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Comments
Craig
Cleaning the fuel injector system along with an ECU flash is probably a good idea. If you drove the car on several distance trips during the first two weeks, the car may have "adapted" to your driving habits incorrectly, and now it is programmed for distance instead that incredibly short 3-mile trip.
If the car has run poorly for that long, you may consider taking a peek at the spark plugs too, but it is a bi.... er, uh, troublesome... task as there is not much clearance with which to work.
Jim
If you have a mechanic that you trust, you can have it looked at/diagnosed to see if there is something that might be dragging it down somewhat. You should run screaming from that dealership that did the test that got 31+ MPG. That test was so brief as to be worthless - they were just saying anything they could come up with to get you to go away. Average MPG has to be measured over a longer time -- several tanks worth.
Another thing to remember, these are fairly heavy cars -- 3600 lbs. One of my other cars is a V8 powered 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII that comes in at under 3900 lbs. and is considered big and heavy, so a 3600 lb. Outback is no lightweight -- lots of glass, extra stiffening, extra plating, AWD equipment (although I understand that is only about 150 lbs., surprisingly light for what it does, but still an extra 150 lbs.).
You shouldn't really compare the OB only to an Accord, Saturn, etc. Also compare it to a Trailblazer, Explorer, etc. It should and does fall somewhere in between these two classes of vehicles. More efficient and economical than an SUV and more versatile and rugged and capable in snow or on dirt than a plain vanilla passenger car.
Now what about a hybrid Outback? I have to say that when Toyota comes out with a hybrid car-based SUV, or Honda puts out the hybrid Accord in a wagon with AWD, I will take a serious gander.
On the trip computer, only my Lincoln has an onboard MPG calculator, and it always comes out 1 - 2 mpg over the full-tank to full-tank calculation. The manufacturers fudge them as much as they can to help buyers rationalize their purchase.
--K9Leader
The 2002 (50K miles also) from the beginning had some valve noise, but nothing unsettling. From the beginning, and getting worse every winter, is the loud, obviously piston, clunking. It is now loud enough that people and animals turn their heads when I go by in the car. It is present at all temperatures up to about 80 degrees - lasts about 15 minutes and returns after exiting high speed highways for another 5 minutes or so.
Remarkably, the car runs great (about 27 MPG, 80 mi/day highway commuting).
I've told 2 dealers, who both told me "they all do that" which is obviously a lie since my 2000 doesn't. To drive to a dealer is a 40 mile hike, so it is rarely loud when I get there.
At this volume, is it still non-destructive and nothing to worry about? If not, how do I get a dealer to actually do something?
BTW, my report to SOA on this resulted in a "you need to work with your dealer." - which has the same value as "don't bother me sonny...."
Don't get me wrong, I love the cars and will buy more, but waking all the farm animals in my very rural neighborhoods is not making me any friends.
Other boards may have folks that seek them out for answers or even just an ear to hear their venting. When they are done, they just leave.
-juice
I first thought that it was the alternetor and showed the car to a mechanic (not a Subaru dealer) and he sent the alternator to get fixed. The alternator came back, but I was told that it was in perfect order and that the sound was normal.
Well, I don't think this sound is normal at all. I don't like it and I think it should be fixed. What should I do?
Thanks a lot in advance.
M1ax
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My 02 wagon made this noise. It bothered me at first, but after a while I really didn't notice it too much.
Craig
After a while I even learned to appreciate the noise while accellerating.
It is a fantastic car for cruising, increadibelly stable even under overcharged conditions(very heavy loads) and very effective on ice and much fun on snow for towing your two wheel drive neighbours. Its a bit more noisy than average but if used at his torque not thirsty at all even if they say so.
Have fun.
Craig
I've seen posts affecting the 2.5L from ~1999 through 2003. Nothing on 2004 or 2005 models, but from what I can gather nothing much has changed in the engine over these years.
I deeply want to avoid any sort of hassle factor of a 10 issue arguing with the dealer over this sort of stuff. Esp. considering it is such a major part - not something like a strut or a rattle.
So please educate me.
My salesperson claimed the whole issue was originally a bad batch of gaskets that they worked through. I took that as total BS given I've read people having to replace the gasket at 60K and then again only 20K later. Why wouldn't the replacement gasket be the "better" one if true?
BTW, I don't hear it only at highway speed; I'd say that it's there at speeds as low as 20 MPH, but it gets more audible at higher speeds.
Engine temp seems to have stabilized (though gauge is is slightly lower than before) and have not, to date, had hesitation recurrence - am beginning to wonder whether I just got some "bad" gas.
New problem is intermittent clicking noise from steering wheel on turns (probably just got put back together incorrectly after all the
monitoring?) Guess will try to get car to dealer when clicking noise next occurs....
jim, the heater always worked perfectly (frequently too warm for me so the auto-climate control overworks the ac)
Thanks
Please don't cross-post.
Ken
I believe you can access the disc by removing the top cover of the HU.
I've not done it myself... well, I was going to when I forgot to remove the CDs after I did the aftermarket swap today, but 3 of the 8 screws on the mounting bracket just wouldn't budge
-Dave
David
I also have a 2000 OBW. I bought it at 32K miles in March 2003. In January 2004 at 42K I had the head gasket leak and had it at the dealer when SOA announced the coolant additive/warranty extension fix. The dealer seemed to have been giving me the runaround for a couple of days (stalling due to the breaking news of the fix) so I got SOA customer service (via Patti) involved. The gunk was added, the warranty extended to 8/100K, and the SOA CSR offered to pay for my 60K service when it came due (they volunteered it -- I hadn't even raised the issue).
