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They (Toyota HQ in CA) called and sent a letter. I then called them back, talked to a rep, again expressed my concerns and they are giving me $400 in credit (rotors and brakes cost me ~$500) towards future service at any Toyota dealer (good for 1 year). I don't really want to go back to the dealer, but ....
My brothers both told me to have my calipers checked, so I'm bringing it in tomorrow.
Will post more with caliper results.
after this happened i realized that i had had the same cold slow speed stalling situation for a couple of weeks. this resolved the stalling and the check engine light.
a year later the stalling started again. also it is really bad if you have a cold engine and have the a/c on. anyway i checked the air filter and it was dirty. i cleaned the MAS and everything is fine again.
i think the older engine is more sensitive to dirty air cleaners and old MAS units. my o2 sensor also may be old and that might be part of the problem?
also i dont know if you had the 'stutter problem' around 30,000miles but i had the head replaced on my engine under warranty. the stutter would take place cruising on the highway. acted like the engine shut off for a second. it was the computer sensors on the valves.
also never touch the MAS sensors just spray them. the wires will break really easily.
watch the power drain on the accessories you plug in!
For the past several weeks, I have been getting *terrible* mileage. For example, I was at full yesterday morning. I went a couple miles down the road to drop my son off at day camp, drove the maybe 3 miles to work, repeated the process at the end of the day, and now I am at 3/4 tank. This is absolutely insane. For the past 5+ years, I have just waved at gas stations as I drove by, and only stopped at them occasionally.
All of the "normal" causes don't seem to be panning out here. I am religious about oil changes, and air filter changes. My plugs were just replaced a year ago, and re-checked this weekend. My injectors and such did need to be cleaned again, and they did a full chemical cleaning on them this weekend along with the throttle body and boot around it. No change. The only other things I can think of would be maybe an O2 sensor, but that should throw a code and my engine light has not come on. My step-dad thought that maybe the thermostat could be bad, which would cause the computer to think the engine was colder than it really was, and give it more gas. But the shop I had it at this weekend said they wouldn't be able to tell by checking it if anything was wrong with it.
I just can't think of anything else... and with gas as expensive as it is now, I have really got to figure this out. Does anyone have any ideas??
Thanks!
-gina-
Any halfway decent shop can check the coolant operating temperature for you to see if it is getting hot enough. My guess is, it isn't - not even close.
Now I would also be suspicious of the work done recently if your problems started right after - are all the plugs properly reconnected, and were any of the electrical connectors broken in the process? A plug not firing would cause a significant drop in fuel economy.
Also check that you are not LEAKING gas - a rock thrown up by the road perhaps, or a leaking fuel line. If the drop in mpgs is as enormous as you say, underhood possibilities may be insufficient to explain it, and you may have to look at other things.
Finally, if they messed with the throttle body boot, check that they didn't crack it. If air can get in through a crack, it will cause the engine computer to make the mixture super-rich to compensate for all the extra air, which can waste a lot of gas in a short timespan.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
As for the cool temp light, it still comes on for a few seconds when I start the car, and then that's it. The possibility of gas leaking definitely scares me... how would they check for that? I just like going into a shop armed with a bit of knowledge. Sad to say, but most shops still see dollar signs and think "easy prey" when they see a girl walk in. My dad raised me better than that, though. :-)
-gina-
The little blue dash light will turn off as soon as the coolant warms up even a little, so the fact that it is going out does NOT mean that the car is reaching normal operating temperature.
If you told this shop that you had an enormous drop in fuel economy, and their response was to do an injector and throttle body cleaning? (!!!) Go to a different shop. They are just trying to take your money.
Have the new shop check for codes on the computer, just to make sure the check engine light is not malfunctioning. Have them warm up the car and check that the coolant is coming to normal operating temperature. Almost certainly, your culprit will lie in one of those two.
Perhaps you could try going to the dealer? But wherever you go, be very specific: you have brought the car in because ALL OF A SUDDEN, your gas mileage has gone WAY DOWN.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks again!
As far as the best brand, there is no single answer. I like Michelins and Toyos - Michelins are more expensive but will pay you back in lots of little ways like lasting longer, losing less air in normal operation, while providing a good balance of handling, traction, and noise. Toyos are a less pricey brand, but still a good tire, and that is the brand I have on my Echo. They make a Toyo Spectrum which has great traction and decent handling, isn't too noisy, and has a 65K-mile treadwear warranty.
I generally avoid the Korean tires (Hankook, Kumho, and others) because they were less than great years ago, but I hear they have improved their act in the last few years, and you will be able to get a better price on those usually.
I believe a lot of Toyota cars are sold from the dealer with Bridgestone tires, which is another decent middle-of-the-road brand where you should be able to find a lower price and hopefully a sale.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Rather than wait until the clutch totally fails to work, what can I do? What should I tell my mechanic, what is needed for parts and labor, and how long should it take? You help is appreciated. Thank you.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Even on a small light car like this, 40K miles would be pretty darn good if it's an automatic, especially for mostly suburban use without a lot of highway miles. Even for a manual it is decent, but not outstanding in that case.
Why did they replace the rotors as well? That's a pretty good price for pads AND rotors, but I wouldn't expect the rotors to need replacing after only 40K miles, UNLESS you let the pads go until they were gone and it was metal on metal.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I contacted Toyota HQ to see if this was a known problem (I have a 2002 ECHO that I bought new in 12/01) but they said it isn't. I wrote them a lengthy letter and they agreed to reimbuse me $400 of the $500 I spent to have the work done at the dealer (I will be reimbursed when I spend $400 at the dealer in a one year period and send them copies of my receipts). At this point I am only continuing to have service done at the dealer long enough to get $400 worth of work done and then I will never use the dealer service dept. again.
Anyhow, if you look back in archives in April or May, you will find my story. :-)
Hope this helps,
JW
My valve lifters are noisy and is there any reliable chemical
I can use that is not snake oil?
BYW, I have switched to Castrol synthetic oil and K+N oil
filters and I am very happy.
Now, I just need to put in the iridium spark plugs...
Man, tires are getting expensive these days. The high cost
of gasoline?
I have a 2001 Echo and would like to get a copy of your Workshop Manual.
Thanks,
JW
Anyone know if I need special tools and what is involved????
Thanks for your help,
Jerry
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks!
Thank you
Other than brakes what else have you had to do to your Echo?
PS Mine is also an '02, first registered for the road in October '02.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)