Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

chelle68 · June 2006

I have a 2000 OB with 98,000 miles on it. My check engine light goes on for awhile then goes off for awhile, sometimes daily sometimes weekly. When I get out and walk around the car it smells hot, like something is burning. We took it to a shop, they ran some tests and said it is either the O2 sensor or catalytic converter. Does the smell say anything to anyone and is there a way to know before I take it in and have both done? I'd rather only fix what needs to be fixed. Also, since the dealer is a ways away can I have it fixed by a general shop since the warranty is expired?
Thanks!

zman3 · June 2006

You should lighten up on cptplt. Check out the N/A 2.5L engines built by Subaru. They are indeed SOHC. The turbos are DOHC. That is from the Subaru web page.

I think some late MY 98's had the SOHC, but if not, I am fairly certain that the 99's were all SOHC. Regardless, they do indeed exist.

mmoncus · June 2006

I hope you guys can help me. When I shift into reverse my engine revs like it is in neutral. I can get it to roll a little bit but not enough to pull out of a parking space. The forward gears don't seem to have any problems, it's just reverse. Do you think I will have to replace the whole transmission or is there something less expensive I can try first?

cptplt · June 2006

>If you have information that can be substantiated that a SOHC 2.5 liter exists, Im always willing to learn something new.

check out the engine specs for the 06 Legacys(non turbo)
http://www.subaru.com/shop/specifications.jsp?year=2006&model=LEGACY&trim=25I_SP- ECIAL_EDITION_SEDAN
and its been like that since the turn of this century

>But, the 2.5 liter engine belt is replaced every 105K.

you are absolutely correct and my memory was at fault, mea culpa! I just remembered it was more than 60K and not the 90 I mentioned. I have a 98 Legacy GT with the 2.5 DOHC, I actually changed my belt at 60K as I had an oil leak which they needed to fix under warranty and the dealer said it would cost only a little more than the parts to do the timing belt at the same time as pretty much all the labor they needed to do the leak would also be needed for the timing belt. They actually ended up having Subaru cover the cost of the belt change too as they said it was "damaged" by the oil leak! One advantage of having the Subaru extended warranty, they have a tendency to do freebies for you, they also once changed the HVAC bulbs in the dash for free which is an uncovered item. I paid almost 2 hours labor to have that done on an older Legacy I had. IIRC saved just under hundred bucks with that free timing belt.
I've actually been changing the belt at 60K intervals as when it was 120K, I figured I should get a new water pump for sure (having had very bad experiences with Acuras and water pumps going out at even less mileage) and again there is only a little more labor necessary to change the timing belt if you are going for the water pump.

I think the basic jist of it all is that the manufacturers recommended 105K is more than adequate and 60 K was way excessive for the 2.2 as everyone in CA didn't have a problem changing it at 105K! Just as the rest of the world seems to do fine on 10K oil changes!

tankmaster · June 2006

cptplt,

Interesting that the 06s use a SOHC.

Now, I need yours and any other knowledable Suby owners help with my latest problem.

Took the battery out tonight to get at #2 and #4 spark plug. I leftthe key in the ignition and had one rear window open. When I reconnect the battery, the alarm triggered. I disconeected the battery, removed the key form the ignition, connected the battery again, and the same think.

Any ideas on how to immediately deactivate the alarm once I connect the battery?

I remeber on my 95, you had to turn the door lock with the key. Will this work on the 98? Also, really curious as to why disconnectiong the battery would mess with the alarm.

Thanks for any help

glaser · June 2006

The A/C in my 06 Outback cycles cold to warm every 15 to 20 seconds. (I've been told once that it stays within the 'acceptable' range when it warms up, and once that it doesn't). I've taken it to the dealer a couple of times now, but I can't seem to get a straight answer. The first time they said nothing was wrong, but after having them sit in the car with me and feel it, they drained and recharged my compressor.

