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Comments
She should change the oil every 6 months or so regardless of her mileage. And ASAP, of course.
-juice
I have a flashing AT Oil Temp light on my 99 Legacy GT. I had a major voltage spike in my alternator and this is one of the after effects. I have driven it very little since I replaced the alternator (around the block) but it seems to shift fine. Tranny fluid is ok.
My question is: What is the likelyhood that it would be safe to drive my car about 13-15 miles to the shop to get this (and all my other issues due to my voltage spike) fixed? I don't want to ruin my transmission too!
Steve
Still don't know what caused the original issue for sure, the alternator was a big part of it but I'm not sure if anything else was in play.
After taking it home and attempting to troubleshoot it, I've made more progress than the first shop I took it too. (they missed a short in the sub fan) There's still more than I can handle going on with this. I'm trying a reputable shop before breaking down and spending the big bucks at the dealer.
I would recommend that you keep the underbody shroud intact. You certainly get enough snow and salt up where you are in Hartford to be able to appreciate what a difference it will make in terms of cleanliness and protection. Salt kills, and any shielding that keeps it away from mechanical and electrical parts is a good thing, in my book. Replace the fasteners, or fashion something to hold it in place. I would still stick with 5k or so on the oil changes, no longer if you can help it.
Bulbs are picky things. The ones on my OBW are fine, but I have gone thru two in the past three months on my Honda. The glass is intact, and the high beam filament is fine, but in both cases the low beam filament fractured in just about the same place. Could be a manufacturing issue, or maybe some kind of coupled harmonic that the fine windings resonate to and it beats them to death? Who knows....
Steve
Steve
It is total [non-permissible content removed] in today's manufacturing to say that one quart per 1,000 miles is acceptable, for CONSUMPTION of oil. If that is your standard, you should make lawn mowers, not cars. But this car is LEAKING oil.
We took it in to the dealer. They went, baddabing, baddaboom, we don't see any leak. Besides, it's normal for a little bit of high oil consumption when a car is new, bring it back in 1,000 miles, blah-blah, blah-blah.
It isn't CONSUMING. It is LEAKING.
Now, it is up to me to wait for the perfect day and go out and find the leak, and then point to it. I will do that, but I think everyone should start checking their oil and looking for spots at your parking area.
Steve
-juice
Steve
It's nice to use the pressure washer - I never have to touch the cars. Especially when the water is cold. Brrrr.
-juice
I knew there had to be an official name for that thing (underbody shroud). I was thinking about the weather just around the corner as well, the shroud certainly would offer considerable protection. I will also replace the fasteners, or was also considering some replacement hardware to hold it in place which wouldn't be too hard to do. 5k is the mileage I had in mind as well for oil changes.
My bulb looked just plain burnt out. At least it's in easy an relatively inexpensive repair when it does happen. I remember buying the entire head lamp on Hondas I've had in the past. I also remember fixing the wiring harness a few times on my wife's '86 Accord that had the concealed headlights, over time the open/close movement caused the wiring to deteriorate.
Steve
Steve
Thanks
We estimate the load at about 1500 lbs. No problems here.
Your Outback is heavier and has a longer weelbase and bigger brakes, so it should do as well or better. But you're also carrying more weight.
Leave plenty of room for braking, that's the one thing I noticed - longer stopping distances. Acceleration was OK, just not quick like it usually is.
-juice
1) How do I reach the broken antenna to remove it?
2) There are many websites selling different types of antenna. Any suggestions??
3) The current broken antenna is motorized. Can I replace it with something simpler and economical?
The hard part was taking the old one out. Luckily for me the trunk isn't lined so it was exposed. But it still wasn't easy.
Installing the new one is a piece of cake. I found mine at WalMart, of all places. Cheap too, something like $10.
So focus on the removal. The rest is easy to find and install.
-juice
Where do you live? In MA, NH, VT, ME CO, WA OR etc Subarus and repair shops are common.
I had head gaskets changed at 140K miles - it was about $1,200 at a garage. Most garages that work on Subarus have plenty of experience doing this as many, many 95-99 OB's blow their head gaskets. SOA is stonewalling, so don't expect to hear from them: but some parts departments indicate they are now on their seventh part number for head gaskets. The whole deal should be around $2,000 or so, I'd guesstimate.
I found the best place to find mechanics (unless you get a lucky driveby here) is the "MechanX files" the guys from Car Talk run. Just look for a foreign repair garage: many of them work on Subarus but don't say so specifically. But the flat 4 is dofferent from most so you don't want to be their first.
Cars like yours sell for about $2,000 at most. Repaired, it's worth more like $5,000 so although frustrating the repair is probably worthwhile unless you burnt up the engine, and might be worthwhile even then. My sister in law had to replace at 142K and now has 243K on another '97.
Also, can you tell me what make/model the rubber whip antenna is?
My only concern would be to make sure the surface is flush enough. My whip antennae adjust by spinning and then the mounting angle so you could pretty much get it to point upward from any angle.
-juice
Len
Yep, happens every single time I get the oil changed on both cars. Go home & refill them!
Steve
The car was brought in multiple times for this problem. Subaru then decided to repair the "computer chip" that is involved in cruise control. The repair fixed the cruise "kicking out" problem but has not improved the surging problem.
