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Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair

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  • daddy818daddy818 Member Posts: 18
    Forgot to mention this problem - Problem #5 - Passenger front window,when trying to roll window down or up it would slow down severly about 1/4 of the way from the top, after I would try several times the window motor would go into "thermal overload" and the motor would shut down until it cooled off. I replaced the motor @ around $165 and discovered(much to my dismay)it is not the motor,the new motor does the same thing,so there must be something wrong with the window track or track hardware(possibly causing too much resistance,hence the motor overheating). Window is not "off track",I pulled the door skin off and checked. Problem is now starting to occur in the drivers side front window also.
    Any advice or knowledge would be appreciated. Once again "Thank you" for any and all help in advance.
  • bigtruck1bigtruck1 Member Posts: 7
    I have an 00 v10. It turns over fine but wont idle on its own. I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep the RPM'S at about 1000 until it eventually runs on its own. The problem seems to arise when the outside temperature drops below 50 degrees. The problem seems to be effecting my gas mileage as well (topping out at about 6 mpg). Any helpful hints?
  • ned412ned412 Member Posts: 16
    Would anyone know if you can tow an Ex behind a motor home? I have an 05 4x4 with the 6.0. The manual say's no. But was wondering if the transfer case can be put into neutral.
  • excursionchixexcursionchix Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I own a 2000 Ford Excursion that had the same problem,and yes we also bought a new motor with regulator, after replacing and doing the final adjustments on the new parts, it was still having difficulty going up and down, so what I did was removed the glass out and PULL out the window rubber track,this rubber track is located right inside the regular metal track, it starts on the bottom of the left side of the track up ALL the way around to the other end othe right side of the track this is where the glass actually depends on its groove too make it glide easily,when removed you must now get a cleaning agent, (mineral spirit) and thoroughly and remove all the dirt and grease that has build up in there, after it has been clean and dry, re-apply a good quality synthetic lubricant, I used Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliber Lube,it worked GREAT.
  • exwant2beexwant2be Member Posts: 2
    You can probably find a Remco Drive Shaft disconnect for the Excursion. check out www.remco.com. You will also need a serious tow bar (8k lbs) and toad brakes to be legal.
  • exwant2beexwant2be Member Posts: 2
    Anyone know the cause of a rattle in the left frontend, definetly noticeable on washboard or rough roads. Not a loose Shock, dealer says it may be bushings in the front end sway bar. Excursion has 45k miles.
  • ned412ned412 Member Posts: 16
    If I remember correctly it has something to do with the exhaust. I had it on my old ex and I'm pretty sure that is what they repaired.
  • nick42nick42 Member Posts: 4
    Take a look at your heat shield on the exhaust pipe coming across from the left side to the right. The welding on my 2000 Ex have come loose causing a rattle.
  • nick42nick42 Member Posts: 4
    Check out Post # 217, The heat shield on the exhaust may be loose
  • roosmamaroosmama Member Posts: 28
    I have the same vehicle and it is doing the same thing. Can anyone PLEASE HELP!!!! It is driving me nuts! Also as soon as it gets near oil change time the oil in it just disappears. No spots on the driveway or signs of leaks. :cry:
  • owltruckowltruck Member Posts: 2
    I have been having the same problem on the same truck as #211 and #219 but now it's much worse.

    00 Excursion - started with the "starts but won't idle at cold temps" problem a few weeks ago. Today the Door Ajar light went nuts, intermittantly coming on, going out. Now it's running oddly, it's acting like the catalytic converter has collapsed or the muffler has a hole - but intermittantly. Com'on, even I know a muffler sound won't go away for awhile and come right back again.

