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Electronic Gremlins - Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I don't know where it is for an Escort, but follow the leads from the + Battery. You'll find a large thick wire going down to the starter, but at some point you'll find a wire which feeds the main power buss of the car. Would be protected some how, perhaps in a black plastic case.
  • ashtrizzashtrizz Member Posts: 5
    I just want to say thank you all for your ideas and help :) I guess it ended up being a wire that was hanging down and when I would go over bumps it was rubbing on something that made it hot and melted it creating the short! So thanks ev1!!
  • pat13151pat13151 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2001 Chrysler Voyager. 6 months ago my drivers side window started working slow then quit. Tried a new master switch it didn't work the drivers window either. Spent 100.00 to have it diagnosed and was told it was the motor. Couldn't afford a new one so drove with the window up argggg!!!!!! Recently the power door locks started working intermittently and now the rear vent windows and passenger window too. Was told it could be the power window relay but I don't know where it's hidden. I'm on a fixed income and have very little money add to that the fact that I'm a woman and you can see the problem. Some mechanics will tell you anything and take your money figuring you're a woman and won't know any better so it's hard to find one you can trust. Does anyone know where the window relay is hidden? it's not in the fuse box under the hood. Also could it be a short? Help!!! I'm getting ready to beat my head against the wall...lol :sick:
  • luckydoggluckydogg Member Posts: 6
    I had the same problem with my park ave. I went through everything, fuses, door module, window motors, etc. It ended up being a pin hole in a electrical wire that had finally rusted through..... In the Park Ave, the wire was under the windshield washer fluid container.. The wire was not in a harness. It just ran along the fender wall. Maybe this will help????
  • pat13151pat13151 Member Posts: 10
    update! went to an auto repair shop supposed to specialize in electrical problems with a BBB listing. The mechanic I talked to could not grasp the fact that when the passenger window doesn't work neither do the auto door locks (they lock when you hit a certain speed), the door lock button or the vent windows and the door ajar buzzer. When one works they all work. He started going on about how he could replace both window motors and the vent motors and that the locks would be another repair. He insisted it couldn't be a short or bad wire because none of my fuses were blown and insisted it couldn't be the window relay (wherever they hid that). He treated me like I was an idiot for thinking they could all be connected somehow. When the window works it works fine and so do the vents etc, If the motors were bad then I don't see how they could work fine sometimes and not others. :mad: this is me screaming
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You need to find someone who has electrical schematics for your vehicle (and knows how to use them).

    I don't have your schematics, so can't help you. But I'd be looking at the power feed to those devices, you may have a relay with some burnt points creating a resistance and dropping the voltage. This voltage could be checked with a digital voltmeter. Many vehicles also have a small computer or part of the body control which also is involved, for instance, automatically locking the doors when your vehicle exceeds 10mph, or opening the door locks when you put it in park. Remote start controls, can also control windows.
  • pat13151pat13151 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for answering. I don't have remote start on my van or the remote to unlock the doors. I looked in the chilton repair manual for my van but I didn't find anything telling me where the relay for the windows is, someone said maybe under the dash somewhere.Unfortunately I'm a 57 year old woman who while I am handy I am not an auto mechanic. As you can see from my previous posts I'm not having much luck finding a qualified mechanic and I can't afford to take it to the dealership as they are way out of my budget. So far I've spent 200.00 and gotten nowhere. The last guy told me he could replace all the window motors and fix the door locks for around 3000.00 as they were all separate issues. I know this can't possibly be true as when they work they all work. He was the fifth supposedly certified mechanic I've talked to. It really frustrates me that that all these guys want to do is treat me like I'm stupid and take my money. If I had 3000.00 Id take it to the dealership.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    online manual?

    I just did a quick internet search for Voyager service manual, and came across these guys. Personally, I have never used them so don't know that their manuals get down to the electrical schematic level that you need. I've used HelmInc for online manuals successfully in the past, but they don't carry Plymouth manuals.

