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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • shazshaz Member Posts: 1
    My H6 sedan has 14,000 miles. When you make a hard right turn from a stop. (turning into traffic) there is a rumble noise that comes from the passenger side rear. Has anyone had this problem. Also seem to briefly hear the same noise with a quick start. Any ideas?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Ahah! I know this one.

    I had the same problem with my '96 Outback wagon when I first purchased it (with 83K miles).

    It was the powertrain bushing. I don't know if this is the technical term for this bearing/bushing unit, but hopefully it correctly identifies the part in everyones' minds..... For some reason, the rubber bushing surrounding the driveshaft bearing was off-kilter. When enough torque was applied to the shaft, it would shimmy out of balance and cause the rattling sound. Again, it was during a hard right while accelerating (such as making a right turn from one street to another) or just a hard acceleration from a stop.

    An easy fix - it probably took me about 2 hours of work. The moronic thing is that Subaru affixes the bearing to the front half of the drive shaft and so I had to buy the whole shaft ($350 used) rather than just the bearing/bushing. You CAN remove the bearing from the shaft by bending straight a small dent in the bearing's housing, but I don't know that you can get a bearing by itself from Subaru. However, for an '04, it's probably a warranty issue so you won't have to pay for it or do the work. Subaru may have changed the layout of the system, but I'd start here - it sounds like the exact same symptoms mind had.

    You probably won't have to worry about it happening again any time soon. I've put another 90K on the car since then and I've had no problems (and like I said, I bought my replacement used).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Joseph,

    On the AC problems:
    On a warm day you need to observe whether the compressor continues to cycle when the cooling stops. A sensor is mounted under the dash on the evaporator core to monitor cold air temp. This instructs the expansion valve (regulates liquid R-134) to allow flow into the evaporator. It also signals the compressor to run (which compresses the returning gas refrigerant back into a liquid).

    One of two possibilities:
    1) The compressor might quit cycling after a while. It should run a lot in the beginning, and trail off somewhat once the system stabilizes. But it should still kick in for 10 seconds or so every 20-30 seconds to maintain interior temp. A variety of problems could cause it to quit cycling.
    Too much freon reported? Maybe, but probably not. This is typically determined by pressure readings. Water or other restrictions within the cooling lines can cause a blockage which will give a high pressure reading. An overpressure safety valve might be shutting down the compressor to protect the system.

    2) The evaporator sensor / expansion valve might have problems. Too little freon flow produces warm air. Too much will freeze up the fins with condensed water vapor. Water should drip out under the car. This happens when the evaporator is cold enough to condense water, but not so cold as to cause it to freeze on contact. If it causes an ice mass, the register air will feel warm. Yes, it sounds counter-intuitive, but the mechanics of air cooling requires a massive surface area of fins, and ice kills the efficiency. When you turn the car off, the ice melts, and everything works again until it ices up again....

    So many possibilities...

    Steve
  • joeb24joeb24 Member Posts: 111
    Thanks very much Steve. Sounds like you are a mechanic. Next time I have problems, I will try to bring it to my mecahnic while it is actually happening.
  • edwardsfamilyedwardsfamily Member Posts: 6
    My wife and I bought a 2003 Subaru Outback in April of 03. At 19k miles, we took the car into the dealer because the brake pads were gone and the rotors were grooved. The dealer took care of the problem, but advised that Subaru's will use up brake pads quickly. We know have 25k miles and the rotors are again grooved. The rear pads are almost completely gone. I do not trust my dealer and was just curious if anyone has experienced any similar problem. Except for the brake issue, we love this car.
    Thanks
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Indicates a problem with the wiring or TCU unit. The frequency and # of flashes indicates the exact problem. On my SVX there is actually a mod you can do called a resistor mod that removes the resistor that controls the line pressure in the trans, this always keeps the line pressure high so it shifts crisper with less wear on the TC and bands.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    How hard do you hit the gas? I have no problem getting any of my ATs to downshift even on the racetrack, you can't be gentle if you want it to downshift though, really hammer it and it'll take off.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I would highly recommend going with something of a ceramic material for replacement pads and either Brembo or Mountain for rotor replacement. Also depending on how much you want to spend you can upgrade to a larger rotor such as the WRX by adding wrx brackets and rotors to your Outback. A good set of pads are the Akebono ACT pads and reasonably priced.

