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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • harrys1harrys1 Member Posts: 12
    My 2001 Outback had the same problem. The squealing was from the left rear. If I reached in and touched the left rear brake drum area (after experiencing the squeal), it was much hotter than the right rear and my brake pads on the left side were mostly worn out, but not the right. I got replacement pads and ground them slightly to loosen the fit in their retainers. Problem is gone.

    What happens if that even though the hydraulic pressure released upon releasing the brake pedal, the pads remained pressed hard against the rotor. Grinding them made them fit less tightly and thus release when the wheel cylinder pressure releases.

    Also, you should check the caliper slides and the piston for binding although those were fine on my car. If all your brakes squeal and heat up excessively then all are binding and the problem is that your master cylinder is not releasing hydraulic pressure from the brake wheel cylinders. There needs to be a little "free" pedal at the top of the stroke. You should be able to push the pedal with your hand and feel a slight push before you feel resistance, otherwise your brakes might be slightly applied even when the pedal is fully released. Replacing rotors will not repair this problem and is only needed if 1. they are warped due to excessive heat (you will know this due to a pulsating brake pedal when you apply the brakes) or 2. they are warn beyond specs., or 3. if you gouged them by wearing the brake pads down to the metal backing.
  • harrys1harrys1 Member Posts: 12
    If you had the defroster on then you are forcing the air conditioner to come on which would raise idle speed and cause your cooling fans to come on. In this case the fans come on regardless of engine temperature. Yes, the air conditioner DOES come on with use of front window defroster to aid in removing condensation.
  • senturi1senturi1 Member Posts: 8
    My wife's 2002 Outback was hit by another vehicle the other day, and the left front fender was damaged. Had the body shop quote the repair and the estimate came to $732. The fender will be replaced and painted. There was no other damage to the vehicle. I mentioned that I wanted OEM parts. The repair facility acknowledged they use OEM parts. Should I request that the new fender be undercoated? What else should I be made aware of on the repair?
  • jsunjsun Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the feedback. I hope yours stay that way.

    Jun
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Harry,

    Not sure if you are aware of this, but the procedure you just described is the subject of a Subaru Service Bulletin to dealers to address premature pad wear on '01 - '03 vehicles. It is #06-33-04, issued in early '04. A slight filing of the backing plate ends to allow them to move in the caliper more freely is recommended, but only on original pads. I guess this means that OEM replacement pads must already be 10/1000" shorter than what came with the car.

    Steve
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    You can either learn how to (safely) hotwire your starter, which will help to reveal the source of the problem as well as get you going.

    Or you can get a dealer's mechanic to your car, with diagnostic equipment, when it's acting up.

    Nothing else will get you a car that you can rely on. Towing the car to the dealer or arguing with Subaru of A will accomplish nothing until the problem happens more frequently. Around 2007, say.

    -Mathias
  • harrys1harrys1 Member Posts: 12
    I replaced originals with Autozone pads. Only had slight problem with original pads. After Autozone replaced their lifetime warranty pads I ground them to fit looser. I was surprised they replaced them, given there was little wear on the right side (the lefts were worn out) so they must have known there was a problem with the vehicle, but they did replace them.
  • harrys1harrys1 Member Posts: 12
    I have an '01 Outback w/58000 mi. and the clutch did slip in 5th on the highway last week. In fact I have an appointment for dealer to inspect, although it typically does not slip. I've gotten well over 100,000 mi. with other cars and not needed a clutch. Dealer promised nothing yet, but said might be able to do clutch for parts only ($250) and no labor on drive train warranty. He said nothing about TSB on clutch. Do you have info on clutch TSB? Does the $250 clutch deal sound fair, if offered?

    Thanks.
  • harrys1harrys1 Member Posts: 12
    My '01 Outback w/2.5 liter w/58,000 mi. sounds like a tractor when started on a cold day. At idle it sounds normal, but give it some gas and it "ticks" loudly, particularly if under 20 degrees outside. Once warm, it sounds like brand new. Does not use oil, no head gasket problems. Dealer told me that this is normal and Subaru will do nothing under drive train warranty. Anyone have any experience with this?

