Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

1…5354565859…170

Comments

  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    If I recall, Subaru helped me with the first 2 instances where the rotors needed to be replaced on the 96 - front at 20k and rear at 44k. I was on my own with the fronts at 60k.

    My commute is similar to yours, I work in Exeter and live in MA. I'll have to check them out when I buy my new GT. I like the idea of a free loaner.
  • fitzy2fitzy2 Member Posts: 11
    Just got my 2002 LL Bean and as I am very concerned about proper maintenance I changed the oil today.......like to do as much as possible myself.....when I started the car after the oil change there was a strange noise from ubderneath the car, almost like a rattle or vibration...lasted only a moment......it was still on the car ramps.......I put it down to the new oil getting going but I never had it happen with any car in the past....has anyone had this?????? thanks much....Irish.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Might have taken that moment for the oil to get up to pressure, thru the filter, etc. I'm guessing the noise went away concurrent with that happening.
    Suggestion: If your oil filter screws on straight up-and-down (vertically), try filling it with fresh oil before installing it. Might get oil circulating that much quicker.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • jlemolejlemole Member Posts: 345
    Yeah, ditto Paul. Especially on ramps, the engine will tap a little before the oil is up to pressure. Priming the filter should put an end to it. Nothing to worry about, though.

    JonL
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I have been changing the oil on my Bean since new. It made that noise for the first time on the last oil change, at 37500 miles. So, I know the sound -- and it's the noise crank bearings make before they get oiled up. Nothing to worry about as long as the noise goes away in 1-2 sec.

    Craig
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    I got my 2001 Outback back yesterday after they had it for two days. They "fixed" the auto door-lock and alarm system, repaired the rotors and installed new rear brakes. The total bill: $732. I was shocked to say the least. I picked it up on a Sat so no one in service was available.

    I had Subaru install the alarm system and that was $272 to fix it. Well, less than 24 hours later, I can unlock..but not LOCK the doors with the indoor auto locking switch.

    Looking at their rates..it was almost 10 hours to repair the car. The sales guy on Saturday hinted that they are short-staffed at this point. Happy that I am paying extra for that.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    That is totally ridiculous, I hope you can get that bill reduced.

    Craig
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    Hey Juice- I'm just curious as to why Subaru isn't selling the regular Legacy L models for 2004. According to SOA's website and this one the cheapest Legacy models that are being sold right now are the L 35th Anniversary editions. The reason I'm commenting on this is because my father is interested in a Legacy wagon, but he doesn't want a sunroof, fog lights, alloys and those other frills. And no-frills L models of any year are tough to find from our experience.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Well, I'd say wait.

    The 2005 models will offer a 2.5i (base) model with no moonroof. I think it will have alloys, but why not reduce unsprung weight? It's less mass for the suspension to fight with.

    fitzy2: next time, see if you can find an incline and then aim the car down, then drive up the ramps. That leaves it about level while you're going the work. That may or may not help the oil circulate faster, but it's worth a shot.

    Also, try pre-filling the new oil filter before you install it. Folks here gave me that hint.

    -juice
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    One of my favorite topics - if you want to see just how long it takes the oil to start to run through a new filter - fill it once, let it set for a couple of minutes - can't find the oil? Its all in the element. I usually add oil a few times, such that it's about 1/2 to 3/4 full when I put it on the engine.

    I'm afraid I had "prime the filter" so thoroughly drummed into me when I was a kid, I'll always believe its the best way to go.

    Here's an observation that makes no sense - Purolator OEM's the Subaru filters, -but- at least for the filter's I'm using now the Purolators thread on easier. Strange.