    -mike
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    Brakes which wear "early" and warped rotors are a common complaint. The rotors on my 02 were resurfaced at 19k, new pads at 26k and new rotors, but not new pads at 35k. The rear rotors were resurfaced with new pads at 35k. All of this done under warranty. Overtightening the lug nuts may contribute to warping and hand-tightening lug nuts and using a torque wrench would help, if you can find a dealer to do it that way. My dealer doesn't. Mike may be right in suggesting that you invest in rotor upgrades to end the problem, but I sure would like to see SOA step up with an upgraded rotors. The response I've had from my Service Manager is that the GM cars his dealership sells have faster pad wear and more warping than Subaru. I'm not looking forward to paying for brake work every 20k once I'm off warranty. Otherwise the car is great.
  • peakpropeakpro Member Posts: 65
    Hi,

    I have a 2001 OBW. WIth 44,000 miles on it I have been told by the dealer I need a new clutch. Is this common? WHile I have the extended warranty they will not cover it.

    I don't feel I ride the clutch at all. In fact, I went 10 years and 110,000 miles on a BMW 318i with the original clutch.
  • edwardsfamilyedwardsfamily Member Posts: 6
    Mike, thanks for the info. About how much did you spend on this? It sounds like Subaru's response is just to re-surface the rotors and replace the pads until the car is out of warranty.
    I can continue to take the car in under warranty and then make these changes once my warranty is up.

    Thanks,
    Lee
  • edwardsfamilyedwardsfamily Member Posts: 6
    Looks like we are in the same boat. Your numbers are almost identical to mine. My front rotors are again warped in less than 10k miles since they were last re-surfaced. Maybe I can get Subaru to replace them since this is the second time they have warped in less than 25k miles. I will have to suck it up and re-place the rear pads. Thankfuly my rear rotors are not damaged.

    Lee
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Make sure your dealer is aware of this TSB:

    http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/03-51-02R.pdf

    (that's a unofficial copy I keep on hand)

    If your symptoms are the same as the "judder" issue, then you should be pushing for Subaru to cover the cost of the clutch replacement.

    Tell us your symptoms and what promted you to have the dealer look at the clutch, and we can probably tell if it is the judder issue or not. Of course, final judgement rests with Subaru! But they usually try to do right by their customers.

    Craig
  • gearhead4gearhead4 Member Posts: 122
    I had a 2000 Legacy sedan with 24000 miles when I had my dealer replace the clutch because of "judder". SOA picked up the labor and cost for the pressure plate and the release bearing, but I had to pay for the clutch disk, so I asked for the part. The clutch disk showed very little wear but had minor glazing and a discolored hub (apparently from overheating). I would say that the clutch could have lasted another 50,000 miles. "Your mileage may vary".

    Jim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Depending on which ones you go with figure on about $50-60 each for the Brembo or Mountain rotors, and about $50-60/axle for the Akebonno ACT pads. We carry them but local is probably better as shipping on rotors is hefty.

    -mike
  • peakpropeakpro Member Posts: 65
    thanks for the info...

    At first I started to notice slight slipping when moving from 3rd to 4th gear. About 3 weeks ago.

    A week later, when I got another check engine light (third in two years, second in three months)for the famous O2 sensor I had them check the clutch. I have started to notice slipping in moving to all gears.

    I don't think its sounds like the judder problem.
  • architrarchitr Member Posts: 1
    At 48 000 Km the front brake pads and rotors on my 02 Outback wagon were completely worn away. At a cost of 800 Canadian dollars, this was not a laughing matter especially since I have been complaining to my dealer (since I picked upthe vehicle new) that they were dragging . Of course, in Canada, Subaru does not cover brake defects on warranty. I am at 53 000 km at this point and they continue to drag and the car pulls to the right. Any other canadians trying to convince Subaru Can. that this IS NOT FAIR and that we need to be covered with the same courtesy they afford American purchasers of their vehicles.
  • blackbeanblackbean Member Posts: 100
    Subaru replaced my front rotors at 1k and my front rotors and pad at 20k on my '02 Bean. Since the last rotor replacement, suspecting over-torqueing (thanks to the auto experts here!), I have always hand torqued all lug nuts IMMEDIATELY after any service.
     
    I have not had any problem in the last 16k. Hopefully this vigialnce will make the rotors last longer.The last dealer visit I had produced all lugs over 120 ft lbs and 5 over 140 ft lbs (off my wrench scale!). The dealer I go to is great except for this - even CostCo hand torques.

    I looked into aftermarket rotors and they all use OEM rotor "blanks" as best as I can tell - so unless you want to go with larger rotor-caliper setup up Mike recoomends, you will probably not see longer rotor life.
    Matt
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Matt, where do you get this info on replacements?

    Brembo and Mountain do not use OEM blanks, heck the only ones I know who use them are stoptech IIRC on their drilled and slotted ones. They use Subaru blanks and slot em.

    Brembo and Mountain produce their own blanks.

    -mike
  • edwardsfamilyedwardsfamily Member Posts: 6
    What do you have them torqued at now? I have contacted a Subaru specialist in my area, Sacramento, Ca and he quoted me new rotors at $45/ea plus labor. The shops recomendations were similar to what Mike is suggesting. This is not as bad as I thought it would be, but will wait until after the car is out of warranty.

    Lee
  • tenkmaniacstenkmaniacs Member Posts: 6
    Well, to answer your question very, very late... I would shift into reverse (required when backing out of a parking space) then shift into drive to go forward. While in drive the engine would race until the gears finally engaged.

    To remedy this problem my transmission was rebuilt to the tune of $3000. To date I have not encountered any other transmission problems (knock wood!!!). However my outback is now back in the shop again because the rear gate is stuck shut. I've been told the actuator is stuck in the locked position, thus prohibiting me from opening the gate. They say they can fix this to the tune of $335. Anyone else ever experience similar problems?

    To the couple people who were unhappy with me venting about the transmission problem...Subaru made design changes to the 1999 outback tranny and I have seen several people, not just on this board but other boards, who had the same problem as I did. The shop who rebuilt my transmission had another outback (1999) in at the same time under going the same sort of work. So perhaps you might be willing to add transmission to your list of known outback issues.

    Regardless, thanks to all of you who had offered advice way back when!

    Oh, btw, my comment about buying German next time was a joke, hence the ;-). I've owned 4 Japanese cars (3 Nissan and 1 Subaru) and have no plans to switch anytime soon. Unless of course someone wants to GIVE me a BMW. >^..^<
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    mike,

    Any idea if a similar resistor controls the same function in recent Subaru ATs?

    Ken
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Not sure but I haven't seen any mention of it so i'm thinking it doesn't exist anymore. Someone actually made a vacum controlled switch for it that disconnected the resistor under heavy load.

    -mike
  • blackbeanblackbean Member Posts: 100
    I torque them at 65 ft lbs (the range given is 58-72) with a click-stop torque wrench.

    The replacement rotors that use OEM (Subaru) blanks are EBC and Powerslot. Brembo did not have any front rotors available for the H6 Outback a year ago (their catalog on the websitew does not list them currently either for a 2002 - although TireRack is now listing Brembos as being available). I will certainly try the Brembos if I need rotors again - although I am hoping that proper lug nut torque will prevent that.

    The main concern I have with the Subaru rotors - if they are indeed "inadequate" - is that the other companies who are slotting, dimpling, drilling or coating these rotors are not going to *significantly* change the overall warp resistance of the metal.

    Matt
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Correct if they are using subaru blanks. We've been testing with racingbrake all kinds of rotors on the impreza and i've learned a lot about rotors etc. The material and casting process is very important, which is why Mountain and Brembo IMHO are the best blanks you are going to find out there, I've used the mountain blanks a lot and they show no warpage as they are a slightly thicker material and better casting process.

    EBC and powerslot never impressed me, nor did drilling :)

    Lemme see if I can get a part # for the H6 front rotors. Interesting no H6 fronts from Brembo or Mountain. Time to upgrade to WRX brackets and rotors :)

    -mike
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    Since you guys are on the subject of brakes:

    My 2005 Outback has 900 miles on it and I noticed a couple days after I bought it, brake nose (friction sound) coming from the rear when slowing to a stop.
    two weeks ago I brought it in and they roughed up one of the rear rotors and pads saying there was a stain on the pad.
    Well after two weeks I still hear it.
    Is it possible dirt got embedded in the pads while it was sitting on the dealer's lot?
    At what point do I say "hey, I thought I was buying a new car... get rid of the noise" or does Suburu use noisy pad material that I'm not use to? ;>)
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Gary,

    Long Beach? Nice area...

    For reasons I don't really understand, I have had more anomalies with my '02 OBW's brakes than any new car I ever purchased (9 of them...). Whenever I travel and the car sits for more than a week, the pads seem to 'weld' themselves to the rotors, and literally need to break away with a loud 'thump' when I press the gas. And I am not alone - a co-worker complains about the same thing. The net is that I end up with patches of rust (pad sized) that take a while to wear away.

    After one such event, the noise and pedal feel was so bad that the dealer readily agreed - replaced one set of pads and turned all 4 rotors. A few months later the car sat at the airport for a week, and the pad patches repeated. My travel companion asked me if it was safe to drive the car as it shuttered to a stop at the first traffic light. Took about 4 days of use to return to normal.

    So bottom line - push the dealer to look at it again if you are unhappy. It is probably the result of sitting on the lot.

    Steve
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Mike, if I remember right, the 01-04 H6 models were already using the WRX brakes. I think they are identical, in fact, based on what other people have reported on nabisco.

    The non H6 models use smaller discs and calipers and would benefit from an upgrade to WRX parts.

    Craig
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    ALL '01-'04 Outbacks have 11.4 inch "WRX" front and 11.3" rear rotors.

    FYI - '00 Outbacks have 10.7 inch front rotors.

    DaveM
  • nagohdnagohd Member Posts: 2
    Hi. Seeking expert knowledge or experiences of others...

    I have LLBean Outback V6 model. Sometimes, there's a cricklet-sounding like clinking on left side of car, speeding up and slowing down with car. This comes and goes, with no apparent cause. Once when it was happening, I braked, and the brakes slipped. I've taken car to repair numerous times, but cricket sound doesn't happen then, and repar staff can't find anything wrong.

    Any insight?

    Thanks in advance!
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    I have a my02 outback wagon with 48k miles . I have had 0 problems with my brakes . I guess I am just easy on the them or very lucky. A long time ago a friend of mine who worked in a brake shop told me 2 things about brakes .

    1 Never rest you foor on the brake pedal . If you drive with both feet change it .

    2 When you come to a stop always let the car roll forward a little bit. That way the heat generated from stopping is spread out on the disk surface .

    Mike k
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Mike,

    Your point #2 is indeed very critical. After a hard stop substantial 'pad transfer' can occur if you keep the pads tightly clamped against the rotor. I have one such stop each morning (the substandard exit ramp off of the Taconic Pkwy), and I always give myself some creep room when I come to a stop at the light for just this reason.

    But my problems always seem to happen after non-use of the car. The worst time occured when I washed and put her away for a week. Brakes were locked up tight as a drum, and within days the dealer was replacing/lathing parts.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Clicking with the speed of the car? Could it be a loose speedo cable?

    On 2nd thought, I think they did away with those and send electric signals now instead.

    -juice
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I had an 02 LL Bean H6, and I did have an ocassional chirp from the engine belt at around 24000 miles in cold/damp weather. I replaced the belt at the 30000 service and it took care of the problem. But in that cas it was obvious that it was related to the engine.

    If your chirp is dependent on road speed and not engine rpm, I wonder if it is the squealer on the brake pads -- they are designed to squeak when the brake pads get worn down, to let you know it's time for new pads.

    If not the pads, I would suspect a bearing -- they also can make a squeaking noise, though it would soon become louder (like a jet engine) as the bearing fails.

    Craig
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Steve,

    The last time I washed my car, the rotors showed slight rust by the time I finished thoroughly drying the car!