    You want to find a set of manuals which gets you to a level of detail like this posting I have on my carspace that I did for someone else where I had the manuals, and was able to mark it up for them. Normally you'll only find black and white. Hayes and Chilton normally don't get down to that level of detail, you typically need some sort of factory service manuals which also need electrical schematics.
    link
  • pat13151pat13151 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks so much I couldn't find that info in the chilton or hayes manuals for my van. I'm printing all the info I can find that seems relevant. It did tell me where the window relay and fuses are. I wish I was sure what I needed from the site I paid 13.00 and I get to use it for a month. I wish you could look through the info for my van and tell me what I should be printing. Once I have the info I just have to find someone who will know how to use it without trying to charge me thousands of dollars. :confuse:
  • pat13151pat13151 Member Posts: 10
    I was just wondering, if you had the time you could e-mail me and i could give you the log in info so you could look through the info on that site for me and maybe figure out what i really need. As I said I'm not a mechanic so I'm not sure how much or what info I really need. I printed everything I found on the windows and the wiring diagrams I don't think I can print the whole thing as I'm sure I'll run out of ink and paper..
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Try sending to kiawah@carspace.com.
  • lammy2lammy2 Member Posts: 2
    If I move the hazard switch on my 99 yukon xl, the brake lights may or may not work. I have to keep a piece of paper next to the switch for them to work properly. I hear clicking noise if I move it also. The other day I shut off the engine and removed my key and there were several clicking noises and then one louder one. Could this be a wire in column shorting out or something more like a main fuse in the box under the hood? I have not taken it in to dealer yet because of the price. Hoping to find some answers here. Thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Doesn't that sound like a bad hazard switch? Where you have to keep a sideways pressure on it for the connectors to make the right contact?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    pat,
    I didn't receive any mail from you, so don't know whether you haven't sent it yet....or my email at edmunds carspace isn't working correctly.

    Can you let me know if you tried to send...thanks.
  • pat13151pat13151 Member Posts: 10
    sent you an e-mail at your carspace address guess you didn't get it. if you can e-mail me at pricci5877@roadrunner.com I'll reply to you with the log in info for the site you gave me and you can look through the wiring and window info. I am not sure what all I need. this is the link to the log in page http://www.eautorepair.net/default.asp
  • oregonboyoregonboy Member Posts: 1,650
    A lady-friend of mine has a mid-to-late 90s Lexus GS300, (I think that is the model: 6-cyl. RWD), that was exhibiting strange behavior. She took it to the dealer, who informed her that a rodent had been dining on the main cable runs between the transmission and the engine. (Perhaps the engine control computer. I got this all second-hand, over the phone, while she was driving.... Yeah, I know, stereotypical female Lexus owner).

    The Lexus dealer will replace the cable for $4,000 plus $1,400 in labor. I guess it must be made with gold wire. :sick:

    She then took it to an independent shop that works on Lexus and asked if the cable could be repaired. They suggested that she try an "electrical shop", but that there may be a risk of damaging the tranny.

    She is located in the Seattle-Tacoma area, so there should be lots of "resources" available to her.

    Thoughts, ideas, suggestions?

    James
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well a shop specializing in Japanese cars might tackle it but it's a rather scary job for a mechanic, since one could end up being "married" to the car for life. This is why jobs like this are usually overbid. Combacks are almost expected. The dealer is obviously going to replace the entire sub-harness and not mess around with any splicing or repairs; whereas an indie shop might take a chance on repairing only what the alleged rodent chewed through, with the understanding that there are no guarantees.

    Another issue is electrical fire and the liabilities that go with that. So the dealer is playing it safe by repairing the entire subharness, from one connector to the next. This is no doubt a tedious job in itself and I would imagine the harness is not cheap and must be special ordered.

    You can shop it around but be careful what you wish for, you may get it.
  • sam110sam110 Member Posts: 3
    HAVE AN 01 CREW CAB TRUCK 6.0 ENGINE IT MISSES AND STALLS AND IS HARD TO START WHEN IT DOES THIS (sorry about the caps) the temp guage goes crazy from 0 to 260 the truck has never over heated have put a new ignition switch have put in new crank and cam sensor it still won't run and keeps going dead. It has new wires and plugs and we put a new fuel pump in it in March of this year so I don't think it is that. Please hope someone can give me some help have had it on a scanner and it shows no codes that will not help thanks again sam 110
  • email4khemail4kh Member Posts: 2
    2000 Nissan Quest . My driver side headlight isn't working. IT'S NOT THE LAMP/BULB. I've checked the underhood relays and all the fuses. The high beams work, but I've noticed that when I move the switch stem around, there's a crackling sound coming from behind the CD changer (near the floorboard behind the middle of the dash). Anybody familiar with this? Is it more likely the high beam switch or whatever's making the noise in the dash? Thanks!!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I think you're going to need to find/buy/subscribe to a set of factory electrical schematics. Typically in that circuit on that car is the stalk switch, a set of relays, a set of DRL (daytime running light, if your vehicle has them) relays, and sometimes a computer control like body control module.....and of course the bulbs.

