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The other is an '00 impezza sport outback and is $1000 more, has 76,490 miles on it and has had no major repairs.
Any thoughts on which may be more reliable?
Thanks!
I can say though that the Outback is a lot more useful (bigger), so if carrying capacity is a consideration, your choice is clear.
If the Outback has an automatic trans with 150K on it, that's not so good.
Both are pre-2002, when Subaru finally sorted out the gaskets.
I think I'd search for a higher mileage 2002 Outback Sport, or a 2003+ Legacy/Outback.
2003 and later Imprezas have the sturdier wheel bearings as well.
I am now also worried about the pre 2002 automatic transmissions.
I guess looking for a more recent Subaru is the best option - or go with Toyota.
Thanks again.
Look out for Toyota 6 speed autos and the 3.0l V6 sludge issue, otherwise Yotas are good.
At idle 20 hg and steady
At 2000rpm 22 hg and steady
Snap test it goes from 20 to 0 to 25 and back to 20hg in a smooth manner.
I have put a few hundred miles on it over the past week. and nothing has changed. If I clear the codes and keep it under 3000 rpms it will not trigger the check engine light. With in a min. of going over 3000 rpms it will turn on the check light and show a code p0304. Clear it and go keep it under 3000 rpm no light but go over 3000rpms and the light comes on.... I am trying to get a bore a scope for the fun of it. Not expecting to find anything in the cyl. with a comp of 190lbs...Still have the rattle noise when cold do Subarus sound like a bug motor?????when cold.
My friend suggest the easy way out. use the volume control to fix rattle and a small piece of electrical tape to fix the light......
Thanks
A lot of mechanics will simply remove the heat shield to stop the noise (although do not park it on a big pile of leaves or take it off road if you do so since the heat could ignite dry foilage), but I imagine there are a lot of other options to make the noise stop (I am going to look into misc. things this year once it warms up). Is it worse when you put in in gear (my heat shield makes virtually no noise until I put it in gear).
Also, my 2.5 has noticeable lifter noise. I've been told that this is somewhat normal for this engine (worse when cold) but that should be pretty easy to diagnose also. It doesn't bother me since it is not so loud as to be annoying. Once again, if this was the problem, that is also relatively easy to diagnose.
I would look at the heat shield myself and see if it was loose anywhere (look for metal sheet covering parts of the exhaust underneath the car). If not, it could be something else. Good luck.
Used subaru buyers would be wise to look for those with loose heat shields and negotiate much lower prices due to the "scary" noises (yes, I have done this)...
I took my Subaru to have the oil changed last week. I drove it away just about 3 miles, heard an odd noise and pulled over. I checked the dipstick - no oil! Had it towed back. The oil change shop guys admit they failed to put new oil in - about 1 cup drained out of the engine back at the shop. Their insurance is paying for repair.
Car is now at a Subaru dealer service department. The technician there says only the right side of the engine lost compression,cracked the head, and threw a rod. They are doing extensive work on that side - about $2000. However, he says the other side has compression in the normal range so it was not damaged. However, the oil pump seal and o-ring and the cam seals are leaking oil, and the head gasket is leaking coolant. These, he says, are NOT from the "dry run", so I can "choose" have them fixed - about $800.
This car was not leaking anything. I have had the maintenance work all done at the same shop here in my hometown, and their records show no incidence of low oil or coolant since I bought the car 3 years ago. There are no spots on my driveway or garage. Is it feasible that the 3 places on left side of my engine spontaneously started leaking without connection to the serious damage sustained on the right?
This is not making sense to me. I'm concerned that this is in fact damage already - and that more will show up down the road, when I won't be able to get it taken care of by the insurance. But of course, with this recommendation from the service guy, the insurance adjuster is "doing all he can".
What should I do? :sick:
Thanks
Loiseer
This is between you and the oil change shop.
Don't let them patch up the engine. What does Subaru care how much the oil change company pays? And by what magic do they determine that one side of an engine is damaged by loss of oil but the other side isn't?
SAY WHAT??
Get a lawyer.
Visiting Host
Or, if the Subaru dealer mis-conveyed this information to you, go back and get it spelled out so that it makes some kind of sense.
Despite the TV commercials for snake oil additives, you cannot in fact run an engine without oil for 3 miles at regular traffic speeds without probable and serious damage.
Without a disassembly and inspection, in fact no one knows yet what the actual facts are.
It just bolts on, nothing special. All you need is your ratchet set and maybe some lithium grease if you're working on the links that have bushings on them (usually the center ones).
Thanks! MM
Even given the age I'm sure you'll be OK until 90k. Then just have it replaced. To inspect it you've done most of the labor anyway.
sk88
Visiting Host
R
Shifty: agree on the HG issue.
Funny thing is we had 5 supposedly affected Subaru in my family (that's 10 head gaskets for those who are counting, given the H-4 layout) and none of us ever had that problem. Knock on wood.
All by itself?
Think about it - what caused it to rip? You probably hit a rock or drove over a curb to cause that tear to happen. CV boots don't rip themselves.
That's like saying, "The other day I drove straight in to a tree, BOY these bumpers are so unreliable! Now I need a new one!"
No warranty in the world would cover that, either.
FWIW I had bad luck, too - some rodents (squirrels? chipmunks?) got in my engine bay and chewed up the wiring harness in my brand new Sienna, less than a year old. $700 out of my pocket, not covered under warranty by Toyota.
Better luck with your Zook.
Anyway, it can't be more than a 10% failure rate, so your family might not get "decimated".
and is was a bad rear wheel bearing so they replaced them all. they said they would have needed it soon any way. haven't been back there and dout plan on it if at all posible Any oone ever had this problem need it back on road soon thanks
My two guesses for you: 1. Mass Airflow Sensor needs to be cleaned or replaced. 2. Knock sensor may be acting up.
My front moonroof won't pop open any more (stuck shut), but the back one works fine. Any one have this problem before or have suggestions for a DIY fix? Just want to fix her up before getting the new 2010 Outback.
Thanks,
Matt
thank you,
Chipinaw
Plastic gears...grrrr... Anyone replaced this themself before? I can pop open the roof part way, so can probably disconnect roof, but don't want to break anything...
Thx
Matt
I'm having a similar issue. I did not drain the battery, but did leave the overhead lights on overnight. Yesterday (four days later), while I was driving to work, the charge and break warning lights came on. I checked the parking brake, but it wasn't on. I decided to take the car to Autozone to check the battery, but on the way the lights went off, so I just turned around and went back to work. The lights stayed off for several trips and then came back on while I was driving again. They've stayed on, and when I was driving home, sometimes the ABS warning light would come on and then go off and then come on again. Also, the needles on the speedometer and RPM meter would sometimes go haywire waving up and down and the digital odometer would blink. This happened most notably when I turned the blinker on, so I just stopped using it until I got home.
I read in the manual that driving with an insufficient battery voltage can cause the ABS light to come on and that it will go out with the battery is fully charged. So maybe the battery just has a low charge? It's about a year and a half old, but like I said I did leave the overhead lights on. The car still started, though, and the problem didn't happen until four days later. It could be a result of the short shopping trips I made on Wednesday and today, not giving the battery enough time to charge up.
I'm afraid to drive the car now. And I don't want to take the battery out unless I absolutely have to. It's hard to get the wires on the terminals, and they have a corrosion problem, so I've spent a lot of time working on it and I don't want to take that all apart. Further, I don't have the means to do it right now. Car troubles make me sick on the inside, so if anyone has thoughts or insights, I would really appreciate them.
It's a 2000 Outback Wagon, too.
You got 100k miles out of it and it should sell for $6-7 grand or so. I'd sell it.