    Sooo... is this sounding like a fried computer brain?
  • bigtruck1bigtruck1 Member Posts: 7
    I thought I read a previous post about this problem. The fix was to take it to the dealer to have the computer chip reset. Does anyone know if this works. I like the dealership as much as the dentist and would avoid going at all cost but if this works it would be nice to be able to tell them exacatly what to do and not be raked through the coals while they look for a needle in a haystack.
  • roosmamaroosmama Member Posts: 28
    OK I had the same problems #1 and #4. For #1 I yelled at Ford and was told that with the big V10 you have to stick to the Ford specification type oil for that truck. I have taken it to the local quicky lube and the oil disappears. If I take it to the local Ford dealer the oil does not disappear. Most be something about that big engine breaking down the oil. Problem #4 happened to me right after I bought the thing with only 52,000 km on it (Canadian, eh!) I took it back to the dealer and it was replaced under warranty. You may want to check and see if it is a recall. It freaked me out too!
  • roosmamaroosmama Member Posts: 28
    I have a 2000 Excursion and have had lock trouble with the thing. I used to work at a Ford dealer and found out the hard way that Ford had a 'silent' recall on the electric locks. By silent, they did not send out any letters but if you complained before the warranty was up they would replace them all. If they went after the warranty period you were on your own. The locks are faulty, somthing about the activator being too small or the lock post being too long. Something stupid. :confuse:
  • lionelnlioneln Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 7.3L diesel I only have 57,000 miles on it, I do the regular maint. on it. The problem I am having is my vehicle has a hard start or no start in the morning, The batteries seem to drain, and I sometimes get no juice at all when I turn the key on. Plus I have had to replace the starter relays several times. I have taken it to the Ford dealer and they have replaced different chips and it is good for about 2 months, then it is back in the dealership, I have had the same problems with the power door locks they just go off when ever they want, open and close without anyone pressing the switch. As I read the blogs I see many of the problems, what can I do? What about the silent recall from Ford is there anything that can be done? I love the vehicle and I use it to pull our boat or trailer, but with all these little problems I am ready to trade it in, any suggestions? :mad:
  • momof4kids2005momof4kids2005 Member Posts: 2
    Bought a 2001 Excursion V10 4x4 in February. Only has 72,000 miles on it. Yesterday noticed that I had a very bad engine stutter around 40-50 mph. Then the service engine soon light popped on. Checked the air filter - it was dirty so I cleaned it out, took it for a test drive today, still has the stutter just before 50mph. Anyone had this problem? What should I look for? Fuel filter, fuel pump? I just re-put on my gas cap, just in case hubby didn't latch it right, cause I know it could be that. But I need to know what else to check, cause I would really hate to find out that its an expensive fix. Thanks! :confuse:
  • roosmamaroosmama Member Posts: 28
    Don't know if it will help but mine had a plugged inline fuel filter at about the same milage. I have also found that I have to keep putting the gasline anti freeze to it as well.
  • ksw515ksw515 Member Posts: 1
    My excursion squeaks really bad when driving over bumps.... had the chassis mounts lubricated that seem to stop the problem for a week or so it came back.... should the mounts be changed and if so is it costly...... help
  • nick42nick42 Member Posts: 4
    I have had a similar problem with engine stutter and rough idle. I had to replace one of the 10 spark plug wire/coils. This solved the problem. I only replaced one because they are $50 - $70 each. You would need 10 to replace them all$$$$. I found the one that was at fault by using a engine meter.
  • mmcrobinsonmmcrobinson Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Ford 7.3l turbo diesel Excursion and it stalled on me yesterday while driving.. has anyone had this problem. If so how did you get it taken care of?
  • momof4kids2005momof4kids2005 Member Posts: 2
    Update:

    Found out what the problem was....

    bad gas.

    I bought a fuel filter, re-put on my gas cap (hubby isnt quite sure how to use the locking caps)...then all of a sudden when I burned all the gas I had just bought at a no name gas station the light went off, the stutter stopped and all was well. I talked to a friend of mine who was a mechanic for many years and he said it was most likely watered down gas, it makes your engine act like its starving for fuel because its getting water as well, not just straight fuel.

    I also got really really bad gas mileage during this tank of gas...between 5-8 miles to the gallon (I average between 10 and 15 normally).

    So beware of watered down gas... ;)
  • shadetree_mechshadetree_mech Member Posts: 10
    When you stay stalled, did it just die/quit running? Did it restart and take off going again? Has it done this before? Has it ever studdered while driving? I'd check fuel filter 1st, if not it might be the cam-pos sensor. You're not giving much info to go on, please expand. What were the conditions of this stall? Rush hr traffic? Towing? Running down the interstate? Other?
  • shadetree_mechshadetree_mech Member Posts: 10
    Might the main switch cluster on driver door.
  • mmcrobinsonmmcrobinson Member Posts: 7
    I was turning into my son's school when it stalled. And yes it started up again. Then today I had a stutter around 45 to 50 getting on the Interstate. Then it stalled again turning down another street today. Put it back into park and it started again. I am thinking it is the CPS since it is the original item...
  • idgolfjunkieidgolfjunkie Member Posts: 15
    Hi, I just checked my email and saw your posting, yes, you have a Cam Position Sensor that is failing, I just had the same problem with my 2000 excursion (diesel). I exhibited the same symptoms that you explained. Replaced CPS, all is well.

