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Saab 9-3 Sedan

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Comments

  • flick2flick2 Member Posts: 4
    Follow up: I checked with different dealer's service manager who said the same: "10,000 is the minimum required to keep good on the warranty, but we recommend 5,000" Over the years Saab seems to have required changes at 15,000mi intervals then 12,000 mi intervals and now 10,000. I've seen forums where people have complained about engine sludge problems even when following the book starting after about 50,000 mi or more. It cost me $58 for a change so I figure I can afford 2 per year for peace of mind. You're probably good at 10,000 mi if it's all highway, but probably 5,000 would be better if a lot city.
  • eurospecialisteurospecialist Member Posts: 12
    all manufacturers have had this problem recently. Toyota recalled a huge amount of vehicles due to sludge build up.
    The reason being the manufacturers have spread out the maintenence intervals to be competitive and get the "upperhand" on the competition.
    If you are planning on keeping the car for quite a while, don't fall for it. Cut the intervals in half.
    I've been in the Saab and European car business for 10 years and currently own 2 Saabs. I change mine every 5k miles.
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    What i do with my BMW is change my oil twice a year, thinner in winter, thicker in summer. That end up being between 5,000 and 8,000 miles, depending.
  • auburnfan24auburnfan24 Member Posts: 1
    so, i recently purchased my 2004 Saab 9-3 arc...i absolutely love it so far. i used to have a rodeo and wanted to get back to a car...i never even thought about a saab until i found one online at a dealership near me with 32k miles, fact. warrnty., and all the great features for under $15000...i wanted a jetta or a honda for a while so i finally went to look at it...i sat in it and fell in love. I am 6' 4'' and had more room than my SUV!! i loved the black interior and it felt perfect....then i drove it and i knew it was the one...so i bought it and i now have some questions about it!

    1. does the factory warranty cover a new key (i only have one and it works but is in terrible shape) also, drying out of one spot of rubber on the window!
    2. turning the car on, it sputters a tiny bit then runs fine, is that just the turbo kicking in, spark plug issues or what?
    3. it is still cold here in alabama, and on a few bumps and dips, my suspension squeaks. is it just the cold, or should i have it checked?

    Thanks so much!! my saab is amazing great so far!!! i read this forum for hours and you guys really influenced me to get it!! thanks!!!
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    If the car is still under the factory warranty or a CPO warranty, they cover EVERYTHING. My experience has been great with warranty stuff thus far. They don't question anything. If it is under CPO (certified pre-owned) they won't cover the radio, but that is it.

    Keys? That is sort of a wierd thing. Not sure about them. A squeaky suspension? It really should not make any noise. Dude, I live in the twin cities and when it is 25 below zero, mine does no squeak. Sure,it gets stiff as hell, but it does not squeak.

    All you need to do is take it in and ask.

    Congrats on a nice car.
  • swinkswink Member Posts: 4
    I bought my 2005 Saab Linear 9-3 (19k miles) a couple weeks ago from Carmax. Had no problems until I noticed a "squeaking" noise coming from either the front or the back while sitting in traffic. I noticed it only did it after the car had been running on the highway for about 20 minutes. Otherwise, no noise. I took the car back to Carmax, of course the car didn't make the noise, they checked the front end--couldn't find anything. Took the car home, noticed it again. Took it back to Carmax, but this time, had the service manager ride with me until the noise started again. It didn't do it at first, but finally did after the engine was warm. The service manager wasn't sure what the problem was (no dash alarms, no problems otherwise with the car). He assured me they would take care of it or take it to Saab to fix. 3 days later (they gave me a free loaner to drive) I got the call--REAR BRAKES. They explained to me what happened--for some reason, when the right, rear brake ran hot, it expanded and caused the noise. They are currently replacing the rear brake (no cost, during their 30 day warranty coverage).
    After reading the posts about the cost, I am very glad I took the car in when I did.
    Carmax did a great job taking care of the problem and providing me with complimentary transportation. Their service department reminded me of BMW (service, service, service). Never once did I need to call my service representative for an update.
  • biggimpbiggimp Member Posts: 8
    I have an '07 Aero 'combi...6-speed. After I turn the car on, I hear a "clunk" sound just after I shift it into 1st and begin to move forward. This only happens the first time I shift into 1st gear and begin moving forward, even if I've previously moved in reverse. Does anyone with a manual tranny have this? It's not really a problem, but I've never felt/heard this before on any other car I've ever driven, so I'm a little concerned that it could indicate some sort of problem.

