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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Agreed. The process is not too bad, but you do need to have a u-joint in the mix. I have found the best way is to place the socket on a 3" extension, then attach the u-joint, then another 6" extension, followed by the ratchet. In 10 years' time, there are probably a few changes in there, but all in all the layout looked quite similar to me.

    Good luck - it is a pain to do, but less so than the hit taken by the wallet to have someone else do it. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Well brake fluid is generally yellow, which if it is would be disturbing because it shouldn't be there (ie leaking). Unless it's some kind of new caliper grease I'm not aware of, I'd clean it off with a rag and see if any more appears.

    If so, I'd take it in to the dealer and have them fix it under warranty. Actually they should have taken care of it in the first place during the pre-delivery inspection.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm usually here offering answers, but this time I have a question.

    Anyone ever change the rear brake pads on an '01 Outback? The bolts that hold the caliper in place seem extremely difficult to access due to all the suspension components in the way.

    I tried to get the sway bar end links out of the way but could not get *that* bolt all the way loose, later I could not get it firmly tight! Ugh.

    That round black thing, is that a rubber plug on the one side of the end links? i.e. do you need tools on both sides to get it tight?

    This is on my dad's OB.

    -juice
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    Thanks larrycrowell, just completed it and it was helpful getting your post before I decided to do it.

    It wasn't all that bad, but the rear 2 are a PITA.

    For the record, I used some combos of 6 in, 3 in and a flex joint 3 in socket. The flex joint is more like a CV joint then a universal joint but a U joint probabally would have worked too.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Oh, I messed this up. It is socket, U-joint, 3", 6", ratchet.

    A 2nd joint between the 3" and 6" might be nice, too! Glad to hear you got it - there will be no disagreement on this thread about your "PITA" assessment, tkanic! :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    I have a 2000 outback wagon but I assume the mechanics are the same. IIRC, to change the pads, you don't need to completely remove the caliper. I think you just take out the slider bolts, swap out the pads and grease & lube the sliders and bolt it up again.

    The only time you have to take out the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the hub are when you're changing rotors or checking parking brakes or something like that. If you're checking parking brakes I would recommend against that (from personal experience), I wouldn't mess with the sway bar too much and for heavens' sake don't overtighten it'll break the bolt. (also from personal experience) :sick:

    So the best way to remove the bolts are to have a long ratchet extension and reach behind the hub and there should be a hole in the hub just for the purpose of getting a socket in there to get at the bolt. IIRC there is no nut to tighten against; just the bolt. Take out both bolts and voila the whole caliper comes off.

    Eric
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Anybody ever try those steel braided cable ratchet attachments that you can turn whatever direction you need?
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    Update: The non-Subaru parts supply house won't ship their $73 motor to Canada. So I contacted my local dealership who wants $377 for the motor, without installation. Even a Subaru dealership in WA only charges $165. Why is it that we Canucks get ripped off by Subaru? Parts at double the price and no extended HG warranty either! :mad:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That sure does sound a whole lot easier, Eric. I'll try that out.

    The instructions I refered to were for a Legacy and an upgrade brake kit at that. Harder than the job needs to be!

    The sway bar end links - do you need tools on both sides to get it tight again? Looks like one side has some sort of rubber boot covering it? Sound familiar?

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Ugh. All for a motor?! I call the shipping prejudice Alaskans receive from the lower 48 the "3rd class citizen fee." So, what about Canadians? Is it the "piss on the northern neighbor" exclusion? Sheesh.

    I say have them ship it to a friend's address in the US and then ask the friend to re-route it to you. A PITA for sure, but better than the bite your wallet would take from a $73 part costing you $377.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    Again with the 05 i OB

    This happened a few times. When I press the button for the driver's side window nothing happens. After a few tries it does what it is suppose to do.

    The first time this happened I thought it make have been some lockout botton preventing it, or in other words I was nto sure it was a actuall problem. Today it happened again, the rear 2 windows worked, the front 2 did not, for about 20 seconds.

    Also if I recall corectly one time it happened all 4 did not work. So I am leaning towards the switch.

