Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

c_hunter · March 2005

About the only thing I want to point out is that most of us frequent multiple Subaru enthusiast sites in addition to this one. I look at 3-4 of them on a regular basis. Very few of us are Edmunds-only, so I don't take the different tone here to be an issue. Actually, all the sites have a different flavor. For one thing, because of the strict rules and the format on Edmunds, we're less likely to get into mods, projects, and hacks here. That alone gives this forum a lot less depth.

Craig

njswamplands · March 2005

heck even the name benign

xwesx · March 2005

I had ONE 350-mile run that gave me 31.2 mpg five years ago with my 2.5L '96. But, the speeds were an almost perfect 55-60 mph and I may have stopped the car 4 times total and did 0 passing. Also, the terrain was quite mountainous and the general tendency was an overall decrease in elevation. Since then, the best was 28 and the normal highway (those 100% trips at ~65) mpg is about 25.5.

Cleaning the fuel injector system along with an ECU flash is probably a good idea. If you drove the car on several distance trips during the first two weeks, the car may have "adapted" to your driving habits incorrectly, and now it is programmed for distance instead that incredibly short 3-mile trip.

If the car has run poorly for that long, you may consider taking a peek at the spark plugs too, but it is a bi.... er, uh, troublesome... task as there is not much clearance with which to work.

jfl · March 2005

In my experience, the first tank after an ECU reset had lower than typical mpg. But came back to normal afterwards.

Jim

occking · March 2005

I wonder. In the almost 7500miles I have travelled in outback 2.5i ltd, average fuel consumption (actual) was 24.8 yet via trip computer a little over 26. This is consistent with other cars I have had with trip computers--they always show computer mog higher than actual. However, I reset the trip computer with every fillup. I wonder if I only reset if for one of the trip odometers & checked mileage over three or four tankfulls if that would give a more accurate reading. Think I will try that. Have others on this board had similar experiences?

K9Leader · March 2005

I have a 2000 OBW and those MPGs sound about right. The best I get on long trips is 26 - 27. Around town, it's more in the 18 - 20 range. Your short 3-mile commute would bring that down, so 16 is not unthinkable. Now, if you wanted to improve that, you could move further away from work. Your average MPG would be better but you'd be burning more G.

If you have a mechanic that you trust, you can have it looked at/diagnosed to see if there is something that might be dragging it down somewhat. You should run screaming from that dealership that did the test that got 31+ MPG. That test was so brief as to be worthless - they were just saying anything they could come up with to get you to go away. Average MPG has to be measured over a longer time -- several tanks worth.

Another thing to remember, these are fairly heavy cars -- 3600 lbs. One of my other cars is a V8 powered 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII that comes in at under 3900 lbs. and is considered big and heavy, so a 3600 lb. Outback is no lightweight -- lots of glass, extra stiffening, extra plating, AWD equipment (although I understand that is only about 150 lbs., surprisingly light for what it does, but still an extra 150 lbs.).

You shouldn't really compare the OB only to an Accord, Saturn, etc. Also compare it to a Trailblazer, Explorer, etc. It should and does fall somewhere in between these two classes of vehicles. More efficient and economical than an SUV and more versatile and rugged and capable in snow or on dirt than a plain vanilla passenger car.

Now what about a hybrid Outback? I have to say that when Toyota comes out with a hybrid car-based SUV, or Honda puts out the hybrid Accord in a wagon with AWD, I will take a serious gander.

On the trip computer, only my Lincoln has an onboard MPG calculator, and it always comes out 1 - 2 mpg over the full-tank to full-tank calculation. The manufacturers fudge them as much as they can to help buyers rationalize their purchase.

--K9Leader

ppers · March 2005

We have a very similar problem with our 2005 Outback w/manual transmission. At first the dealer service said there was no error code. On the third visit, they said there was a problem with the cruise control switch on some manuals. A few weeks ago, we finally had the cruise control switch replaced. Today the problem re-appeared after driving a few hundred miles.

lanschuetz · March 2005

Let me start by stating that I have both a 2000 and a 2002 Outback wagon. The 2000 at 50K miles has never made any engine noises.

The 2002 (50K miles also) from the beginning had some valve noise, but nothing unsettling. From the beginning, and getting worse every winter, is the loud, obviously piston, clunking. It is now loud enough that people and animals turn their heads when I go by in the car. It is present at all temperatures up to about 80 degrees - lasts about 15 minutes and returns after exiting high speed highways for another 5 minutes or so.