    As a side note, I just had a chance to compare my car with my dad's '06 bmw 330i. The Bimmer (which cost him at least 10 grand more than my car) clearly has superior fit and finish, but other than that, I thought my Saab drove just as well, if not better. I was pleasantly surprised!
  • nbondnbond Member Posts: 6
    I have the same issue. I have an 07 9-3 2.0t with the 6-speed manual and the first shifts in the morning when the car is cold are difficult. There is a clunk sound as you described when you shift into first. Second can be a little stiff as well. It was suggested to me to try a different transmission fluid, but it isn't quite annoying enough to schudule an appointment at the dealer. If anyone else has found a solution, I'd like to hear about it. NB
  • floatsey09floatsey09 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the input, much appreciated. I love the performance of the STi, but it is lacking the refinements I am now looking for, it's expensive to insure, and it's a gas hog. I test drove an '06 9-3 Aero and it is nice, but the gearbox feels like you're pulling on loose ropes. Overall, I really liked it and the CPO extended warranty is only an additional $1500. I thought that was a good deal. The salesman told me that the extended warranty covers bumper to bumper until 100k, not just limited to powertrain only. Is that really true? That seems too generous, even from desperate GM right now. The dealer just got another '06 9-3 Aero with only 2,000 miles on it and in perfect condition. He's asking $26,950. Any thoughts on that price?
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    I agree with you on the STI. Might be a fun car to drive on a track a few times a month, but not something to take to work every day.

    The extended warranty, at least when i had a saab, was pretty good, but not quite as good as the original 4/50 warranty. I think a few items that will be fixed under the 4/50 were considered wear items under the 6/100. But it will cover most of the car-stopping problems.

    27K for a '06 with low miles may be ok or may not depending on the options. I'm not up to date with options, but checking what the prices on ebay are may be a good hint. On ebay i see a 2007 aero with 9,000 miles buy-it-now priced at 23,988
  • floatsey09floatsey09 Member Posts: 9
    It's got everything except navigation and On Star, which i could care less about anyway because I've read the nav system in the '06's isn't that special. If I want nav I can buy a TomTom. It does have the Cold Weather Package which I am more pleased about because those features are more practical to VT winter driving. I am test driving it today. Edmunds prices it at about 24,375 so I will meet him somewhere in the middle.
  • crzycool22crzycool22 Member Posts: 18
    Wife has a 2007 9-3 2.0 (manual) as well with 7,500 miles. She also hears clunking sound also, Last week the clutch went on her (she drives manual just fine and does not ride clutch) there was something wrong with the transmission on the vehicle. Saab dealer in North Jersey on route 17 replaced clutch under warranty.
    This is her 2nd SAAB, maybe her last, plus we were not happy with professionalism at service dept. No loaner, rude over phone and waited 4 days for car.
  • floatsey09floatsey09 Member Posts: 9
    Picking up the '06 Aero with 2,000 miles on it this Monday. I expect that I will be running into some minor electrical issues down the road with this vehicle. Can anyone tell me what issues they have had with their 9-3 late models? Also, I am going with some Gislavad Nord Frost 5 winter tires. I have read that they're almost as good as the Nokian Hakka's but a better bang for your buck. Any input on the tires or quirks to expect? Thanks.
  • diswalker2diswalker2 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2005 9-3 Arc, and had oil leaks. Something in the head had to be replaced. Warning, it would have been outrageous if not under warranty. Otherwise things are fine.
  • gardog1gardog1 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a creampuff today. A 2005 2.0T Linear with only 10k miles on it. Immaculate condition. CPO. $18,000.

    I am a very high mileage driver and wanted good fuel economy. Finding a low miles car already depreciated fits me well. Edmunds had dealer retail around 18 and CPO a little over 20. Basically I have 90,000 miles of warranty left.
    Gary
  • ggs2ggs2 Member Posts: 18
    I am considering purchasing either the saab 9-3, possibly the aero or the audi a4 2.0 liter turbo quattro.I've recently driven a 9-3 with the 2.0 turbo and was impressed with the car. I have yet to drive the audi.The saab seems to have a little more interior room and i found the seats to be very comfortable.I've never owned a car made by either of these car makers but i have done enough reading on edmunds and other web sites to know that reliability isn't always foremost with these vehicles.I do plan on purchasing the car and would like to keep it for several years.I would appreciate any input. Thanks
  • swinkswink Member Posts: 4
    You have two great cars to choose from. I considered both before picking my car, a 2005 Saab 2.0 Linear. I ended up buying it from Carmax for price versus the dealer. Apparently, my local Saab dealer doesn't mind keeping overpriced, used cars on their lot (I was even willing to pay $500 over the Edmunds TMV's price, they refused).
    I test drove the Aero and was told the only difference was an upgraded interior (the 2005 Linear has lots of plastic and kinda looks cheap). I put lots of miles on my car (the gas mileage is awesome), and have very simple tastes.. I just deal with the plastic.
    Safety features are awesome (airbags everywhere, standard traction control, etc) and make the car a real value. No complaints!