    Thanks.
  • jsunjsun Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the remote starter idea, and I'll keep it in my back pocket. For now, I don't think I should tinker with it myself. The Subaru warranty clearly states that unauthorized modifications made to the vehicle may void warranty. Beside, I do have a back up that I can drive when the Legacy dies so I don't have to rely on a remote starter. I'm trying out another dealership in town. The car is currently on their parking lot for an extended cool down. There's supposed to be a winter storm coming the next couple of days, and I'm praying for some bad bad weather so they can catch it in the act.
    Jun
  • fitzyfitzy Member Posts: 5
    If my leaky sunroof is caused by the drain system and say it was plugged.....how does one fix this issue, without going to the dealer??
    The 02, LLB has 2 sunroofs, pretty sure it's in the front one though.
    Thanks.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    It takes some getting used to, but yes, it is considered to be pretty normal for this engine design. Mechanical valve lifters (no cold lash takeup), plus short piston skirts that tend to allow the piston to oscillate in the bores when cold (called piston slap) combine to kick up quite a fuss until the engine warms up. I was told that if the noise goes away within 15 minutes of a sub 20'F start, it is not considered a problem. A bulletin to dealers says pretty much the same - no service work required.

    Steve
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Check here on Edmunds: http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/MaintenanceServlet

    That will get you all the TSB's for your OB.

    Mark
  • kellerc4kellerc4 Member Posts: 17
    So I went to the dealer today to drop off the car. I asked them to look into the car running hot, and also the fact that I got less than 20mpg on my first tank of gas despite perfect tire pressure and very conservative shifting.

    While there, I finally got a copy of the 30k service they did to prepare teh car for sale. I compared it to the Subaru maintenance interval recommendations. Everything matched, except my dealer does not replace brake fluid. I showed them the print out of what Subaru calls for, and they said that every dealer gets to create their own 30k mile service package, and this dealer does not include brake fluid change in the package.

    Strike anyone else as weird?!?

    Chuck
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'da, my technque for clearing fine drains is to buy four metres of 4mm irrigation pipe (the thin black semi-rigid hose used in drip watering systems and fabricate a hose connection at the end (I used silicon rubber and a click-fit connector. You need to locate the drain outlet under the car (check location by feeding the hose from the top in the clear drain and then find equivalent hole on other side - it may not be obvious) and then carefully feed the hose up inside. If you hit an obstruction, use the water jet to clear it. You can modify this by cutting or drilling side jets near the end of the hose and capping the end (again, I've used silicone) which clears gunk from the drain's sides.

    In my 99 Outback, I used this hose technique to clear accumulated mud from the fender area immediately in front of the front doors, an area which does not drain easily if the vehicle is frequently used on dirt roads.

    One warning. Make sure your seats are well protected with towels and have a helper who can watch and turn the hose off if you suddenly start to hose out the car's interior.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    I have an '05 Outback Limited Auto (no turbo...just the base engine with 4spd automatic).
    The transmission is uncooperative at certain speeds... even if I have it in sport mode. Sometimes it will not shift at certain speeds...and the engine will just roar. Sometimes it will react properly, many times it will not. Also, it jerks badly when slowing the car down for the first few blocks, after sitting and cold. I was told this is normal.
    I have averaged 20.4 mpg for 6500 miles.

