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I haven't had any problem with OEM tires. Got close to 8000 miles now and not even three months old. They seem to be wearing a bit & I cannot imagine these tires lasting much over 35k miles.
How are you doing on gas mileage? To date I am averaging a hair under25 mpg since day one. Finally getting use to the abnormally low center arm rest but the seats themselves are not the most comfortable ones I have ever had.
I got the armrest extender-highly recommended.
Cheers,
-wdb
You really shouldn't use the CC on any steep grade or, in rain as we all know.
I would wonder if the Downhill-Assist and cruise control are, for some reason, in conflict with each other.
Colby
thanks for your reply. Called dealer and spoke to a different service rep-- "oh yeas, they need that since they're not aligned off the truck, and one front and rear alignment is covered under warranty."
So why didn't the other service rep mention this when I asked him point blank about it two months ago?
The beauty of the Intertet, vol. 487,686. Owners, watch your service reps!
best,
www3
nothing steep yet, just minor hills.
Pulsing is not critical issue, just a minor annoyance..ie not to the other standards of the car so far.
Side note-These cars seem to be so well built and well-engineered that you find yourself expecting perfection!
Tell me more about downhill assist please.
www3
Call me obsessive but after I drove our family's new 2001 Outback Limited Wagon home last week and everyone else was tucked into bed, I read the owner's manual. Surprised was I to read that the power outlet located at the bottom of the dashboard is not to be used for *any* electrical accessory other than the official Subaru cigarette lighter else there is a risk of fire! So I'm wondering where am I supposed to plug in a cell phone (more truthfully my wife is wondering since she gets to drive the new addition)? Should I get a *really* long cord to connect to the power point in the cargo area? Since the wagon is a 5MT, the Subaru option for an additional 12V outlet in the center console doesn't apply.
I figure, the owner's manual must be wrong, I'm walking through parking lots and seeing Outbacks with cell phone cords in lighter sockets all over the place. So I send an e-mail to the General Inquiries section of the SoA website.
Here's the response:
Yes, there is a difference between the power outlet located at the bottom of
the dashboard and the one in the cargo area. The one in the dashboard was
designed for a cigarette lighter, and was designed for a short term
connection. With the long term use of a cell phone in this outlet, there is
a concern of a potential problem with the internal heating elements becoming
too hot. The outlet in the cargo area was designed for use with products
other than a cigarette lighter.
Therefore, there is no error in the owner's manual pertaining to these
outlets.
A colleague of mine did offer one suggestion for using your cell phone in
your vehicle. She advised that you could fully charge your phone (at home
if convenient), and only use the outlet in the cargo area if necessary or in
the case of an emergency.
I hope that this further information is helpful, and please feel free to
contact us again if you need future assistance. Best wishes!!
John J. Mergen
Subaru of America, Inc.
+++
I'm a bit skeptical of the response (heating elements in the socket?!). Does anyone know if the facts are as stated above?
Responses:
There are no heating elements in the typical lighter socket. The heating elements are in the lighter itself.
It could be that the wiring and/or fuse used for the lighter socket is designed for short, bursty use however. I personally can't imagine how a cell phone charging unit would overload a lighter circuit; they don't take much juice. But other stuff certainly might, so Subaru may be erring on the side of caution.
Cheers,
WDB
Bookmark
I've had our cell phone plugged in there several times - including one time just to charge it on a trip home.
I think we're probably safe with plugging in most cell phones or radar detectors since they typically don't suck a lot of juice (or heat up the wires). I'd probably stay away from powering one of those air compressors or a tv with that power outlet. I have neither of those things, so I won't worry.
I'm also no engineer - so I could be wrong on this.
Patti or Darlene: should we worry about this?
I have a 2000 Outback 5spd and have routinely used the outlet up front to charge my cell phone with no problem. I can not see how it would be dangerous, as it is not drawing a lot of electricity. Also, the typical portable handsfree kit for cell phones gets hooked up to the cigarette lighter, so I can't see how it is wrong to use.
Mark
As I anticipated, other people are using the dashboard socket for cell phones without incident. It's likely that francophile's comments are closer to the truth than the response offered by the customer service rep at SoA. Perhaps the lighter socket in the dashboard has a higher amperage slow blow fuse which is different than the fuse for any other 12V power outlets in the car. It would be nice to get a definitive answer on ths subject from a more knowledgeable SoA representative. Any ideas on how I might pursue that?
As for the power outlet, I have a hands-free kit for my Nokia phone, which is ALWAYS plugged in when I'm driving. It has not been a problem for the phone or my Forester.
I actually have a cell phone cradle and plug mine in at all time, every single time I drive, for over a year now. Never had a problem.
However, I also have a notebook PC with a car charger and it works fine until I start the car. The ignition interferes with the charger some how, and I've had the notebook crash. Nothing a good 3 finger salute can't fix!
Mark
My experience; the cigartte lighter can fail to pop-up when it is fully heated or it will literally eject out of the socket and be at places you won't want it to be with the element glowing redhot. Both scenario has occured with my '98 OB.
