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Electronic Gremlins - Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

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Comments

  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    dazed10 - i have never heard of this "feature" either.

    in my opinion, this sounds like a very creative story to hide an electrical problem with the car, in the ignition cylinder / wheel / stalk area.

    this sort of thing, and i'm not trying to be alarmist here: it could leave one stranded, perhaps cause a short leading to blown fuses. in the extreme: it could contribute potentially to an electrical fire.

    if it's under warranty, the thing to do is get it fixed.

    call another chevy dealership if you have to and confirm the situation is not being presented truthfully.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    2001 Maxima, 93000 miles, original battery, car is 4.5 years old. Yesterday evening the car would not start after a number of short trips. The tow truck jump started the car and it ran for a few minutes and then quit. Had to jump start it again. Drove to a local garage and the car quit again just outside the garage. They jump started it one more time. After installing a new battery all seems well.

    I always thought you don’t need the battery once the car is started – the alternator should be able to supply all the power. I had the air conditioner off and all other electrical equipment off yet the car still quit a few times, so I am wondering if the culprit may be the alternator.

    What do you guys think? By the way the battery was totally shot – very little liquid if any was present, and according to the shop it leaked. Any thoughts?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the battery is totally shot the alternator has no place to put the electrical charge.

    Besides, NEVER EVER try to charge a totally dead battery with the alternator---you'll ruin it.
  • slevyslevy Member Posts: 5
    Hello,
    I have a really annoying problem...
    My Sienna 2000 headlight sometime work and sometimes not. The problem appears on both sides (left and right) at the same time. The low "running lights" are working fine, but the low beam lights sometimes turns off during driving and sometimes they never turn on. The high beam lights NEVER work. It seems like when the car is "cold" the low beam lights will turn on, and after driving for a while, they will switch off and stay off for the rest of the drive, which force me to drive with the low "running lights" which are very poor in their intensity and not very safe at night.
    All other lights (indicators, tail, break, reverse etc.) are working fine.
    I have checked the fuse/relay box and couldn't see any problem. I replaced the headlights fuses (15A each) and problem remains. I also replaced the headlights relay and problem remains.
    Help!

    Thanks,
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    Thanks Mr_Shiftright. The original battery was not totally dead as I had started the car with it on a number of occasions that day before it failed. So at least it was ok (or almost ok) shortly before it failed. Also, even after the problem occurred there was still some power left in it as I got the interior lights on, though there was absolutely zero cranking power available. Actually, there was very little power left indeed as even the remote lock would not work correctly – it would lock/unlock the driver's door (the first click) but not be able to lock unlock the other doors (the second click on the remote).

    Anyway, the battery had close to zero fluid in it. So it was definitely a problem. I had the battery light on the dashboard come and go intermittently for about six months now, and that normally happened after the car had been sitting parked for a while. I guess I should have addressed the problem earlier.

    Now the question is - is it worth the trip to the dealer to check the alternator? Or shall I wait until the next oil change? Or are they even going to be able to catch an alternator problem even if there is one if it is intermittent?

    The reason why I suspect the alternator may be at fault is because the car kept dying and needed three jumps in order to drive it to the nearest garage about 2 miles away. I would have thought the alternator would be sufficient to provide all the power – or am I wrong?

    Now with the new battery – AC Delco – all seems perfect.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well an alternator can SEEM to be working but still not putting out optimum voltage...in other words, it puts out enough to keep the dash light off but not enough to really top off the battery.

    As for the car running, your car's computer does not like voltage drops.
  • msb2umsb2u Member Posts: 1
    My 1992 Olds 88 is sending a message "ECM DATA LINK PROB" on my dashboard. My mechanic can't figure out what that computer message is saying but tells me nothing comes up on his computer. He suggested I go to a GM dealer to have the message read from their computer. It truly is an annoying pinging sound. Should I worry or just keep driving as he suggests.