    P.S. you can buy the sensor for 65.00 on ebay, and it isn't hard to replace. Good Luck
  • mmcrobinsonmmcrobinson Member Posts: 7
    I am not quite qualified to do it. I am a numbers person and do not like working on engines. But the ford dealer did not like it when i told him it was a 10 minute job.
  • shadetree_mechshadetree_mech Member Posts: 10
    I had very similar with my 1995 7.3, it would just out of the blue, seems as if someone turned off the ignition for a sec or two then it would run fine, It'll get more frequent the longer you go. Never could recreate it when I wanted it to, I replaced the Cam-Pos sensor, takes about 20mins, although Ford doesn't give them away. Make sure you used a good socket, and don't strip the bolt head. It only becomes more fun if you do, had a buddy of mine do this, took him 1 day and a trip to a mechanic to get the bolt out.
  • bigtruck1bigtruck1 Member Posts: 7
    These instructions were a great help, the dealer wants $100.00 for the actuator and another $100.00 for each install. Do you happen to know of any solution to the IDLE problems? My 2000 V10 does not want to idle at start up. I have to drive with one foot on the brake and one on the gas until it decides to idle on its own. The dealer wants $90.00 for me to pull it in their driveway! Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • ronidronid Member Posts: 2
    We also are having problems with our 2000 V10 holding an idle on start up ... husband swares it is the gas and is always putting a cleaner in fuel ... but this has been going on for years now ... any one have an answer?
  • skibo72skibo72 Member Posts: 1
    Im having this same issue every now and then is there an answer?
  • mmcrobinsonmmcrobinson Member Posts: 7
    My tail gate window will not open. It is acting like it is locked but I cannot tell for sure. Anyone have this problem?? If so what did you do?
  • roosmamaroosmama Member Posts: 28
    I had the opposite problem. It would not lock. The problem was in the linkage for the door locks, which also lock the rear window. If you give the lock a good spray with WD 40 or something the linkage should let go. If not you'll have to have the rear door panel taken off and the linkage cleaned. Don't try that yourself unless you have the special tools to get it off or you can snap the plastic fasteners and then have an even bigger repair bill.
  • mmcrobinsonmmcrobinson Member Posts: 7
    Seems like my Rear window will not unlock with the remote. It had to be unlocked via the manual lock in the door. What can I do to fix this problem with out costing a small fortune??? :confuse:
  • twtcadtwtcad Member Posts: 13
    Hello.....I've been have this issue for a few months now, just have not had time to take it to dealer. With this surging at idle my lights also go bright/dim constantly. Has anybody else experience this? In the past 6 months or so I have replaced the alternator and both batteries. Also last night for the first time the battery light came on and flashed for around 5 miles and then went off. Any help would be great. Thank You!
  • mmcrobinsonmmcrobinson Member Posts: 7
    Check engine light has anyone ever had this issue? How much did it cost for repair or did you?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Lots of auto parts stores will diagnose that for free now.
  • mmcrobinsonmmcrobinson Member Posts: 7
    Every where I call tell me that there is at least a $70 diagnostic fee to determine if the is plug #8 or the chip...hmmm
  • twtcadtwtcad Member Posts: 13
    Autozone and/or Discount Auto Parts will read the codes for free. It's not as in depth as the scanners connected to a computer, but it should tell you why the check engine light is on.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Someone reported that the AutoZone in their town was now charging to pull the codes. But it's still worth asking around to see if there's some parts store who'll do it for free, hoping you'll buy any needed parts from them.
  • ronidronid Member Posts: 2
    Has any one found out the problem for WHY the 2000 V10 will not hold an idle on start up and you have to double foot with brake and gas until it decides it wants to hold the idle. Called Ford Consumer Department and no one there has an answer and the dealer wants me to leave the truck over night because by the time I drive to the service center it is holding an idle just fine (made me look like a fool) and because we use the truck for the horses we haven't had time to leave it over night yet. Help?!?
  • truktoytruktoy Member Posts: 4