-Dave
I have a '69 van that I recently diagnosed as having problem 1, except that it is the driver's front that is doing the lion's share of the braking. I replaced the front pads last summer and was blown away that the driver's side shoes were nearly gone while the passenger's side still had 50-60%. I started it up a few days ago to wake it up from winter hibernation. After I got it out of it's hole and up onto the ice, I found it was next to impossible to stop because the only wheel that would lock up was the driver's front... the rear drive wheels would just keep pushing me along as if I was not braking at all... I'm gonna have to work on that one in a couple months. :-D
On level or upgrade no prob.
You can now order a custom bracket that is made for every new car model out there that enables you to mount the hands free right on, or off the dashboard. I forgot the name of the supplier but any Verizon store can order one for you. Only cost around $25 or so but well worth it.
Well, the subject at hand is using the cigarette lighter adapter. As you can see, don't need it for cell phone, but while travelling used constantly for Garmin GPS & no problems at all.
If I remember right, my Outbacks did not even come with a lighter -- just a plastic plug. My 05 Outback does have a lighter element. Oddly, there is not enough room to plug any type of cell phone charger in there, but it's no biggie -- I use the socket in the center console bin. In fact, I installed a second socket in there for my iPod charger.
Craig
Downhill assist: The car tries to keep the road speed (or trail speed as it may be) the same when you go down a hill so, you don't have to brake...as much. I'm getting the impression that this isn't the problem at all.
I'm sure you don't want to hear this but, since you're both having this issue it sounds like a Subaru issue. AND HERE IT COMES!! I would talk to your dealer. Ouch!! Not having to deal with a dealer is partly why I joined a forum.
Well, not all dealers are satan re-encarnated.
Sorry I couldn't be more help.
-Colby
It could be related to the brakes. Check your wheel wells for anything loose, you're tires could be rubbing.
Finding a trustworthy mechanic can be tough. Especially when you're a college student. I go to school in Upstate NY and I just asked my friends who their parents went to.
I'm looking for an answer to the vibration. I'll get back to you.
Mildly infuriated as I wrote this last night and then lost it - the joys of computers!
I had a similar problem with my 99 OB Ltd.
Subaru here in Australia immediately replaced the Engine Management Unit which partially solved the problem but did not remove it entirely. I found the surging when coming from a long downhill run rather exciting. West of Melbourne, there is a long downhill run coming off a mountain range followed by a flat area then gentle up-slope leading into steep climb. Under these conditions, the throttle goes from a long spell of being closed, when the vehicle is running down hill with engine braking to slightly open throttle to gradual opening and finally hard acceleration.
Subarus are fitted with an adaptive learning profile in the Engine Management Unit that modifies its behaviour based upon the most recent driving behaviour. This is weighted toward the most recent throttle settings but takes about twenty minutes information in total. If you have accelerated hard away from a few sets of lights, the throttle will seem sprightlier but if you have been very conservative, the car will seem less sporty.
Now, here is the hard part. Analogue systems allow continuing variation between off and on but digital systems, as used in modern computers and engine management systems, offer a range of discrete settings. When the engine has been very lean, as for example after running down hill for a lengthy period, the application of even the smallest throstle setting will introduce a significant increase in fuel input.
That explains the surge. Once applied, the throttle will back off, leaving a lean spell. Rich, then lean and so on. I'm not sure what you call them in the States but here we refer to sudden jolting as "Kangaroo Hops" (typical of learner drivers in manual cars).
The fix is happily straightforward. Here in Australia, Shell sell a Premium Unleaded fuel with detergents and other additives branded as Optimax, which dramatically reduces the surging behaviour. This was recommended by Subaru of Australia and shows a reduction in fuel usage of about 10%. Offset against this is a price premium of about 5% but eh net effect is a cost reduction of some 5% and the elimination of many dirty fuel issues. I expect that similar premium fuel is available in the USA.
Incidentally, Subarus seem prone to issues of cheap fuel. Whilst it is tempting to think all petrol is the same, the majors genuinely do modify their product through additives, to improve its characteristics.
If you are able to run replicable testing (say through a regular run over similar time and route, it is worth experimenting. I have found variances of about 15% from best to worst. I don’t want to sound like an advert for the big oil companies, but it is definitely a case of getting what you pay for!
Cheers
Graham
Then just recently the car seemed like it was running rough again, and again it stalled. I think the stalling was more likely to occur when the car was cold so I took it in to the dealer, and told them to wait until the car cooled off to drive it. It was another front oxygen sensor gone bad.
Krzys
Bob
I've got a '99 OB Leg wagon 2.5 litre. she has about 139,000 on her.
About 4 weeks ago, I went through a GIGANTIC puddle. And all hell has been breaking loose ever since!
My catalytic converter went, along with the o2 sensors. We replaced that. The car was fine for a couple of days. THEN: it rained again.
We found that there were 2 hairline cracks in the ignition coil. At any hint of dampness in the air, the car would actually miss fire on cylinder 3. and would not stay running. I'd step on the gas with no response, and complete loss of power.
So we replaced the plugs, the wires, and the ignition coil.