    You might try www.nissanhelp.com, sometimes they have downloadable manuals.

    If you can find a set of electrical schematics in electronic format, I'll help you with the trouble shooting if you need/want.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Actually, I just went to the site, and they have the electrical schematics for your vehicle you can download. There is aspecifically a section for headlights, which includes a diagnostic section based on your symptoms.

    You should have everything you need to isolate and fix your problem.
  • grandmascargrandmascar Member Posts: 2
    I have had problems with the interior lights flashing, then I couldn't turn them off, so I took out all the bulbs so my battery wouldn't be drained. Yesterday I was driving and all of a sudden lost power, including my steering. I coasted to the side of the road. My headlights and dashboard still worked. (I do have plenty of gas in tank.) I waited a minute or so, then restarted the car. I drove it home but now I don't know what to do. Why would the car lose power while driving? This is the worst piece of crap car I have ever owned! :lemon: :mad:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, in the GM world, especially Cadillac of about this age, there is a problem with Crank Position Sensors (Cads have two). When they have a problem, it will totally kill the motor. And many times the car will restart in a short time. And, it does not set any check engine code/s.

    But, no idea if this your problem.

    Oh, and a battery cable that failed will also shut the car down.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It could be caused by a whole bunch of different things, ranging from battery to cabling, to relays, to ignition switch, to computer. Get it to the dealership or good mechanic to troubleshoot.
  • mblbmblb Member Posts: 1
    The problem I have is a battery drain. First the DRL stopped working, narrowed that down to the diode under the dash (removed diode, jumped the terminals with a fuse). I disconnected the negative battery cable and clipped a test light to the cable and put the pointed end on the neg battery terminal making sure no contact to the cable and battery directly except through the test light, viola I had light that fluctuated from dim to off, quickly, in no appearant rhythm. Next I kept hearing the remote function activation module clicking. When fuse 19 was removed the clicking stopped and the light went out, so I removed the RFAM, no change. The fuse controls the radio/battery as per the fuse cover. Everything works fine, door locks, windows, seats, mirrors, radio, cd player (when fuse is in place), dome lights, head lights, A/C, heater blower motor. Any ideas what would cause a low level "short" that won't blow the fuse but drain the battery down? any help is appreciated. P.S. the fuse is a 15 amp rated fuse which is what called for in that socket. Thanks.
  • typethreetypethree Member Posts: 2
    Ok, so I just gifted myself a swank new Z2. Was wondering if I need to buy any expensive accessories to protect it? You know like a leather pouch or plastic screen shield.
  • cardv1cardv1 Member Posts: 4
    Here’s the deal: you don’t have to buy any protection for your DVD, but you’re better off doing so. You probably spent a small fortune on it, so spend a tiny bit more to prevent it from getting scratched or spoilt. Try navprotector.com, they have some good protectors that are not expensive either.
  • swnkylaxplyrswnkylaxplyr Member Posts: 1
    My '91 toyota celica keeps blowing alternator fuses. I took the alternator to advance auto and they said that its fine. I also tried replacing the fuse with the alternator unplugged, but when I reconnected the battery, the fuse blew right away. Sounds like a bad ground or a short, but does anyone have any idea where it may be?
  • email4khemail4kh Member Posts: 2
    Just to update: I replaced the combination turn signal/beam control switch (the unit includes the signal arm and plugs into the quick-connects in the steering column) and the problem was solved. BTW, the part sold under the Mercury Villager (Motorcraft) number is the same as the Nissan. Good luck finding a new one. Try eBay. :shades:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I don't have a set of electrical schematics for your vehicle, which one would really need to help find this problem without randomly guessing.