    The brakes can be scary. Sometimes while braking on the highway, they feel soft until I brake harder..(I was told this is normal for Subaru Outbacks).
    If I am going over potholes or a bump while braking, the ABS will kick in and I will lose the brakes for a moment or two...very very scary. I have driven several cars with ABS and some did this, some did not... What is normal behavior for a car with ABS? I mean it actually feels like I have absolutely no brakes when this happens. It can mean hitting someone if I hit the brakes while going over bumps!
    Now, it's hesitating when starting up from a stop.
  • squaredsquared Member Posts: 1
    I have been scoring the internet to find others with my problem. My 03 vibrates on acceleration. I get the tires balanced, and it gets better, but not perfect. I am on my 3rd set of tires. I am already on 75K (I commute...). This has been a problem since 20K, but I just kept going with the balance thing. Or the tires have uneven wear. Or pressure. I CONSTANTLY check the pressure in my tires. On my commute to work yesterday, the vibration got so bad I took it in to the dealership immediately. They called and said I had spotting on my tires. They said uneven pressure. I said, "That's why I had to get new tires 6 months ago and now I check pressure constantly". They suggested taking the tires back to where I got them and see if I can get money back. I said, "Fine. Put the tires in the old tires in the back of my car." I got a call later. "Um. The problem is better, but it didn't fix it. We can't get back to it today, can you leave it here to work on Tuesday." I couldn't because, as I said, I commute and I didn't have a way to get the 70miles home without my car. I said, "I'll pick it up and bring it back." The vibration, with the new tires and alignment are ABSOLUTELY no better. So, $600 in new tires. I don't know if they will put my old tires back on my car and maybe put the $600 in credit toward whatever it is that is really wrong with my car.

    The point is... I had a 98 Impreza that I traded in for this car because of the same type of problem. I blamed myself for the vibration in the Impreza because really dogged that car. (It was fun, but I had thought I killed it.) I have treated the car gently. I have found vibration in OB a problem in several places, but have not seen anyone find the solution. If I do find a solution, I promise to post. Please let me know if anyone else can relate or finds a solution.
  • smillersmiller Member Posts: 32
    My Subie is parked in the garage every night, but when I back it out in the morning the brakes seem to make a grinding sound. Sometimes it will last for several miles every time I apply the brakes. I owned a 1999 Outback and it only made that sound after I washed it and left it in the garage overnight. Anyone else have brake concerns? The brakes on my 1999 lasted almost 50,000 miles and I don’t feel the brakes on the 2005 will last 20k. In some ways I feel the 1999
    Outback was a better car, I hope the 05 has better head gaskets.
  • tickmantickman Member Posts: 16
    My brakes on my 05XT also 'grind' while backing out of the drive. We've had lots of rain, ice and salt on the roads. After a night in the garage, there are red rust spots on the rotors. I thought the grinding was just the pads polishing the rotors.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    If I wash mine and put it away wet, my rotors will rust themselves to the pads like glue, and will break free with a 'bump' when I tickle the gas. It is an unusual situation, one that I have never experienced before, yet it seems to be common on Subaru brakes. And yes, they will 'grind' for a while until the rotor is wiped completely clean again.

    Steve
  • sdufordsduford Member Posts: 577
    I've also noticed that when my OBXT is parked for a few days at the airport, when I come back the rotors are completely covered in rust and they will "grind" for a few miles.

    I've never had another car do that.

    Sly
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't think that's unique to your Outback. My Miata does that, especially the day after I wash it.

    -juice
  • tmontytmonty Member Posts: 16
    Hi Guys,

    Need some advice. I'll probably be purchasing a Legacy Wagon 2.5i or a base Outback Wagon in the next few months. My wife prefers the Outback and I prefer the Legacy. So we'll probably compromise and get the Outback =) We do some camping/Skiing/biking/etc and a Thule box is a common fixture atop our current vehicle... so the Outback would probably be a better fit. However, I'm a little concerned with the motorized seat adjustments for the driver side. I'm ~6' and my wife is ~5'4" so every time either one of us will get into the car, the seat will need to be adjusted (front/back, up/down, and backrest rake). I've never had motorized seat adjustments... preferring the mechanical, spring-loaded controls for reliability reasons. Does anybody have any info regarding past reliability issues on these electrical motors? If history is any indication, I will likely keep the vehicle for 10 years or so. I want to make sure that I'm not replacing one (or more) of these motors every couple of years. If there have been issues in the past, I may just bite the bullet and go for the more "urbanite" Legacy Wagon with the mechanical adjustments.

