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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair

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  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    According to the service manual the bearings are integral to the hub assembly. So I doubt it can be rebuilt. Looks like an easy on - off though. Remove the wheel, drum, then four bolts. Wire for ABS if you have it. Must press ABS sensor out and into the new hub. It would be easy to get this part off in the junkyard. Definately a DIY.
  • dsemerydsemery Member Posts: 5
    You forget the brake parts, they all transfer to the new assembly, hopefully with new shoes. Hmm, maybe that is covered in 'remove...drum'

    I would consider junk yard part except for two problems - most of the junkyards hereabouts dont see any echos; how long is the used part gonna be good for? This problem has been evident for some time now, only lately has the rumble gotten louder.

    Anyway, the issues in rebuilding are three that I forsee - can one get inside, are the balls/cones and inner races standar4d parts, and are the outer races sufficiently hardened to have survived operating with degraded bearings.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Go online and search for used parts. You will get junkyard sites. Specify what you want. They will advise what they have and give you a price. Send a credit card number and they send it. Simple. I think it is unusual for this part to wear out. In any case its easy relatively to change.
    You do not need to disturb the rear brakes to get the hub off. Remove the wheel. Remove the drum. Remove the four bolts holding the hub. Bolt the new hub in place. Simple. Only complication arises if you have ABS. But you say you dont. Good luck! Tell us what happens!
  • rep5858rep5858 Member Posts: 45
    I was driving a few blocks. The the car started to hesitate, buck, and seem trans was slipping. At this time the check engine light came on.
    Had my mechanic find the code. It came up speed sensor. He erased it. What is a speed sensor? Should I replce it? Will this happen again without replacement?

    Also, I have been towing a boat( 500 pounds max combined weight boat, motor, trailer) should I replace trans fluid, filter?

    Thanks in advance,
    Rick
  • rep5858rep5858 Member Posts: 45
    I have a 2001 echo. 155,000 miles. When do I change the automatic transmission fluid? It says only under certain harsh conditions in maintenance manual. I tow a light boat maybe 5 times a season.
    thanks
    rick
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    There is like 8 quarts of oil in your auto trans. I would leave it alone. If they remove the drain pan and replace the filter it will only change about 2 quarts. Not enough to make a difference. If you let them hook it up to a machine that replaces ALL the oil they might screw up your car doing it. I would leave it alone. Towing your boat so infrequently is nothing to your car.
    Yes the light may come on again. If you give me the code number Ill look it up. CELS can mean something nad will happen or nothing will happen. But you need to check it out.
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    I wouldn't leave it alone. I drained the AT fluid once a year and everytime there were exactly 3 quarts to refill (Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF).

    Paid the lube place 20 bucks each time for labor and I feel it was worth it.

    Just 2 weeks ago I sold my 2001 Echo with 169K miles and the Toyota dealership was very impressed with the transmission (and the rest of the car). It still shifted like new.

    The dealership manager purchased the car for his daughter (for University).
  • rep5858rep5858 Member Posts: 45
    Can I tow a boat/ trailer( 500 pounds total) 150 miles? Will trans be ruined? Good idea or not?
    Thanks
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Thee is a lot more than 3 quarts of oil in the wuto trans. Its in the torque converter where it cant be drained by removing the pan. To "change" the oil you need to tap into the oil circuit. You feed the new oil in one line and remove the old oil out another with the engine running. If the "technician" does something wrong, you got problems. The owners manual says changeing the oil is, in most cases, unnecessary. Generally you change it because of contamination. The 1979 pickup truck I gave my brother in law has 350,000 miles on it. The auto trans is origional and so is its oil.
    Here is a passage from the owners manual:
    Using automatic trnasmission fluid other that Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV may cause deterioation in shift quality, locking up of your transmission accompanied by vibration, and ultimately dammage the transmission of you vehicle.
    Probably BS but who knows?
  • younggeezeryounggeezer Member Posts: 2
    Hi. New here.

    My 2001 Echo 4-door had an overheating episode.
    It was in a wreck in 2002, also a minor one
    earlier this year. I have a feeling that the body
    shop(s) neglected to reinstall the auxiliary
    cooling fan, or perhaps for some unknown reason
    the car never had one. I just drove from
    Tennessee to Iowa with no problems, but on a
    short trip up here she shut down. (It was low on
    coolant also). Perhaps I am lucky to still have a
    car, but what I want to know is shouldn't I have
    one of these fans? Doesn't every Asian car made
    since the Carter administration have one?