    Any advice on this one, what to look for, apx cost, how to get to the switch, additional tests?

    Thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Out of curiosity, does this happen with the window down, up, both, does not matter? I'd say the switch for sure - '05.... warranty item. I would not even concern yourself with it other than how long the dealership will keep it. :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    Warranty was up a while back, I got just over 60K miles on her.

    It has only happened so far when the windows were fully up, which is my normal mode of travel, only opening them for tolls, drivethru's, checking the mailbox, and to talk to friends. So when I open them it hasn't been opened for a while, but when I close them it is sually very shortly after opening it.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I had switch problems with my 2000. The dealer actually had the part in stock!

    I thought it was around $85. Try 1stsubaruparts.com. They have a very thorough online catalog.

    Jim
  • gses253gses253 Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    I am very new with this so if you could just bear with me. I have 3 problems that i am so frustrated with that makes me to never want to be a subaru owner again

    1. I have a 99 subaru OBW that has 137,500 + miles and have been hearing this rattle when i have been driving the car for over 15 miles. I think it is the Heat sheila on the exhaust system. Can this be tightend or replaced?

    2. I have been having this oil leak ( actually a few couple drips a day on the garage floor) Can this be from the head gaskets? My husband cleaned the area on the engine and he said it looks like the leak is come from the top of what he is looking at.

    3. and last, everytime my husband changes the oil about 300 miles later my check engine like comes one. We check the oil and it shows it to be filled perfectly. the last time (3 months ago and i travel over 60 miles a day) my dad added close to another quart after 2 days the light went out and didn't; return until this most recent oil change.

    I know I am asking for a lot of information in this first post but anything anyone can help me with will be great. I am trying to make this care last until may of 2007 but i am about ready to take my husbands double barrel shotgun to it. :sick:
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    A) I had a rattle from underneath my '96 OBW and it was merely the clamp on the cat. shield which I had replaced and the sound went away.
    B)From my experience the oil dip stick on Subarus is extremely difficult to read;the conditions (flat surface etc.) must be perfect. I would be surprised if you did not have to add oil between changes to an 8 year old car with 137k on it. Good luck.
  • gses253gses253 Member Posts: 2
    thanks ebony5,

    i am keeping notes so we can try some of these things ourselves instead of paying out the labor to an garage
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hang in there, 137k is a lot of miles. By that age a lot of cars would be dead already.

    1. Probably a loose heat shield, likely something on the exhaust. If your hubby has ramps have him inspect the exhaust (wait 'til it cools or wear gloves). The exhaust on our Mazda 626 rusted apart far before 137k miles.

    2. Could be head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, or front main seal (O-ring). You can re-torque the bolts to try to seal it but keep an eye on that.

    3. I don't think the check-engine light has anything to do with the oil. I bet it's worn out spark plug wires, or something like that. Fouled plugs. Or even a loose gas cap. Try to get the codes read, I bought an ODBII scan tool for under $100. Sears has them, or any auto parts store.

    -juice
  • homefry1040homefry1040 Member Posts: 6
    We own a 2005 Outback XT Wagon…24K miles. We are experiencing some “strange” occurrences electrically …the trip odometer alternates from showing the mileage to flashing ILL.5 (don’t tell me that the car says it’s sick!)

    I’ve noticed that the lighting for both the radio and heating system will flicker at the same time. This also happened during the first 5K of owning the car, however, we brought into the dealer…and get the response” we can’t duplicate the issue, therefore we can’t fix it”

    Any ideas or topics I should discuss with the service advisor before I make the dealer appointment???

    Thanks in advance...
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    there is a roller to the left of steering column that controls the brightnes of instrument panel. If you change the brightnes of the display it will change ILL.6, ILL.7 or down 5 4 etc.

    Krzys
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I thought it was the radio playing hip-hop music and rating how "ill" the music was. ;)

    -juice
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    Loose heat shield I've had twice on my 00 OB. Hard to locate (sometime banging the exhaust with a wrench will make it vibrate) but cheap to fix.

    Can't help with the oil leak, never had one.