The next day, after this repair was made, it rained... so for fun, i thought I would see if the car would act up again. It was fine. hmm.... did the new wires, plugs and coil solve the problem? That was last saturday.
Guess not cuz I got stranded again in another rainstorm tonight. However, this seems different than last time. I didnt go through any deep puddles, for one thing. But here's what's got me stumped...
The car will start, it starts like a champ - but it wont stay running. It sputters and kicks, and then stalls. I could not get it home, even. The idle jumps in rpms between 500 and 1500.
I am lost! Is my fuel filter junked up? Did somehow driving in rain manage to get water into the system? The engine seems to behave as if it is not getting a proper constant supply of gas, or maybe the gas is crappy or has water in it or something. The fuel pump must be ok, it's getting gas enough to start the car, every time i crank it. But it just wont stay running...
After managing to get it started, I kept it in park, and leaned on the gas pedal. After multiple attempts, it stayed running, although very rough and sputtery still. I got brave and put it in drive, made it about 200 yards, and it stalled while running - that was a little scary, no power steering and all...
I have quite a lot of love for this car, and a quite lot tied up in repairs at this point. Any suggestions out there? I love my outback... but i am afraid to take it anywhere for fear of being stranded.
\Whatever advice you may have would be great before i go blow another grand on parts and repairs *sigh*
It seemed like I had a little more control over it though because I have a stick (I'm assuming you have an auto). Not quite enough control though. Losing all power can be rather interesting in heavy traffic.
Do you know if it's a vaccuum hose? I think your current issue is different than your last problem with the cracked coil.
Colby
It sounds, being that your problem is one-wheel specific, that the caliper is sticking on that axle/tire. The car most likely vibrates because the caliper is pulsating against the rotor. Personally, I would change the caliper, put on new rear rotors and pads (both sides), and see what happens.
Possibly a bad strut or wheel bearing could also be making the squeak, which is not unlikely if you've driven the car with a sticking caliper for 5000+ miles.
As long as it is mechanically and functionally sound. :shades:
-juice
I just saw a set of these decals on eBay. I'm almost positive that you could find one or two sides with a little time. eBay is a great source for this kind of stuff but, make sure you read a members' profile before you buy from them. It's rare but, once in a while you'll find a bad businessman.
--Colby
Anyone else have some suggestions?
when i got it, it had just over 95 000 km on it, so i thought it would be a nice little pick up. heres the problem though. after driving on the highway one day, i stopped for coffee and the whole inside of the car started filling up with smoke. aparently, its a $7 gasket that was leaking oil, and the dealership said they fixed it. im still smelling the smoke occasionally though, and im not sure if they just didnt clean the old stuff off or not. ive heard this is a pretty common problem, but am i going to have to replace it every time i take it on a trip?
heres the second, and potentially much larger, problem. ive been noticing that when it shifts from 1st to 2nd, that its a pretty hard shift. its not nearly as smooth as any other car ive driven, or any of the other gears for that matter. you dont have to be pedal to the floor for it to happen either, quite the opposite actually. it does the same thing sometimes (most of the time) if im slowing for a redlight. its like its fighting to get it into first, and it lurches when it does. ive also noticed that when i make a sharpish right hand turn, ie. an off ramp, or into a parking lot, that it makes this loud clunk/grinding sometimes when i step on the gas. i can feel it through the floorboards, and im not sure what it is, but its not something that sounds like it should be happening.
anyways, i appreciate any help you guys/girls can give me here. thanks ahead of time.
You can try to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for about 20 minutes. I tried this, but the car went right back to it's shifting habits.
As for the transmission leaks, there are 2 possible causes. One is the transmission pan gasket. The second is the external filter. I had leaks on both. Same symptons - burning smell and smoke. After being repaired, I have had no problems for over 20k.
The clunk/grinding is possibly a CV joint or differential. Have you had this checked, and fluids serviced recently? Hope this helps. Rob M.
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If the antenna is low-profile and small, there's space between the hood and the windshield up front. Personally, I think it's the best place to mount that it is quite, if not very, inconspicuous with minimal panel removal. That's the route I would be taking when I go forward with installing an external GPS antenna.
-Dave
Thanks, Andy
-juice
Owen
I want to know how to temporarily remove the ceiling and either the A-piller panel, the B-piller panels, the step-guard and possibly the dash on the driver’s side. I thought it would be easy enough to figure these things out. Apparently the fasteners are well-hidden though.
I have taken it back to the dealer several times since 7/03. The following items have been replaced so far: spark plugs & wires and coil (8/03 - code P0303), evaporation vent solenoid valve (by local mechanic - different CEL code - 11/04), tank pressure sensor at 77.1K (1/05 - code P0446), and new wiring harness at 78.0K (2/05 - code P0446). The car just hit 80K about ten days ago, and passed NYS emissions inspection 7 days ago. The CEL came back on 5 days ago and has been on steadily since then. The P0420 code again came up today.
Is there anything else that could be causing this code besides the converter failing? I want to know what else to anticipate before I bring it back to the original dealer. Also, should I call Subaru to set up a case before going to the dealer?
Thanks!
3subfam