    Excursion now has 43,000 miles (2004 6.0 diesel)and engine cuts out for 1 to 4 seconds in 45 to 65 mph range causing a jerk/shudder. Also sometimes there is a stagnation at idle and engine will not accelerate. I shift to neutral and engine will then accelerate and emits a black cloud of smoke from the exhaust pipe. Dealer cannot duplicate. Has anyone had the same problem and been able to fix it??
  • bearacheckbearacheck Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where I can get the ribbon that connects from the monitor of the tv screen to the control unit. I'd like to try replacing it before spending a fortune on the entire assembly.
  • bearacheckbearacheck Member Posts: 2
    By the way its a 2001!
  • 02excursion02excursion Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Excursion, recently the reverse lights and back up sensors started staying on in all gears...the only way to shut them off when the truck is running is the emerg. brake. some one said neutral safety switch? Where do I look? Any suggestions?
  • shadetree_mechshadetree_mech Member Posts: 10
    I would say it's probably the the sensor that senses when you are in reverse, most likely on the trasmission. If you don't have a shop manual to look it up you can go talk to the dealer/sevice center. I have had good luck going to the service center and getting schematics from thier micro fiche, and sometimes they even let me talk to a mechanic, and ask are the most common falts for this problem? Usally they'll tell you with the caviot of no guarantees unless you bring it in for diagnosis, this is uysuall a flat charge of $50, and is applied if you let them fix. or... you can call the local dealer and tell them you need a backup sensor, and want to see if they have it on hand? The ask them where it goes on the vehicle, you might get them to tell you this over the phone. If so you can do some quick checks with a meter and see if it's toggeling, or on just steadily. Your backup alarm being on is a result of the vehicle thinking it's still in reverse. That would be my angle of pursuit... good luck.
  • cuinakcuinak Member Posts: 3
    Sorry for the delayed response, as I post usually on FTE. It's your ICV (Idle Control Valve), attached on the back side of the V10 carburetor inlet air near the fire wall. Two small bolts and then detach clamp holding air hose to the ICV. It gets really dirty over time and the shaft in the fist size ICV sticks causing cold starts to not idle, thereby requiring you to hold down the gas for a few minutes until warmed up. Eventually you get tired of doing this, so you can either take it off and soak it in cleaner to remove dirt and grease for 24 hours, or simply buy another and replace ($130) with a new OEM unit. Some prefer to buy a new unit versus repeating this cleaning step with the old unit. Don't forget to put on the new gasket that comes with the new unit or else you won't seal it to the carburetor to make it air tight. CUINAK
  • bigtruck1bigtruck1 Member Posts: 7
    Right on Cuinak !!! Thanks for the info, the problem has gone away since its summer time but I was dreading cold wet nights. I'll get right on that fix. What site is FTE?
  • cuinakcuinak Member Posts: 3
    Forgot to mention that you also have to disconnect the electrical connector from the old Idle Control Valve when removing and re-installing. FTE is the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forum similar to this site, a huge Excursion posting forum filled with 55,000 posts. No fee required, just register like you did for this site.

    Here's the FTE link: FTE
  • quickfordsquickfords Member Posts: 18
    OK, Enough is enough.
    I have read a few complaints on peeling paint in this forum. First, I would like to hear from anyone who has had success in a resolution with Ford. I would like to hear from EVERYONE who has a paint-peeling issue because I have contacted a lawyer to see what my options are.
    For the benefit of the group, this is a 2000 Limited in White that I bought new. It has always been hand washed and never hit. The areas peeling are the roof (in the drip rails) and now the R/R passenger door jamb. I am frightened :cry: of thought of what it will look like when more delamination occurs.
  • 1jman1jman Member Posts: 3
    I have the same 2000 white truck and the same paint peeling problem on the roof.
    I also have given up on the door locks for now, I cannot find any replacements that will work longer then a few months.
    Has any one had trouble with the large yellow cable connection on the alternator, mine is frying? It looks like I will have to replace the wiring.
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