Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
-juice
Even though the car runs fine, I fear there may be a larger problem with my transmission. (The car has 120,000 miles on it.) Anyone have any insight? Thanks...
Matt
The steering is very very light, almost effortless.
One think that is quite odd to me is that, the speed
with which the car straightens up, when you take the
hands off the steering wheel.
Normally when I make a right turn from a stop sign for
example, half way through the turn I relax the grip
and let the car straighten out to complete the turn.
I am used to the feel of my other cars,
(98 Nissan Sentra and 97 Legacy Wagon L). But this 06
Legacy Sedan, does not straighten back as fast. It does
straighten, and it does not pull to one side or the other
on straight stretches, even with hands off the wheel.
But at these very low speeds, less than 10-15 mph, it
seems to be slower than expected.
Is it normal? Or am I used to the stiff steering of the
older, cheaper cars?
The above is a guess, as I don't know all that much about how power steering works.
and try to test how long it takes to straighten
out.
Will set the steering at 11 O clock or
1 O' clock position and drive at 10 mph with
hands off the wheel.
Bright Idea: :surprise:
Should take a video camera
and record the instrument panel and the steering
wheel too. That way I can import the video clip
into the computer and precisely calculate how long
it takes for the wheel to straighten out.
Any ideas?
PS... I haven't tried a gel seat cushion becasue I can't find one anywhere....besides... the problem is that the bolsters are too hard and narrow... and placing a cushion on it will just make it too high. If I lower it all the way, then it tilts forward. The only answer is a reupholstery shop or try it myself.
I checked out the 2006 OB seat and it was redesigned slightly...and I think it seems a little more comfortable ( the bolsters seem softer and the bottom pad layout is altered). Doesn't do me any good.
trunnion - I'd go with the most likely, a simple burned out bulb.
-juice
I think you need a good shop manual, that's what I would search for. Ideally you mark the belts before you remove the old ones.
-juice
If you are NOT referring to the timing belt, please clarify your original post.
Good luck!
Thanks,
rowdy_rita bought all new parts and got everything installed except the belts.
She [I suppose] could not make out anything from the instructions, which were too fine a print, and was wondering if anyone have a more legible instructions to install the belts.
-deciphering off-
-Dave
What I want to know is:
1- is this true?
2- What is the downside of using this itty-bitty filter instead of the standard 'man sized' one?
thanks
i want get a cd player. i currently have the factory tape/am-fm-weatherband radio made by panasonic installed. there is a 13 prong connector on the back of it. will that unit support a cd changer. if so, how can i figure out what CD changers it will support? will it support the clarion 6-cd changer that was made for subaru's from 1998-2001? if i want to stay with the factory look do i need to buy the CD/tape/am-fm-weatherband radio which was an option for that year?
2. my dash lights on the right side (cruise control, hazard, climate controls) aren't illuminating. the lights on the left side seem to be ok. i checked both fuse boxes. there are no broken fuses. any idea's?
I want to replace the two front with Yokohamas from TireRack.
Sears won't replace one or two tires on the OB unless they are all exactly same tire.
Does it matter as long as they are all within the same diameter/tread wear?
The Potenzas are lousy in the snow and I'm not getting them again.
Since the old tires have a good amount of miles on 'em, the tread will be lower and the overall diameter of the tire will be less than an equivalent sized new tire. Sears probably doesn't shave tires, so they're correct in saying NO to you.
If you can find a place that'll shave the new tires to the same tread depth or overall tire diameter of the old tires, you *could* get the new tires. But, since you already dislike the Potenza's, just opt for new tires now and be safer.
-Brian
If the ECM does not know how much the throttle plate is open, determining the correct amt of fuel, ignition timing, etc., gets very dicy.
Steve
Be sure to join the Eagle One team in a live chat event tonight to find out how nanotechnology is changing the future in car appearance products.
The chat gets underway at 9PM ET/6PM PT.
There's also going to be a special offer available only to those attending the chat, so don't miss this one.
Eagle One Team Chat
Hope to see you there!
Maybe.... taking the family out for dinner tonight.
