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Comments
Minnesota has 10% in everything too. By 2010 or 12? they will require 20%. I believe the the Engery Bill signed by GW also had some statements about 20% ethanol by 2012.
It worries me that subies can only burn 10%. GM, Ford and DC have E85 vehicals. In fact our 98 Grand Caravan was one and our current Tahoe is another. I haven't tried it yet because its hard to find. I did see it once for 85 cents a gallon.
A co-worker burns E85 in his van. Only slightly lower mpg and doesn't notice any change in performance. He admitts there is probably some.
--jay
Our 626 has hesitation/stumbling problems as it turned out to be in need of a throttle body service, i.e. fuel system cleaning. That might help, and it was cheap.
-juice
Good luck.
-Wes-
I had the crankshaft seals replaced at 87,000 due to oil leakage. (It recently started leaking again) The pulley would have been removed at that point. Is it possible the pulley was not replaced properly and if so would it last 25,000 miles before slipping out? :confuse:
He is a reputable mechanic, although sometimes his workers performance is not quite up to par, so I know he is not taking advantage of the situation for the money.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Yooper
Otherwise I love this car. I was surprised by the amount of go the small powerplant produces, the handling and the ride. It's fun to drive, and I imagine the manual would be even better. I could forgo the wind noise that seems to come from the mirrors, but keeping the stereo up seems to fix that .
Regards,
David
Steve
If you need a mechanic to do a crank replacement, it will probably be better just to opt for a replacement.... probably.
If you were talking 'drive' end (flywheel / flexplate), I would agree, you are probably in trouble. But considering that the accessory pulley is only called for to provide a max of say 20 hp or so (just the acccessories...), it only requires some creative thinking.
I once scewed up the pulley on a lawn tractor. But as it was the PTO, we are talking ballpark wise the same amount of power delivery. I carved out the keyway a bit more into the crankshaft, substituted a larger key, and added a generous amount of industrial strength grey metallic epoxy. I gave away the unit 10 years later still holding strong.
Steve
IF...... If I do have to replace the motor, does anyone know what year motors fit into the 98 Outback? I assume the 96 to 2000 will fit as there was only subtle changes to the car. Will a 2001-2005 Outback motor bolt up to the same brackets? If I have to replace a motor it would be nice to get a newer, lower mileage one.
I throw in my two cents here. I hate to say it but the tire shop probably won't replace the tires. You can try to go through the warranty (new tires should have them) and see what goes through there.
My experience with the Goodrich Traction T/A's is somewhat similar. I replaced the OEM firestones at 40K with the Goodrich tires. The firestones were OK basically. The Goodrich tires were rated to 50K and had good reviews from several online sources when compared to Bridgestones. So I brought them. But at 64K on the OB, all tires have wear (bald/ no tread) on all corners. I have done the necessary things for tires (balance, alignment, rotations, proper inflation) as required. I don't expect to get 40K out of these tires. Now a friend has a Forester and he was matter of fact that AWD cars will wear tires out faster. He has over 100K on the Subarus and is on his 4 set of tires. The weight of the car impacts the tire life, my OB is 3700 lbs, getting moving and coming to a stop take longer then my 2600 lb honda. That puts more stress on the tires.
Sorry no answer for ya but good luck.
Steve
Thanks to those who posted with ideas!
Yooper
Steve
The trick it to catch it early. If you do, it's just a matter of changing the gasket, a couple hundred dollars. If you warp the heads, good luck...
-juice
I have the Rear View Dimming Mirror. I drove it this morning at 6 am and was blinded by the lights behind me. I had it turned on. I don't think I'm light sensitive, but this was very annoying. Compass works, so I'm wondering if the sensors have stopped working.
Before I take it back to the dealer, can you all let me know how this mirror works? Is it a noticible difference when it's on and working?
It's going back anyway for the fog lights not working. I'm considering getting the back windows & trunk window tinted (my last vehicle had tinting and I liked the look and the privacy factor). Would that help?
Any advice is appreciated.
Sounds decent to me! Hope you waved as you went by the Beekman Rd exit (just north of I-84).
Steve
Steve
But a bulb is cheap, I think at Costco they're $10 a pair or so. Just carry an extra one.
-juice
Thing is, Subies do not depreciate quickly, so you might find a new one is a better buy. Plus the '05s got a lot of nice improvements. Good luck.
-juice
While accelerating my 04 OB H6 on the highway(65-70mph), I notice a slight studdering of the vehicle.
Anyone come across this?
Thanks.
-juice
Not sure I agree with you on that one. I think it more has to do with the tires, the road surfaces, and the drivers than it does with the drivedness/weight of the car (though obviously the weight will make a difference). I have 70K (I think they were rated for 80K) on a set of Goodyear Allegras and while I am considering replacing them before winter hits, I may hold off due to the excessive fuel costs eating at any $ I had reserved for the purchase. I expect I can probably get another 20K out of them without pushing it too much. I am currently considering the TripleTread tires or maybe a.... darn, forgot what they are. some sort of water/snow tire that Costco carries. I think it was a Potenza, but not the RE92.....
I've never had an alignment performed on this car (a '96 OBW), and I feel it steadily pulling to the right, so it probably does need an alignment. But, the pull is rather soft and seems to have more to do with the air pressure in the front right tire than anything. That tire has a slow leak that drops about 10 psi per week so I have to check it with every fill up. Maybe a valve stem? I should probably check that. :mad:
I think I know the exact bracket to which you are referring. Grr.... .darned plastic parts! I missed 2 months of summer air conditioning waiting on that $12 part! :P
-Wes-
-Wes-
-juice
I have a 1997 OB and have had similer problems. A few years back I had to have the trasmission repalced ($4500). Recently I have been experiencing the same sort of problems you describe in your post. The RMPs will increase as I step on the accelerator but the car will not increase in speed - almost as if it's stuck in 1st gear. Eventually the car engages (or cluncks) back into gear and all is well. This usualy happens when I am in stop and go traffic on my way home from work. On the open road it is running great. Have you found any solution to your problem yet?
Ian
Phil
! the only reason to do it is really so when you do crash and it doesn;t go off, SOA can't get off scott free by saying you never got it checked!
I had not considered the legal implications. I would never hold someone else responsible for something I did, but apparently my opinion is not shared by the "masses" judging by the US legal system today... so I should be wary! That, especially, was good feedback.
-Wes-
Where the heck do you add ATF to my '03 Legacy (2.5)??? Through the dipstick???
Alland
I'm taking it in tomorrow but I fear the mechanic will just look at me like I'm crazy.
Any idea what it could possibly be?
No check-engine light? I hope OBD2 captures some useful data for them.
-juice
Steve
However, it would not have started again later, so you're probably right.
-juice