    :confuse:
  • 97gmcsafari97gmcsafari Member Posts: 3
    I went to start my '97 GMC Safari Van tonight... NOTHING. Charged the battery, hooked it back up, and all my outside lights (parking & headlights) are on and the buzzer is making noise inside, but THE LIGHT SWITCH IS OFF. If I turn the dimmer switch all the way down, the buzzer goes away but the lights are still on everywhere inside & out. Something TOTALLY drained my battery last night, not sure what went wrong, everything was working fine until now. WHAT COULD THE CAUSES BE??? :confuse:
    Thanks in advance!
    Henry
  • c130andyc130andy Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 jeep sport-and i have the following problems can any one help please
    1- the over head interior light comes on everyonce in a while when doors are closed and while i am driving.
    2-if i do not use car for a couple of days ,i need a boost to start car-battery dies.
    3-while driveing car everyonce in a while i hear a distinct click sound, and i loss all power to car and it dies on me.have to pull over and put car in park and start car. and it is good to go for a couple of weeks or until the next time.i hear that click.
    4-the alarm goes off everyonce in awhile.while car is parked.this is original alarm system since 1995.
    my question's
    1- what could be causing all these problems.
    a-computer in car
    b-alarm system
    c-interior over head light draining battery
    please help.
    thanks --andy :confuse:
  • gcrossgcross Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 chry LHS. Recently the truck releases started activating when the auto door locks engage, the horn stopped working, and the stereo audio stopped work (all at the same time). Anyone know the problem and a solultion? thanks
  • dianeparkerdianeparker Member Posts: 3
    :mad: I have a 90 gmc safari van, i need help. on the instrument panel the only things working is my volt meter and temp gauge, battery gauge.the rest nothing. my light buzzer stays on, on the passenger side head light and tail light are dim. can someone help me asap!!!! :
  • crackerjaxcrackerjax Member Posts: 6
    Hi Rebellady! You are welcome! Just got back from vacation and saw you fixed it. Good for you! I love it when we save money!!! :D
    Take care,
    Crackerjax
  • crackerjaxcrackerjax Member Posts: 6
    Fred, you are welcome! I have found out that taking the battery out of a Dodge Caravan is like it playing Russian Roulette. I have learned to be VERY careful with the battery.
    Crackerjax
  • crackerjaxcrackerjax Member Posts: 6
    Try the recalibration again and wait until you see the two blinking lights then wait until you see one blinking light. It may take a little while. If you see it, press the one blinking light and hold it a few seconds and let go. See if it worked. If not, it could be a short circuit. Go through the signal process and see if any trouble lights come up. Do this:
    Get some paper and a pen.
    Put your key in the ignition.
    Start with the key off.
    Turn the key on, then off, then on, then off then back to on and leave it on.
    The check engine light will start to flash. Write down how many flashes. The codes will blink in two digit numbers so say 23 will look like "flash,flash" pause "flash, flash, flash" the computer will run through all the fault codes in it's memory. You know it is done when it flashes 5 5, which is 5 flashes pause then 5 flashes. It is telling you that is all. you can look up the code numbers on the internet. I think I got this set of codes at www.allpar.com. It is pretty basic and you might go online for any more info and more detailed codes. Keep in mind codes can change with years and makes so you might use the set I list below and see if any flashes match the codes below and that might help you see where the problem is. I hope this helps.
    Codes for many Dodge Caravans
    11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.
    12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
    13 MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
    14 MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
    15 No speed/distance sensor signal
    16 Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
    17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
    17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
    21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
    22 Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
    23 Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
    24 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
    25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
    26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) 27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
    OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
    OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
    OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
    - check computer, connections
    31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
    32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
    32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
    32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
    33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
    34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
    34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
    35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
    35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
    36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
    36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
    36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
    37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed OR
    part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89) OR
    solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV) OR
    Trans temperature sensor voltage low
    41 Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
    42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
    42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
    42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles OR
    42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized
    43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time OR
    43 Cylinder misfire OR
    43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
    44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board OR
    44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem OR
    44 Battery temperature out of range
    45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
    46 Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
    47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
    51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position OR
    51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
    52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position OR
    52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
    53 Logic module internal problem
    54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only) OR
    54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing (7)
    55 End of codes
    61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
    62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
    62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
    63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
    64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
    65 Power steering switch failure
  • dianeparkerdianeparker Member Posts: 3
    I NEED HELPTO FIGURE OUT WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY 90 GMC SAFARI. ANY IDEAS
  • williamstoxwilliamstox Member Posts: 4
    I have a 95 ford esscort, 1.9 4 cly. that is driving me crazy, I am getting no fire to
    my plug. I changed the coil and no fire, I had the E.C.M. tested at a local Auto Zone and it showed it as working properly. The sales person at the Auto Zone is telling me to try a cam shaft sensor.......or....the list go's on. I feel as if Im becomeing one of his "best customers"? I need HELP, if anyone can give some ideals or if they know what the problem is please help................thank you.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Great answers! Glad to have you on board and thanks for helping your fellow motorist :D
  • stewgystewgy Member Posts: 1
    Hi there Just joined specfiicly for this trouble. I was just informed that my sisters supra has the same trouble. exactly. I havent looked at yet I hope ill be able to soon as this trouble is kinda unsafe. I was just wondering if you ever got an answer as to what was causing the problem, Feel free to email me. Thank you.
  • williamstoxwilliamstox Member Posts: 4
    I am sorry, I dont know if Im looking in the right spot for answers to my questions? I just click on resent messages right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes if you subscribed to the forum so that the message center knows to notify you.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    If you look to the left under Forums Tools and see the "My Recent Posts" link you can find your message/question and underneath it will be light/gray links to any answers that were provided.