Steve
Also, and this has nothing to do with my outback, but doing my Federal Taxes, some of you may know for business miles the rate was something like 40.5 cents for first 8 months last year, then up to 47 or 48 cents for last three months. Now I hear it is back down again. At any rate, any opinions on the average fuel price, per gallon, here in the Northeast for the entire year? I was guessing somewhere around $2.30 or $2.40. Any and all comments would be appreciated.
1 - Check the pressure, low pressure can cost gas.
2 - When did you get the new tires? Winter gas blends (oxygenated) usually get less mpg then straigh gasoline, and many people, including myself, have noticed a drop of MPG after the Katrena huricane, some have speculated that in order to get things going again 'low quality' gas was made, just to get volumne.
My area does not use oxygenated gas, but before the huricane I would get about 27-28 mpg, but with some very careful driving, highway only I could manage 30 mpg, after the huricane I was luckly to hit 27 at all, just recently I am back in the 27-28 mpg range.
3 - On my former car (FWD) I would get 25-26 mpg with the standard tires, but when I put on snowtires on the front only it fell to 23-24, so tires can make a difference.
How do these rear 'aux' ports work, does it just detect sound comming from it and then switch to aux mode automatically, or is there some switch marked aux on the front so you can switch it manually?
On the flip side, these tires have great forward traction compared to any tire I have had on the car in the past. Good stopping traction, excellent acceleration traction and steering control. If I was on primarily dry or wet roads, I would have gone with the GY Allegras (at nearly half the price!) I had on it the last time.
I will chime in again after spring arrives.... in a few months!
PF Flyer
Host
News & Views, Wagons, & Hybrid Vehicles
The Subaru Crew Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
The best I've seen so far is from the user "jazzymt". He sells it off another forum, and I think rules here don't permit us to post a link to it. But you can find more information by Googling for "jazzymt plug and play".
His solution has been proven to work by many satisifed customers. He taps into the CD audio. It's somewhat awkward because you have to play a blank CD (which he gives you), and the headphone input from your source is just "superimposed". Buyers have said it's much better-sounding than an FM modulator solution.
I haven't bought it yet but I plan to. He includes detailed instructions on installing it. Works on 2005/2006 Outbacks with the 6-CD changer and, with some caveats, on single-CD units too.
Unfortunately, Subaru's audio head unit shares a circuit board with the climate control system so adding an aux-in is not that simple. Thus you don't see solutions from vendors like Blitzsafe. Pity.
jazzymt's solution is ingenious and he deserves a a huge amount of praise from the Outback community. It starts at just $45.
This is endlessly discussed on subaruoutback and legacygt.
Jazzy has a description on legacygt.
It was so bad a couple of weeks ago I thought we'd lost the oil.
I worked hard to maintain the civility of my relationship with the dealership while this has been going on since they also service my 04 FXT. Maybe they're doing it just to shut me up .
My point with this post - a thank-you to everyone who has posted about piston slap, what it should and shouldn't sound like, and the various methods they employed to get their problems resolved.
Now to keep my fingers crossed that the repair goes well.
Larry
That's great news. I'm curious as to how they fix the piston slap now. Back when I had it on my 98 Forester, all they did was replace the stock pistons with ones that had longer sleeves. However, it was my understanding that Subaru eventually moved to this design in all their engines.
Also, will the dealer replace the short block too? If it is at all possible, I'd have them replace both since you would be putting in brand new pistons in a block with 38K miles. I'd wonder how well the piston rings will break-in and seal in this situation.
Ken
Now the bad news I have the slap noise back not nearly as bad .It only lasts about 3-5mins when engine is cold. I have taken it back to dealer for the noise . They say that SOA will not authorize future repairs because it is a charactaristic of the engine design.
I have to say that my outback has not burned any oil during its life.I now have 61k miles on it now .
Mike k
Anyway... having to spend $530 for 4 new tires because I damaged one is not very economical and I probably will not purchase an AWD car next time around.
The manager at STS was suprised I knew this. He said almost everyone who comes in with an AWD vehicle is ignorant of this.
-Brian
That is unless there is a way for the drive wheels to 'lock' together such as posi traction. Subies will lock and unlock wheels as needed and you really want matching tires.
Rinky45
-Brian