    Larry
  • gearhead4gearhead4 Member Posts: 122
    jrosasmc

    I contacted Subaru about plain Legacy L models last June.
    I was told that Subaru did manufacture some plain L models for fleet sales and that the dealer could special order them. At that time they had several 2003 Legacy L models in the factory lot. Early in the 2004 model year, I saw punlished prices for non SE Legacy models, so I think some were produced.
    The dealers were not ordering them because the SE package was priced very low for the amount of equipment included, so I could not find any on the dealer lots.
    The factory should start retooling for the 2005 models very soon, so I think they old models are no longer being produced.
    Even if your dealer will special order a plain 2004 Legacy, I would agree with juice and
    wait for the 2005 models that should hit the streets in June. They look more stylish and offer many refinements
    -gearhead4
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The SE package was a bargain, you got a lot more than your money's worth.

    They'd sell you a base Outback if you didn't want a moonroof. That gets you heated seats.

    Subaru doesn't really sell "stripped" models, the Brighton is long gone.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Pre-fill. The other thing you can do is crank the engine w/o starting it a few times. This will move the oil into the engine.

    -mike
  • fitzy2fitzy2 Member Posts: 11
    Thank you all for the advice on the filter priming....never heard of that before but I heard the same from an avid Subaru friend of mine.
    Will do this from now on.

    I have another question. I need to replace one tire (because of a temp replacement...previous owner). I like to buy 60 - 70K rated tires but the Bridgestone Potenza's are rated only for 45k. I cant' afford four new tires and was wondering have any of you put on other than the Bridgestones and what do you think about two different tires on same end (225-60R-16's of course)as from the other end/???? just narrowing the options........thanks again.....since I discovered this platform I have been reassured by the help out there.
                         Irish.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You really need 4 of the same tires/wear in each corner.

    -mike
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Make sure you're looking at the right ratings. The Potenza RE92s on my Outback have a TW rating of 360, and have a lot of life left at 38000 miles. I think these will go to 60K easy.

    Other Potenza RE92s have lower TW ratings and will only last 25-40K.

    Another great tire is the Potenza RE750. That is more of a performance tire (still all season) and has a TW rating of 400.

    Take a look at the TireRack website and browse the selection. You should be able to find a tire that meets your needs, whether it's handling, quiet ride, etc....

    Definitely make sure all the tires are within the 0.25" circumference difference recommended by Subaru. That generally means 4 new tires or getting new tires shaved to match the tread depth of the others.

    Craig
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    check out the Bridgestone Turanza LS as well, it get rave reviews at Tirerack also and does very well in their tests. Has 400AA A rating which is very good traction for a non "peformance" tire . The LS H is about the same price as the W rated RE750 but the LS V is even more! When the RE92s on my Legacy are shot I'm going for the Turanzas this time.They are also not directional like the RE750 (or even the 950). Having trashed a set of Michelin Pilot XGT Hs from poor alignment in the legacy 2 years ago, I'd hate to see what woudl have happened if I had had directional tires at the time! If you haven;'t seen any on another car find a new BMW 745i with the "standard" wheels!
  • 96201979620197 Member Posts: 9
    My car has the dreaded piston slap. I took it to the dealer a couple of weeks ago. They confirmed the sound and said "would not worry to much" and "with in spec."

    I am taking it back in, and have also contact SOA.

    Does Subaru really have a specification for how much tapping is normal? I would think that any tapping would be abnormal. I know the boxer is not the quietest engine but my last car was a diesel and was quiter in the cabin when really cold than my Subaru.

    Mind you really cold is not very cold, I live in WA.

    Let's see if I can get them to fix this.

    Any feedback from people who have had their pistons replaced and if this really fixes it would be appreciated. The dealer I go to has not yet offered to do that. I currently have just under 20,000 miles.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    security system issue? Is it an SOA part? Please let the Rep. know that I'd like to see the case.

    I hope we can help!! Sorry for the agg.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    after the car has warmed up?

    Patti
  • dodgenut1dodgenut1 Member Posts: 7
    Patti, please review my case #562011. Was told by SOA rep that yes I had piston slap and they would change #1 and #4 pistons. They then said because I have a Phase I engine there are no replacement pistons for it. It appears that other owners have had a short block installed in this situation. The SOA rep has said in effect that I must live with it. My vehicle is a 99 Outbaek, DOHC. Thanks for listening. Jack
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    Hi Patti,

    Thank you for your response. They tracked down the source of my wacky security system. It is the actual switch on the driver's side for my auto door locks. My doors don't lock at this point from the driver's side. The part is on order and they will be calling me when it is due in.

