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All those things affect the spark.
The other issue is fuel - so fuel filter, too. Beyond that it gets more complicated and I'd defer to a good mechanic.
-juice
-juice
You have a tough one there, but much of it makes sense given the order in which the events occured. It could all stem from an evap system failure, so that is what I would go after first. It is a complex system, so this is just one possible senario:
The evap system captures excessive vapors in the tank, stores them in the charcoal canister, then routes them to the intake manifold. It can only hold so much, and is only supposed vent to the intake at certain times, otherwise it will screw up the mixture. The vent that leads into the canister is typically located up in the filler neck, which is one reason why you should not overfill your tank. Flooding the canister can cause multiple valve failures. Or maybe it has some other problems unrelated to something you did....
So lets consider an evap system malfunction as the trigger issue. It now dumps fuel into the intake at the wrong time. The oxygen sensor sees too much fuel, and plays havoc with the mixture. The cat cannot compensate, so the system flags the cat as bad. Maybe it now is, or again it could be just an instrumentation error.
You replace the cat, but do not address the primary cause. Fuel system pressures, particularly in the tank itself vary wildly. Sediment breaks loose from the walls, and either clogs the fuel filter, or get thru, partially clogging fuel injectors. Lean mixture gives the misfire code, due to uneven cylinder firing in two of four (uneven power output), and triggers the lean mix indication as the oxygen sensor has no clue what the heck is going on, or how to compensate.
Solution - in this order: Get professional help for the evap system. I doubt many could tackle this one. Then change the fuel filter. Clear the codes and see what shows up now. Consider getting an injector cleaning. You might have to end up changing one or more. If you cooked them, you might end up changing the O2 sensor, and the cat again.
Steve
Have a 07 that I would like to put some Hella horns on. It looks like I need to REMOVE the bumper facia to get at them.
Anyone shed some light on this......comments are helpful....thanks.
-mike
Now all that part is easy...its the getting to the OEM horns as a starting point that is currently my problem. I have pulled the grill and the front part of the air intake....NADA horns......They are apparently down under everything somewhere behind the fog lights. I really am reluctant to pull the bumper facia on this brand new 07 Outback Ltd for fear of messing something up.
-mike
By the by...I do appreciate your inputs . As a long time member I have always respected your knowledge of Subes....Thanks.
-mike
-Mike
Ken
Thanks again !
-mike
Suddenly we are all institutionalized! :P
I wish some of these guys would come back and tell us how it worked out.
Steve
2) There is an adjustable lumbar on my '02 Outback, but I don't think they put it on the base Legacy models. Unfortunately, it was far too low and hit me closer to the hip rather than my lumbar region, requiring some "re-engineering" on my part. There is a hard panel on the back of the seat. Slide it straight up about a half inch and pop the bottom of the board outward, then slide it down to release the top. There should be just enough fabric at the bottom to allow this. Once inside, you might be able to modify the padding, cross bracing, etc.
3) Wes can probably answer the question of a higher mileage gen 1 OBW.
Steve
It seems temperature might have some effect. When it's very cold it does seem to happen as bad. But once the car is warmed up it happens.
Any information would be help full, so I don't go to a shop "blind".
I have a 17' Old Town canoe I want to carry on my 06 OBW. I understand that use of the standard roof rack isn't recommended. Anyone use Thule or Yakima gear with something called a Maine roller to load and support a canoe? Being old.........or near old, I can't whip the canoe on top of the car like I used to and need some help.
Pastor Steve
-mike
-juice
Higher mileage?! Okay, maybe my perspective is a bit skewed.....
Fordwrench, it really depends on where you live. Here (Fairbanks, AK), in "good" condition, I would say it is probably worth $4,000 as a private party sale. But, I have seen them sell for MUCH cheaper (closer to $2000) in other markets, so again, it really depends on your area. I have also noticed that some places (northeast in particular), the metal cladding in the engine compartment tends to rust. I had 220,000 on mine and, with most of its years spent in Anchorage and Fairbanks, the only place there was any rust was on the top edges of the battery anchor - and I mean that was it. I mention that because if those parts are rusting, it is likely that surface rust is developing in other places on the car...
The roof rack supports (side bars) indicate that one should not exceed 100# total load, but I will admit that I have done this a time or two. *cough* Okay, so I did it every single time I loaded it, which was probably a dozen or more times a year.
