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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Any OBD2 scanner should work on any vehicle 1996 or later. Its a federalized requirement, they all have the same plug with in 15" of the steering wheel.

    Some vehicles have OEM specific codes that aren't part of the federally required message set. Not all scanners will read these codes. Sometimes there are software upgrades or modules you can connect to pull these codes out of vehicles.
  • jozsijozsi Member Posts: 2
    I had my 2001 subaru outback vdc in for service at my local subaru dealer yesterday. The tires were rotated and I began hearing a thumping noise this morning. I checked the tires and the lugs on the left front tire could be tightened by hand, so i tightened them with my tire iron and went to a tire place. They told me all my tires needed tightening which they did, but they told me to take the car back to the dealer and have the lugs checked out. I am a woman driver and need to know what to look for to make sure no damage was done Should I take pictures when the tires are off? I have always had this car serviced routinely at this dealer. Would you switch dealers over this? Thank you for any comments.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well it means a few things:

    1) They don't have techs who are too swift

    2) More importantly, they don't road test your car after touching it. This shows a lack of attention to detail.

    You should have the studs and lugs checked at the dealer or somewhere, if you drove it with the loose nuts, you could have buggered up the threads on the studs.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • jozsijozsi Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your response. The dealer told me to bring it back, but should I get it in writing that there is no damage. This is my first subaru and I have had no problems in 7 years. Should I ask to see the studs and would I be able to tell if they are messed up by looking at them?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    On the rusty stud at the top you can see how the grooves are not "sharp" and one or two are actually crooked. If your studs were damaged, these grooves would look even worse, like they were flattened by a hammer.

    The lower stud shows you how the grooves should be clean and knife-sharp.

    image
  • dave1620dave1620 Member Posts: 10
    ...and the code is P0328 - knock sensor 1. :confuse: There are no other codes. The CEL has been coming on for a while and then going off for a while. What would cause this CEL and code? The car is due for a 60k service.

    2001 Legacy GT wagon 2.5

    Thanx---------Dave.......
  • subaru98lmtdsubaru98lmtd Member Posts: 1
    I am picking up a 1998 Legacy Outback from a private seller in CT. It has a blown engine which I have found a replacement for and need to tow it home for repairs. I have heard that I can tow it in the 2 wheel down position, if, and only if I disconnect the driveshaft. I have no experience with this...Can this be accomplished relatively painlessly? Would anyone be able to explain the process?
    Sincerely....Troy
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it's a manual transmission 1998 model, you can just tow it. If it's an automatic, you cannot tow it under any circumstances without installing a pump for the transmission or some kind of "axle-free" devices front and rear.

    http://www.subaru.com/owners/carcaretips/index.jsp?pageid=towing&navid=TOWING_A_- SUBARU
  • gschmidt01gschmidt01 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if you can purchase complete new or rebuilt strut/spring assemblies for ease of replacement as opposed to each individual part?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You mean pre-assembled? Not that I know of. If you go with coil-overs you can get a single unit, but they are $1500+ It's actually not a difficult job. We've replaced 200-300 sets of struts/springs in the impreza w/o compressors and w/o air tools. Our record is 27 min. :)

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You can't tow an MT w/o disconnecting the axle on any subie. Also you probably can't tow it legally w/o brakes anyway. My suggestion is to get a flatbed trailer to tow it with.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If it's a manual transmission 1998 model, you can just tow it.

    Only with all 4 on the ground. No subie (other than FWD) can be towed with only 2 wheels on the ground.

    -mike
  • gschmidt01gschmidt01 Member Posts: 2
    How do you get by w/o a spring compressor?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    No need on the subies springs. The springs are almost at the end of their spread when you take em out of the car. I lean on the top while a partner takes the nut off with an impact gun. Then I slowly let up, not a whole lot of compression left in em.

    :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep, flat tow with all 4 wheels on the ground if it has the MT5 with the viscous coupling.
  • bufwxguybufwxguy Member Posts: 10
    As posted earlier, I've got the head gasket leak. I've had Subaru add the coolant conditioner which seems to have slowed the leak significantly for the time being. However, from previous posts by others the head gasket will finally retire itself for good sooner or later after the conditioner is added. What has been others experience - was it catastrophic failure or just a return to the increasing rate of having to fill the coolant reservoir? Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The key is to not let the block overheat badly because it's alloy and you really don't want it to warp where it meets the heads. If it does it won't ever seal up properly.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,758
    The knock sensor adjusts the engine's timing. If that sensor is not providing feedback, the engine will likely run rough at times and ping considerably under load. I am not sure what all can trigger the code, but when I had a knock sensor code, replacing the sensor really did clear up the problem.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dave1620dave1620 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks xwesx--the problem is that I have no problem. The car runs great--not rough, and no pinging. It ran rough a few months ago right before the battery died one night, but that's it.