Miliage is about 25-28, again mainly highway, I have managed 31 mpg driving very carefully, which means amoung other things, always keeping some pressure on the gas unless braking (meaning if you need to slow down, don't take you foot totally off, just enough so you start to slow). The MPG indicator ranges from 1 to 3 mpg high. This is for that zero evaporative emmisions engine for CA, NY, and other states.
No problem w/ the headlight, or the gas cable.
My '02 OBW (2.5L) did pretty much the same thing to me at the tender age of under 2 years / 15k miles. Check the backside of the engine head on the drivers side (#4 cyl) - near the master brake cylinder. It takes a stretch, but with a flashlight and mirror, examine the back of the head, block, and down onto the grey painted frame crossmember. Mine was well coated with green slime.
While the '96-'99 DOHC leaked internally causing overheating, fortunately, most of the '00 - '02 SOHC leak externally. It doesn't become a tragedy without giving plenty of notice first. You are still under the powertrain warranty. If it is wet back there, ideally they will replaced the head gasket, but they may insist on the leakstop stuff first. Push back if it is loosing coolant rapidly, as the surfaces may be too damaged to patch chemically.
The availability of the extended warranty is spotty for '02's. I think all '00-'01 were covered, but my request was denied on my '02 even though I had already suffered a failure!! I even called SoA, but they told me that someone had hand picked the 'probable' VIN numbers, and mine wasn't included. Go figure....
Steve
You are mean! I love my car!!! The cold nights must be having a negative effect on your judgment.
Funny, but as I walked away from my Subi in the office lot this morning, I look back and around. I kept thinking that considering I have had it for over 4 years now, it looked pretty damn fine! Not the most expensive, but well cared for non the less.
All the more reason that I am concerned about the continuing HG saga. I don't want to sound pessimistic, but I really fully expect it to let me down again.
Steve
I'll check the area you mentioned & keep an eye on the coolant level. I was also wondering how would one VIN qualify, but not another for the same year. The dealer said he could enter my VIN to see if my car would "qualify". Did you end up getting the gasket replaced? I see that there's a few web sites about this particular issue. I'll check them out. I've heard of early head gasket failures on Dodge Neons or the old K cars, but really never thought I'd have to worry about a Subaru that's only a few years old. Thanks for the info.
Steve
Steve
Wondering what the little plastic "wind deflector" flaps were for under my 2003 Legacy SE wagon. One was ripped away by a close encounter with a curb, so I removed the other. Do they deflect or direct air from the brakes? These are not to be confused with the behind-the-wheels "mudflaps" on the outside of the car.
Thanks
Ah, the comedic timing. There's definitely something to be said for a aesthetically maintained car so I congratulate you on your ability to consistently do it! Mine, on the other hand, is not *quite* so prestine in that regard, but it is mechanically sound and that is what primarily matters to me. We keep it generally "clean," but I do not bother with cosmetic blemishes like small dents, scrapes, perhaps a minorly shattered bumper or a mangled front license plate.....
1) I do not feel like I can get the first to second gear transition right under "spirited" driving I feel like when I let up on the clutch (not dropped but quickly disengaged) it seems like the car hesitates and then goes.. does this have anything to do with powertrain protection or the turbo or am I just an idiot.. I have always had manuals and I have had a couple now, and I do find my self relatively decent at driving manuals.. anybody have any advice? or is it a more modern car protecting itself? or do I just need to practice (I will probably do this on occasion anyway)
2) I have a manual and when the windows are down, and I run through first and second gears (wind noise takes over after that) I can hear a distinct whine that increases with the engine speed (doesn't seem like a delayed whistle of the turbo) is this the fly wheel I have heard that Subaru doesn't (on purpose) do much to cover this up fly wheel whine as it in their opinion sounds good.. anybody knows what this is for sure? or any ideas?
thanks
They tune it now to maximize fuel efficiency, so when you let off the throttle they cut off fuel completely, and this can at time feel abrupt.
I think that's what you're feeling.
-juice
SoA claims that the problem was fixed by '02, and that my car is clean. Yet it was one of the earliest HG failures my dealer had ever seen. That is why I am concerned. Yes, they did take care of it, and I bought an extended warranty that will cover everything thru 80k miles, but the specific HG warranty others are getting would cover thru 100k miles.
Steve
Glad to hear I gave you a laugh! My biggest headache is the kids. The few scratches I have down the sides are from bicycles.
Steve
And then, if you call 800-SUBARU3, don't you think they'll have a more sympathetic ear to a Subaru Gold customer?
I don't perceive much difference in risk. Your Gold warranty covers everything else, and the odds of "anything else" happening between now and 80k miles is a whole lot higher.
Long story short: don't worry, be happy.
Oooh, oh, oh oh-oh oh oh oh oh-oh oh oooooh
Don't worry
Oh oh oh oh-oh oh oooooh
Be Happy
Oh oh oh oh ooooooh
Don't worry be happy now
-juice
I wasn't aware that the <2005 Legacy had them. My 2005 has them too.
Ken
Don't know if you're still a member here, but I have the same problem. Did you ever get the info on making the change? If so, I'd be most grateful for a copy as well...
Many thanks,
Randy