    Tom
  • kellerc4kellerc4 Member Posts: 17
    My 03 manual trans outback managed just 225 miles before hitting "E"
    on the gas gauge. I know it is winter and the gas is oxygenated,
    but with a brand new fuel filter and air filter and properly
    inflated tires, why am I getting such terrible mileage? Today I
    drove highway for about 30 miles, cruise control set at 65 and I
    felt like I could SEE the gauge dropping!! Dare I say that my
    wife's Mitsu Montero gets better mileage than a 4cyl Subie?!?!?

    HELP! Dealer says everything is fine...
  • bobn04bobn04 Member Posts: 6
    Hello all,

    I am hoping someone can provide some guidance… I have a ’00 Subaru Legacy wagon with a 2.5 liter engine. I had to have both head gaskets replaced at around 40k miles under warranty. Last summer I received a recall notice saying that the dealer wanted me to bring my car in to have a treatment added to my antifreeze to prevent the head gasket from leaking again. I did this and they have extended my head gasket warranty to 100k miles

    Last week I had my Clutch replaced and the garage who did it told me that both of my head gaskets are leaking again (near the back of the engine). I have 81,000 miles on the car so I called the dealer to schedule an appointment to have the head gaskets replaced again under warranty. So far so good.

    What bothered me was that the service manager at the dealership told me that there is a problem with the head gaskets Subaru is using and that they will continue to fail when the temperature drops. The dealer said that they need to change the way they make the gasket and Subaru hasn’t done this. (We frequently get below zero temperatures where I live). I am concerned because not only is it a pain in the neck to leave the car at the dealers for two or three days, my car is also close to out of the extended warrantee.

    Has anyone heard of a solution to this problem that is longer term? I had planned on keeping this car until well over 100k miles.

    Thanks for any help. I apologize if this has already been mentioned. I did a search of the forum, however didn’t come up with any matches.
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    Have you calculated the MPG? Basing MPG on the gas guage is not very accurate.

    FWIW - I get about 23 to 24 MPG with my '03 OBW A/T. I've gotten as high as 30 on a trip.

    DaveM
  • gearhead4gearhead4 Member Posts: 122
    Every disk brake car I have ever owned does some grinding after the sitting in the garage with wet rotors. My 05 2.5i is certainly no worse that any of my previous cars. Rotors are made of unpainted iron. When iron is exposed to oxygen it forms iron oxide (rust). Water accelerates the process. Salt water accelerates it faster.
    I have noticed that wheels with an open spoke pattern exhibit the problem more often.
    What I have done to reduce the problem is drive the car around the block a few times after washing. If you ride the brakes for the last 100 yards, it will heat up the rotors enough to dry any moisture on the rotors.
    BTW, I share your hopes that 05 2.5i has improved head gaskets. I have noticed that the coolant is a different color from what was installed on my 03 Legacy. I assume the new formula is meant to protect the head gaskets.
    -Jim
  • renee1renee1 Member Posts: 1
    My first time on the site. I'm on my 3rd outback. Have had ABS/VDC chronic light problems. Just brought the car in today (I have 52K miles). Was told ABS sensor in right rear tire caused it this time. It took many visits the first go round; now they id it quickly. It's still annoying. I also had the car die at 40MPH yesterday and I'm told it's an ignition sensor. It's not been a great experience all totalled. I haven't lost the faith yet. My dealer has been terrific. Am curious as to how chronic the light problem is for other 2002 Outback owners. Thanks.
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Member Posts: 112
    My 2000 OBW was one of the very first to have the additive fix last year. It was at the dealer to have the gasket replaced when SOA announced the additive fix and extended warranty. That was at 44K. Now at 61K, it's winter and I'm smelling coolant again.
    I have been needing to get the 60K service things done, so I guess I have to get me back to the dealer. Will it be another bottle of additive or do they have some other way to deal with the Return of the Head Gasket Leak? (Like, for example, oh, I don't know, maybe replacing the gasket with one that works?)
    --K9Leader
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Tom,

    We have had several cars with power seats, and not 'lost' a motor yet. They are pretty geared down and can take a lot of abuse.
    Now on our Ford, we lost two switch sets. No reason why, and the dealer said it was a first. When they failed, the seat drove up to the max position and stayed running until the motor smoked. I pulled the wiring harness connector, and when the motor cooled, it ran just fine!