    I agree with Juice, I doubt the CEL has anything to do with oil. Usually emissions related which could be fuel, ignition, sensors, etc. You need to get the code read and be aware that some scanners used by non-Subaru places (and the ones you can buy yourself) will not necessarily read all the Subaru-specific codes. And I don't recommend replacing parts based on codes alone...this can get expensive without fixing the problem. Sometimes you need experienced help to interpret codes.
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    Another update. Got one from a wreckers for half the price of new, or to look at it another way the same price as new in the US. Unfortunately the only "friend" I have in the US is a golf-playing moneybags cousin in an Ohio castle, who I'm sure won't get involved in my penny-pinching, do-it-yourself, oil-stained, car-fixing activities. The delay would be a PITA too, it's summer and I want my windows open!
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    Sounds like the switch to me too. All four switches are on the same printed circuit board which also has electronics for the window lock, the auto-down function, and the door locks, so you'd have to replace the whole lot in one go.

    The switch panel will just pry out. If it's like my 00 you'll find two modules screwed onto the panel; one for the windows and door locks and another for the mirrors. Just replace the window module. Don't bother to pry the back off the module in the hope of fixing the switch, all you see is the PCB which can't be removed. Ask me how I know.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    :surprise: Wow... I thought I put a lot of miles on mine! My driver window will get "stuck" down if I use the auto-down feature and let it go all the way to the bottom of the track, that is why I asked.

    Hopefully it is the switch and not a circuit board. Oh, well, looking at goosegog's post, it really does not matter! :blush:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • homefry1040homefry1040 Member Posts: 6
    shouldn't be happening as I'm driving 60mph by itself...
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    rubbing it with knee, hand or something?

    Krzys
  • homefry1040homefry1040 Member Posts: 6
    yes---the console lights flicker at the same time, and I "thought" the CD skipped, but I was concentrating on other times (like driving!)

    I'm scheduling the appt today, not confident that it will be fixed by the dealer.
  • bssgrlbssgrl Member Posts: 4
    I just had my transmission fluid & oil changed and but I noticed that the warning light for "Oil at Temperature" is flashing when I start my car. I read in the manual that I should contact my dealership because it may have something to do with the "control system?" I guess what I am trying to access is, is this just a dummy light flashing to get you to go in and get it serviced and charged out the ying yang for labor or because I just had the oil & trannie fluids serviced that I can ignore this.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would not ignore a blinking light, usually that's an indication to pull over and call a tow truck. A solid light is a warning, blinking is severe.

    -juice
  • stevecarstevecar Member Posts: 148
    I had head gasket replaced a few months ago on forrester at 44k miles after sealant did not work. The question is do I keep car past extended warranty or trade in before warranty expires just in case.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Only you can answer that question. It depends on your level of comfort - your peace of mind.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • bssgrlbssgrl Member Posts: 4
    It justs blinks when I start the car then it stops, it lasts maybe a 1/4-1/2 minute total
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I'd check three things:

    1) make sure the oil in the engine is at the correct level (dipstick near front of engine)
    2) assuming you have an automatic transmission, the tranny fluid is reddish in color and is at the proper level (dipstick driver side)
    3) there is gear oil in the front diffy. (dipstick passenger side) again assuming auto tranny

    If all three are fine, I wouldn't worry about the light. You could also call and ask a dealer why it's happening.

    HTH,

    Jim
  • bssgrlbssgrl Member Posts: 4
    OK, I did check the oil today, because I thought maybe that might have somethig to do with it, but it's fine, the tranny fluid was just changed 3 days ago, so I know that's ok, so I will look into

    ) there is gear oil in the front diffy. (dipstick passenger side) again assuming auto tranny>

    and yes it is an auto tranny.

    I figure at this point if everything is ok, that it's a dummy light, but if all fluids are ok I'll just give them a call as well just to double check it.