    And as Shifty said, you can always click the Subscribe link in the discussion and when you return on your next visit click Read Subscriptions or Message Center to see if new messages have been posted in that discussion.
  • jkolakjkolak Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,
    Hope you can help me with a lemon I have owned for five years, and spent $3800 on in the last 18 months. The mystery problem.....engine has a misfire at low rpm, three dealers have scoped it...nothing but emission codes....have installed a new egr, plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel injectors, cap, rotor. Have unhooked every part of the emission control system one at a time to fool the computer....nothing.
    All that works is to replace the cap and rotor....that buys me around 150 miles of carefree driving. then, time for a new cap and rotor. Inside of cap has no wear marks, but looks like some kind of corrosion, or coating on the contacts. If your step on the gas hard, she runs fine.,...low speed, or even cruise control on the highway, and you have a miss....It is not rain related......please help!
  • bailey3bailey3 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I bought a 1995 Cirrus 5 months ago with 147,000 kms and it has worked fine until recently. My husband lost the remote to the keyless entry several weeks ago and last week locked the doors to my car with the power door lock and then opened the passenger door with the key. This set off the factory alarm. He couldn't get it to stop by holding the key in the unlock position in either door, so he took off the battery cable for awhile. This didn't work either so he called the local Chrysler dealer, they suggested getting a new remote so we got a used one took the car to the dealer (towed) and they programed the new remote but that did not shut off the alarm. He asked if they could disable the alarm altogher and they can't. So now it sits at the dealer as they call back and forth to Chysler Motors trying to disarm this thing. You would think a fuse or something could be pulled to shut it off but no luck so far. If I ever get it fixed, I'm selling it quick!!