    Also, even though I purchased the extended plan from my dealer, they had no record of it. They credited about $200 back to me. So all that is good. I hope the switch issue is fixed when the part comes in.

    FWIW- I have actually started taking a look at the CR-V and RAV4 for a mid-summer purchase. I had an oil leak fixed but the car STILL smells like it is burning all the time. Others have said it is a normal Subie smell. Sorry, but not a smell I want to live with having customers driving in my car with me. Also, the heater switch does not go all the way to hot anymore..I put it to hot and then it goes back toward the cold. Also, I have two new air leaks in my driver window. Sounds like a wind-tunnel occassionally.

    Sorry to sound down..I just drive 30,000 miles / yr and I can't afford to keep taking the car back to the dealership for these annoyances.
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Rick,

    SOA replaced 2 pistons mine, but it took 15 minutes or so for the piston slap to quiet down and that was well after the coolant reached normal temp. If yours quiets down in 5 or fewer minutes then I doubt its much of an issue. Does it still nock when the coolant temp is up to normal?

    -jay
  • janice96janice96 Member Posts: 19
    Traded my 96 Outback for 2000 Legacy L last year. At the time was actually wanting Legacy GT wagon,but could not find a 5-speed&could not go the cost of new. I've purchased 4 factory GT wheels,and waiting for this winter to be over to get tires. I'm looking at cooper cobers 205/55R16. From what I am told I could do 225/50R16 for a little more than what the 55 series tires cost. Any one have any opinions on going to the wider lower tires. Also just got a recall letter to have a cooling system conditioner added to the cooling system. Haven't had any leaking problems,knock on wood. Does any one know what this conditioner does to stop or keep head gaskets from leaking? Janice
  • uffdaoleuffdaole Member Posts: 37
    FWIW, have 98 OB purchased july 98. Had short block replaced mar 99 due to extreme piston slap. OK until cold weather when slap reappeared. Each winter worse. Left car with dealer on cold night. Yes, heard it, needs timing belt tensioner. Did so--no change. Dealer contacted rep agreed to change all pistons in Oct 02 at 44k.Now approx 18k later and two Minn winters, no NONE slap even at minus 25 to 30 below. Hard to believe no pistons available. Part # 2 12006ab410 piston set & 2 12006ab420 piston set. (left & right) BE FIRM!! Good luck.
  • dodgenut1dodgenut1 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks loads for your input. Since you still have the piston part numbers, perhaps you still have the repair order. A copy might be of help as I try to get this problem sorted out. If you could scan it and Email me a copy would be very grateful. Seems strange doesn't it that they had pistons for your 98 DOHC Phase I engine and not my 99 DOHC Phase I engine!! Will try also to track down the part numbers to see if still available. The frustration from this won't go a long way to putting me in another Subaru. Thanks, Jack
  • ckbxnyckbxny Member Posts: 1
    I hear a squeak coming from the front right tire every time I drive over an uneven pavement or speed bump. Could it be the tire, the suspension, or something else? Has anybody had this problem? Please advise, Thank you.
  • friendly_jacekfriendly_jacek Member Posts: 96
    Hi,
    I had bad fuel efficiency in my 2000 legacy L for over a year (15-16 MPG). The local dealership could not diagnose a problem.
    Recently, check engine and AT temp light went off and TPS sensor failure was diagnosed. $330 and new TPS later, the MPG went back to 20 (normal in my car in city). However, one month later, the same problem comes back: solid engine light, blinking AT temp light, erratic power, delayed and hard shifts. BTW, the AT temp is normal: 160-180 F, I have an AT temp gauge installed.
    Does one know if there is a reason for repeated TPS failures?
    Or maybe other failures in Subaru can mascarade as TPS?
    Thanks,
    Jacek
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Throttle position sensor? Doesn't sound like a common problem, FWIW. I'm just surprised that would affect the tranny like that.