    Hope this helps.
  • shihanbshihanb Member Posts: 17
    before you purchase, look at the resale value. the Audi holds its resale much better than the SAAB for some reason.

    Both good cars, but if you are not going to hold the car for many years you might be better off with the audi.
  • diswalkerdiswalker Member Posts: 6
    If you choose the Saab, get one with the fold down back seats. You can't miss!
  • saablcpsaablcp Member Posts: 195
    Ahem!.......they ALL have fold down rear seats with the exception of post '04 convertibles.
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    Actually, resale on audis is not really all that good. Additionally, you can often get a huge discount on new saabs. "losing" $5000 on resale doesn't mean much if you save $7000 up front.
  • biggimpbiggimp Member Posts: 8
    The Saab should be much less expensive up front, even if you get the Aero. I got a new '07 Aero 'combi w/ some options for $27,800. A similarly-equipped Audi (w/ the smaller engine which has 55 fewer hp than the Aero), would still be thousdands of dollars more expensive.
  • diswalker2diswalker2 Member Posts: 5
    It's great, except:

    1) No locking glovebox
    2) No valet key--a way to prevent entry to trunk area.

    THIS NEEDS TO BE CORRECTED.
  • pcampospcampos Member Posts: 12
    I'm confused by the HUGE difference between the Edmunds and KBB prices on this model. For a good condition vehicle with 71,000 miles on it KBB lists $9,200 for a private sale while Edmunds says $6,500!

    Anybody have any idea what's up with that?
  • r34r34 Member Posts: 178
    There is a $1000-$2000 difference for my 2001 9-5 Aero too. Most dealers go with KBB (in my case, it is better) or whatever posted on the internet.
  • ggs2ggs2 Member Posts: 18
    i am currently looking at the saab 9-3 2.0 vs audi a4 2.0. i have recently driven both and slightly favor the saab because of more room inside and turbo felt stronger.i would like to hear from some of you who have purchased either of these two cars within the past couple of years and learn how reliable they have or have not been and any other comments you may have.i would prefer to purchase the car and hope to keep it for several years.
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    I have owned a 9-3 for a few years. I know two people that have had A-4's and both had to replaced the entire transmission and they are expensive as hell. While it may have been dumb luck, that car scares me.
  • floatsey09floatsey09 Member Posts: 9
    there are two people in my office that own later model A4's, 2003 and newer, and both of those guys have had to service their car multiple times a year in the two years i've been on the job. Plus, the dealership doing the work charges $75.00 an hour, so they're quite expensive to maintain once the warranty expires. I picked up a 2006 9-3 Aero with only 2,000 miles on it back in February. I have driven it an additional 3,000 and the only service I needed was to adjust the xenon headlights. It has done great in the snow and been very reliable. My annual insurance premium went down an additional $600 for picking the Saab for its safety compared to my last car. I recommend them over the Audi. Plus, they're a little less trendy than an A4. Everybody and their mother has an A4 or a 3 series BMW. Saabs have more of an original substance to them and they're a good blend of style, performance, safety, efficiency and originality. go with the saab.
  • davem5davem5 Member Posts: 8
    Greetings. The dealer (one of the few remaining on Houston) replaced my wipers; since then my washers don;t work. They still do work for the headlights. Any ideas? Checked the fuse, but looks good to me.
  • ph4235ph4235 Member Posts: 2
    How does the Saab 9-3 traction control system handle in the snow? Thinking about purchasing one and live in Chicago area.

