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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair

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  • Went to Auto Zone and they said it was number one cylinder misfire. Changed spark plugs with no change. Plugs looked really worn. What's next? Bad miss on acceleration.

    Drained gas and refueled yesterday with complete gumout.
    :confuse:
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Did they tell you the code number? Did you see any water/dirt in the gas?
    P0301
    Book says:

    open or short in engine wire
    connector connection (i assume this means the sparkplug connector)
    vacuum hose connection
    ignition system
    injector
    fuel pressure
    egr system
    manifold pressure sensor
    coolant temp sensor
    valve clearance'
    ECM

    Have you had any work done lately on the car? If so look at what was done.
    You can check the wiring as far as possible to the plugs and also the vacuum line around the engine. Pretty hard to do the rest of it. A garage that you trust may be necessary!
  • I was recently given a 2000 Toyota Echo, 1.5L 5Sp 2Dr. The car ran great, until under heavy load. IE, flooring the car resulted in loosing speed, the vehicle would even sometimes die. My first theory was a clogged fuel filter, being as the car does have 165,000 and has never had hardly any work done to it. Upon researching for the location of the fuel filter, however, i found that it is located on top of the fuel pump inside the fuel tank, and is accessed via an access panel that can be found under the rear seat. Supposidly a lifetime filter, and should never need replaced. Sounds like a load of BS to me but none the less, i considered an alternative problem. Mind you, the check engine light has not illuminated. The only previous shop experience had a problem with the mass airflow sensor. Located on top of the air filter housing, and removable by two philips head screws, i decided i would inspect it. The wire inside the sensor was intact, but I took an online sugguestion and cleaned it. Immediately the vehicle now runs just like it did when it was new. There was a very slight coat of dirt on the sensor wire and sensor tip, and this must have been enough just to mess up the reading, not enough to trigger the check engine light, as the value must not have been completely out of spec to trigger a code. Nor was the sensor actually faulty, which also would have triggered a light. I hope someone else finds this information useful, i had found a lot of postings about this problem with the echos, but no one said anything about not having a check engine light on and the vehicle still running fine, just hesitating and dieing on heavy acceleration. The previous repairs also affirm that this should be a common issue with this car. Just wonder how many others out there have a similar style sensor with similar problems. Now onto the cooling fan problem! lol.

    2000 with roughly 165,000 miles. Heavy use.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    The car doesnt have a KN air filter by any chance? Excellent post hope people find it usefull solving their problems. Definately one of the first things to check out when the engine isnt running right.
  • I was thinking the same thing--if the car has a K&N filter, get rid of it.
  • I've found some of my vehicles, especially in very hot weather, miss and stall if I put in ethanol mixed gasoline. Could the gas you put in be one of these blends????

    denis
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    All gas these days has ethanol mixed into it.
  • To kneisl1... Perhaps where you come from you may not be able to buys "good" gas
    BUT here in Alberta I think there are only one company that offers ethanol blends.. Mohawk. PetroCan, Esso, Shell and the whole bunch of no-name stations usually have only the "real" gasoline. I have no problem filling up my motorcycle.

    /denis
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Lucky you! Still I dont see the problems you describe being caused by alcohol in the gas. Our mileage here in the US is 2-3 mpg lower because that crap is sold by everyone everyplace!
  • Opps! :cry: I forgot to mention that I get the problems with ethanol blends only when I put it in my old 1994 Mercury Sable stationwagon and only on very HOT days (30C or 86F) when my tank is less that half full.
    I don't know what age of car is able to handle the blends better.... and of course there are the special F55(?) motors that are designed to take it.

    I think my it is likely pre-ignition / vapour locks because of the ethanol etc. When it quits I have a spray bottle and have to spray down the fuel lines, injector lines etc and after 5 minutes I can drive another 10 minutes or so. If I can make it to a gas station and FILL UP with regular non-blended gas... the problem goes away. It's a pain in the butt, but a managed condition!
  • I have an '02 Echo with 62k miles on it. I noticed a couple of times last week that it took an extra half second to start, but didn't think much of it until this morning when I had to crank it three times to get it to start.

    The first two cranks it turned over nicely but wouldn't fire... I didn't hold it for more than 4-5 seconds. The third time I held it an extra second or two and it started fine.

    I drove it 8 miles on the 4 lane with no issues. Turned it off in the parking lot, started it up 2x in a row with no hesitation. Tested it two more times after church with no hesitation and drove it home.

    I just tested it again now after the car sat in the driveway for 8 hrs and had the same issue - 3-4 seconds of hesitation and then it started up. I turned it off and tried it again with the same result. Tried it a third time pushing the gas pedal down... with gas pedal depressed it started instantly. Tested a 4th time with gas down and got the same result.