    Jim
  • saywhatsaywhat Member Posts: 63
    My 05 Legacy GT Ltd. sedan has a unbelievable strong odor while under medium acceleration. The smell is reminiscent of sweet or rotten eggs. My car has 2,000 miles on it, I broke it in the proper way, and the service manager doesn't know what to do about it. He has contacted SOA, and I have started a case with Subaru, and we are waiting for an answer. The Ser. Manger suggested that maybe they are using different catalytic converters and they are not working right. Between the smell of the cat. conv., and the warm air coming out of the vents on the fresh air setting (101) when the outside air is 79, have made this car a nightmare. I even changed gasoline trying to get a lower sulfer content, all to no avail. The worst part is all the so called experts dont seem to have a clue on how to fix the two problems. And also, there are many other GT owners on other web sites, that are having the same exact problems. My wifes 04 Forrester Turbo is perfect. What the heck has happened to the 05 Leg. GT. Ltd.? (other than a price increase). I'm at the point now where I can't even drive the car because of the smell. My wife has Asthma, and I'm 67 with a heart condition. We both feel sick after being in the car for more than 15 min. Does anyone have any suggestions? I will keep this board informed of SOA's recommendations as we go along with these 2 very aggravating problems. And I thought I was getting a safe car for the winter time, etc. etc. I guess we dont get smarter with age.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Sorry to hear of these problems, definitely not right. Does Patti know about your case?

    Craig
  • saywhatsaywhat Member Posts: 63
    Craig; Yes Patti does know about my case. Considering all the exact same complaints on some of the other forums, this has to be a design and or an eng. problem, or maybe like my Service manager suspects, they may have changed cat. converters. I'll post the answers when I get them from my dealer and SOA. My service manager said that when he was invited to drive the 05 Legacys at some race track by Subaru, all the cars had that same sweet sickening smell, so Subaru knew about it and still brought the car to market in America. I just cant believe that a Japanese Manufacture would bring such a problem car to America. Isn't this what all the domestic cars did 30 or 40 years ago? And look what happened to the domestic car market! But anyway, thanks for your concern Craig.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I am going to assume that everything is tight and that there are no obvious leaks in your exhaust system. Then the only possible explanation is that the exhaust pipe output is somehow (via the vehicles aerodymanics) being trapped underbody and finding its way back into the cabin. If you are willing to experiment, try getting one of those chrome tips from an auto parts store to lengthen/redirect the output from the exhaust pipe. If the problem goes away, then it is indeed one of airflow. If not, then there must be an undetected leak somewhere.

    Steve
  • saywhatsaywhat Member Posts: 63
    Steve; That's a good idea. The only thing is that the GT LTD. Sedan has the two tail pipes that come out pretty far, but I will suggest that to the service manager and let them try it out. (If i bend over that far, It will take me an hour to get back up). Thanks for the suggestion. Bob
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    I've just had my 2.5L manual 2000 OB serviced at 48,000km. Not only have we never had any brake problems the dealer's report estimated 75% remaining on the front brakes and 85% remaining on the rear.

    Although we don't drive the car hard, we live near Vancouver BC and it is normally driven in urban traffic, as well as at least one long road trip a year towing a brakeless tent trailer.

    Thus, I can't help wondering about driving habits. For instance, I am frequently passed by people in another lane as I am slowing for traffic or a red light. Obviously these folk must brake much harder than me in order to stop at the same spot. And I'm assuming that most of them drive automatics which put more stress on the brakes anyway.

    Also, I release the brakes after stopping, and either allow a short roll or simply sit there in neutral if the road is level. I learned to drive in the UK, so I tend to use my parking brake if stopped in traffic for any length of time or on an incline.
  • rayman2rayman2 Member Posts: 3
    You might want to video tape the problem with someone sitting in the back recording the problem going down a straight stretch of road providing shots of the road and steering wheel.
  • rayman2rayman2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback that has a periodic problem with the rear hatch not opening. Holding the remote to unlock all doors, manually hitting the unlock door switch on the drivers side door and manually inserting the key into the hatch to unlock the hatch does not seem unlock the hatch. It started happening 6 months ago but only has the problem for a length of about 1 week and then works until the next month it repeats itself again.

    Has anyone experienced this problem before?
  • topthattopthat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 outback with eng. knock when first started which last about 30 min. are longer the dealer says this is normal no help from subaru
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I know that this is probably not what you want to hear, but it may indeed be normal. Many of us are experiencing it, few are overjoyed at listening to it, but we are learning to accept it. Here is the deal:

    A knock that begins when the engine is cold and goes away once fully warmed up (length of time varies between a few minutes and up to 15 or so) is probably due to something called "piston slap". The quest for reduced reciprocating mass has caused many mfgrs to shorten the piston's lower skirt around the wrist pin area. The result is that the piston can oscillate in the bore, making the noise. It is not a "Subaru only" thing, and has been discussed in news articles on engine design.

    SoA, like most mfgrs, has a time/noise level spec on what is considered 'normal', and what warrants possible piston replacement with slightly oversized units. Call them and open a case if you are really concerned and have a factory rep listen to the car on a cold start. But chances are it is something you will have to learn to ignore. Believe me, I find the sound a bit distressing as will, but at least understand the cause.

    Steve
  • amsbearamsbear Member Posts: 147
    Yep, I do. I notice on mine that there is a good deal of rust on the hatch lever hinges and springs. This seems to interfere with the latch returning to its normal position. Locking it with that latch/handle in the pulled position causes some difficulty when trying to unlock and reopen the next time.

    My solution is to make sure that after I close the hatch, I push the lever towards the car (the springs are supposed to do this) then lock it with the remote.

    Spray some WD-40 (or something like it) onto the lever mechanism every so often to keep it lubed and prevent further rust.

    I think that a lot of this rusting is due to moisture from the exhaust.

    Hope this helps.

    Alan
    98 OBW Ltd
  • philip22philip22 Member Posts: 10
    Do you still have this problem? I have a 99 Outback and have a constant squeak from the front brakes and I had the pads and rotors replaced at 40K and since then have been told the squeak is "normal."
  • papagpapag Member Posts: 4
    Good idea. I'm starting to think that, for some reason, one wheel is getting more torque than the others, since alignment, etc. appears to be fine.
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    I also have a 02 obw . I now have 48 k miles on it . My car started to knock at 6k miles when temp was below 30 degrees. It would last about 5 mins then go away . Took it to the dealer and they gave me a sub tech bulletin about it . See (fibber2 remarkes).
    Fast forward to Jan 04 42k miles on car . The knock got progressivly worst and would knock at all temps at start up .Took it back to the dealer and had the District Serv Rep listen to it. He consulted with the Sub Tech Line and they said that if the noise goes away after 15 mins that it is normal . My noise didn't go away it would be quieter but was still there at all times . Was told they would get back to me . I got the call 2 days later to bring car in to have countermeasure pistons installed . They only do the #2and #4 pistons on the drivers side of engine .They had the car for 2 days . I now have put 6k miles on it and it is much quieter at start up . I still have very slight knock but goes away in 15-30 seconds.the real test will be when the temps get below 30 degrees.
    Throught this whole time my car never burned a drop of oil and ran like a champ other then the knock noise .
    I was able to see the pistons that came out and there was some wear near the wrist pin .Just the moly coating worn off . The cylinder walls had no wear at all.
    So I guess all I'm saying is stay with it get the District Serv Rep involved and call the 800# for SOA and get a case # . As I said before the main thing is that if the noise goes away they won't do any repairs .

    Hope this helps
    Mike k
  • mlouttitmlouttit Member Posts: 19
    I have owned a 94 Legacy wagon, a 96 Legacy Outback, and a 99 Legacy Wagon. One problem I have universally had is bad tire wear. I rotate every 3,000 and align every 6,000 and I still can't get 12,000 miles out of a set of tires. I have taken them to many garages and tried many different tires. The last attempt was in March. The dealer aligned the car and I bought new tires. Now, here we are 8,000 miles later and the tires are at 3/32 and the edges are gone.

    I am in the market for a new car and I really like the 2005 Legacy. But, I am very hesitant to get another Subaru just because of the expense of all of the alignments and tires.

    By comparison, we didn't have to align our Honda for 30,000 miles and tire wear has been great.

    Anyone else having problems with tire wear and does anyone know if it is better with the 2005?

    Thanks
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