    Thanx for the help, I really appreciate it!!
  • bssgrlbssgrl Member Posts: 4
    :) well we double checked everything and it was ok, then my fiance thought that maybe if we unconnected the battery and reconnected it, that maybe it would reset itself, and guess what....it did!!!
    Thanx for all of your help :)
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    I just installed an aftermarket trailer hitch on my 2006 Outback 2.5i. All went fine until I tried to install the aftermarket wiring harness (Reese No. 15370). The problem is that Reese's installation instruction sheet is incorrect. It says that the vehicle wiring plug is installed behind an access panel by one of the taillight assemblies. I have completely removed both assemblies - no plug. I have looked all over the back of the vehicle inside and outside- still no plug.

    I would appreciate hearing from anyone who knows where Subaru hid this little guy. It would be a plastic connector about 1/2-inch square with six female connections.
  • larrycrowelllarrycrowell Member Posts: 33
    Have faith bro. I have a 2005 OBXT and installed about the same as you. The Subaru connector is well hidden inside the left rear access panel, where the 12V accessory power socket is located. You will really have to root around in there to find it -- its just kind of in there flopping around. The connector has its own 12V circuit for trailer lights; you might have to install the fuse for that circuit -- I can't remember if I had to or not. I used a JCWhitney Euro-to-USA trailer light converter which does power the trailer lights separately. I don't know about your Reese 15370. I would not recommend powering your trailer lights from the car light circuit; you might overload and with one trailer wiring fault you've lost your car lights.

    For some reason this question keeps coming up. Wonder why Subaru chose to hide this thing so well? Even my dealer didn't know where it was.
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    Mr. Crowell, thank you for the advice. I'll intensify my hunt for it tomorrow now that I have some guidance where to look. The Reese harness does have "battery" as one of the input wires, and the spec sheet says that each circuit is rated for 4 amps. The inside fuse box diagram shows one fuse as "trailer power", so I guess that is the fuse for the trailer lights.

    I am curious...how much weight have you towed? The owners manual is adamant that towing more than 1000 lbs requires trailer brakes. What is your experience?

    Thank you again for the information on oil changes. All went well. I was able to tighten the filter completely by hand. The manual showed that an access panel had to be removed to reach the oil filter, but Subaru must have eliminated it for 2006.

    Best regards.
  • larrycrowelllarrycrowell Member Posts: 33
    Then you should be in good shape with the Reese harness. I'm sure that it will mate up correctly with the Subaru connector. I've towed several thousand pounds (utility trailer loaded, 18' boat) without trailer brakes. But all of this is about driving carefully and not doing dumb things. Remember that you still have only your 3000 lbs. of car weight for braking traction. Add a 3000 lb. trailer (without brakes) and it will take you at least twice as far to stop. Drive slowly, drive carefully, and don't get yourself into situations where sudden braking might be required (i.e. tailgating, running yellow lights, etc.) You're not going to wear out your brakes, just longer stopping distance. And maintain a good trailer tongue weight (as much as you can lift). Do not let that tongue weight get too low or you will go unstable and have one whee of a time. Also I've found that it helps to add something (flags?) to the trailer, visible to you the driver, to help remind yourself that you have a trailer back there. It is very easy to forget about it -- then trouble happens.
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    I have a manual 00 OB 2.5L. I have towed a tent trailer weighing about 1200 lbs for 5 years. No brakes and no problems provided one is sensible as Mr Crowell advises. The tow limit for the manual is 1000 lbs but for the auto it is 2000 lbs. I presume the clutch is considered a weak point by Subaru (with reason!).

    But regarding trailer brakes, my new 07 tent trailer has electric brakes although it is scarcely heavier than the old one. Local state/provincial regulations vary and mandate trailer brakes at various weights, but it is usually between 1000 lbs and 2000 lbs. In a panic stop you really want trailer brakes! And if you have them go for an inertia controller such as Prodigy, not the cheaper ramping ones. Search the internet for more details.
  • ckbarlowckbarlow Member Posts: 4
    The Check Engine Light on my wagon just came on last night, 3 days before a major vacation drive. My mechanic, whom I trust, got the code today but couldn't determine the problem definitively. Something to do with the idling speed, which I noticed was higher than normal right after the light came on. The part needed to fix that isn't available in town right now, and the mechanic says it's nothing to worry about on my trip.