    Does anyone have any idea how to turn this alarm off?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Replace the body control computer.
  • keirkeir Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Pontiac Sunfire that won't start. Went to start her up after the holiday weekend and no turnover, nothing. Dead. Jumped her and she ran for a few minutes, but then died again. Got a new battery and put it in and she started up fine, but then the ABS warning light came on, the Airbag warning light went on and off a few times, the head and interior lights brightened when I stepped on the gas, and in Drive the car felt like I was driving her in 2nd. Gave up for the night and went back out today and back to square one. No turnover, nothing. Dead. Help! :confuse:
  • bbach1961bbach1961 Member Posts: 1
    I have a wierd electric problem with my 1998 Maxima SE. I'm driving along and my A/C, most of my guages and my power windows stop working. Usually, this happens when I flip on a blinker. After 10 minutes or so, everything pops back on while I am driving down the road. Sometimes, I can shut the car off, turn it on and it will reset but not always. Where do I start to debug this? -- Bud
  • problem2problem2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi
    i have a escort 96 automatic 5 door. about some days a have the batery lighter on. i change the batery but after 2 day is the same. i put the multimeter to the batery and i have 14.5 when the engine is on. the batery is very hot and have some smell.
    sorry for my english
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i think most auto-supply stores will do a battery / alternator test for you. normally people worry about a battery running low because their alternator isn't charging it, or the battery is old and weak. however, in your case, because the battery is new and very hot, it seems the charging circuit may have a problem - not sure but one would think there would be protection device to clip the output of the alternator above some voltage so it didn't damage the battery. maybe an independant shop can help you there.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The speed sensor in the differential is for the ABS system.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    If the odometer is working the cable must be good. I would suspect an internal problem in the speedo unit itself.
  • chevexpresschevexpress Member Posts: 3
    My 1999 Chev Express G1500 full size van with 97,000 miles has begun to emit a high pitched whine that sounds like a Dentist's Drill. The static / noise is audible only after the engine has been running for 20 or 30 minutes or more and the noise is in exact rhythm of the engine rev's (going up with RPMs on Acceleration, going down with RPMs on deceleration and noise holds steady at cruising speed). The noise gets louder when I turn the headlights on, and the noise can be heard through my radar detector---yes coming from my radar detector up on the windshield---and also through only my rear stereo speakers (rear channels only for some crazy reason, not the front) and the dome lights dim in sequence with the rising, falling of RPM's but that could be simply normal generator inefficiencies at not keeping current steady). This problem started co-incidentally only after U-Haul installed a trailer hitch with wiring harness tied into my taillights. They have since re-wired the 3 to 2 wire conversion hitch pigtail for GM products after we discovered that one brake light was always on and one turn signal had stopped working following the hitch installation. Now the taillights work properly but the audio whine is still present and I still suspect the whine may have been caused by the U-Haul trailer wiring harness installation, because the noise had not presented itself until after that work was done, but I can't ask them to troubleshoot it if it turns out to be a coincidence.

    One friend suspects it could be my GM AM-FM radio/integrated security alarm gone bad, and I additionally suspect a bad spark plug wire because it only starts happening when the engine gets warm after driving 30 to 60 miles, and the van has nearly 100,000 miles (about time for an expensive tune up with new ignition wires).

    Once the engine is warm, the whine doesn't go away but can be quieted drastically (but not completely) by turning off the headlights. It drives me crazy listening to the high speed rpm-whine. (What a strange array of symptoms---only with warm engine, louder when headlights are on---sound is sympathetic to engine rpms----and whine comes through my radar detector, but when I unplug the radar detector it comes through my rear car radio speakers----even if the radio is OFF!)

    Yes I have unplugged the power cord to the Radar Detector, and turned the GM AM/FM Radio off, and the noise still comes through this conversion van's rear speakers. Turning the headlights on makes the whining sound much louder, turning the headlights off reduces the sound to almost inaudible but not quite.