    The alternator fuse does usually protect other circuits besides the alternator, let me try to give you an analogy which isn't the greatest, but you may get the concept. Lets assume you have a savings and checking account at a bank. Your paycheck normally gets deposited into your checking account, and you pay your utility bills each month directly from your checking account. In a normal month, you may have zero dollars transferred between your savings and checking account, but lots of activity within your checking account.

    That fuse is between the battery (your savings account), and the checking account (your alternator). Hanging off on that alternator circuit side could be a number of different fused circuits, all capable of drawing off current (those utility bills). As an illustrative example only, lets say one of them might be a fused headlight circuit. When those headlights are on and the engine is running, the power is coming directly from the alternator, it does not pass thru that 90? amp alternator fuse. Only if the engine wasn't running and the alternator wasn't making power, would the required power come from the battery.

    So the current going thru that 90? amp fuse, is more like the current that is charging back up the battery. Back to the analogy, when you buy some furniture you withdraw money out of your savings, and then over the course of the next couple of months you slowly fill your savings account back up.

    In a vehicle, some circuits are wired on the battery side (typically like the starter motor), and some are wired on the alternator side of that fuse. So if you had electrical schematics, you'd be able to see which fused circuits are on the alternator side of that fuse. You should be tripping the individual fuses first before being able to draw the 90? amp and blow that alternator fuse.

    If it was my vehicle without electrical schematics, here's the stuff I would probably do:
    - would suspect first, anything added electrically to the vehicle, where someone might have spliced into some wires (added in a new stereo, trailer hitch, alarm system, HID lights?)
    - inspect for corrosion on cabling, either on the positive or grounds, at battery connections, starter connections, fuselink box connections.
    - I would then suspect electrical things that 'wear' with age. The ignition switch, which on an old vehicle has seen many cycles of turning off and on, and may have developed an internal short. The cig socket, which can get prongs bent inside, wiring on the drivers door jamb or trunk which goes thru bending opening and closing, etc.
    - the next diagnostic technique I'd try is to carefully label and pull all the fuses I could find (both engine compartment and cabin. Make sure you know exactly which fuse came out of which slot, and take close up pictures if need be. Once all the fuses were out, replace the 90A alternator fuse and hopefully it won't blow. Begin putting the fuses back, starting up in the engine compartment first as those tend to be the main circuits. If your 90A fuse then blows, then you have focused in on the problem area. This can be a very labor intensive approach.

    A set of electrical schematics could save you hours and hours of work, so personally, I'd be buying that first.

    The real point of this post, expand your diagnostics beyond thinking you have an 'alternator' problem.
  • artnjartnj Member Posts: 4
    For 6 months or so, once a month, when it rained HARD for HOURS (not in light rain), and my car (2004 Accord EX) was outside, I would experience the nav unit (which includes the radio and clock) quickly flickering off and on until the car warmed up. My mechanic told me "well, you could bring it in and pay me to fish around, but it doesnt seem worth it. Wait and see if it gets worse."

    Last Friday, torrential rains, car outside all day. Nav unit was again flickering on and off, with greater rapidity than I have seen. Over the course of 15 minutes (before car warmed up/dryed out I guess), it probably flickered on and off 75 times. Maybe 15 times, the flicker was accompanied by the ABS and Brake indicator lights on the dash flickering on the dash itself (i.e. as far as I know, it was just the indicator lights flickering), and the gas cutting out. These are super quick flickers, the gas cutting out was noticeable, but over so quickly it didnt seem overly dangerous and I crossed my fingers and drove home.

    I am very concerned I got ripped on the repair work that was done. The tech essentially admitted to me that there was no thorough testing of the electrical system. Sounded like he stopped at a visual inspection of the wires/connections. He noticed that by jiggling the key in the slot, he could make the power flicker and decided the ignition switch was bad. He recovered a code that had led to the check enginge light being on, which reported a problem with the main computer control system, which he said was hopefully just from the power spike. He reported that he "used a hose" on the car but was unable to recreate the problem. He took the car for a "test drive" today (no rain today.) So "maybe" it was the ignition switch. I am getting a bill for $390 for this!