    I am also interested to know if anyone has
    installed a coolant temperature gauge and what
    kind of a gig it was. It is scary not knowing
    when you are about to boil over.

    Thanks,

    Younggeezer
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    Kneisl1:

    I know that the AT holds more than 3 qts of ATF but that is the exact number of quarts you need when just using the drain plug.

    I know all the BS Toyota says about using anything other than Type T-IV fluid.

    In my case, I have been using Amsoil for the last 5 years (yearly drain and fills) and the transmission shifts the same as when it was new. The fluid I was using is quite a bit superior to what Toyota claims is unique and irreplaceable.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Yes there is a fan. It right behind the radiator if you look. Dont look when the car is hot cause it might turn on! It wont go on when youre moving. But the car wont idle without one esp if its hot out. So I think you have a fan but you were just low on coolant.
    Your warning lights will work just as well and tell you of trouble. If you just had a gauge you would have to look at it all the time. If you dont...blown engine! Youre ECHO is modern and computerized and is always looking out for itself. I dont think it needs a gauge. Thee is a gizmo which plugs into the computer which will tell you everything about your car. I forgt its name maybe somebody knows.
  • jmrbkjmrbk Member Posts: 18
    I took my 2002 ECHO (~48,000 miles) in to an oil change shop to get a new air filter put in but the book they referred to gave them the wrong number. The filter it said to use won't fit an ECHO. Can anyone tell me brand/number of air filters that it takes? Or should I just take it to the dealer to have them change it? Seems like getting a new air filter shouldn't be so ding dang hard! :D
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I have no reservations in recommending you purchase your ECHOs air filter from the dealer. Its $12. Its an excellent filter far better than anything I have ever seen before. I get mine there and I am so cheap I squeek when I walk. I use Purolator oil filters on my ECHO I get for 99 cents each at Pep Boys on sale. But I use the Toyota air filter. It lasts 30k miles. I hate to think what Toyota will charge you to change it though. Can you do it yourself?
  • jmrbkjmrbk Member Posts: 18
    I'll have to do it myself ... or take it to the oil change shop .... or corner one of my brothers. Thanks for the heads up. I'll check at the dealer.
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    It's the scangauge. See www.scangauge.com
  • dsemerydsemery Member Posts: 5
    kneisl1 said - I think it is unusual for this part to wear out.

    Thank you for the reply, sorry I have been busy at work and unable to rereply before today.

    Not sure what you are thinking about, but the part in question is the assembly including the rear wheel bearing- moving parts which are guaranteed to wear out at some point. In older cars I have owned, using un-sealed bearings, one re-greases them around 50-60k miles and replacement of the bearings innards at the same time is considered wise.

    At my milage, this part is no longer covered by warantee. Hand-rotation suggests wear, and that implies replacement lest a bearing disintegrate and lock up a wheel at highway speed.

    I inspected my rear brakes last month and observed the assembly, but didnt attempt to remove it. I got the impression that the brakes are mounted, but could have been wrong. Pity there is no printed shop manual for this car (I am aware of the CD manual, havent located a vendor for it).
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I meant that were you to remove the part from a low mileage car (as a lot of ECHOs would be) it would probably be OK.
    I have the printed shop manual. It does show that the rear bakes need not be disturbed to remove the assembly.
  • younggeezeryounggeezer Member Posts: 2
    OK, I found the fan, I was expecting a second one.

    As for the scanguage, I'd rather pay $169.95 to my very honest mechanic back home who would then fix it once and for all; however I am away from home for 3 more weeks and I hope to get home in this car, so I am needing to research and be armed with as much information as possible when I go to some strange mechanic up here.

    Last night I went out driving and after 10 minutes straight the temp. light came on and the car balked. If, as kneisl1 says, the fan only comes on when the car is not moving, doesn't this sound like a stuck thermostat? (the car has almost 100k on it and it's a stick shift). Or is there possibly some electrical gremlin at work?