    Steve
  • harrys1harrys1 Member Posts: 12
    Don't judge by one tank. You might not have filled it all the way. Some pumps shut off early. My '01 2.5 liter manual averages a little over 20 mpg in the winter in short trips, maybe 24 mpg in the warmer weather.
  • harrys1harrys1 Member Posts: 12
    With 58,000 mi. on my '01 OB I went in complaining of chatter and early clutch wear. It bothered me the whole time, but decided to complain just before the power train warranty was up. Dealer quickly admitted hearing chatter and offered to replace clutch for parts only--about $185. I jumped at it! The new clutch engages more progressively, with a lighter feel, and no chatter. It modulates better too. Sometimes I would stall the other one, but this one engages softer, but grippier and is more forgiving.

    I appreciate both Subaru and the dealer stepping up to the plate and doing what was right.
  • harrys1harrys1 Member Posts: 12
    My engine is one of those that suffers from noise when cold which goes away when warm. This is considered "normal", but I figured I should get a document from the dealer saying such in the event I ever sell the car and the prospective buyer is turned off by the noise. They gave me a copy of February 2001 "Subaru tech t.i.p.s" which discusses the noise, what changes in pistons, valve train, compression, induction system, etc. cause the noise, and what benefits accrue from these changes. This can prove invaluable when the car is sold.
  • wildcorgiswildcorgis Member Posts: 84
    This is my wife's car and I'll start by saying how much she loves it. I think it is a very good choice for anyone wanting an multi-purpose vehicle. It's reasonably fast, comfy,smooth riding, with 2 tone leather and wood steering wheel looks semi-luxurious,okay mileage(20 mostly city) pretty good off road, secure in the rain, and can tote a decent amount of stuff. For our family of 3 plus 2 dogs, it's perfect.
    Unfortunately,things have cropped up that I 'm not sure if they are important or not.
    1. We also get a funny noise at start-up when cold(San Diego cold is 50 degrees).It sounds like a gritching belt and goes away after 5 min.
    2. Wife was complaining about noise when turning steering wheel at low speeds.
    3. Local oil and lube store recommended a differential oil change. Car is 02 with 30K miles.

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Steve,

    Items 1 and 2 may be related. A loose, worn or glazed belt might slip when cold, as well as when put under load when power steering calls on the pump to work harder.

    Diffy oil changes are suggested (depending on model and use conditions) at 30k. It is a fairly easy /inexpensive thing to do and will pay dividends in trouble free motoring.

    Steve
  • ssteveksstevek Member Posts: 45
    You should be getting better, with my '98 Outback manual I usually get at least 300 miles per tank, and the 98's tank is only 15.9 gallons. Your model's is a bit larger. With 70% or so highway I average around 23-25mpg, more toward the lower end this time of year. It sounds like you're averaging around 20 - 21. Hopefully someone can help with tipe to improve the mileage.
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    My old 96 Outback (2.5 auto) was consistant at 24 mpg.

    The new 03 Outback (2.5 auto) ranges between 22-24. Last weekend, I went on a ski trip and got 20 mpg. I will probably attribute this to the car being loaded, skis on the roof, single/teens temperature, and driving home in 10 inches of snow. Rob M.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Glad to hear the dealer took care of you.

    When I start my Forester, I make sure to prime the fuel pump first. Just turn the key to the On position and wait just a second or two, you'll hear a "whirrrrr" and then start her up.

    Could be a lack of fuel pressure, or water in the fuel lines, creating that stumbling at start up.