    Hope I'm wrong, but my guess is that the next time the car is out in/after heavy rain, I'm going to be cursing up a storm when the problems reoccur. Most of my drive to work is a busy highway, so its probably not to safe either.

    What the heck? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • sunfire344890sunfire344890 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 88 ford ranger 4/4. we put a new battery in it and starter and drove it home. my son drove it up the road, now it wont start.rolls over but wont fire. we have replaced ingnition key cylinder, distributer. distributer cap and rotor button, coil, plugs wires. we have also had the ignition module checked 3 tmes they say its good. it rolls over but still wont start. i was told it was in the distibuter so thats why i bought the new one, but it still wont fire. please help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you've been to the pyschics and now it's time to go to a real mechanic.

    Has anyone tested for the following?

    1. Is there a spark at the plug when the engine cranks?

    2. Is there a pulse at the injectors when you crank?

    3. Is there fuel pressure in the fuel rail?

    Any good mechanic has the testing tools for these 3 tests, and the "yes/no" answer will tell you which way to proceed toward a solution.
  • m1966m1966 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    Passenger electric window stopped working on my 1999 voyager a while ago, Recently driver electric window stopped working. it looks like Chrysler have some major electric problems, I woul appreciate any feedback.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Does the passenger window work from 'either' the drivers switch, or the passengers switch?

    Sounds like you need to get to the underside of your drivers switch to check whether it is supplying voltage to the window regulator/motor assemblies, or not.
  • jwvolsfanjwvolsfan Member Posts: 4
    I had both front axles replaced in Jan 09--since then I have had various electrical problems. First the anti lock brakes light began coming on intermittently--now on continuously. Then the turn signals/emergency flashers would only work intermittently, now not at all. Then two days ago the battery light and emer brake light came on. After driving it home and parking it in the garage it would not start. I took it too a mechanice who replaced the alternator. The battery and parking brake light went out, but the anti lock brakes light is still on and the turn signals still do not work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • jwvolsfanjwvolsfan Member Posts: 4
    were you able to resolve your problems?
  • testarossa51testarossa51 Member Posts: 1
    Sounds familiar cdonovan...I had the same happen in both an 05 XC and now a c70. :lemon: How did your issue resolve?
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    Car sat for 2 yrs with blown head gasket d/t bad water pump. D/T having oil and h2o in oil pan the cams rusted very bad in engine. have together..all torqued to specs. but wont start. I have replaced: plugs, coil boots, coil, temp. ( engine ) sensor,crank sensor, cam sensor, pcv valve, timing chain, timing guides, cam gears, timing chain tensioner, new heads, new cams, new lifters, new rollers, new intake gasket set, new auto shut down relay, fuel pump relay.. Car wont start... any idea's what i need to do to get the car to start.. does the computer need to be flashed ? Timing Chain, cams are 100% in line. Anything would help at this point... :sick:
    thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check compression in each cylinder.

    Check for spark.

    How did you get rid of all of that bad gas? Any rust on the main crank bearings?
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    i added cfoam to the tank, a whole can.
    compression should be good .. is all new and torqued

    what about the sentry key imobilizer module in the ignition switch ? its a round ring module.. would that have something to do with it ?
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    ok will re check everything over again.... thank you for your quick response to my question :)
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    I have rechecked everything.. and it still dont want to start... sounds like it wants to but dont turn over .. any other suggestions ?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What is the compression in each cylinder.......?

    Are you getting sparking at each of the spark plugs.......?

    What is the fuel pressure...............? Are the plugs wet with fuel when you take them out of the head?

    And just to clairfy, when you say it sounds like it wants to turn over, but doesn't...do you mean that the starter is engaged, the starter is turning the crankshaft of the engine, but it is not starting to run....correct?
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    thanks for helping me on this misfit lol i have taken it to the dealer , need new pcm.. something about the emission was set for California and im in ohio... they will fix problem.. and that will be the end of this nightmare :D
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    something about the emission was set for California and im in ohio

    If this was what was actually said - it's BS.

    What, you can't drive a car from California to Ohio?

    And, by 2000, all cars probably met the California emission standards.
  • ez2cyuwinez2cyuwin Member Posts: 2
    Hi Guys...I have a good one here that I'm hoping you can figure out for me.