    Anyone have experience with this? Should I worry about it?
    Thanks very much.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Hmm, could be a number of things. Likely vacuum-related. Maybe the EGR? How high was it idling? If it was above 1200, then you might toss the tranny in N when you get close to stopping as to reduce wear on the vehicle and stopping resistance, but you will probably be okay for the trip. Drive it quite a bit locally these next couple of days and just see how it responds. If you feel comfortable with that, make the trip and fix it on the flip side.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ckbarlowckbarlow Member Posts: 4
    At the first stop sign after starting it (1.5 blocks, about), it idled for a bit at above 1 on the dial. If that's x1000 RPM, then I'd say I didn't look closely enough to see which subdivision between 1 & 2. Just a little above 1.
    So you're saying not only should I avoid downshifting approaching stops, as is always my habit (I thought a good habit, when done well, to save the brakes...), but actually shift to Neutral? Are you concerned about wear on the transmission or wear on the engine?
    Frankly I normally commute by bicycle or scooter, but I'll be a reluctant cage pilot for the next 2 days as you've advised and see how it behaves. (I do love this car, as cars go.)
    Thank you very much. Anything else you think of, please don't hesitate.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Oh, sorry.... I was thinking an A/T rather than M/T. I downshift with MT as well and would not recommend you do anything different. The only likely change would be how much each downshift will assist in slowing the vehicle, so you might need to notch up your shift points if you use the engine to help brake at all.

    With the A/T, idling above 1200 or so makes the car really want to bolt off when the brake is released. My car's idle responsiveness is a little iffy on occasion, so sometimes it will be at 1400-1500 RPM approaching a stop. I toss in in neutral to wait out the light and the engine usually drops back down to normal idle (650 IIRC)once the shifter is in neutral.

    If it would save you from a cage, then perhaps do the car testing for an idle hour or two in the late evening.... ?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ckbarlowckbarlow Member Posts: 4
    LOL.. Thanks for that last bit of advice.
    What it comes down to is, if I leave this car at a trailhead in the middle of nowhere for 5 days and emerge exhausted to find that it doesn't start because this repair didn't happen, I'm going to be screwed. As will my traveling companions. Because AAA means nothing where we're going to be. So I really just need to understand how serious this is, could it wreck a trip that we've looked forward to since April... see where I'm at?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Oy. I see. Peace of mind means a lot, for sure. I know because I deal with it daily with my car! Hahaha.

    I would ask your mechanic about his suspicion of the problem and the parts he things would resolve it. That may help one of us here be able to better say whether the problem could lead to something more serious, like a no-start.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ckbarlowckbarlow Member Posts: 4
    A solenoid sensor or something related to how it's idling.
    I do trust this shop, have for years, and he said if it were his car, he'd take it. He said that there are some designs of this part that actually would affect start-up, but this is not that type. (The difference is in-line vs. not in-line, but I don't remember which he said mine was -- but perhaps that's a clue to know what part he's talking about.)
  • gof4gof4 Member Posts: 22
    My '01 LL Bean wagon vibrates badly between 65-70 mph. I just had them road force balanced by a shop that just does alignments & frame work. Said they were not out too much, however even after the balancing the tech took it for a road test & still detected a wheel vibration(but not as bad as before.) He said that the rotors could be the culprit. The front rotors are the originals & have been turned twice. My car has a little over 60,000 miles. The tires were replaced with Bridgestone Turanzas & still have plenty of tread.
    I do notice a slight pulsation in the brake pedal when they are applied. Has anyone had a similar problem & if so how was it corrected?

    Thanks, Bob :confuse:
  • richz3richz3 Member Posts: 3
    I've had a persistent hesitation since about 1000 mi (now 14K) on an 05 3.0VDC automatic especially between 2nd and 3rd gears shift and on turning corners and it sends my head toward the windshield but nobody "can replicate" even though the service technician is sitting right next to me when it happens.(He says this is normal behavior!) Still working on this one. However, it was fixed for a while when I had the transmission module reprogrammed at the recall for the 05.
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