Remarkably, the car runs great (about 27 MPG, 80 mi/day highway commuting).

I've told 2 dealers, who both told me "they all do that" which is obviously a lie since my 2000 doesn't. To drive to a dealer is a 40 mile hike, so it is rarely loud when I get there.

At this volume, is it still non-destructive and nothing to worry about? If not, how do I get a dealer to actually do something?

BTW, my report to SOA on this resulted in a "you need to work with your dealer." - which has the same value as "don't bother me sonny...."

Don't get me wrong, I love the cars and will buy more, but waking all the farm animals in my very rural neighborhoods is not making me any friends.

ateixeira · March 2005

Edmunds has a lot of regulars that stick around. That's the thing - participation, long-term. Many of us have been here 7+ years, like me.

Other boards may have folks that seek them out for answers or even just an ear to hear their venting. When they are done, they just leave.

-juice

m1ax · March 2005

I have a problem that seems common on Subarus. When I drive my car I hear a sound from the motor. This sound is like a high pitch whine. I hear it as soon as I hit the gas on the road, but it's almost impossible to hear when the car is on idle, while driving or not.

I first thought that it was the alternetor and showed the car to a mechanic (not a Subaru dealer) and he sent the alternator to get fixed. The alternator came back, but I was told that it was in perfect order and that the sound was normal.

Well, I don't think this sound is normal at all. I don't like it and I think it should be fixed. What should I do?

Thanks a lot in advance.

M1ax

PF_Flyer · March 2005

We're getting a fair amount of crossover between the chat groups, so why not invite all the Subies to the Tuesday Mazda chat??

PF Flyer
Host
Pickups & News & Views Message Boards

The MAZDA MANIA Chat is on tonight. Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule

c_hunter · March 2005

If it's a high ptched whine (like a TV whine) you only hear when you apply throttle at highway speeds, then I've been told it's the pinion gears in the transmission/diff and it's normal.

My 02 wagon made this noise. It bothered me at first, but after a while I really didn't notice it too much.

Craig

sbbelgium · March 2005

do you have another car? I put my wife's car keys together with mine andhad the same problem, leave the keys apart and the problem will be solved

sbbelgium · March 2005

The noise comes from the clutch and has no influence on its effectiveness, mine has just worn out on the 2.5from 2000 after 210.000 kms.
After a while I even learned to appreciate the noise while accellerating.

sbbelgium · March 2005

just repair the cap over the axle, nothings wrong with the axle itself, you can check easily if the cap is still intact. Just fix it on the next maintenance, the cost is minor on parts and costed me about 80 $, myproblem appeared after about 135000miles

sbbelgium · March 2005

Outback owner, model LEGACY 2.5, mileage 217.000kms recommends the model after a very active and sporty use with only a clutch issue solved by Subaru under warranty even with 197.000kms on the car as I had formulated a request during the warranty period.
It is a fantastic car for cruising, increadibelly stable even under overcharged conditions(very heavy loads) and very effective on ice and much fun on snow for towing your two wheel drive neighbours. Its a bit more noisy than average but if used at his torque not thirsty at all even if they say so.
Have fun.

c_hunter · March 2005

The H6 was auto transmission only -- no clutch (well, not a traditional one anyway).

Craig

codecruncher · March 2005

I was very close a week ago to buying an Outback wagon with the 2.5L. Loved everything about it. Researched the web a bit and got scared to death by the seemingly infinite web sites and postings regarding the "2.5L headgasket leaks from hell" issue.

I've seen posts affecting the 2.5L from ~1999 through 2003. Nothing on 2004 or 2005 models, but from what I can gather nothing much has changed in the engine over these years.

I deeply want to avoid any sort of hassle factor of a 10 issue arguing with the dealer over this sort of stuff. Esp. considering it is such a major part - not something like a strut or a rattle.

So please educate me.

My salesperson claimed the whole issue was originally a bad batch of gaskets that they worked through. I took that as total BS given I've read people having to replace the gasket at 60K and then again only 20K later. Why wouldn't the replacement gasket be the "better" one if true?

m1ax · March 2005

Thanks for the answer C_hunter. I will have the car checked by a dealer next week; I'll let you know what is his diagnosis.