    Maybe a poor ground somewhere? I am open to suggestions on how to trace this and fix it. It must be RF (radio frequency) because the Radar Detector is really just a radio receiver itself. Thank you in advance for any help.
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    I'm gonna get this in the correct forum by my next birthday of which I'll be 77 yr's young or die trying. Huh. Here's the shortest version of my problem. I have centered the problem in the fuse block area. Now let's stay away from discussing the door switches. The main light switch, the roll dimmer switch etc. Here's where it stands as of now. Pulling the 20-amp courtesy light fuse want cut them off. Pulling the horn 20-amp fuse will shut them off, but I lose my horn, and radio. That fuse is located just above the courtesy light fuse. If no other thought's on this how much trouble is it to remove the fuse block? Pull it and inspect it. It really look's tough to do. Thank's, Bozie
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sounds like alternator interference. A radio shop should be able to correct this.
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    Come on Guy's @ Doll's give me some help. It's hot out there. Some one should help me solve my courtesy light problem. I'm down to re-moving the fuse block, thinking it may be a cross short between the radio-horn fuse and the courtesy light fuse. You pull the courtesy light fuse the light's want go off. Pull the radio-horn fuse they go off. Should I pull the block and how much trouble is it to pull. Look's hard to do to me. There is a firewall main line plug to the back of the block under hood-fact is a couple of plugs. Then as I can see a couple of screw's or more holding the block under the dash. Maybe more work than that. What your view on this. Waiting for a good answer ASAP- Thank's Bozie
  • morr1smorr1s Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Jimmy SLS 4.3L 4 wheel drive. About 4 years ago the check engine light came on and I replaced all three O2 sensors. About 6 months later the check engine light came on and it was the O2 sensors again. I have been driving it without any problems but now it won't pass the new New York State inspection. I brought it to a mechanic and he originally thought it might be the wiring harness, but instead he changed the map sensor. I drove about 15 miles and the engine light came back on. I don't want to get caught up replacing parts I don't need trying to figure this out.
    I also have problems sometimes when it rains my car will barely move unless I let up on the gas and then press it again.
    It's probably unrelated, but also about 2 weeks ago I started blowing my fuse which controls the courtesy lights, rear hatch and horn. At first I could change the fuse and it would last a few days. Today I blew three in a row and they sparked as soon as I put them in.
    My mechanic's original guess was I might have a leak in my wiring harness.
    Thanks in advance for any assistance.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I think you have a ground problem. This causes 'feedback' through circuits which should not be flowing current.

    Where that problem might be ????? I don't have any help for you.....
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    Hey you great men and women of knowledge! Where's the help? Been posting this problem for several day's now and haven't gotten but one tincy-wincy bite and had tried that one already. #395 this page. All day's work yesterday produced a faulty door jam switch. Gonna replace it today. One connection wire was not connected and the contnunity showed bad. Let you know if that switch solves the problem. I have little faith that it will. I still believe it is somewhere in a lap-over in the fuse's for the horn and courtesy lights. Thank's Bozie
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    TO BOLIVAR-Reply: You know you might just hit the nail on the head with the ground problem. Maybe this doorjam switch I'm replacing today might just solve the problem. Just gotta fix it and see. Thank's Bozie
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Hey Bozie - you might want to post your question in the Chevy Tahoe discussion as well. Sometimes it takes a couple of days for the right person to come along that has the answer, especially on older vehicles.
  • pkrdfairpkrdfair Member Posts: 3
    I currently own a 2002 Chrysler T&C LXi with 3.8 liter. My electrical problems started when one morning my van would'nt start. The local shop diagnosed it with a computer as having a bad ECM. They replaced that. The vehicle had no problems for about a week and then the same identical thing happened. No start problem. I had it towed in (the tow truck driver also couldn't start it) The shop started it immediately upon arrival and then checked the starter, battery, neutral safety switch and ignition wiring and found no problems. It continiued to start for them with no problems. I picked up the vehicle, took it on vacation and also had no problems. This last time I saw the ABS lite come on (which I had also noticed intermittently on the prior times) As soon as i shut the vehicle off it would not restart. As i began to analyze all occurrences it dawned on me that the abs lite was on prior to all three occurrences and also i had noticed that the seat belt lite had been flickering on and off at different times (although this didnt necessarily happen before the no start problem) This time the shop noticed that the fuse was blown for the ABS circuit. As soon as they replaced the ABS fuse the van started. This was noto necessary the prior two times. The shop checked the ABS module (it was O.K.) and checked wiring (said it was O.K. too) they don't know what else to try. They told me that they would just be "throwing parts at it" at this point. Any suggestions or input would be helpful.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If the ABS light has been on, I would think it would have stored error message, just like the 'check engine light' does. On some cars, the ABS circuit is different from the usual place where error codes are checked.

    I think you are saying a non-dealership shop has been working on this vehicle. ABS problems are sometimes complicated, so I recommend you take this problem to a Chrysler dealer.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you don't have the vehicle's wiring diagram in front of you, you are working blind on this. So that would be a good acquisition at this point. This way you can test the logic of your assumptions.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    He does have the vehicle's wiring diagram in front of him, I posted it 5 days ago here:

    alcan, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1700, 17 Jul 2005 12:56 am

    What I got told was:

    "I have centered the problem in the fuse block area. Now let's stay away from discussing the door switches. The main light switch, the roll dimmer switch etc".

