.
-juice
Just reviewing people's posts and have seen some that have had to deal with clutch chatter on a continuing basis. I had mine replaced at about 17,000 and it's been ok since then. I've seen mention of a TSB concerning the parts that are to be used for replacement, but I can't seem to find it? Also, since I am about to clear my warranty period, is this clutch issue something that will become my responsibility financially after that (if it's a manufac. defect?)
Rain guards: I can't believe I'm the only one seeking some solution to the rain that falls in the drivers window with even the slightest of opening. No matter what the season, I often ride with my windows cracked or down, as this helps my vision whether I'm scanning the woods for animals, picture ops, bigfoot, etc. I also like to keep them open for fresh air, and in case something might be burning in my car. Like incense.
To my knowledge, there are no rain guards offered for my '03 Outback, and I wondered what others may have done to attack this need?
thanks
But seriously, the Forester has rain gutters that run along the roof to the edges, so it's not much of a problem for me.
-juice
And although I'm tempted to go check one out because they gave the sucker the power of turbo, I cannot afford a switch right now. But I still want my car to stay dry!
Doesn't anyone else experience this? I mean, rain's no big deal on me, but as it drips into the car, and possibly into the window buttons, or in between door panels, then I stat to worry about further complications.
Subaru designers should take into account, more so, the needs of folks who want to be able to drive with the windows down (cracked) in rain or snow and not get soaked. Riding with open windows in inclement weather may not make sense to flatlanders, but to people who have Subies b/c the environment demands it, it's a necessity!
Any info on specific parts that are supposed to be used for the clutch replacement problem?
thanks again
As for the Clutch, use part number 32098AA020, as per TSB 03-51-02R, and that the new clutch kit includes a new flywheel, clutch kit, cover, and bolts.
-juice
bit
I had warped rotors on my 00 base Outback and my 02 LL Bean. In both cases, the rotors were machined and were fine thereafter.
Recurring warped rotors is likely due to wheels being over-torqued, and this is very common. Happened on two of my Hondas when the dealer service depratment overtorqued the wheels (*way* over torqued, I could barely get the lugs loose). It is worth asking them to hand-torque your wheels, and double check if needed. Most places whale on the lugs with an impact wrench, and this can easily add up to 150-200 ft-lbs of torque (way over the recommended 60-80 for most cars with aluminim wheels) and certainly uneven torque. When the rotors heat up, uneven pressure from the lugs can lead to warpage.
Craig
Craig's right, I recall Mercedes applies about 120 ft-lbs for the ML class, that'll warp rotors in a heartbeat.
-juice