    -juice
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    My 98 Outback with an auto has gotten 17 MPG a few times when it has been really cold, say below zero for a whole tankfull. I have gotten has high as 23 MPG once or twice. I am consistently at 20-21 MPG with typical metropolitan suburban commuting. I don't think my experience it terribly atypical.
  • wildcorgiswildcorgis Member Posts: 84
    Thanks Steve, we took your advice and had the diff oil changed. For some reason they (Shell station) only did the rear and not the front? They also replaced the steering fluid. They told her the color was black. Seems to have taken care of the noise.
    One other thing, I'm pretty sure this is common, when backing up the wheels make noise but not while going forward. Not too worried about this!

    In regards to mileage,our 02 Bean sometimes will get 17mpg when we do alot of in town driving, lots of trips under 1 mile. Most of the time it's right around 20.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Around here it's so cold, I'm getting about 2-3 mpg less than usual. That may be affecting your mileage also.

    -juice
  • 63corvette63corvette Member Posts: 51
    Does anybody know if there is a better clutch for an 04 2.5 Outback wagon? Does the WRX or STI clutch fit? is it more expensive, and does it work better?

    Thanks....early clutch wear.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    If your noise comes back, I would recommend a new belt. The one on my 02 Bean was making noise in cold/damp weather and I replaced it at 30K miles (it's an inspection item on the 30K service anyhow). That took care of the problem.

    Craig
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Steve,

    You should have them do the front as well. The drain plug is a little hard to find, tucked up slightly on the forward section of the tranny. Fill is thru the dipstick along the firewall on the passenger's side of the air filter.

    Steve
  • blackbeanblackbean Member Posts: 100
    I get 2-3 MPG less in the winter due to winter gas formula, roof & ski rack, and winter tires.
    I average 22-24 in the winter and 24-26 in the other three seasons. This is a mix of highway and back roads driving - very little time in the city! :-)
    Matt
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    I bought a used '02 Legacy L wagon a month or two ago. Generally very good condition, good price, all is mostly well, but...
    The previous owner ran over a curb or parking lot barrier or something and scarred the underside of the front bumper. Also knocked off one of the two plastic panels below/behind the radiator that keep dirt from the tires off the engine,and mildly bent some RF fender liner parts. No big deal: replaced the missing panel, straightened the bent stuff. BUT there are two openings in the lower outer sections of the bumper, to either side of the grill opening. Fog lights would go there if they were installed, but they weren't. Now they are just big holes (about 5 by 7 inches). Is there supposed to be some panel or cover there? There are slots around the edges where tabs might go. Did Subaru actually ship the cars with the hole there, or is it likely the previous owner lost one of the panels in his curb "prang" and took out the other to match? He seems to have been cheap enough to do that... the ONLY maintenance he did in 57,000 miles was oil and filter changes: spark plugs, air filter and fuel filter were all original.

    Stanton
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yes, there is a black plastic cover that goes where the fogs would otherwise go.

    We lost one, that's how I know. I'll probably use some Subaru bucks to replace it.

    If you get a price, lemme know, OK?

    Are you gonna get fogs, or replace both covers?

    -juice
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    I'll probably just replace the covers if they're not too pricey. Fogs were several hundred dollars as I recall, and I find the standard lighting to be pretty adequate. I'll let you know what I find.

    BTW, I tried to dim the dash lights WAY down to improve my night vision, and the dimmest setting is just enough to show the general position of the red needles, while improved night vision lets you see a lot farther down the road if there is no oncoming traffic. AT first I thought the dash lights went off, but not so: they keep a faint glow to show up the gauge needles. Cool!
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Hey Juice, I found the bumper hole covers at subarupartstore for $14.66 each. Fog lights were $98. Seems an easy choice to me; I think the stock lighting is fine.
    Stanton
  • tmontytmonty Member Posts: 16
    Thanks Steve. Like I said earlier, I plan to keep this vehicle for ~10 years and it'll be our camping/skiing/outdoor workhorse and will probably take a good workout. My current workhorse is a 5 speed Camry with Thule box attached. Not the most versatile of vehicles for the application but... oh, so reliable. Last summer, I pulled to Newfoundland a small tent-trailer, Thule box, wife, 11 year old and all the gear that goes with it. Who says you need a Ford Expedition for something like this ;)

    Tom
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