    I've already told him what to check and how to fix it, AND posted the circuit diagram, but he obviously knows better than I do. I'm not going to waste any more of my time on his problems.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    okay, fair enough....you know how it is with electrical systems diagnostics....you have to be fastidious and as careful as Sherlock himself....guessing only drives you crazy....the diagram is great because it can tell you if your "guess" has any chance of being right (for instance, if one were assuming connectivity between two circuits which don't in fact, have any connectivity).
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    DON'T GET HOT UNDER THE COLLAR- Mr. Shiftright-The suggestions you made, I had already checked out. I did down load and print the electrical lay out and this has only helped in that I don't have to get under the dash to see where each fuse is. If this message doesn't hatefully inspire you , you could respond on the difficulity of removing the fuse block- from 1 to 10. 10 being th most difficult-If this doesn't discolor your panty little heart. Bozie, Thank's
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    Mr. Shiftright did not.DID NOT tell me how to fix the courtesy light problem. He did put a schematic for printout on the reply. Of course that only show's the wiring diagram and where the possiable trouble is in the different switchs that are connected to that wiring. If all this switch's are working fine as far as conninuty, it leaves the one or two thing's left. Direct ground in the wiring run-or a crossover in the fuse block. What's your bet? Bozie, Thank's
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "If this doesn't discolor your panty little heart"

    Actually, Mr.Shiftright didn't post the diagram and information, I did. I believe you owe him an apology. One last piece if advice, even if the fuse box faries did come and do a rewiring job on your fuse panel it wouldn't cause the problem you have. The courtesy light circuit is supposed to be powered at all times, and the lights are turned on when one of the door switches or headlight switch completes the circuit to ground. Remove both door jamb switches and verify no inadvertent grounds. If the lights are still on then unplug the connector at the headlight switch, assuming yu don't have the knob turned all the way to on. If the lights are still on, then look for a broken wire shorted to ground in one of the looms between the doors and the body, usually the driver's side.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm not even WEARING a collar....geez, I'll just back out of the room here....

    Anyway, you listen to alcan. I'm not a mechanic. You listen to me and you'll only burn your truck down.
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    O K I'll eat my word's and apologise to Mr. Shiftright. But here's the story up to date. I have already replaced the door jam switch on the driver's side with a new one. But the old one checked out good on continunty. So I procceded to go into the switch on the passenger side, removing the heater bafffle vaccum control and procced to remove the switrch. Finding that there was only one wire attached. The other wire is yet to be found. The connecting clip to that switch looked as tho. nothing has been attached and that switch did not have continunity. I put the good switch in place of it. There was a so-called problem tho. High up in the work hole I could see and feel a white wire that was extended with a coupler comming from the wiring harness and going to the top of the baffle panel which I did not remove the top screw because of the difficulity getting to it. (Man it was Hot) I'm 76-yr's young. Anyway this wire seemed as tho. it might be jammed under the vaccum control attachment flange where the one bolt I didn't remove was at. This wire seemed as tho.it was stuck. This is a possiability that over the year's the metal could have cut through and caused a ground there. But why wasn't there 2-wires there. Why is the current comming from the horn-radio-and not the correct fuse. Why is my cargo-bed light working just fine. Thank's to you both, alcan @ Mr. Shiftright
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "Anyway this wire seemed as tho. it might be jammed under the vaccum control attachment flange where the one bolt I didn't remove was at. This wire seemed as tho.it was stuck. This is a possiability that over the year's the metal could have cut through and caused a ground there."

    You might be on the right track there. If you go back to the wiring diagram I posted, you'll see that there's a single white wire from a common splice going to each door jamb switch, either of which can provide the ground for the courtesy lights. So, only one wire, and if either is grounded you have a complete circuit. Also, the diagram shows that although the the cargo bed light is supplied current from the same fuse, it has a separate ground. It's identified in the diagram as I/P Compartment Box Lamp.
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