Unfortunately, this did nothing as we found out last weekend on a road trip. I took it back in, and then the service agent called to tell me that he acknowledged something wasn't quite right, but that he'd need to keep it another day. The next day he told me that there was nothing wrong with it. In fact, he said, it is normal for the 06's to do that. He took me for a ride in another 06 and it did have a similar cycle, though it didn't do it when idling (mine does it all the time).

I was excited about this Outback, but I'm afraid I'm going to regret that I bought a Subaru. If this is true of 06's, surely I can't be the only one experiencing this? Any suggestions?

steveb10 · June 2006

I have a similar deal going on with my '06 2.5i OB, with the frequent cycling. The dealer evacuated and re-charged as did yours. He measured the vent temp at 45 degrees, though I don't know if that's when the compressor is engaged or when its not, becuase I think there are some pretty wild swings in vent temp while the AC is running. Dealer claims the AC "works as designed". I have not been on a road trip yet though, but I do know the AC can't cool the car on a hot day on a short trip.

ateixeira · June 2006

For that year they call for inspection at 90k and replacement at 105k. That may be part of the confusion.

-juice

donmaddison · June 2006

The problem occurs between 60 and 70 mph when going up a steep grade (on way up to Lake Tahoe). When attempting to pass and one needs a lttle extra speed, attempting to "kickdown" the transmission by pressing hard on the accelerator results in an almighty bang, screaching tires, and a fear that the transmission is about to fall out!
This problem only occurs under the above stated conditions--otherwise the car is great.
The dealer can not/will not replicate the conditions--they don't want to drive the two hours up to Tahoe!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. DonM

ateixeira · June 2006

I'd start with an ATF flush. Go to a place that has one of those machines that forces new fluid in and sucks the old fluid out.

How is the ATF level now? Any burned smell?

-juice

xwesx · June 2006

Well, not to contradict anyone too much, there were both the 2.2L and 2.5L available on the '96 models. In 1997, the Outback went strictly to the 2.5L. For the '96 2.5L, replacement schedule is 105K (seems like an odd #!) so anywhere between there and 90K is a good time if you are having any other work done on the engine. I have never managed to leave mine in there that long, as I replaced it the first time at 83K when I purchased it, then at 144K (while the engine was out of the car), again at 172K when I had a water pump failure, and again at 193K when I replaced the head gaskets. Even the first time it came out of the engine after 83K of use, the belt looked perfect other than the timing marks being faded on the outside of the belt. That gives me confidence that they can last 100K or more without a problem. In fact, I always keep the previous belt on hand just in case I have a problem and the current belt is damaged somehow. The trick there is just to make sure you mark the belt before you remove it from the sprockets, otherwise getting it back on with proper timing is a crap-shoot. As it is, all of my maintenance and repairs that required belt replacement have happened in a relatively scheduled manner, so I am able to purchase a new belt rather than using the backup. :sick:

mab6 · June 2006

Guys,

I have a big problem.. my car has 104K , I've changed the timming belt 2 mo ago,.. oil every 3 mo, BUT 2 weeks ago the engine start making a lot of noise and it's even worst whe you accelerate I took it to my mecanic, I start the car and 3 seconds later he tels me that the engine needs to be replaced because some bearing inside the engine is broken or something...Is it possible?? What should I do?
Thanks...

xwesx · June 2006

Hmmm... not much to go on here. Do you have any other info such as describing what it sounds like, the conditions surrounding when it started, etc? Also, any performance hits, smoke, check engine light, etc., coupled with the noise? What was the level of the oil when it started?

stevenm1 · June 2006

You definitely should get a second opinion. A stethescope will be needed to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. A sticking valve or bearing that is going out or seizing up in your alternator, water pump, idler pulley or air conditioner compressor will also make a lot of noise. The same goes for the idler pulleys used by the timing belt. Has there been any other change in the engine (i.e. performance, oil consumption, overheating, excess smoke in exhaust, mixing of oil and antifreeze, etc.)?

ebony5 · June 2006

I may be wrong , but I believe it is recommended that the timing belt in the '96 OBW 2.5 be changed at 60,000 miles, and after '96 it jumped to 105K.

mab6 · June 2006

Thanks xwesx & stevenm1!
There is no other cchanges in the engine, besides the fact that the engine runs but w/o power. No smoke or oil consumption, oil mixed with antifreeze(it's not the head gasket)... Today or tomorrow another mecanic is going to take a look at it.. I will let you know!