    As for that squeek, I would lube the sway bar bushings. Use lithium grease, not anything petroleum based.

    -juice
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    I stopped by my local Subaru dealer this afternoon and he confirmed what I suspected all along: the lowest-priced Legacy available for 2004 is the L 35th Anniversary. Most of the L 35th wagons there were selling for an average of $21k, which isn't too bad.

    Juice, Bob, can you confirm that too, about the L 35th being the base-line Leg?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sounds right to me. It's got a lot of equipment standard, so it's a good value IMO.

    -juice
  • 96201979620197 Member Posts: 9
    Patti,

    The tapping is detectable even after the engine has warmed up. I have driven the car for 20 mins and still been able to detect the tapping. The tapping does get quieter as the engine gets warmer but does not fully go away. I would understand if this was something that lasted a couple of mins. but it is still detectable when warm.

    My case number is 586715.

    It is really frustrating when you buy a car and it does not make the tapping sound and once it develops you are told that it is within spec. I really like the car and had planned on keeping it for a long time when I bought it. Having this tapping and being told it is within spec. has me concerned about the longetivity of the engine (my particular engine as I have known many people to drive Subaru's for a longer period of time and bought one due to the reliability).

    I did see on here someone said that a SOA Rep gave him a free Subaru Gold Warranty. While I would prefer that my car be repaired, this would alleviate my concerns for the long term as the damage that is most likely occuring would then be covered for as long as I will own my Subaru. I don't anticipate owning the car beyond 100,000 miles.

    Any assistance you can give of having it fixed when I take it in would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Rick
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    with is very good. I've asked for him to keep me in the loop. Hopefully we'll be able to address this properly with you.

    Thanks for your patience!

    Patti
  • 96201979620197 Member Posts: 9
    Patti,

    Thank you for following up. I am just a little frustrated with the situation. When I read where people have had this problem corrected and they are in much colder climates, I would think that someone in a warmer climate would get the same treatment from Subaru.

    Hopefully they can get the "piston slap" fixed. The few other problems I have had with the car, the dealer has done a great job getting them corrected. I had a mirror that rattled, they replaced that, and I like many owners had the wind noise through the front window. With an adjustment to the front gusset they were able to get it eliminated.

    If/when they get the problem with the piston slap corrected my car will be just the way I want it.

    I am taking it in on the 29th of this month and they are supoosed to look at it again on the 30th although they reiterated to me when scheduling the appointment that it is "normal" and that the tech found it "within spec." Lets see what happens.

    I do know that these boards are filled with people who have had problems, but my Subaru for the most part has been a great car and you can't beat it when it snows.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    I know it's hard when you're having a problem. I think they are all under the impression that it goes away when it's warmed up. I think this misunderstanding is leading them to think it's "normal". I know that it seems that there are a lot of problems, but please remember that folks have a tendency to post the negative more often than the positive. Overall, Subaru is pretty low on the scale of automotive manuf. "problems". We're able to help with most situations. Occasionally, you'll see someone post a serious problem and then not post back. I think I can comfortably say that we resolve at least 90% of the complaints to the customers satisfaction. The positive just isn't shared all the time on here.

    Anyway - thank you for giving us another shot. We'll do our best for you.
  • dodgenut1dodgenut1 Member Posts: 7
    Can the part numbers be researched to see if in fact they Were available for DOHC Phase I engines and if so are they still available? I seem to keep finding conflicting info, with no solution to my problem. Case #562011. Thanks, Jack
  • friendly_jacekfriendly_jacek Member Posts: 96
    Ateixeira:

    Thanks, unfortunately TPS affects AT a lot. I my case, when trouble codes show up for TPS (intermittently), the transmission shifts very late, very hard. I guess the wrong information it gets from TPS is that I floor the pedal, which I do not.