It hit 60k recently and I was smelling coolant again (usually on the colder days). Took it to the dealer (different one than a year ago as that one is no longer a Subaru store) for the 60K service and, yes, it was leaking again so they replaced the gasket under the warranty. I have sent the paperwork in to SOA for reimbursement and am looking forward to them being good to their word.
In all, both dealers and SOA (so far) have been up front and responsive. These kind of mechanical/technical things happen. The real test is how they deal with it. Assuming I do get the reimbursement for the 60K service, they done right by me.
Were the gaskets replaced at 20K, 46k, and the coolant additive done at 63K? If you had the coolant additive done, then you should be covered under the extended warranty, even though you were beyond the original 60K warranty as it was an ongoing condition. You need to call SOA customer service and get them involved. Give them a chance to make it right before you resort to unchaining the lawyers.
I know it is frustrating, but in the grand scheme of automotive problems, this is on the lower end of the spectrum. You ought to talk to my buddy who has finally given up on his Chrysler minivan now that it needs its fourth(!) transmission.
Good luck!
--K9Leader
P.S. Tried to respond by email, but no go -- you have your email address blocked in your profile.
You could also just remove the radio and leave it with the dealer. That way, you still have the car to drive around (minus radio)
I got my CDs out... had to uninstall the new HU and plug the 6 CD back on to eject the disc :P
-Dave
Which dealer are you going to? Sometimes that can make all the difference. I go to Flemington subaru, where I have alsways been treated fairly.
Good luck and let us know what happens.
Mark
"That it is the computer doing its job along with
the emissions system doing its job to achieve the low emissions standard."
I hope the know what they are talking about.
I have a stock Panasonic tape deck in my '96 OBW, but it also has a second DIN that replaced the junk tray in the dash with a single disc CD player. The problem is that the CD player will not eject the disc when the unit is warm, such as after it has played a CD. It also does not like to accept a disc when it is warm, but you can usually poke it in fast enough that it takes it. I think it uses a friction drive / roller to actually move the disc in and out and something is slipping on the friction end so it is unable to overcome the resistance as it ejects. Anyone else had this problem? Is there any way to cheaply repair it? Currently, I use a set of tweezers to "eject" the discs, but they are not real disc-friendly.....
i've been in and out of the subaru dealer and my guy for the last four weeks. i did a full carbon flush of the engine and fuel system and i must say it runs better. the check engine light is back on though and they are saying now that the coil needs to be done as that is what the mis-fire code indicates should be done. if it's not that it may be the valve guides, being off and the valves not properly closing.....anyone have any experience? i also had a head gasket job done recently in which they did the valves.
thanks so much.
stranded in Halifax with no $$$
Is there any way to mount headrests in the original seats? I was also looking at seats from a newer Suby (00-05). Does anyone know if they would fit? I'm trying to keep the original color. It's a nice light grey, unlike 97-99 (equipped w/2nd row hdrst) which seem to to be primarily Charcoal.
Colby aka Picky Pete
Good luck,
-wdb
I'm in upstate NY so the temp is around 40f. It stalls even after the engine is warmed up.
I was messing with the throttle earlier today. It didn't seem like it was enough to get anything out of wack. I thought maybe I had changed the idle setting though.
Any ideas?
Colby
I am quite positive that the rear seat is the same in the 97-99 but, as I said before the leather is mostly the charcoal color and the velour that I have seen has been that kleenex box pattern.
Colby
To the members-
I just want to ask everyone again for ideas as to what may be up with the stalling. To be honest, I figured someone would shoot back a reply right away. Do we not have a whole lot of Subaru people on this forum?
I don't know if we are using these forums to their potential. I only say that because I see other questions without replies. Well, you can bet I'll come back with an answer to this problem after we see the Doc.
Colby
At a minimum, easiest way to get the headliner off? Best way to troubleshoot for a leak from that area?
Thanks!
The manual states that I would have to get an optional accessory power socket installed in order to, for example, charge my cell phone.
My question is...do I REALLY need to get the accessory power socket installed, or can I just plug my phone into the cigarette lighter slot instead?
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
Do you Have a roof rack? Those are just more holes in the body, and of course more chances for leaks.
I don't really know how to get the headliner off though. I think if you take the plastic pillar covers off, you will find some way to remove it.
Colby
But, it could also be due to spark, fuel, or air supplies; independent of the sensors. Same with the hesitation problems for the '99 L mentioned in another post. For that individual, an ECU flash might help the car to remediate the problem?
I had a vaccuum line that got disconnected...SOMEHOW. Yeah, that couldn't have been because of me. OOops. The airflow was off hence the roughness and stalling under 3000 rpm.
If you don't know what/where a vaccuum line is I will describe it. The idea (correct me if I'm wrong)is that the engine creates a vaccuum inside which sucks in unburnt fuel. Without the suction you don't really get a flow of fuel.
The vaccuum line comes in from the air intake, the big 3" diameter black hose usually on the left side of the engine compartment (95-99 at least). The vaccuum line itself is a 1 inch diameter rubber hose that connects to the underside of the air intake hose. If the vaccuum line becomes separated from the intake you lose the suction as I did.
Feel free to ask if you have Q's. I hope I have A's
Colby
Don't forget that the 2000-2004 OB wagon has an accessory socket in the back left cubby. All you need is a 12V extension lead.
My 2005 2.5i Outback is all over the road at highway speed. Is it the Potenzas?
Also , my cruise control causes pulsing on downhills.
How can I fix these issues? The handling one is about to drive me bananas!
TIA,
www3