BTW, I don't hear it only at highway speed; I'd say that it's there at speeds as low as 20 MPH, but it gets more audible at higher speeds.

sos03 · March 2005

To slickdog and to later response from Jim W.,

Engine temp seems to have stabilized (though gauge is is slightly lower than before) and have not, to date, had hesitation recurrence - am beginning to wonder whether I just got some "bad" gas.

New problem is intermittent clicking noise from steering wheel on turns (probably just got put back together incorrectly after all the
monitoring?) Guess will try to get car to dealer when clicking noise next occurs....

jim, the heater always worked perfectly (frequently too warm for me so the auto-climate control overworks the ac)

Thanks

kens · March 2005

Replied to you in the other topic.

Please don't cross-post.

Ken

bmurphy · March 2005

I have a 2000 Subaru Outback that developed coolant leaks at Headgaskets leaked at 20,000, 46,000 and the last one at 63,000 miles. I had the tsb done with the additive but it's done no good. I'm talking to a lawyer to see if there's anything I can do. Are there enough of us that we can get a class action started or something? Has anyone else in NJ had this problem? I'm desperate and just want Subaru to fix this mess. Please email me if you've had any luck if getting this fixed or or any luck with the lemon law or want to join a class action. Something has to be done. Help!

zellaidella · March 2005

I have a 2003 Outback Limited with a six cd changer (Part #H6240LS101) and one of the disks apparently got stuck. I was wondering if there was a manual release to eject the cd or whether I need to take it back to the dealer. I bought the car used with 30,000 miles and got the $100 deductible extended warranty but to avoid the hassle of leaving the car with the dealer I was wondering if there was another way out.

hypov · March 2005

If the disc is stuck and wouldn't eject, you'll have to take it apart.
I believe you can access the disc by removing the top cover of the HU.
I've not done it myself... well, I was going to when I forgot to remove the CDs after I did the aftermarket swap today, but 3 of the 8 screws on the mounting bracket just wouldn't budge

-Dave

zellaidella · March 2005

Wow! Thanks for the quick reply...I think I'll take it back to the dealer and spend the $100 bucks...sorry about your cd's...I hope they can salvage mine when they remove the unit...Thanks for you help!
David

K9Leader · March 2005

BMurphy:

I also have a 2000 OBW. I bought it at 32K miles in March 2003. In January 2004 at 42K I had the head gasket leak and had it at the dealer when SOA announced the coolant additive/warranty extension fix. The dealer seemed to have been giving me the runaround for a couple of days (stalling due to the breaking news of the fix) so I got SOA customer service (via Patti) involved. The gunk was added, the warranty extended to 8/100K, and the SOA CSR offered to pay for my 60K service when it came due (they volunteered it -- I hadn't even raised the issue).

It hit 60k recently and I was smelling coolant again (usually on the colder days). Took it to the dealer (different one than a year ago as that one is no longer a Subaru store) for the 60K service and, yes, it was leaking again so they replaced the gasket under the warranty. I have sent the paperwork in to SOA for reimbursement and am looking forward to them being good to their word.

In all, both dealers and SOA (so far) have been up front and responsive. These kind of mechanical/technical things happen. The real test is how they deal with it. Assuming I do get the reimbursement for the 60K service, they done right by me.

Were the gaskets replaced at 20K, 46k, and the coolant additive done at 63K? If you had the coolant additive done, then you should be covered under the extended warranty, even though you were beyond the original 60K warranty as it was an ongoing condition. You need to call SOA customer service and get them involved. Give them a chance to make it right before you resort to unchaining the lawyers.

I know it is frustrating, but in the grand scheme of automotive problems, this is on the lower end of the spectrum. You ought to talk to my buddy who has finally given up on his Chrysler minivan now that it needs its fourth(!) transmission.

Good luck!

--K9Leader

P.S. Tried to respond by email, but no go -- you have your email address blocked in your profile.

hypov · March 2005

zellaidella, "Legacy/Outback Wagons Problems & Solutions (Wagons)" #4463, 23 Mar 2005 3:58 pm

You could also just remove the radio and leave it with the dealer. That way, you still have the car to drive around (minus radio)

I got my CDs out... had to uninstall the new HU and plug the 6 CD back on to eject the disc :P

-Dave

omer · March 2005

I just bought a new 2005 Legacy base model. When i first start the car in the morning it is very noisy for the first 30 secs. Is this a normal noise??

bat1161 · March 2005

I also have a 2000 OBW and had the headgaskets replaced under warranty back around 36000 miles. The dealer added the additive las tyear, and so far no problems.