    Thanks for your help,

    younggeezer
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    You mean you were moving continuously at a substantial speed, and the light came on? In that case the fan has nothing to do with it. Yes, you may have a stuck thermostat, although usually you would see it overheat sooner in that case. You may also have a leak - you did check that the radiator is topped up when it is cold, right? And then again you may have a clogged up radiator.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Could be the water pump alo. It could be a bad belt on the wp also. The water pump is driven by the flat of the belt not the V side. So it might be slipping. Check the belt for a fast possible fix.
  • echohatchmanechohatchman Member Posts: 2
    hey, i have a manual transmission hatchback which is working great, 155 000 kms. The check engine light came on last weekend and I'm wondering what experience anybody has had with their '04 echo.The car still seems to be running great. :confuse: I assume the sedan is the same as the hatch (?). Is there a problem i should know about? I change the oil regularly and keep an eye on all the fluid levels. I would be interested in hearing if anybody has something to share. Thanks!
  • confusion9confusion9 Member Posts: 2
    Strange thing happened to my little 2001 Echo. I've had it since 70,000 miles, now it's 132,000. The other day i was driving it and the overheat light came on for the first time ever, and shortly after that the "check engine" light went on. I found out the code for the "check engine" light and it said it was a "cooling circuit failure", so i replaced the coolant sensor and the light went away. Problem solved, right? Nope. The engine still overheats after driving for about 5 minutes, but the check engine light has not come back on. The coolant is topped off, the resevoir filled to the line, and the fan works fine. One curious thing is that i had the water pump replaced about 1 week prior to the incident, though no strange sounds coming from the water pump or any apparent leakage. Any guesses?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Hmm since it overheats about the time you would expect the engine to be warmed up, I would first check the operation of the thermostat. Also, the water pump is turned by the flat, back side of the alternator belt. This is nuts and its easy for the belt to slip and not turn the pump. So i would also check to make sure the belt is tight on the water pump. Tell us what happens!
  • echohatchmanechohatchman Member Posts: 2
    got my check engine light problem resolved, interesting...apparently a hose in the air filter compartment wasn't returned to the right spot (after some dude at mr lube tried to sell me one) also..and this is weird...there was rust around the gas filler neck that wasn't allowing the cap to seat correctly causing some air pressure problems in the gas system??? weird. i have the codes if anybody would be interested in them...
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    A non sealing gas cap is a common cause of CEL problems. Howd they fix the rust?
  • knick33knick33 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had an issue with a high pitch screeching noise from the engine when the AC is on. The sound comes and goes but it gets rather loud. Once you turn off AC the sound goes away. I am assuming it's an adjustment to on of the pullys. Can anyone give me pictures or instructions on how to fix problem? Thanks
  • thorin192thorin192 Member Posts: 2
    My fiance has a 2002 echo automatic. Recently it has started making a clicking noise when you hit the brakes. It will only make the noise when the car is in park and running and the click sounds like it is coming from inside the shifter area on the floor. I have no clue what it might be. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Check the belt tension to see if it is loose...also check if the inside of the belt is "glazed" (shiny from slippage).

    If you can determine that it is an idler pulley that is making noise, you'll have to replace it because the bearing is shot.

    so the only "adjustment" would be a belt adjustment.
  • kvosslerkvossler Member Posts: 1
    My husband is trying to replace a water pump on my 2000 toyota echo. He is having a hard time getting it out. Is there any way to get the pump out? Is there an easy way to get the new pump in? Thanks!
  • confusion9confusion9 Member Posts: 2
    Thanx for the help. Actually it turned out to be a faulty brand new water pump (cracked propellor). So they are replacing it for free, and i'm upgrading to the genuine toyota part. Thanx again, this forum is really useful for a car that has no existing repair manual (why is that?).
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    There is a repair manual and I have a copy. I will answer any questions anyone might have about it.
  • rjgeerjgee Member Posts: 27
    1 click, each time you hit the brake right???