1mr2 · June 2006

I made my email address visible. If you do not mind emailing direct, that would be great.
I wish these groups had server space like Yahoogroups to post pictures for those logged in to see - oh well I guess that was what I was expecting when I logged on the first time.

Thanks for taking the pics and uploading them.

1MR2

peter_nemo · June 2006

I have the identical problem, where water leaks into my 1999 Subaru Legacy wagon's driver side floor after it rains. Has anyone ever ever found a solution to this problem?

peter_nemo · June 2006

I have the identical problem, where water leaks into my 1999 Subaru Legacy wagon's driver side floor after it rains. Has anyone ever ever found a solution to this problem?

dwt1 · June 2006

Own a 2000 Outback Wagon, 110,260 miles. Diagnosis from Subaru Dealer shop: possible bearing knock, rod knock. Their recommendation: replace short block. Their parts and labor cost estimate: $3700.
Has anyone had this problem? Has anyone had a short block replaced in response to this problem? Is this a problem I can live with, or is it a must repair? This problem does not seem to affect performance, but might it not have ramifications for other engine parts?

Mr_Shiftright · June 2006

You might get a second opinion from an independent Subie shop. A rod or bearing knock is a very loud and startling noise and will result in the destruction of your engine in a short amount of time. A short block is a good way to go but I still wouldn't drive this car, as an engine seizure would be a most unpleasant experience for you, and could destroy the cylinder heads as well....which means MORE than a short block.

The reason I suggest a second opinion is that there should be no "might be" about this diagnosis. If the dealer isn't sure, perhaps it is piston slap or a loose crankshaft pulley or some such, which may not require a short block.

subearu · June 2006

Timing belt tensioner is a possibility too. Even another Subie dealer, a 2nd analysis is needed on this one.

Have you owned the car since new? Oil changes regularly? How's the timing belt tension? At that mileage, it should be changed (check your owner manual for things to do at that mileage). If you change the belt, you should do the tensioner and water pump as well.

-Brian

larrycrowell · June 2006

Agreed. It would be nice to share the pics with everyone. Are you listening, Big Brother?

masteryoda · June 2006

A right blinker on my 98 GT Wagon went crazy today, all of a sudden, as it's began blinking way too fast. At first I thought that maybe one of my bulbs burned out, but I checked them out and they are working. My left blinker is just fine. Any ideas on what could that be?

tkanic · June 2006

You most likely have a bulb burnt out and you are just seeing the parking light filiment glow with the signal. Look again and I suspect that you will see that one direction (the normal speed) will be brighter then the other (fast blinking)

geneob · June 2006

Thanks for the info. The gas mileage doesnt really seem to be suffering, about 23mpg in mixed driving. It just appears on quick or heavy acceleration, that its starving for fuel.

masteryoda · June 2006

tkanic, thanks for the reply. I'll double check again, but what puzzles me is that when I turned on emergency lights on, both blinkers were blinking at the same, normal, speed.

tkanic · June 2006

On other cars I have seen the hazard lights are a seperate relay, I suspect this car has a seperate one also.

masteryoda · June 2006

Could it be a fuse issue?

tkanic · June 2006

I'm not saying it's impossiable, as cars sometimes have wierd stuff, but highly unlikely.

heynow · June 2006

I have a new 2006 outback wagon, auto, base model. I was checking out the car tonight and have a question about the interior. When I put on the headlights everything inside that should illuminate appears to light up except the "set" , "+", and "-" buttons for the clock. Could someone tell me if they are supposed to light up.

Also, the end of the weatherstrip above the right side rear window is not flush against the body (it sticks out a little). Would it be ok to apply some sealant to hold it in?