Which dealer are you going to? Sometimes that can make all the difference. I go to Flemington subaru, where I have alsways been treated fairly.
Good luck and let us know what happens.

Mark

smiller · March 2005

My 2005 OBW 2.5i is noisy too right after cold start. My dealer said it is normal -
"That it is the computer doing its job along with
the emissions system doing its job to achieve the low emissions standard."
I hope the know what they are talking about.

xwesx · March 2005

Since we're on the topic of radios... anyone have an easy fix for this problem?

I have a stock Panasonic tape deck in my '96 OBW, but it also has a second DIN that replaced the junk tray in the dash with a single disc CD player. The problem is that the CD player will not eject the disc when the unit is warm, such as after it has played a CD. It also does not like to accept a disc when it is warm, but you can usually poke it in fast enough that it takes it. I think it uses a friction drive / roller to actually move the disc in and out and something is slipping on the friction end so it is unable to overcome the resistance as it ejects. Anyone else had this problem? Is there any way to cheaply repair it? Currently, I use a set of tweezers to "eject" the discs, but they are not real disc-friendly.....

vowles · March 2005

hi ya'll

i've been in and out of the subaru dealer and my guy for the last four weeks. i did a full carbon flush of the engine and fuel system and i must say it runs better. the check engine light is back on though and they are saying now that the coil needs to be done as that is what the mis-fire code indicates should be done. if it's not that it may be the valve guides, being off and the valves not properly closing.....anyone have any experience? i also had a head gasket job done recently in which they did the valves.

thanks so much.

stranded in Halifax with no $$$

95legacy · March 2005

I have a 95 Legacy L. There are no head-rests for the second row passengers. It is very often that I have people in the second row. Call me Safety Susy but, I don't want anyone getting seriously hurt. I also want it to be relatively comfortable back there.

Is there any way to mount headrests in the original seats? I was also looking at seats from a newer Suby (00-05). Does anyone know if they would fit? I'm trying to keep the original color. It's a nice light grey, unlike 97-99 (equipped w/2nd row hdrst) which seem to to be primarily Charcoal.

Colby aka Picky Pete

francophile · March 2005

From a bit of googling it appears as though 1995 was the first model year of the 1995-1999 body style. It is quite possible that a back seat from any of those years will fit your car. The next fun bit will be finding the color you want!

Good luck,
-wdb

95legacy · March 2005

My 95 Legacy L (also a 5-speed) has been stalling. This just started happening today. It starts fine but, will quickly go out unless I constantly rev it. This also happens any time the rpms get down around 1000. Driving is jerky around 2-2500

I'm in upstate NY so the temp is around 40f. It stalls even after the engine is warmed up.

I was messing with the throttle earlier today. It didn't seem like it was enough to get anything out of wack. I thought maybe I had changed the idle setting though.

Any ideas?

Colby

95legacy · March 2005

You're right, it was the first year. Actually it seems like a forgotten year sometimes. Hard to find aftermarket parts.

I am quite positive that the rear seat is the same in the 97-99 but, as I said before the leather is mostly the charcoal color and the velour that I have seen has been that kleenex box pattern.

Colby

sstevek · March 2005

50k sounds way too early for a clutch to fail. My '98 Outback started slipping around 95k, I've got '96 now. It doesn't happen all the time, which I find unusual. I haven't done anything about it so far because except for a few occasions when trying to accelerate quickly onto the highway it doesn't slip. I've heard from others on this site that 95k is not an unreasonable time for a clutch to start to fail, I've never had clutch shudder unless I erroneously engage it.

xwesx · March 2005

I am sure your 95's seats are much like my '96. Other than the seat pattern change, there are not inserts for headrests on the 95 or 96. You could probably get a whole seat back off a '97-99, but then you run into the upholstery problem. Probably not worth pursuing until you solve the stalling problem! ;-D

slickdog · March 2005

I'm not sure this is the case for the Outback (maybe someone else here knows) because I haven't looked around inside mine closely enough to know for sure, but many vehicles have a temp sender for the gauge on the dash which is separate from the temp sensor which the ECM uses to make it's decisions. That's why I stated that a malfunctioning temperature sender (which is what I call the component that drives the dash temp gauge or idiot light) wouldn't necessarily be responsible for driveability issues.

95legacy · March 2005

xwesx - you're right. In fact it's off to the mechanic tomorrow.

To the members-

I just want to ask everyone again for ideas as to what may be up with the stalling. To be honest, I figured someone would shoot back a reply right away. Do we not have a whole lot of Subaru people on this forum?