    Any ideas? I'm pretty sure it's not battery or electrical. Read some stuff elsewhere that indicates it's some kind of fuel problem. I have a 300 mile drive scheduled for Tuesday so I'm a little nervous. Not sure I can get it into a mechanic tomorrow or not.

    Also, spark plugs were changed last month and it has a new alternator belt. As I said, it doesn't act like a run down battery either... no flickering lights and it cranks well every time.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Is the check engine light on? Take a tour of the engine compartment. Follow every line and every hose and see if you find one disconnected. Possibly one of them was disturbed when the plugs were changed. Take the black plastic valve cover off and check the sparkplugs. Remove one of the plugs and see if its the correct one for an ECHO. See if you find any that were never tightened. Tell us what you find!
  • No codes or lights or anything like that. Wires and cables look fine. Sparkplugs check out too. I've put over 2k miles on it (driving for work) since the plugs were changed so I would have been surprised if there was an issue there.

    I wish I had saved the link, because I'm really curious if it's an issue with low fuel pressure at start. The symptoms described in what I read match my car's symptoms perfectly, but it didn't give any solution other than to hold the gas pedal down for a few seconds before start.
  • Never mind. Should have gone with simplest explanation first. Just completely failed to start (click click click), jumped instantly, and then got gradually harder to start over a period of 15-20 minutes.

    Have taken it to a trusted mechanic and given him a full history of how it was behaving and asked him to check it out thoroughly. I don't have the setup to do it myself. I'll let you guys know if it was anything weird.
  • I'm having the same problem righ now and I've disconnected my radio, hooked it back up and it worked for a very short time then back to nothing. I tried the troubleshooting and I get the code for "nothing wrong". Any ideas?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    The radio (3 in 1) on my sons 2000 ECHO is not working. The numbers come on when you turn it on and he says you can hear the CD spinning. AM/FM turner numbers work. Fuse appears to be good. But no sound comes out. Anyone have this and figure out what it was? How hard to get the radio out? I have the SM but guess what...its doesnt say how to get the radio in and out! Thnaks!
  • Before pulling the radio out, try unseating and then reinserting the plugs on the back of the radio. I think you can get to it from the bottom OR, I've noticed the piece of plastic that forms the part of the dash coming out from the speedometer also easily pops up... maybe you can reach down from there to try the plugins.

    Getting the radio out was surprisingly easy. :) Not having the car in front of me I'll try FOR MEMORY.

    A rectangular front bezel popped off quite well with just slight finger pressure... I did this several times without any plastic breaking! Must attest to the Toyota quality...

    There were three Philips bolts holding the radio in.

    The first bolt was at the end of an obvious bracket extending at an angle down behind the ashtray. Careful with the cig lighter wire... it sort of just dangles there. I disconnected it and taped the end for the duration of the operation.
    The other two bolts were above the radio on the left and right DEEP inside the crack with the top of the opening. A LONG dedicated philips screwdriver with a long shaft worked... the multiscrewdriver was too fat. Re-installng these two were more tricky... I cheated and magnetized the shaft of the screwdriver so the bolts stuck in place and I could carefully guide them into their deeply recessed holes. Other than that I replaced the physically damaged old tape deck in the 2000 Echo with a newer MP3/CD/AM/FM unit from a 2005 Celica and it plugged right in.

    WOW... what a nice unit on the 6 way speakers. Unlike some of the other reports on this forum, I have not experienced any unexplainable great power drain from the unit. HOWEVER, if you crank it up to flesh-massaging vibration levels in only the Accessory mode (motor not running)... those six speakers really suck the energy. You'd better have a good battery or you'll be boosting it to get the car running... or if your lucky, to push it if you have a 5 speed.

    /denis
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Thanks!. Yes first step reseat the plugs. But I think from the diagnostics in the SM the radio is either toast or the signal just isnt getting to the speakers. (possible one of the plugs...) Anyone have any idea what radios from what Toyotas fit?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Just talked to my son on the phone and he says now the radio plays normally. We ran the diagnostic which means turning the acc on (radio off) pressing 1 and 6 on the presets while pressing the CD button 3 times. That gives an error code. (190) Maybe that did something?
  • I had the same problem and it turned out to be one of my rear speaker connection that had been broken by something I put in the trunk and shorting out. I found it when I removed my radio, I just happened to unplug the rear speaker connector first and the radio worked on the front so I looked back there and found the broken connection. Fixed it with electrical tape and it's been good ever since.
    The radio comes out easy pull out the two outer knobs for temp control and then remove the screw under each. Then pull out the whole panel. Remove the ashtray and remove two screws there and two screw above the radio then it pulls right out.
    Good Luck!
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