    Some follow up: local dealership saw the car yesterday, confirmed the TPS error codes in memory but determined that TPS was not defective (it was replaced a month ago: $240 part cost for a simple potentiometer; cost to produce: under a buck) and the connections were OK. They do not know how to diagnose the problem further.

    This is why I need help or any good ideas.
    I suspect that the TPS error codes (p0122 and TCM31) are misleading in my case and there is something else wrong escaping diagnosis at the moment.

    Please, anyone?

    BTW, in my line of work (I am a professional), if I do not know the answer to a challenging question, I hit books and other resources. If a mechanic at dealership does not know the answer, the buzz-phrase is: "problem could not be duplicated".
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Nabisco might have some leads.

    -juice
  • michaelpsumichaelpsu Member Posts: 24
    Maybe this topic has been covered before...but is anyone else really not happy with the gas mileage that they get with their Legacy? I have an '02 GT Limited, and only get about 19 or so overall. I have an equal mix of highway and around town driving. When I take long highway trips, it is a struggle to get 25. I do have a heavy right foot (it is hard not to with this car!) and I know that the gearing on these affects the mpg...but I have tried to drive 'reasonably' to see if I could max it out to EPA ratings...but it just doesn't do it. I am going to start traveling another 300+ miles each week...on top of the 350 that I already put on it...and was thinking about getting something a little more efficient. But I hate to give up the AWD! Maybe the '05's will be a little less thirsty?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The AWD effects the milage significantly. If you are at all hard on the gas you'll be burning up gas pretty quickly. With my SVX I can get anywhere from 14-15mpg in the city to 28mpg on the highway at 75-80 with cruise control on. If I take off cruise control I run about 3mpg less just cause I'm gassing it more than if the CC is set.

    -mike

    PS: those epa figures don't have wind effects.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My wife's 2002 Legacy L has a taller final drive ratio, but she manages 25 mpg on average. She doesn't accelerate hard but she does go fast on the highway, about 70 or so.

    -juice
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    My 99 GT consistently gets 26 on the highway.

    The old 96 Outback got 24. The new 03 Outback gets 20 - 22.

    I drive at 80, and rarely use CC.
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    In the 5+ years of owning a '98 OBW Ltd. 5 spd (~62,000 miles, use synthetic oil in engine, gearbox & diffs), I've never gotten over 24mpg. And on the less crowded freeways the CC is used. Last Sunday I drove 150 miles with a right rear cross wind (heading south). Using CC. Blizzaks for tires and a ski pod on top. No hard acceleration, just cruising at 75MPH. Got 22.3mpg

    Maybe try running about 55mph???? No way!

    MNSteve
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I read an SAE paper this week that discussed EPA testing procedures. While they do their testing on a dyno under static (wind-off) conditions, aerodynamic drag *is* factored into the test. What they do is to take aerodynamic data supplied by the manufacturer (usually from CFD or a wind tunnel) and use it to calculate and generate an equivalent load on the dyno. So aerodynamic drag actually does get taken into account. For many years, I have been under the impression that it wasn't.

    Craig
  • fitzy2fitzy2 Member Posts: 11
    What is the expected city and highway MPG for a 2002 LL Bean.
    Thanks Folks. irish
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I get 22mpg in everyday mixed driving, and normally get 24-28 on long trips.

    Craig
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I get 22mpg in everyday mixed driving, and normally get 24-28 on long trips.

    Craig
  • nickimomnickimom Member Posts: 11
    I own a '96 Subaru Legacy Outback, and my husband tapped an '04 Camry from behind so lightly that the Camry didn't know it was tapped. However, both airbags deployed, with the passenger side airbag exploding thru the front windshield. Is this normal?
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Routine mix of city & hiway gives 24mpg very consistently. An all freeway drive raises it to ~29mpg.

    Jim
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    based on the "g-forces" created with the hit. Also, the passenger side airbag is designed to deploy upwards towards the glass. This is actually the preferred design. The impact of the bag is absorbed by the glass vs. the occupant.

    I hope everyone is okay@

    Patti
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles