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Comments
I had the same problem with my '96 Outback wagon when I first purchased it (with 83K miles).
It was the powertrain bushing. I don't know if this is the technical term for this bearing/bushing unit, but hopefully it correctly identifies the part in everyones' minds..... For some reason, the rubber bushing surrounding the driveshaft bearing was off-kilter. When enough torque was applied to the shaft, it would shimmy out of balance and cause the rattling sound. Again, it was during a hard right while accelerating (such as making a right turn from one street to another) or just a hard acceleration from a stop.
An easy fix - it probably took me about 2 hours of work. The moronic thing is that Subaru affixes the bearing to the front half of the drive shaft and so I had to buy the whole shaft ($350 used) rather than just the bearing/bushing. You CAN remove the bearing from the shaft by bending straight a small dent in the bearing's housing, but I don't know that you can get a bearing by itself from Subaru. However, for an '04, it's probably a warranty issue so you won't have to pay for it or do the work. Subaru may have changed the layout of the system, but I'd start here - it sounds like the exact same symptoms mind had.
You probably won't have to worry about it happening again any time soon. I've put another 90K on the car since then and I've had no problems (and like I said, I bought my replacement used).
On the AC problems:
On a warm day you need to observe whether the compressor continues to cycle when the cooling stops. A sensor is mounted under the dash on the evaporator core to monitor cold air temp. This instructs the expansion valve (regulates liquid R-134) to allow flow into the evaporator. It also signals the compressor to run (which compresses the returning gas refrigerant back into a liquid).
One of two possibilities:
1) The compressor might quit cycling after a while. It should run a lot in the beginning, and trail off somewhat once the system stabilizes. But it should still kick in for 10 seconds or so every 20-30 seconds to maintain interior temp. A variety of problems could cause it to quit cycling.
Too much freon reported? Maybe, but probably not. This is typically determined by pressure readings. Water or other restrictions within the cooling lines can cause a blockage which will give a high pressure reading. An overpressure safety valve might be shutting down the compressor to protect the system.
2) The evaporator sensor / expansion valve might have problems. Too little freon flow produces warm air. Too much will freeze up the fins with condensed water vapor. Water should drip out under the car. This happens when the evaporator is cold enough to condense water, but not so cold as to cause it to freeze on contact. If it causes an ice mass, the register air will feel warm. Yes, it sounds counter-intuitive, but the mechanics of air cooling requires a massive surface area of fins, and ice kills the efficiency. When you turn the car off, the ice melts, and everything works again until it ices up again....
So many possibilities...
Steve
Thanks
-mike
-mike
-mike
I have a 2001 OBW. WIth 44,000 miles on it I have been told by the dealer I need a new clutch. Is this common? WHile I have the extended warranty they will not cover it.
I don't feel I ride the clutch at all. In fact, I went 10 years and 110,000 miles on a BMW 318i with the original clutch.
I can continue to take the car in under warranty and then make these changes once my warranty is up.
Thanks,
Lee
Lee
http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/03-51-02R.pdf
(that's a unofficial copy I keep on hand)
If your symptoms are the same as the "judder" issue, then you should be pushing for Subaru to cover the cost of the clutch replacement.
Tell us your symptoms and what promted you to have the dealer look at the clutch, and we can probably tell if it is the judder issue or not. Of course, final judgement rests with Subaru! But they usually try to do right by their customers.
Craig
Jim
-mike
At first I started to notice slight slipping when moving from 3rd to 4th gear. About 3 weeks ago.
A week later, when I got another check engine light (third in two years, second in three months)for the famous O2 sensor I had them check the clutch. I have started to notice slipping in moving to all gears.
I don't think its sounds like the judder problem.
I have not had any problem in the last 16k. Hopefully this vigialnce will make the rotors last longer.The last dealer visit I had produced all lugs over 120 ft lbs and 5 over 140 ft lbs (off my wrench scale!). The dealer I go to is great except for this - even CostCo hand torques.
I looked into aftermarket rotors and they all use OEM rotor "blanks" as best as I can tell - so unless you want to go with larger rotor-caliper setup up Mike recoomends, you will probably not see longer rotor life.
Matt
Brembo and Mountain do not use OEM blanks, heck the only ones I know who use them are stoptech IIRC on their drilled and slotted ones. They use Subaru blanks and slot em.
Brembo and Mountain produce their own blanks.
-mike
Lee
To remedy this problem my transmission was rebuilt to the tune of $3000. To date I have not encountered any other transmission problems (knock wood!!!). However my outback is now back in the shop again because the rear gate is stuck shut. I've been told the actuator is stuck in the locked position, thus prohibiting me from opening the gate. They say they can fix this to the tune of $335. Anyone else ever experience similar problems?
To the couple people who were unhappy with me venting about the transmission problem...Subaru made design changes to the 1999 outback tranny and I have seen several people, not just on this board but other boards, who had the same problem as I did. The shop who rebuilt my transmission had another outback (1999) in at the same time under going the same sort of work. So perhaps you might be willing to add transmission to your list of known outback issues.
Regardless, thanks to all of you who had offered advice way back when!
Oh, btw, my comment about buying German next time was a joke, hence the ;-). I've owned 4 Japanese cars (3 Nissan and 1 Subaru) and have no plans to switch anytime soon. Unless of course someone wants to GIVE me a BMW. >^..^<
Any idea if a similar resistor controls the same function in recent Subaru ATs?
Ken
-mike
The replacement rotors that use OEM (Subaru) blanks are EBC and Powerslot. Brembo did not have any front rotors available for the H6 Outback a year ago (their catalog on the websitew does not list them currently either for a 2002 - although TireRack is now listing Brembos as being available). I will certainly try the Brembos if I need rotors again - although I am hoping that proper lug nut torque will prevent that.
The main concern I have with the Subaru rotors - if they are indeed "inadequate" - is that the other companies who are slotting, dimpling, drilling or coating these rotors are not going to *significantly* change the overall warp resistance of the metal.
Matt
EBC and powerslot never impressed me, nor did drilling
Lemme see if I can get a part # for the H6 front rotors. Interesting no H6 fronts from Brembo or Mountain. Time to upgrade to WRX brackets and rotors
-mike
My 2005 Outback has 900 miles on it and I noticed a couple days after I bought it, brake nose (friction sound) coming from the rear when slowing to a stop.
two weeks ago I brought it in and they roughed up one of the rear rotors and pads saying there was a stain on the pad.
Well after two weeks I still hear it.
Is it possible dirt got embedded in the pads while it was sitting on the dealer's lot?
At what point do I say "hey, I thought I was buying a new car... get rid of the noise" or does Suburu use noisy pad material that I'm not use to? ;>)
Long Beach? Nice area...
For reasons I don't really understand, I have had more anomalies with my '02 OBW's brakes than any new car I ever purchased (9 of them...). Whenever I travel and the car sits for more than a week, the pads seem to 'weld' themselves to the rotors, and literally need to break away with a loud 'thump' when I press the gas. And I am not alone - a co-worker complains about the same thing. The net is that I end up with patches of rust (pad sized) that take a while to wear away.
After one such event, the noise and pedal feel was so bad that the dealer readily agreed - replaced one set of pads and turned all 4 rotors. A few months later the car sat at the airport for a week, and the pad patches repeated. My travel companion asked me if it was safe to drive the car as it shuttered to a stop at the first traffic light. Took about 4 days of use to return to normal.
So bottom line - push the dealer to look at it again if you are unhappy. It is probably the result of sitting on the lot.
Steve
The non H6 models use smaller discs and calipers and would benefit from an upgrade to WRX parts.
Craig
FYI - '00 Outbacks have 10.7 inch front rotors.
DaveM
I have LLBean Outback V6 model. Sometimes, there's a cricklet-sounding like clinking on left side of car, speeding up and slowing down with car. This comes and goes, with no apparent cause. Once when it was happening, I braked, and the brakes slipped. I've taken car to repair numerous times, but cricket sound doesn't happen then, and repar staff can't find anything wrong.
Any insight?
Thanks in advance!
1 Never rest you foor on the brake pedal . If you drive with both feet change it .
2 When you come to a stop always let the car roll forward a little bit. That way the heat generated from stopping is spread out on the disk surface .
Mike k
Your point #2 is indeed very critical. After a hard stop substantial 'pad transfer' can occur if you keep the pads tightly clamped against the rotor. I have one such stop each morning (the substandard exit ramp off of the Taconic Pkwy), and I always give myself some creep room when I come to a stop at the light for just this reason.
But my problems always seem to happen after non-use of the car. The worst time occured when I washed and put her away for a week. Brakes were locked up tight as a drum, and within days the dealer was replacing/lathing parts.
Steve
On 2nd thought, I think they did away with those and send electric signals now instead.
-juice
If your chirp is dependent on road speed and not engine rpm, I wonder if it is the squealer on the brake pads -- they are designed to squeak when the brake pads get worn down, to let you know it's time for new pads.
If not the pads, I would suspect a bearing -- they also can make a squeaking noise, though it would soon become louder (like a jet engine) as the bearing fails.
Craig
The last time I washed my car, the rotors showed slight rust by the time I finished thoroughly drying the car!
Jim
Craig
Steve
Although we don't drive the car hard, we live near Vancouver BC and it is normally driven in urban traffic, as well as at least one long road trip a year towing a brakeless tent trailer.
Thus, I can't help wondering about driving habits. For instance, I am frequently passed by people in another lane as I am slowing for traffic or a red light. Obviously these folk must brake much harder than me in order to stop at the same spot. And I'm assuming that most of them drive automatics which put more stress on the brakes anyway.
Also, I release the brakes after stopping, and either allow a short roll or simply sit there in neutral if the road is level. I learned to drive in the UK, so I tend to use my parking brake if stopped in traffic for any length of time or on an incline.
Has anyone experienced this problem before?
A knock that begins when the engine is cold and goes away once fully warmed up (length of time varies between a few minutes and up to 15 or so) is probably due to something called "piston slap". The quest for reduced reciprocating mass has caused many mfgrs to shorten the piston's lower skirt around the wrist pin area. The result is that the piston can oscillate in the bore, making the noise. It is not a "Subaru only" thing, and has been discussed in news articles on engine design.
SoA, like most mfgrs, has a time/noise level spec on what is considered 'normal', and what warrants possible piston replacement with slightly oversized units. Call them and open a case if you are really concerned and have a factory rep listen to the car on a cold start. But chances are it is something you will have to learn to ignore. Believe me, I find the sound a bit distressing as will, but at least understand the cause.
Steve
My solution is to make sure that after I close the hatch, I push the lever towards the car (the springs are supposed to do this) then lock it with the remote.
Spray some WD-40 (or something like it) onto the lever mechanism every so often to keep it lubed and prevent further rust.
I think that a lot of this rusting is due to moisture from the exhaust.
Hope this helps.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
Fast forward to Jan 04 42k miles on car . The knock got progressivly worst and would knock at all temps at start up .Took it back to the dealer and had the District Serv Rep listen to it. He consulted with the Sub Tech Line and they said that if the noise goes away after 15 mins that it is normal . My noise didn't go away it would be quieter but was still there at all times . Was told they would get back to me . I got the call 2 days later to bring car in to have countermeasure pistons installed . They only do the #2and #4 pistons on the drivers side of engine .They had the car for 2 days . I now have put 6k miles on it and it is much quieter at start up . I still have very slight knock but goes away in 15-30 seconds.the real test will be when the temps get below 30 degrees.
Throught this whole time my car never burned a drop of oil and ran like a champ other then the knock noise .
I was able to see the pistons that came out and there was some wear near the wrist pin .Just the moly coating worn off . The cylinder walls had no wear at all.
So I guess all I'm saying is stay with it get the District Serv Rep involved and call the 800# for SOA and get a case # . As I said before the main thing is that if the noise goes away they won't do any repairs .
Hope this helps
Mike k
I am in the market for a new car and I really like the 2005 Legacy. But, I am very hesitant to get another Subaru just because of the expense of all of the alignments and tires.
By comparison, we didn't have to align our Honda for 30,000 miles and tire wear has been great.
Anyone else having problems with tire wear and does anyone know if it is better with the 2005?
Thanks