Thanks for any feedback.

rangner · June 2006

I don't know about the lighting, but as to the weatherstripping, aren't you still under the bumper to bumper warranty? I'd just go in and have the dealer fix it for free. Eric

masteryoda · June 2006

This problem is getting more weird by day. I had my wife pressing the brake pedal and turn on blinking signals and while I saw that the right blinker bulb was not as bright as the left one, it was still blinking. I checked the rear lights and all of them other than license plate right light were on. Could the license plate light cause this??? :confuse:

xwesx · June 2006

Well, if it is not too much trouble, replace that bulb and you will find out! I would think not, but....

tkanic · June 2006

Not weird at all, replace that dim bulb and your 'roo will be

again.

What is happening is that bulb is dual filament and has 2 modes of operating, the signal and hazzards make the bulb glow the brightest, the parking/headlights make it glow on the low setting. Typically if the bright filamaent breaks the power will backfeed through the other filament. I forgot how it was wired to make this so but know that's what is happening.

Also replace the licence plate light as well.

outbike1 · June 2006

heynow -

I too have a recently purchased 06 OBW. The answer to your lighting question is "no" - the "set" , "+", and "-" buttons for the clock do not illuminate (at least they don't on my 06 OBW and my brothers 06 OBW - yes, we each bought one within a few months of each other!

)

I too am also have some right-sided wheather stripping isses - am debating as to whether I want the dealer to "fix" them or not . . .

-Outbike

heynow · June 2006

Thanks for the reply Outbike. I actually stopped off at the dealer on the way home from work to see if the "set" lights illuminate. I sat in a car in the showroom and found out what you stated. Thanks for the verification.

The weatherstripping for me is on the side of the car at the top rear side window. It sticks out a little and is not flush/tight like the other side. I made an appointment with the dealer in a week to have them check it out. Hope this doesn't create other problems. I'm the type of guy that does all the work on my own house. Windows, tear down walls, build walls, headers, ect....I just don't trust others too much to do a really good job. If it's not perfect that ok b/c I did it myself, but for almost $23,000 the weatherstripping should fit nice.

tkanic · June 2006

I had a bit of weatherstripping sticking out a bit. it was easy to just push around the base back into it's track - took all of 1 second. Now I don't know if yours is sticking out the same way, but if it is It's so easy to do and saves so much time to just do it yourself.

stucko · June 2006

I own a 2004 Outback base model 5 speed.

When I get the clutch to and past the engagement point, it gets kind of spongy-stiff and makes a squeaking noise (not a wimpy squeak either, more of a groaning squeak - "Skroiiiink!"). I mainly hear it when I am at a stop and shifting into first or reverse, though I suspect it does it all the time, I just can not hear it over the engine and road noise. Also, this problem appears only after it has been driven about 15 minutes... so when I get in the car in the AM, it is nice and quiet.

It is not coming from the pedal assembly, sounds like it is coming from the slave cylinder (which I believe is the little black do-hicky mounted on top of the tranny, under that big black box do-hicky). I had my GF wang on the pedal while I hunted for the source of the sound under the hood (so obviously it does it if the car is running or not).

Cant say when this started as I just got the car used (didnt do it on the test drive). It has 40K miles.

Otherwise, the car shifts just fine. No slippage, grinding, lurching, cant find gears, anything like that. It is just a loud annoying noise that I have never heard on any of the 4 other 5 speeds I have owned.

So: question is, what if anything can be done about it? How serious is this?

ateixeira · June 2006

On my Miata, which is a hydraulic system (is yours also?), my clutch slave was worn out and I had to swap it out. The brake fluid (that's what Mazda uses) was contaminated, too. I bought a clutch slave rebuild kit and bled the whole system.

For yours, if it uses brake fluid, I would consider bleeding the system first, to see if that helps. Ask someone who has done this, because I'm not sure if Subies are the same.