I would, personally, tape a pair of skid pads onto each of the factory "aero" crossbars - perhaps old terry cloth towels, etc, then load the boat from the rear of the car and slide it forward to a point of balance on the cross bars. Then I would secure it fore and aft with ropes laced through the recovery anchors on the underside of the front of the car (there is one on each side of the front, IIRC, and one in the back, located centrally) - use them all. If the boat does not feel secure enough to you at that point, you could also tether it from the bow back to the front of each side rail, and (again, if necessary) the same on the back.
Once it does engage, it shifts thru the gears OK? The problem might be sticky components in the valve body. With time, heat breaks down the transmission fluid, and gum deposits form. There are many small parts and orifices in the valve body that direct which clutches to engage. If they stick, revving the engine might raise fluid pressures to the point where they break free and move.
The best way would be to remove the assembly, inspect, and properly clean it. Sometimes a fluid change with solvent flush can help. Find a shop that has a machine with a solvent cycle, and instruct them to work the shifter so that it gets to where it is needed. It the performance improves, drain and refill the tranny a week or two later to flush out whatever has become loose so that it does not find its way back there again.
Steve
I bought my 2000 Outback about six months ago from a dealer in South Jersey. The car had 56K and it ran nicely. After a few months I started noticing the symptoms you described and started doing some research. If you look at some of these discussion boards, you'll find MANY of us have the same problem with the trans. Mine finally culminated with the trans dying after 6 months and 6K miles. I had read where Subaru charges $4K to replace it if it is out of warranty like mine. I had it towed to a Subaru dealer (not where I bought it) and they diagnosed that the trans seals were shot and they would either charge me $2K to rebuild it or, $4K for a new one from Subaru. I then sat down and wrote a polite letter to Subaru of N.A. describing my plight and how I felt that this constituted a design flaw as well as a safety issue. I also mentioned that I had found MANY other people such as yourself, with the same problem. Long story shortened, Subaru responded very quickly and very nicely, by offering to have my original dealer replace the trans with a new unit from Subaru for $1K. I've had the car back now for about a month and it shifts smoothly, with no hint of hesitation or jumping into gear from reverse to drive. I STRONGLY urge you and anyone else with this problem to write to Subaru and tell them that you need their help, before you have an accident as a result of their negligence.
I still do recommend that you strap it down with ropes on either end, as this will hold the boat most stable (versus strapping it across the boat and only to the roof rack assembly or using bungee style straps) when those highway-speed winds start hitting it. Inverted canoes have a huge air space there to collect that forced air and they will expose weaknesses in the securing method real quick!
80# is safe for the rack, even strapped down (i.e., more downward pressure on the system). If you need to rest the bow of the boat on the back of the car while you reposition and work it up onto that Maine roller, put a towel on top of the lift gate and a piece of soft foam on top of that. Then, when you rest the boat on the foam, it will slide effortlessly (and safely!) across the roof until you can work it onto the roller.
The new aero cross bars will work, but they are actually meant for clamping accessories rather than direct usage.
The Outback also has 2 horns ..buried down under the snorkus....got to them today and have access to the wiring which is all I need to put in some Hellas.
Mike gave me another option which allows the use of the OEM horns + the Helas.....I'm undecided at this point...but will decide manyana with the actual install.
Also, any ideas on what to do with a useless car? Can't really sell it and the charitable donation tax break has become less appealing. It's a second car we don't use much so I'm not in a rush.
Been looking at an 04 Forrester XT and was wondering if they are reliable. Consumer Reports likes the Forrester but does not break out the turbo.
Thanks.
-mike
Since the horn wiring is easily accessible a plan might be to cut the horn wires....add some connectors then wire as per Hella instructions....will set it up so I could return to OEM with a simple plug in set up.
Note that I've already mounted the Hellas behind the grill and everything looks pretty good.....plan on doing the wiring tomorrow.... have located a good place for the new relay and also a good ground.....so I'm on track just need to make a couple of final decisions......again my thanks for your inputs....I respect your skills.
If the starter "clicks" but does not crank the engine, then it might just be a bad solenoid. One way to get around this (temporarily) is to have someone "tap" on the starter with a hammer, wrench, etc., while you hold the key in the "start" position. Sometimes that will let the solenoid engage and the car will start right up. Tapping prior to trying to start may also help. This problem, however, is less/non responsive to jump starts, so I am not leaning toward this as the issue.
-mike
Steve
The Supertones were added behind the grille after installing the Stebel Nautilus air horns behind the fender.
-Dave
-mike
-juice
Unless the rest of it is in terrible shape, that is.
-juice
IMs been blocked ecept for the previledged few
That's why you don't see me on.
-Dave