    Thanks
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    Well, i have a RWD car with a much simpler traction control system, and i do fine in chicago. :)

    But if you want to be safe in the snow, get snow tires. Period.

    dave
  • floatsey09floatsey09 Member Posts: 9
    hi, i live in VT and our winters are colder and snowier than Chicago winters. Plus, we have to deal with twisty roads, hills, and mountains making driving treacherous. My 9-3 aero did excellent in the snow this past winter. It was my first winter having the vehicle and I am an avid skier and went to the mountain 25 times this season. My TCS never was engaged. I did use brand new snow tires. I bought some Gislavads from the Saab dealer when i purchased the car. If you are concerned about winter driving conditions and want the added peace of mind, than i urge you to buy snow tires for your car. All seasons are not good enough for winter driving. They don't bite through even a half inch of snow, nor funnel it through its tread. Also, because saabs are FWD cars, you'll need the extra grip from a snow tire because they don't have the benefit of AWD. Believe it or not, but some people in VT are still foolish enough to think that they can get through a VT winter with all seasons because they might have 4WD or AWD, and those are the idiots that are off the side of the road as I am plowing down the highway in my little saab on the way to slopes. Snow tires can litterally save your life, and you'll absolutely need them if you try to climb the slightest of hills with a little snow on them. I recommend either the Gislavads (Swedish tire company), Nokian Hakkapolitas (top of the line snow tire on the market) or the Cooper Weather Masters. The VT State Police use those and I used to have the coopers on an old acura in college. If you don't use snow tires, you put yourself at higher risk of losing control of your vehicle, and then the TCS will kick in and it can be annoying, but effective at moderate speeds. Buy the snow tires.
  • ph4235ph4235 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice on winter drving witht the snow!
  • bobbyabobbya Member Posts: 3
    My brakes are shot after 15K miles!! Whaaa!?!

    Is this normal, I'm not a crazy driver, I dont ride the brakes.

    Saab 9-3 '07 rear brakes shot, rotors shot, 400.00 out the window. Front brakes are fine.

    160 2 rotors
    80 brake pads
    160 labor

    Makes no sense.
  • shihanbshihanb Member Posts: 17
    The front pads went on my car at 30K miles. The dealer wanted $550 to replace the pads and rotors. I took it to my local mechanic who measured the rotors and fou nd that they did not need replacing. I saved about 300 dollars.

    I wanted to use ceramics as they are much better but my mechanic insisted on using the factory replacements. I should have insisted as the ceramics are much better, and the next year SAAB uses ceramics all the way around.

    Before you spend any money, check with a reputable mechanic and find out what is going on, perhaps your rotors do not need replacing
  • espanaespana Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my 9-3 last August and I have had to change my headlights every two months. I was told that it could possibly be the electical circuits are wired as one. Does anyone have the same issue?
  • ascoop5000ascoop5000 Member Posts: 2
    I'm in the same boat. Just under 23,000 miles. Heard a hissing/scratching noise on the rear right brake only when braking. Dealership said the caliper was sticking and ruined the rotor. Warranty covered replacement of the rotor and caliper but they said I needed new pads. Out $200 and shocked that I need new pads at 23,000 miles. I don't know a lot about cars, but the new rear pads already look thinner than my original front pads. What gives? Can anyone give a quick 101 on Saab brakes?
  • ascoop5000ascoop5000 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry - meant to add that I also have a 2007 9.3
  • saablcpsaablcp Member Posts: 195
    Manufacturers have been trying to find the right composition for brake pads since the optimum material was banned,that being asbestos. You make them from a hard material to enhance pad life and they squeal under light to moderate pressure.You soften the material and they stop squealing but they wear out faster and create excessive brake dust. Hard to find that "Goldilocks and the 3 Bears" just right combo.and of course brakes are the ultimate "your mileage may vary".I have had an '03 Vector and an '06 9-5,did brakes on the '03 at about 28k.,lease ended on 9-5 with 21k...brakes were fine.
  • shihanbshihanb Member Posts: 17
    I had to replace the front pads on my 2005 at 25K miles. I asked my mechanic to use ceramic pads and he refused, citing liability issues with not using a factory replacement. Lo and behold, the following year they went to ceramics front and back.

    Also my dealer wanted over $300 to replace the rotors which could not be resurfaced. My mechanic was able to resurface the rotors and change a $800 repair bill to a $350 repair bill.
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    Before you get too hard on the Saab dealer, Saab requires that the rotors be replaced with new pads. This is common in many cars and in fact, when you have a performance car with softer brakes it is stupid to not replace the rotors when the pads are replaced. Performance pads are designed to seat with new rotors....they will fit like a glove as they get use. When you then replace the pads w/o the rotors, the car will not stop as well.