-juice

ozman62 · June 2006

Yes, Subies do have a hydraulic clutch system. I recently replaced the slave cylinder on my Forester ('98) and it was really easy. I'm guessing that your noise is from maybe a little bit of dirt or corrosion between the shaft of the slave cylinder and the clutch actuator lever. Try putting a little bit of spray-on lube in there and see if it helps out. I think if your slave cylinder was going bad, or your clutch hydraulic system needed to be bled it would be really obvious i.e. 'soft' clutch, clutch not coming back up or other drivability problems.
Hope this helps, stucko
Regards,
Owen

ateixeira · June 2006

Check the clutch fluid level, too. A low level was my first warning sign of a bad slave cylinder.

-juice

markk1 · June 2006

Recently my 2000 Outback 86k miles started giving off an odd sound from under the car approximately the back of the engine compartment. The sound almost sounds like bee buzzing or piece of paper stuck in a fan. (a high pitched vibration). It seems to occur the most when the is car cold and Im pressing the gas pedal (accelerating). At first it only occurred accelerating, now it occurs also whenever the engine is on, but is louder when accelerating. At above 30mph or so i do not hear it. In addition it seems to fade and sometimes go away after several miles of driving.

I dont see anything loose under the car and off hand it does not sound like an exhaust system problem. I thought at first maybe the speedometer cable but it now makes the sound when stopped also. Ill probably take it in soon but am tied up for a week or two and assume it is nothing urgent. Any ideas? Anyone had anything like this?

zman3 · June 2006

I know you said it does not sound like an exhaust problem but to me the symptoms sound like the exhaust heat shield. Before I had the dealer re-weld it, mine would rattle like crazy until the vehicle warmed up.

xwesx · June 2006

I was thinking the same thing - a heat shield.

mozzie · June 2006

I've owned my car since 2000. Love it. It has 147,000 miles on it. I've fixed an oil leak back in 2002 and no problems since. In 2001 on a road trip I had to have the alternator replaced when it went out in the middle of BFE Illinois.

2 weeks ago, the alternator went out again! The mechanic said he saw that there had been a recall on the original alternator in 2000. Wish I'd have known that!

Now for my question related to that: is it normal for a car to go through that many alternators?

Second round. (Yes I still love the car!)

The car feels like it pulls really hard when I've ran the A/C for 15 min+ on super hot days. Sometimes I have to just turn it off because it feels like it's going to kill the poor thing! It makes a clicking sound and the car has a "I think I can, I think I can!" attitude. I've taken it into 3 different places who say there's nothing wrong with it. (They drive it around the block and of course - nothing!) It doesn't need to be recharged. Any ideas what I can have them look at?

Third and final question, how hard is it to fix an antenna? I only get the 3 most powerful stations in the area come in even when I replaced the radio. If I go 3 miles outside town, I lose those 3 even. The CD player works fine though!

Thanks for any help!

mozzie · June 2006

forgot to add: I'm female, so if there's any maintenance that should be done, can you let me know that as well? Thanks!

tkanic · June 2006

I don't know what you mean that it pulls really hard (or whatever terms you used - can't see it now). Please try to be more descriptive.

mozzie · June 2006

Kinda like what you'd expect a vehicle to do coming up a steep incline (I think I can, I think I can) - although I'm on flat ground, not a hill.

ateixeira · June 2006

The A/C compressor draws a lot of power from the engine, with smaller engines you just notice it more. My Miata has what I call "air brakes", you turn on the A/C and it literally slows the car down. The tiny 1.6l engine struggles to keep up.

I think this is normal. With 147k miles on the clock the engine probably isn't making the same power it did when it was brand new. Don't feel bad, my Miata has just 62k miles!

Alternator - well the first one was bad, the 2nd lasted years. That's not too bad. Make sure the installer puts the right tension on the drive belt.

-juice

Antennae - hmm, it would seem that this would be on or off, not broken. Maybe it disconnected from the back of the radio? Though you might not get any signal at all if that were the case. You can get a cheap replacement at WalMart but you have to access the rear of the stereo to plug it in.

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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