    Dave......
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,758
    Have you tried to clear the codes from the computer and waiting to see if it returns? It might be some sort of a glitch (bad connection, out of range, etc) that is only momentary, but long enough to trip a code in the ECU.

    How is your fuel economy? If the car is running well, I would just keep the reader handy to check codes when the CEL illuminates. That way you know if something different goes wrong rather than just assuming it is the same old story.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dave1620dave1620 Member Posts: 10
    Fuel economy is normal. I haven't cleared the codes--but I will tomorrow.
  • dansk713dansk713 Member Posts: 6
    05 Subaru Outback Wagon LTD, water running down driver side pillar, dripping onto the driver side mat and floor. Any suggestions?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,758
    Limited... you have the sunroof, right? Sounds like a disconnected or clogged drain tube.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dansk713dansk713 Member Posts: 6
    Yes...it has the sunroof...how do you suggest reconnecting or unclogging?

    Thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,758
    I am not certain, but I think reconnecting involves removal of the headliner. Once you have access to it, you should be able to simply reconnect with a hose clamp and call it a day. As for clearing it, the drain tube should extend down the A pillar to the undercarriage of the vehicle. Blow compressed air back up the tube in a few short bursts and the water/muck should come flowing down.

    Again, I do not know for sure. this seems to be a fairly common issue, though, so finding information on it may not prove difficult!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • gjewersgjewers Member Posts: 2
    After looking at the forum I have come up with these conclusions: Towing is possible with a 2000lb or less trailer with electric brakes and less than 200lb tongue load. Sound correct? Using lower octane fuel is OK under normal conditions as the motor electronically retards timing when it senses the lower octane so the motor will not be hurt. Use high octane when towing or in other extreme conditions. Is this correct? Lastly, I have heard of no major recurring problems with the H6 motor such as heads and over heating but am still wondering about timing belts and any other good or bad points about this motor. I am thinking of purchasing a 2001 with 151k on it. I want to use it to pull a small camper. It seems to run like a top. Should I take the plunge? PS. I am also curious about what kind of mileage I might get while not towing Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah that's what he asked us--if he could tow a manual trans Subie '98 with all 4 on the ground. So that's what I told him----yes, you can :P I know this because I have a '97.

    Visiting Host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yeah that's what he asked us--if he could tow a manual trans Subie '98 with all 4 on the ground. So that's what I told him----yes, you can I know this because I have a '97.

    Visiting Host


    No he asked if he could disconnec the driveshaft so he could dolly tow it. Which he can do, however, he specifically said "with 2 wheels on the ground".

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That is all correct, the timing belt isn't an issue cause the H6 has a timing chain.

    -mike
  • alldusterallduster Member Posts: 1
    98 Subaru Legacy, 2.2L...When the car warms up after driven about 10miles the throttle hesitates, when let go of gas pedal, it runs smooth, when step on gas again the hesitation begins again. Vehicle Idles fine. All the timing and spark plug/wires were replaced. It seems to act up when its a little bit warm. Temp gauge is @normal. What could cause this or What component(s) are involve in the throttle process?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Yeah its peculiar because other OEMs like Honda, Toyota and Ford as well as aftermarket suppliers offer a "loaded strut" which is exactly what you describe. A new strut, spring, bearing, cap, bump-stop and bellows are sold pre-packaged and assembled and ready to bolt on the vehicle.
    I did that when replacing the rear strut/spring assembly in another vehicle because the springs had failed, but most of the time, I just use the spring compressor and do it the old fashion way.
  • gatineaugatineau Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 2.5i Legacy Wagon, manual transmission with 37,000 km on it. The car works great, but in the last 6 months a strong 'burnt rubber' odour comes through the heater vents. It is most noticeable on cold mornings (below freezing), for the first 15 minutes after it is started in the morning. There is no smell when the heater is set on recirculate. There are no fluid leaks, and the Subaru dealer cannot find anything wrong with the car. Any ideas?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Wow such a unit would cost in the order of $300+ per corner! The top hats and strut mounts on the subies are quite beefy and costly units. The other thing is why replace the springs as they usually last a lifetime.

    My guess is also because you really don't need a compressor on the subie springs there is no need to offer em pre-assembled.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Have they checked your belts? If it is only when it's cold my guess is that you are having a slipping belt of some kind, once it warms up it snugs down. Or perhaps you have an oil leak that can't be seen and it leaks onto a pipe when off and then burns off when you drive.