    And BTW, you should not re-surface these rotors. They are soft and will be subject to warping quickly if you surface them. As a result, you will be back in for new pads and rotors most likely in a shorter period of time.

    One more thing....rotors and brakes are a job that any guy should be able to do in your own driveway. Takes me about 30 minutes per axle and I buy all my brakes online (all Saab OE materials too). I am not a mechanic....just a regular guy. I think I pay around $180 for a set of rotors and pads online and ....$0 for labor. I can do front and rear for less then $400. The additional amount of work required to swap rotors once you are pulling pads is about 2 minutes. It is completely silly to not replace rotors and even sillier to re-surface them if you are pulling pads anyway.
  • shihanbshihanb Member Posts: 17
    yes, i would not be too hard on the dealer. this is the dealer where the service guy locked the keys in the car requiring me to bring the second set down.

    also the shift knob was popping out, so the service guy epoxied the knob back on - without first putting in the spring for the reverse lever.

    and, of course, when replacing a faulty turn signal switch, accidentally causing a blockage in the a/c drain resulting in the passenger side wells turning into a swimming pool.

    and i have replaced rotors and pads myself, but the ease of doing it depends a lot on the car and the age of the car (rusted screws). i have another car that requires special tooling to remove the rotors.
  • bill_borgerbill_borger Member Posts: 1
    Same story, only I have a 2006 93. At 15K miles, the rear brakes were shot. The rear wheels become covered with black brake dust in-between car washings while the front wheels are clean by comparison. My last car was an Audi A4 and the rear wheels never became black with brake dust, only the front wheels.

    I asked the dealer what's up with this. His reply, this is normal for a 93. It seems like a flaw to me.
  • cmwongcmwong Member Posts: 1
    2006 Saab 93 2.0 Turbo. 17k miles
    I was also shock to learn during a routine tire rotation that my rear brake pads are at limit. Front is ok. Also, I notice the rear wheels has lots of brake dust from day one.
    Talk to B&B Saab in Santa Clara. They offer to replace the rear pads at cost and I accepted. Rotors still ok for now. Still, it is incredible that pads have such a short life.

    :confuse:
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    If the dealer is THAT incompetent, then that is even a bigger reason to not have them touch your brakes.

    Some brakes require unique tools, but they are easy to find and rusted bolts and stuck rotors are easily remedied. First, if you use silicon this does not happen. Second, a can a anti-cease will do wonders.

    Hey look....someone griped about paying what dealers charge to do brakes. Either do them yourself, or pay someone and don't complain. Rotors and pads are basic stuff.

    The hardest part with the Saab 93 is knowing if you have 11.2" or 11.9" rotors in the front. It can be a little confusing especially with the different models and wheel packages. I had to measure mine the first time.

    As far as brake dust....I think all Saabs dust like crazy, but you really should see a lot more up front then in the rear. They use pretty soft materials and the fronts should be doing most of the work.
  • cmagold35cmagold35 Member Posts: 1
    Sorry to start a new line...but I am in desperate need of advice.

    My 2004 Saab 9-3 ARC had the transmission go out at 54,000, which as you know is 4000 miles beyond the warranty. Cost on the repair is $3500. The first scheduled transmission SERVICE on this car is at 60,000 miles. I contacted Saab customer service and Saab corporate to request that they contribute to the repair. They refused. This is a clean, well taken care of Saab, with a good service record and driven with care. Any suggestions on how I could convince Saab to help pay for it? This is not a Yugo, the transmission should not go out on a $40,000 "luxury brand" vehicle with this amount of miles. Any similar experiences? Any thoughts?
  • shihanbshihanb Member Posts: 17
    i think what it comes down to is a) how much you like the car and b) what the book value is, based on condition and mileage.

    GM was having that pay employee price discount, which may or may not still be active, that + the arc trade in would get you a nice 2008 at a reasonable price.

    it is basically your call - love it or trade it. :confuse:
  • shihanbshihanb Member Posts: 17
    one other possibility. my miata needed a new clutch and i got it from a transmission place (aamco) for half the price of what the dealer wanted. not to mention a bad seal they replaced for only twenty dollars while doing the job. get a quote from a transmission place.
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    Never mind. Nothing to see here.
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    >>Manufacturers have been trying to find the right composition for brake pads since the optimum material was banned,that being asbestos.

    Check your facts. Asbestos isn't banned.
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