I don't know if we are using these forums to their potential. I only say that because I see other questions without replies. Well, you can bet I'll come back with an answer to this problem after we see the Doc.

Colby

phil9 · March 2005

I'm original owner of '99 outback and have had hesitation problems since new. Hesitation occurs during accleration until speed is reached but not always.Dealer has replaced plugs,wires.ECM module twice,AF sensor,Oxygen sensor,adjust throttle body.Have 68,000 miles now and same hesitation all along.Codes never show any problems.Been a good auto except for this. Dealer is baffled.Been to four dealers over the years.

james16 · March 2005

I have had a roof leak for some time now in my 2002 Outback Limited, seems to be coming in where the rear seatbelt goes into the headliner. Wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem and can give some advice on how to fix myself as I now have the car out of the country and is not covered by warranty.

At a minimum, easiest way to get the headliner off? Best way to troubleshoot for a leak from that area?

Thanks!

stymied · March 2005

I just got a 2000 Outback and according to the manual, the cigarette lighter isn't supposed to be used for anything but the actual cigarette lighter. No other "plug in type" accessories can be hooked up to it. "Doing so may cause a short circuit and overheating, resulting in fire"
The manual states that I would have to get an optional accessory power socket installed in order to, for example, charge my cell phone.
My question is...do I REALLY need to get the accessory power socket installed, or can I just plug my phone into the cigarette lighter slot instead?

amsbear · March 2005

My understanding is that once you use another "non-lighter" accessory in the lighter socket, you can't go back to using the lighter in there. The lighter socket may no longer be able to eject the lighter plug when it heats up and therefore you have a fire hazard.

Alan
98 OBW Ltd

95legacy · March 2005

You may have a leak around the weather stripping for the door.

Do you Have a roof rack? Those are just more holes in the body, and of course more chances for leaks.

I don't really know how to get the headliner off though. I think if you take the plastic pillar covers off, you will find some way to remove it.

Colby

xwesx · March 2005

Another individual had roof leak problems and the water emerged at the same location you describe. I think his vehicle was an '01 or '02 Forester and the problem was due to a faulty design / seal on the water rails for the sunroof. He posted a fair number of photos detailing the problem and the fix. Perhaps a search would help? I know that some of the folks here should be able to remember the thread, but I think it was "Subaru Crew - Problems / Solutions" maybe sometime between November and January.... ?

xwesx · March 2005

I did not respond re: stalling because nothing came to mind right away as a likely cause. The only problems I have had that have affected the liklihood of the vehicle stalling is a mass airflow sensor (MAS) issue, and then last summer when I had a bad knock sensor coupled with bad oxygen and timing sensors.

But, it could also be due to spark, fuel, or air supplies; independent of the sensors. Same with the hesitation problems for the '99 L mentioned in another post. For that individual, an ECU flash might help the car to remediate the problem?

95legacy · March 2005

Allright I'm a major dunce. I went down the street to our neighborhood mechanic and he quickly solved the problem.

I had a vaccuum line that got disconnected...SOMEHOW. Yeah, that couldn't have been because of me. OOops. The airflow was off hence the roughness and stalling under 3000 rpm.

If you don't know what/where a vaccuum line is I will describe it. The idea (correct me if I'm wrong)is that the engine creates a vaccuum inside which sucks in unburnt fuel. Without the suction you don't really get a flow of fuel.

The vaccuum line comes in from the air intake, the big 3" diameter black hose usually on the left side of the engine compartment (95-99 at least). The vaccuum line itself is a 1 inch diameter rubber hose that connects to the underside of the air intake hose. If the vaccuum line becomes separated from the intake you lose the suction as I did.

Feel free to ask if you have Q's. I hope I have A's

Colby

goosegog · March 2005

Stymied, there was a discussion about this a few years ago and my record of that is not immediately available. But I recall that based on info from Subaru it is OK to use such a device in the lighter socket and they changed the manual for later years to reflect this. I will try to find this info for you.

Don't forget that the 2000-2004 OB wagon has an accessory socket in the back left cubby. All you need is a 12V extension lead.

www3 · March 2005

hi Folks,

My 2005 2.5i Outback is all over the road at highway speed. Is it the Potenzas?

Also , my cruise control causes pulsing on downhills.

How can I fix these issues? The handling one is about to drive me bananas!

TIA,

www3

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles