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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Thanks. I had planned to "replace the brake fluid" as per the maintenance chart. I'll have to do it in the sequence you list.

     

    Stanton
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Does anyone know if the center differential on the '02 Legacy wagon with 4cyl engine and MT5 is open or limited-slip?

     

    Stanton
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Stanton,

     

    I believe the full answer is:

    Front = open on all

    Rear = limited slip on all '02 Outbacks, open on Legacy L, optional (?) limited slip on GT (?)

    Center = limited slip on all, but engagement is different depending on the tranny (mechanical on MT, electronic on AT)

     

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The viscous coupling acts as your center diffy.

     

    It is limited-slip. A change in axle speeds will heat up and sheer the fluid inside the coupling, locking the two axles together temporarily.

     

    -juice
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    I'd like to upgrade the stereo sound on my '02 Legacy L wagon, with 4-speaker stereo and single-CD player. Would you recommend upgrading the speakers first, or doing the subwoofer first, in terms of biggest improvement for the dollar? I should specify that ultra-high frequencies don't matter much; I have high-frequency hearing loss and use hearing aids (though my wife doesn't). The subwoofer seems to be about $180 and the speakers (either Kenwood or Pioneer, from Crutchfield) are about $50 each.

     

    Also, thanks to those advising about the brake pad change; like many things on the Subie, it was really easy. Surprisingly, the rear pads were nearly down to the scrapers, but fronts were only halfway worn.

     

    Stanton
  • bykracrbykracr Member Posts: 1
    I have a '05 Subaru Legacy 2.5i. Had the first systems of pulsating on downhills. Now at 10k the cruise control stays set for approx. 10 minutes and then disengages. Took it to the dealer but no solution as of yet.
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    Surprisingly, the rear pads were nearly down to the scrapers, but fronts were only halfway worn.

     

    I've encountered the same on my 3 previous Subarus.

     

    DaveM
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Surprisingly, the rear pads were nearly down to the scrapers, but fronts were only halfway worn.

     

    Me too (or is it "Me three").

     

    Jim
  • 98 lob98 lob Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

     

    I've got a 98 Legacy Outback and have a fairly significant hesitation at slow speeds and slight throttle application. Tooling around a parking lot is the prime example. I've not done anything yet (such as spark plugs, air filter) and am running regular unleaded. Any ideas?

     

    D
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    I would highly recommend having the fuel injectors cleaned. Costs about $89. Also, depending on the mileage, plugs, fuel and air filters. Rob M.
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    >>I'd like to upgrade the stereo sound on my '02 Legacy L wagon, with 4-speaker stereo and single-CD player. Would you recommend upgrading the speakers first, or doing the subwoofer first, in terms of biggest improvement for the dollar?<<


     
    There's a lengthy thread on ultimatesubaru.net on changing speakers. As suggested there, I bought Infinity Kappas. Crutchfield doesn't seem to know anything about Subarus and was 30% more than I paid elsewhere.

     

    I wanted CD and Cassette, and wound up buying a new Outback AM/FM/Cassette/CD/weatherband unit on eBay for $159.
  • rumc3rumc3 Member Posts: 31
    I put Bridgestone LSH's on my '97 GT Wagon a few years ago (after talking with Tire Rack...the guy recommended them), and they still are great tires today. Stick like glue on rainy, twisty roads at speed. Never felt more secure in any of the cars I've owned and I've been driving since the early 60's. Didn't notice any deterioration in gas mileage....still around 24mpg overall, with auto trans.

     

    The Sube now has 91K, and am thinking about getting a new one, although this car still runs great. I test drove the '05 GT Limited Wagon with auto. and WOW! I can't believe how fast it is. Only disadvantage I can see is that you need Premium gas for the twin turbo. About the same gas mileage rating as my '97.
  • sdufordsduford Member Posts: 577
    It's a single turbo, not twin.

     

    As for the Premium gas, if your willing to pay the price premium for the Turbo, the gas is not that big of a deal. I figure it's costing me an extra $300 per year or so. I look at it as my amusement tax, well worth the price! :)

     

    Sly
  • rumc3rumc3 Member Posts: 31
    Hmmm. I thought I'd read somewhere it was twin turbo....

     

    Good point you make about the "amusement" charge... After driving the '05, I can appreciate that!
  • sdufordsduford Member Posts: 577
    Definitely single, and actually my memory was failing me, it's actually more like $150 per year. Pretty small price to pay for the fun factor.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    That is very cheap for the added thrills! I honestly think I have more fun in my OB XT than I did in my WRX. The larger 2.5 motor is a lot more fun around town (at legal speeds).

     

    Craig
  • joelogjoelog Member Posts: 11
    Hi Stanton. I recently upgraded my speakers on a 2004 Outback wagon. I got the Infinity reference. Definately an improvement, however I decided to also get the subwoofer/amplifier which I think is worth the upgrade. However I got the one made by subaru from subaruparts.com since it seemed to fit the car the best, anyway it makes a big difference to me. Crutchfield had a sale on the speakers at the time and they do have installation instructions and wire harness for the subaru at least for the speakers.

    Joe
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    wound up buying a new Outback AM/FM/Cassette/CD/weatherband unit on eBay for $159.

     

    Garandman,

     

    Does this unit have MP3 compatilibility on the CD player?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • casd2casd2 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 OBW makes a really bad thumping sound when I turn left and right. The mechanic is telling me I need a new transmission. Anyone else have this problem? I only have 69,000 on the car it seems a bit too soon for a new transmission.
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    This morning I had a scare on the parkway with my 05 OB Limited with 5,000 miles. In stop and go traffic, I had to brake hard at one point and the brakes seemed to think about it before slowing down and ABS kicking in. I've experienced this before on the highway... the feeling that the brakes just weren't working as hard as they should... but this time was the worst... just not confidence inspiring at all.

    Does any one else here feel the 05 brakes are too weak? I should email Subaru.

     

    Another thing... is it normal for the tranny to act funny for the first few blocks on a cold morning (jerky shifting)?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    It is normal for the tranny to 'act funny' when cold. I've heard that the car delays shifting until higher RPMs to help it warm up, IIRC.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I think we answered the tranny one for you before -- when it's cold, the transmission delays upshifts in order to warm up the fluid quicker. It is intentional and perfectly normal. Should be normal after about 5 minutes of driving.

     

    As far as the brakes go, you should be able to invoke ABS immediately in almost any situation if you press down hard enough (in other words, what would be a wheel lock without ABS). It sounds like you were not in that situation. Normally, you can make some pretty hard stops without ABS -- it's only the imminent/actual lockup conditions that cause it to kick in. Regardless, the brakes have more than enough power to invoke ABS if you press hard enough at almost any speed, so they can't really improve the braking beyond that point. Going to larger brakes would improve fade resistance but ultimately ABS is going to be the determining factor in stopping power.

     

    Subaru brakes have a little mush at the top of the pedal travel, but bite very hard once you push further. I have been very satisfied with the brakes on my 05 Outback XT.

     

    Craig
  • loabnloabn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Forrester and I can't shift out of park. I read that it may be due to cold weather, but it's not cold outside, any other thoughts? I've also been told that it mayu be a fuse or a cable of some sort. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Is there a little slot with a cover near the shifter bezel?? You should be able to remove the cover and stick a key in there to release the shifter interlock. If doing that allows you to get out of park, then I would say some aspect of the shifter interlock needs to be fixed. It's wired to the brake pedal, so that you can only shift out of park with the brake depressed. There could be a problem with the switch on the brake pedal or with the interlock solenoid, or the wiring in between.

     

    Look in the manual -- I believe they would discuss the override feature if it exists on your car.

     

    Craig
  • grimmreapergrimmreaper Member Posts: 1
    additionally I think you may need to keep your foot on the brake before you can move the shift lever.

     

    If I understand this correctly, there is a interlock between the brake and the shift lever that will not allow an inadvertant shift without the brake being engaged.
  • WMartonWMarton Member Posts: 58
    The speedometer and tachometer on my 2001 OB VDC w/ 32k miles are out. I took it to a local dealer and was informed that a circuit plate (board?) needs to be replaced. Here's the rub: replacing the circuit plate will reset the odometer. The dealer will install a tag to affix to the door jamb indicating the mileage at replacement. I don't know whether or not this would be noted on the title if the vehicle is sold. Here is my concern: zeroing out the mileage will probably create major headaches for me if I ever re-sell the vehicle because this is usually a red flag for people, possibly indicating that the vehicle has been tampered with or that there is some type of hidden problem. So far, nobody--the dealer or Subaru--has been particularly helpful in finding a solution. The inability to retain an odometer reading if a circuit board is replaced does not seem like very smart engineering to me. I'll keep folks informed as to what happens.

     

    Bill
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The plate is just there to keep you honest. No biggie, as long as you let the future owner know.

     

    -juice
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I wouldn't worry about it too much -- it happens more often than you think, and they do take legal steps to make sure it is on the record. My understanding is that if it's done in cooperation with Subaru of America, they make a special record of it.

     

    I hear of this issue on other forums where people switch to different instrument clusters. Some are honest about it, some not. As long as Subaru has a record of it, I think you're OK in this case.

     

    Craig
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    Just like the man said, "I wouldn't worry about it too much" -- but only because there's nothign you can do about it; it needs to be done.

     

    It does affect your vehicle's value; unless I really got this wrong, your car becomes True Mileage Unknown (TMU) as soon as the odometer reading does not accurately reflect the mileage.

     

    Same thing if you imported a Canadian vehicle.

     

    Now, the mileage won't be "unknown" at all, so you might convince a private owner that it's no big deal. Best thing to do is hop on over to "Any Questions for a Car Dealer" on "Smart Shopper" and ask for advice on how to do this. It's one of those sticky things where nothing's wrong with the car, but it throws up a red flag and questions need to be answered... so at the auction, a lot of people will move on to the next car. CarFax will show it as "possible odometer rollback", cuz it's just a stupid computer program... dunno if you can do anything about THAT.

     

    It's got to be done, but document it tight, and don't take my word for it, ask the pros.

     

    This TMU business can take away $500 from your car's value, or $5,000... depending on how it's presented and what you can "prove".

     

    Good luck,

    -Mathias
  • sms2sms2 Member Posts: 2
    4563  Re:05'LegacyGT 5EAT WagonWon'tStart jsun: Our '05 Outback also won't start by sms2   Jan 20, 2005 (7:41 am)

    Reply

     

    Your messages describe exactly what happened with our new Outback this week. So, apparently, your car's failure (and ours) is not an isolated incident. We bought our 2005 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5 XT Ltd. (5-speed manual) on Dec. 30, 2004 and less than 3 weeks later on Jan. 18, 2005, when the temperatures had fallen to the teens, the car would not start (same problem that you described). As the first snow of the season hit northern Virginia, there I was yesterday on Jan. 19, 2005 riding in a flatbed tow truck to take our brand new Subaru back to the dealer. We were shocked when this new Subaru wouldn't start. This is the third Subaru we've owned since purchasing our first Subaru in 1982 when we lived "out West"; we kept that 1982 Subaru for almost 20 years, trading it in for a 2001 model, and then just trading in that car for a 2005 turbo-charged model. Our previous confidence in the dependability of Subarus is sorely shaken by this experience, especially after talking with another owner at the dealer yesterday who had experienced a series of electrical problems with his 2005 Subaru and then finding your messages. We read your subsequent messages and are going through a similar process with the dealer. Please keep us updated on your experiences, and we'll post an update after we hear from our dealer. Thanks.
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    I wouldn't worry too much. The instrument cluster in my 99 GT was replaced at 38k when the speedometer stopped working. The new one was set to zero. There is a tag on the door jamb.

     

    The dealer has the actual mileage recorded in their records. When they do oil changes, the little sticker on the windshield always reflects the actual mileage for the next service. Maintenance records for the VIN on this car in mysubaru.com also reflects the actual mileage.

     

    Rob M.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    It does affect your vehicle's value; unless I really got this wrong, your car becomes True Mileage Unknown (TMU) as soon as the odometer reading does not accurately reflect the mileage.

     

    I believe this is not the case if it's done through SOA as a warranty repair on the failed cluster.

     

    Craig
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Can you tell us the symptoms?

     

    Craig
  • bcurriebcurrie Member Posts: 6
    The catalytic converter on my 96 Outback died at 130,000 miles. Now my 01 Outback needs a cat at 120,000. Is this a trend? What is reasonable to replace both units? Is there aftermarket alternative to the dealer? Does the transmission have anything to do with cat life? Both of my OB's were manuals. I am looking forward to a new OB soon and am wondering if any particular engine/transmission combination would make any difference. Thanks for all your help.
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    I have a 98 Forrester and I can't shift out of park. I read that it may be due to cold weather, but it's not cold outside, any other thoughts? I've also been told that it mayu be a fuse or a cable of some sort. Any help would be much appreciated.


     
    Look in your owner's manual - the procedure for unlocking the shifter is detailed there.
  • WMartonWMarton Member Posts: 58
    Two things concern me: first, because of my cynical nature, I worry that if I ever try to trade in the car a dealership will use the fact that "total mileage is unknown" as a negotiating ploy against me. Even if they knew the correct mileage, it would seem a reasonable argument could be made that they will bear substantial risk trying to re-sell the vehicle and would offer a lower trade-in price.

     

    Second, Subaru's response to the problem has been very cavalier...nothing can be done; simply replace the circuit board and accept the zeroed-out odometer. This bothers me quite a bit. Why isn't the chip that stores the odometer memory replaceable, or at least programmable? Seems like poor engineering to me. They should be able to program a memory chip with the appropriate mileage and have the dealer install it. The other thing that bothers me is the fact that the VDC is Subaru's highend vehicle (at least until the Tribeca comes to market this year) yet I feel that nobody is going out of their way to fix the speedo/tach in a way that will possibly avoid a future problem for me (selling the vehicle). Subaru wants to go upscale with the Tribeca, which I am clearly in the market for, yet this experience is really beginning to cloud my view of Subaru. Would this happen at a Lexus or Acura dealership?

     

    Bill
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    Could you imagine scams going on if it would be the case.

    What milage do you want on your car ? - would be the sales slogan for the equipment.

     

    Krzys

     

    PS As far as I can tell they try to serve you well.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Have to agree - locked and tamper-proof is the right approach for the protection of everyone.

     

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Try an aftermarket parts store for the cat. A long, long time ago I got one for a Mustang for $80 or so. I'm sure it costs more nowadays.

     

    -juice
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    Try an aftermarket parts store for the cat.

     

    Maybe check at the local SPCA too. :-D

     

    DaveM
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    And don't forget to spay/neuter. ;-)

     

    -juice
  • WMartonWMarton Member Posts: 58
    After calling the Subaru dealership back, here is the proposed solution: do exactly what you thought wasn't kosher. Subaru suggested sending the circuit plate to Palo Alto Speedometer, Inc. and have them program the new odometer/NVM chip with the correct mileage. The cost to me is $125 plus S/H. I have to sign a liability waiver holding Palo Alto harmless because tampering with the odometer, i.e., setting it to an inaccurate mileage number, is quite illegal. I will let folks know how this turns out.

     

    Bill
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    I encountered a bit of clutch judder in my new-to-me '02 Legacy L. Since the car now has 57,000 miles on it, I wanted to know if I had a problem that was covered by the TSB before the warranty runs out in 3000 miles. Anyway, I did a search on the topic in these pages and someone mentioned a couple of years ago that he fixed his shudder by lubing the under-dash clutch linkage pivots with spray-type motorcycle chain lube. I tried it, and the clutch is much better. I'll know in our next cold snap (Sunday or Monday) whether that is the final answer.

     

    Just thought I'd pass this along, because it indicates that at least some part of the clutch judder is not in the clutch mechanism itself, but in the under-dash linkage pivots. VERY easy fix.

     

    Stanton
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    If it's the true judder issue (I hope it's not) then the clutch material is transferring to the flywheel in cold/damp weather and the judder vibration is leaving hotspots on your flywheel. My parent's 00 Outback had the judder issue, and my dad looked at the old flywheel when they did the fix. Not pretty at all! SO you better hope your case is fixed by the lube!!

     

    If it is the real judder issue, I would recommend calling the Subaru 1-800 number and seeing if they can cover the repair for you. My parent's got a runaround from the dealer and regional rep because they were out of the 3/36 warranty. But, they called SOA directly and pushed for the repair under the 5/60 warranty. SOA did the right thing and covered the repair. The car has been fine since.

     

    Craig
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Thanks, Craig. This is why I did the lube bit right away: I want to know ASAP if that does the trick, or if I need to go to Subaru with it. We're expecting freezing weather tomorrow night, so that'll be the real test. As of this moment, the clutch feels quite a bit smoother, but then it is about 65 degrees outside!

     

    BTW, thanks to the advice of several on this group, I bought a new subwoofer this morning on eBay for $125 including shipping.
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Second, Subaru's response to the problem has been very cavalier...nothing can be done; simply replace the circuit board and accept the zeroed-out odometer. This bothers me quite a bit. Why isn't the chip that stores the odometer memory replaceable, or at least programmable? Seems like poor engineering to me. They should be able to program a memory chip with the appropriate mileage and have the dealer install it.


    It's good engineering. Most states have a provision in the title for recording an odometer reading which is different from actual mileage. It is not so uncommon since mechanical speedometers did break or wear out.

     

    One way "Iron Merchants" make money on used cars is to twiddle the odometer. They can build in up to $2,000 in profits. New car dealer operations would never risk this but it's not hard to uncover.
  • cpstarcpstar Member Posts: 31
    ..."can't shift out of park"...

    You could have a bad shift cable (~cost=$100 for part). Was it getting harder and harder to shift between gears before this happened? If that were the case the shift cable is a likely cause. Winter conditions (salt/sand/ice/snow) do contribute to excessive corrosion, and prolonged exposure to those conditions tend to take a toll.
  • cpstarcpstar Member Posts: 31
    loabn:

    Your problem sounds a bit like what is mentioned elsewhere. I found the following in the Chrysler Sebring Owners: Problems & Solutions forum. What you see below may be of help to you.

    ----------

    #165 of 182 car won't shift out of park on cold days by chitra Dec 19, 2004 (12:46 pm)

    Bookmark | Reply We have a 2004 Sebring Convertible GTC that will not shift out of park on cold days. The only consistency we could find is that it locks when the temperature has a sharp drop overnight. Then it will lock up in the mornings and by the time it warms up in the afternoon, it works. We have had it repaired once already. Now two months later it is broke again (or never fixed properly). The dealer replaced the shifter (?). Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any ideas?

     

    #167 of 182 Same as #165 by danbrown Dec 22, 2004 (11:03 am)

    Bookmark | Reply I am having the same problem as chitra in message #165. My car is a 2001 Sebring LX1 with 21000. My dealer thinks it is in the ignition to shifter cable (auto on floor). They say the adjustment is OK. We have also had a problem with not being able to get the key out on cold days (interior still cold), but when interior is warmed up all seems to be OK. Any Ideas?

     

    #168 of 182 Re: car won't shift out of park on cold days [chitra] by danbrown Dec 24, 2004 (9:56 am)

    Bookmark | Reply My Question is #167. The dealer told me yesterday that the lock-out cable from switch to shifter was shot. They didn't have one in stock but are getting one by Dec. 29 to install. They disconnected mine and it works but you can shift out of park with-out the key. They first told me that they couldn't see any problem with it but now they say it is bad. My car is an automatic on the floor. By then it is going to warm up some so will have to wait for cold weather again. Also there were times that I couldn't get the key out until the car warmed up. I live in Iowa.

      

    #171 of 182 Re: car won't shift out of park on cold days [chitra] by chitra Dec 27, 2004 (8:36 am)

    Bookmark | Reply Update: This time the dealer replaced the "interlock cable". We'll see if this lasts. But, as was our experience prior, it was an utter nightmare getting it repaired. They "lost" our car. Afte 45 minutes of phone calls between us, the dealer and the tow company, we were told to fill out a police report as our car was missing. So we drive tot he dealership and find our car in 5 seconds, right outside their shop.
  • ssteveksstevek Member Posts: 45
    I've got a '98 Outback with the 5-speed manual with about 92k. Recently when flooring the throttle I can see the clutch slipping, such as when attempting to pass a vehicle at highway speeds. But, the strange thing is, not every time. Sometimes it's as if there's not any slippage at all. Also a "chirping" type noise developed recently that is heard when the clutch is engaged, if I press the clutch even slightly it subsides. I know clutch replacements can be very expensive. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to replace the transmission with an automatic. I'm only considering that for other family members who have trouble driving a manual. Also I wonder why the engine turns at about 3200 rpm at 65mph? It's always been like this. The engine certainly has enough torque to get away with probably almost 1000 less rpm at that speed. I'm wondering if the automatic gearing is a little higher. The '92 Legacy I had turned at about 2300 rpm @ 65mph, but it wasn't all wheel drive.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    That does sound a little high to me for 65 mph. Mine is an auto, so again there could be tranny differences, but at 65 mph it runs at 2600 and by 70 it ups to about 2800-2900. I've always thought that this was a little high. Our '92 Camry always cruised at 2100 rpm @ 70 mph and the '94 Mustang my mother owned would be at 1600-1700 rpm at these speeds. Of course, neither were AWD and, obviously, both got better highway gas mileage.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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