    -mike
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Yeah I think the rear assemblies were over $250 but less than $300 a piece for the Contour. I had one bad upper mount and one bad spring and since everything is theoretically supposed to be replaced in pairs I just dealt with it.
    When I did the '93 Accord's shocks, I just grabbed GR-2s off ebay and bought new front upper mounts (rears were fine) and went the old school spring compressor method.
    The Subie only has 25k on it and I shouldn't need shocks for a while, although this was definitely the last winter for the stock RE92s. The nice thing is they are 205/55R16 so I can get just about any tire category under the sun in that size.
  • gjewersgjewers Member Posts: 2
    On a 2001 H6 VDC the power steering makes loud noises whenever the steering wheel is even slightly turned and whether the vehicle is in motion or not. (Not the sound of slipping belts.) Also the upper, (I think) hose stiffens and jumps an inch or so when this happens. Is this a bad pump or some other problem in the system causing too much pressure or something? I've never seen hoses move so much on any car. Thanks.
  • toolshed1toolshed1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 subaru outback legacy 2.5L DOHC. Headgaskets were just replaced along with the thermostat and radiator cap. Heads were sent out to ck to see if they were warped, heads were ok. Now the car is overheating at speeds of 55mph or more. The vehicle does not overheat at idle or around town driving (30mph or less). Aux fans are coming on. Does anyone have an idea what could cause this problem and a possible fix for it.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    This might be a stretch, but I had the same smell on my 95 Impreza. I too, was not losing any visible oil or fluids. The engine was a 2.2 liter and at 34,000 miles the oil seal gasket or o ring went, not sure of it's proper name. I'm going by memory as this was 10 years ago, and four cars ago. Has the dealer checked your oil seals?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah I see what you mean. What I was telling him was not to bother putting in on a dolly, just tow it 4 wheels down on a frame or bumper hitch. I wasn't clear on that :cry:
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    If you flat tow like that, do you need bumper plates or can you just get one of those A-frame hitch deals and bolt it on where the bumper mounts or a tow spot or something?
    Theoretically, if its over 2000lbs, you still need brakes, right?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,758
    One would need to bolt an A-bar onto the car's frame rails. Theoretically one would need brakes, but it really depends on the weight (and brakes) of the tow vehicle and the capability of the driver. For a short trip towing the thing home, I would not bother with either. I would just remove the rear drive shaft and tow it home on a two-wheel dolly or use a flatbed trailer, whichever was available. My first choice would be the trailer. But, with one side of the car lifted up, it should only take about 30 minutes to pull the shaft. It only requires removal of the heat shields to gain easy access to the shaft. The annoying part is working around the exhaust pipe.

    Come to think of it, I have not seen a tow dolly with brakes... and the dolly would make the total towed weight greater than just leaving the car on the ground. Imagine that. :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • gatineaugatineau Member Posts: 3
    The dealer couldn't find any oil leaks. Any specific place the mechanic should look? I will also take it back to the dealer and have them look at the belts. Thanks for the advice.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Both sides head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and front and rear main seals.
  • bufwxguybufwxguy Member Posts: 10
    Update on my head gasket/coolant leak. 3 weeks and about 700 miles (odo now at about 81,900) after having the coolant conditioner added at the dealership (which helped - temporarily), a bigger leak opened up in the head gasket yesterday rather dramatically and suddenly fortunately at a donut shop drive-thru so I could shut down fairly quickly. Engine did not overheat according to temp gauge, but she was steamin' from coolant leaking onto exhaust and it drained the coolant jug quickly. Had car flat bedded to Subaru dealership (free AAA tow), now to see how helpful the extended warranty is.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Have this number handy just in case the dealership isn't cooperative: 1-800-SUBARU3.

    Good luck.
  • bufwxguybufwxguy Member Posts: 10
    Thanks. So far dealer has provided free loaner '08 Outback wagon while mine is in the shop. Great of them for doing that since they haven't looked at it yet due to shop backlog.
  • yentroc2501yentroc2501 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Subaru Legacy. The Transmission recently went up and I'm shopping for a new one. A friend of mine found on in a 98 Subaru Legacy Outback and we are trying to figure out if the 98 Transmission is compatible with my 95!? Can anyone help?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Is this a MT or AT trans?
    Also which engine in the 95 Legacy? 2.5 or 2.2?

    -mike
  • yentroc2501yentroc2501 Member Posts: 2
    Mike,

    Thanks for the reply!! It is an automatic trans. I'm pretty sure its a 2.2 but, I will have to verify that!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,758
    Mike, I thought 1996 was the first year for the 2.5L; is that not correct?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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