    I have a 1996 Jimmy that I put an electric over hydraulic plow on. I put a second battery in it to help with the draw. I used it all last winter and when everything was running (lights, defroster, rear defroster, rear wiper, front wipers...when I actuated the plow...it would draw down to 9 volts at an idle to 1000 rpm. I decided to put on a larger output alternator for this coming winter and bought a 155 amp unit and also the recommended beefier wiring kit with a 175 amp fuse in it. I installed everything and ran the vehicle with everything going and actuated the plow several times. It still drew down to 10 volts but recovered much quicker. I shut it off and since it's just used for plowing, I didn't start it again for a week or so.

    Recently, I started her up and immediately noticed that the voltmeter was registering about 9.5 volts with no load on anything. I called Napa and had them ship another one. I took my new one in and the guy bench tested it and said it was good. He also tested the new one they got for a replacement and found it to be bad so he ordered a third one. I installed this one and it worked fine. I started it up the next 3 days in a row and it was charging just fine...but the 4th day, it did the same thing. When I started it up, it wasn't charging. Something happened to both alternators between the time I shut off the vehicle and the alternator was charging...to the next time I started it and it wasn't.

    I believe I should have 12 volts at the charge cable end at the alternator at all times...I do. Also, the "L" terminal coming out of the harness at the alternator should have 12 volts when the ignition is in the RUN or START position...I can't confirm that. I don't have a test meter...just a 12 volt trouble light and I'm not sure I'm making a good connection to that small pin but I had these conditions before I installed the second alternator and it worked for 4 days.

    I don't understand what has happened...why the new alternator will work for a while and then just stop working while the engine isn't even running. I just replaced the original 105 amp alternator with a higher output one...and I installed the wire upgrade kit that goes with it. Both of the alternators have "failed" since doing the changeover. I have rechecked my ground and all wiring. Something is happening after running and then turning off the vehicle...with the first one it was the second time I started it up and it just wasn't charging. The second alternator worked for 4 start-ups and on the fifth...just wasn't charging. Neither one of them "quit" AFTER starting the engine.

    What does that "L" pin go to? Does it have something to do with "exciting" the regulator? I think I read that it could have a resistor in the line somewhere. What does it look like, where is it located, and how do I test it? Can you enlighten and help me...PLEASE? :confuse:

    Thanks,
  • jeni_a_mjeni_a_m Member Posts: 2
    I took my nearly 150,000 mile car to this terrible mechanic because the car kept dying, no warning it would just die. Got a new battery and a new alternator but no luck. They said it must be electrical. So after 2 days of them "fixing" it, they said it was a fog light that was bad, they unplugged it, and I was good to go. Well, it runs but now I have the most random issues. First the remote didn't work, turns out they didn't plug back in the wires in the trunk, so i fixed that. Now the air conditioner will blow on full for awhile, then self adjust to low and go back in forth, although the fan meter says it's on high the entire time. When it's 103 out, I really need it to work. The other issue is the radio will work, then the front speakers will cut out and then come back on...over and over. PLEASE HELP!!!! I won't take my car back to that mechanic and I'm being quoted $100 for anyone to even look at it.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I'd take it to the dealership, where you know they would have the electrical skills, schematics, and any test equipment for your model.

    The hardest problems to find are randomly intermittent ones. Your radio and a/c problems sound like they occur fairly regularly, so they should be easy for a good electrical guy to zero right in on the problem.

    If the fog lights were factory, hard to imagine they would create some sort of electrical problem that was causing your vehicle to die. If someone else installed them aftermarket, then no telling what they did to the wiring to get power.
  • jeni_a_mjeni_a_m Member Posts: 2
    Thank you. I will most likely have to do that. I'm sure the genious that worked on it didn't plug something back in very well, but like you said, without that knowledge there is no telling what it is.

    They are factory lights, but for some reason the light case will hold water. I guess there is a crack or something, but I can't see it.

    I'm trying to keep the car going for at least another year, but I was just told the radiator has a hairline crack and the cad. converter is going out. I do the regular maintance, and I know it's a good car, I guess the one I bought just isn't wanting to hold out.
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