    It's just a relay, doing its job (brake has to be pressed to shift out of park).. Now, everyone is going to be hearing it :)
  • thorin192thorin192 Member Posts: 2
    Yep 1 click each time. Thanks. I just recently started driving her echo and had never heard it before.
  • good4good4 Member Posts: 2
    I was wondering how I could obtain the repair manual. Can kneisl1 inform me how best to obtain on? I have a 2001 Echo that will soon be needing a waterpump and belt replacement. Thanks for any assistance. :)
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Its an official Toyota manaul and I belive I ordered it from a phone number I got in my owners manual. In any case you should be able to get one from Toyota. I recall they are like $140!
  • blu_zephyrblu_zephyr Member Posts: 2
    This is my first post so please excuse any blunders I make.
    We recently acquired a 2001 ECHO my daughter in law had gotten into an accident with. My husband has done all the work of fixing it himself. We thought it was ready to go, but a minor complication has arisen and we have found it all but impossible to get any information on. The battery will die overnight because it is trying to activate the transmission solenoids even though the ignition and everything else is off.
    Do you have any suggestions?
    Thanx, blu_zephyr
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Disconnect the battery when you park the car. Connect it up again when you wish to use it. Unfortunately I cant offer any other advice. Youll have to take the car to a pro and I fear that will be terribly expensive.
  • rjgeerjgee Member Posts: 27
    How did you confirm that it was the tranmission solenoids?
    Sounds like an odd problem, but wiring issues can be a $#@!.

    Where was the car hit? (might provide a clue as to what to look for)
    When repairing, did your husband have to do any electrical wiring work?
  • blu_zephyrblu_zephyr Member Posts: 2
    Thank you and the other gentleman for answering my post. I was at a loss as to what to do.
    My husband took out the solenoids one at a time and tested them. They all seemed to work. I think we have determined it might be the relays. I had pointed them out early on but he had dismissed it because I am not a mechanic. I had only guessed it might be the relays because the plastic housing box they were in was a little tweaked from the crash. Then an mechanic suggested he check them and when he did the buzzing and clicking noises ceased.
    The car had been hit in the front. No, he did not have to do any rewiring mostly it was cosmetic stuff.
    Thank you again, I am looking forward to driving the Blu Zephyr (my nickname for it, it means gentle breeze.)
    The trunk looks big enough to hold all my camping gear especially if I drop the back seats down.
  • dealechodealecho Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2000 Echo, 4dr, green, and LOVE IT! It has 215,000 and stil runs like a champ.

    We have had a recent outbreak of engine lights!

    We are looking for a diagram that shows where the timing belt is, i have found great pictures but have not seen one with labels!

    We are trying to win a bet with a friend!

    Any help would be great!

    Please post here or you can email me, kat, at dmbjunkie4life@yahoo.com or my hubby at goingdowntheriver@yahoo.com

    THANKS!
    Kat :)
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    The ECHO doesnt have a timing belt. It has a chain. Congradulations on the good luck you have had so far with your ECHO!
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    Even chains need replacing one in a while. At about 250k miles I would have the timing chain inspected. If it breaks the damage would be high in an interference engine.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Good point. I would have thought that might have happened by now!
  • dealechodealecho Member Posts: 2
    infact thats why we asked....we are confussed because every time we have searched this out we get photo of a timing belt and not a chain for the echo!

    thanks for all the advice!

    and congratulations on all you echos!
  • ehoward1ehoward1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 echo, 4 door, manual tran. Where is the belt tensioner located for the power steering belt and how does it work? Any help is appreciated...
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    You access the PS belt tensioner by jacking up the front of the car (right side) and removing the wheel. Make sure the car is on a jackstand and you know how to use one! You must crawl under the car without the wheel in place...a potentially dangerous (fatal) proposition! The adjustment is made loosening two nuts/bolts on the PS pump, which is to the rear of the engine. Then you lever the pump to tighten the belt and tighten the nuts/bolts. There is no automatic adjuster. Are you having belt squealing problems?
  • ehoward1ehoward1 Member Posts: 3
    No belt squealing problems, just wanted to change the belts on my Echo since i have a little over 100K miles and those are the origional belts. They look a little dry and cracked. It appears the alt/ac belt can be removed by loosening the alterator bracket but i wasn't sure about the ps belt. I will give it a try (with jack stands of course)
    Thankyou for your help
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    Considering that the cost of labor is only about $ 40 I would go with an independent mechanic. Let him risk his head as he is getting paid to do so. (I am talking about the jack stands you won't need).
  • ehoward1ehoward1 Member Posts: 3
    point well taken...i'll consider that option.
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