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Comments
Click on "Business division" from home page
then click on "Film Division"
Go to bootm of that page to see
"Making of NCV3 - The new Sprinter"
German only not English
If slide open windows are an option, I would certainly get them.
Does a customizer shop cut out spaces for the windows and install a window system which allows insertion of two different kinds of window? By "slide" windows I assume these have a fixed half and a sliding half which opens half of the window area. What are "torque" windows?
Thanks for the suggestion. I appreciate it.
Ron
cl-series batterylink acr
pn7600
if you want to add a battery to run a power inverter and etc.
this is an easy hookup just hooks in series with the main battery. no other hook up needed.
I went here:
https://resources.myeporia.com/company_57/6330.pdf
and it looks like there are about 4 other wires that need connecting as well.
I'm not trying to be picky but I think you must mean connected in parallel with the existing battery, that is positive of additional battery to positive of existing battery, and negative to negative. That way the total voltage is still 12 V. This is the way you connect jumper cables to start one car with another.
I would think (but I don't know for certain) that the smaller wires from the original battery would not need to be additionally connected to the new battery because the parallel connection accomplishes this.
A series connection would give 24 V. Individual cells in a flashlight are connected in series and the voltage is the sum of the voltages of the individual ones. A lead acid car batttery is a battery of 6 lead acid cells connected in series (positive on one cell connected to negative of the preceeding one. Each cell generates 2 V. The combination of two 12 V car batteries connected in parallel generates 12 V, but the available current is the sum of the current supplied by each battery.
Addition in editing
Two things I would wonder about are 1) whether the charging system (alternator, voltage regular, etc.) would work exactly the same with two 12 V batteries in parallel, 2) whether one of the wires connecting the new battery to the existing one should have a fusible link or fuse in it to protect the other battery if one battery develops a short. Without a fusible link a high current could flow through the batteries in a loop and maybe cause one or both to seriously overheat or melt wires, and perhaps start a fire.
The whole idea of putting in a second battery should be done according to guidelines or instructions from those who really know how this should be done. It may be dead simple, but it may not.
all i know is i have it hooked as i just explained and it works.
With the traditional battery isolator, it is triggered to connect in the second battery when the vehicle is running regardless of battery condition/charge level. This can be very taxing on an alternator/V.C. Regulator.
With the type of battery isolator he has installed, you have another kind of automatic control. The presumably solid-state components inside the isolator connect the second battery when the voltage on the alternator/1st battery side is higher than that of the second battery and charges the second battery. High charging current is only allowed for short periods, then scaled back to lower charge rates. When the engine is off and the alternator is not supplying voltage, then the disconnect occurs.
It seems unique in that the second battery is automatically added back into the primary battery system if it has more voltage than the primary system (also appears adjustable). That seems unique for such a simple packaged isolator.
The manufacturers web-site/info says that a fusible link, slo-blo, or self-resetting circuit braker is recommended for safety reasons. applause follows... simple, correct and gives proper guidelines.
For someone who caught the inaccuracy of calling a parallel connection a "serial connection", I am confused as to how you propose that "high current could flow through the batteries in a loop"? In parallel, they share a common ground and, of course, a common input (pos.) voltage/current source. This type of isolator (with a single fusible connection on the +Voltage side to the second battery as recommended) is quite easier to run than the older mechanical solenoid based versions I have seen before.
On your last point, you are correct but just a bit snippy... Using the manufacturer's simple, but complete instructions (which were made available to you in the listed URL/website) would obliterate your objections as long as the manufacturer/dealer stands behind the product.
For example, they recommend proper short-out protection, wire gauge, wiring voltage drops, current carrying capacity, and have a product that states that it will limit currents in a manner consistent with reasonable practices. They even mention that you need to consider whether or not you have adequate alternator capacity... Simple but reasonable requirements presented along with very simple wiring requirements looks very good to me as well.
KenB
I am not affiliated with the company mentioned in this thread or any of its distributors or their competition.
'For someone who caught the inaccuracy of calling a parallel connection a "serial connection", I am confused as to how you propose that "high current could flow through the batteries in a loop"? In parallel, they share a common ground and, of course, a common input (pos.) voltage/current source. This type of isolator (with a single fusible connection on the +Voltage side to the second battery as recommended) is quite easier to run than the older mechanical solenoid based versions I have seen before.'
The loop I was imagining was if one battery would short out and have reduced emf (voltage) then the other battery would send current (possibly high current) into the positive side of the bad battery in the same direction that current flows while charging. I don't know if this actually ever happens but it seemed to me to be a possibility.
I have some customers that are using home made biodiesel in a variety of Mercedes engines, and they seem to be having good luck. There is a biodiesel workshop next weekend in my city. I hope to find some answers then.
look at:
http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Product_id=53476
This is a Current Limiting device... will not continue to draw a high current in the second battery for more than a short time. It also doesn't draw power from the second battery back to the first/starter unless the voltage of the first battery drops and the starter needs help (of course the second battery has to have power to contribute to the start sequence as well.
It appears to me that it would be very helpful to have the status and switch panel installed as well. As indicated in another post, that entails about 4 more small gauge wires and putting the panel somewhere useful.
Thanks,
KenB
http://store.wmjmarine.com/s7600.html
---------------------- OWNERS MANUAL ADDENDUM -------------------------THIS ADDENDUM UPDATES INFORMATION ABOUT THE FUEL REQUIREMENTS IN SECTION 5 OF YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL.
Maximum Content of Bio-Diesel for Dodge Sprinter with Engine Types OM612 and OM647:
This statement is issued to communicate that fules with a maximum valume percentage of 2% Bio-Diesel can be used for Sprinter engines type OM612 and OM647. per WWFC (World-Wide Fuel Charter) category 1-3 "Fatty Acid Methyl Esters (FAME) used in commercial must meet ASTM D 6751 specifications"
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
eBay is a place to start looking.
KenB
My 4 cylinder Aveo would do about 2500 RPM at 55 and the 5 cylinder Sprinter would do about 2000 RPM. Our 8 cylinder Explorer does even lower. I think 1700. (All the numbers are approximations based on a guess, and not the actual reading, so don't jump on me for that.)
Please explain how !
http://www.ringpinion.com/content/calculators/rpm.asp
fill in the numbers 3.72 axle tire height etc
A word of warning was given elsewhere that you may have problems if you have the heated windshield option (metal coating that warms the window?).
KenB :shades:
Danny Steyn reports on 5 different wheels.
Here's his site:
http://www.danny-steyn.com/mercedes-sprinter-van-conversion-to-mercedes-sprinter- -van.htm#7
This is good news indeed.
I copied your post on the Yahoo forum as well.
Ken
Cured for about 1/4 mile. I just live w/the vibration.
Fire guy