Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

ziegy · March 2005

I have the same problem but it is always the tires. Off-road tires usually have to be balanced and rotated every 3-6,000 miles or they will start to vibrate especially at freeway speeds.

ziegy · March 2005

I have a 97 Ram 1500 w/ 5.9l. I was letting it idle yesterday and it shut off just like it ran out of gas. It cranks and cranks but no fire. I put more gas in and still no fire. I read somewhere that this can be the fuel pump relay. I remember something about switching it to AC or something? Any ideas?

ziegy · March 2005

I had the same problem with my 97 at 100k. Have the Cat Converter checked along with the O2 sensors. Fixed mine right up. You might be getting and upstream when you should be getting a downstream. This can cause blowback and eventually bust your rings.

jdlee · March 2005

Does anybody have the lamp out light coming on and off and the chime keeps going on and off. I took it to the dealership and they said they could not figure it out.

cincyjim · March 2005

I have a ram 1500 with the 5.2 L. Anyone ever get a spark plug stuck in its "sleeve"? Can't seem to get the 5/8 deep well over it to remove it. Almost looks like some rust may have gotten around the sleeve and pushed it inward at the base. If I could remove the sleeve that would also solve the problem as then I could get the socket around the plug but it does not want to budge.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jim

dustyk · March 2005

The standard two-row core on Dodge trucks have plenty of radiator for cooling. The heavy duty cooling equiped versions are three-row.

I think you've just got a punky radiator.

Good luck,
Dusty

dustyk · March 2005

Ask your son if he's done any full-pedal drops into a drive gear, especially first.

It's very, very rare on a Mopar, but the clicking noise could be from a broken sun gear or input shaft.

Bests,
Dusty

bighunk · March 2005

.

I have a 1999 Dodge RAM Truck, 1500, 1/2 Ton, 2WD Pickup V8-360 5.9L in almost like new condition with 76000 miles on it.

I was enjoying myself, riding down the street, when suddenly all the instrument panal lights came on. The mileage indicator says NO BUS,
and all the warning lights are on like a xmas tree, and the gas guage doesn't work.

That was 3 days ago, and they are still the same.

Other then that, my truck is running perfectly.

If you have had this problem, or know where I can find out information about this problem = please help me. I fiddled with it but couldn't solve the problem.

Thank you so much for any help you can give me.

Do you know of any place I can look for a recall on bulletin about my problem.

Cajun

bluefly@cox.net

.

mac24 · March 2005

Almost guaranteed to be a bad connector or ground, either around the instrument panel or the PCM/ECU.

dustyk · March 2005

Maybe a bad Central Timer Module?

Dusty

racinoto · March 2005

I have an 03 ram 1500 quad cab with a hemi. At times the truck runs like it hitting on 3 cylinders. On the interstate, I can barely do 40-50 mph when the problem exist. If I put it in neutral and get some rpm and put it back in gear, the problem is corrected. The dealer could find no problem and the problem could not be duplicated at the dealer. It rerecursnce every 3-4 month period. Could the problem be with the secondary coil, or for that matter the primary coil? Have you heard of anyone else with this type of problem. If yes, what's the fix. I know I CANNOT be the only one to experience this coconditionalthough the Chrysler rep says he never heard of this phphenomenon.elp if you can.

daveramed · March 2005

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram Quad cab, 5.9liter. I purchased it new and it currently has 110,000 miles.
Within the last six months,
The dasboard has cracked in 5 different places, The plastic piece that holds the ashtray in broke off, the plastic piece on the side of the glovebox that holds it in broke, the plastic latch on the little document holder up on the roof of the cab broke off, the plastic emergency brake release broke so now I just pull the brake cable manually.

And by coincidence, my neighbor had a 2000 Dodge Ram Quad Cab and the identical type of thing was happening to his interior. A 6 inch diameter chunck fell out of the top of the dashboard just above the stering wheel along with the dashboard spliting in numerous places similar to mine.

Question: is their a "root cause analysis" available with regards to this "ashes to ashes, dashboard to dust" scenario?

castrovinci · March 2005

HELLO,
IN RESPONSE TO EVERYONE'S POST, I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE GAS MILEAGE IT WAS VERY POOR. I HAVE 410'S IN THE REAR AND A STICK THATS BASICALLY 4 GEARS OVERDRIVEN. YOU JUST CANT COUNT FIRST GEAR, BUT ANYHOW WHEN I WAS PULLING A LOAD I FOUND THIS GREAT WEBSITE OUT THAT HELPED ME GET MY BETTER GAS MILES. IT WAS CALLED TOWINGWING.COM AND THEY HAVE WIND DEFLECTORS THAT DID TRUELY SAVE ME 10 PERCENT IN GAS AND IT LOOKS GREAT TOO! CHECK THEM OUT AND MAYBE IT WILL BRING THAT POOR MILEAGE UP!
THANKS GUYS,
ANTHONY

PF_Flyer · March 2005

Anthony, please turn off your CAPS lock. All caps is harder for folks to read and is generally considered to be yelling.

PF Flyer
Host
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99dodge · March 2005

Turns over but wont Start I have plenty of fuel pressure. I have spark at the coil and I checked power at the injectors all good there any one else had this problem.could it be crank sensor or fuel pressure regulator. Or is it Just MEEEEEEEE

mac24 · March 2005

Are the plugs wet? If they are it's a spark problem, if they're dry it's a fuel problem.

99dodge · March 2005

It is a spark problem,changed the crank sensor still nothing.headed for the distributor if It stops raining.

kc8enn · March 2005

I have a 99 RAM with the Cummins and I currently have and had a vibration between 65mph & 75mph. The first time a UV joint on the drive shaft failed. This not only caused a vibration, but it cracked the transmission housing as well. Since then (over a year) my transfer case will show a little oil at the seams, but nothing major. Recently the vibration came back and now the transfer case is leaking more severely. I have not been able to find any loose UV joints or snap rings and the transmission seems fine. I spoke to a couple companies that remanufacture these transmissions and it was suggested that I may want to get my drive shafts balanced. I am also looking at a transfer case swap.

trkownr · March 2005

I have had a similar experience. However, I only hear the sound. And I am also wondering with is going on.

trkownr · March 2005

I have a 1998 3/4 with a 411 rear end. I have had shifting problems recently and in the past. In the past I took it to the dealership and they replace the computer and it fixed the problem. Now it seems like at around 40 mph the transmission doesn't want to kick it up to the next gear and go faster. Some times it shifts up, down, up down, until I finally go fast enough that it stops. When I am going about 30 and hit the accelerator. Instead of going faster. The transmissions shifts down. To a lower gear. Help!

dustyk · March 2005

How many miles on your RAM?

If you have fuel and spark, you're probably looking at a bad catalytic converter or bad timing chain and gears.

Bests,
Dusty

dram2500 · March 2005

I have a 1995 Ram 2500 4x4 w/automatic trans the overdrive started shifting in and out at 65mph then it started sliping and now I have no reverse or drive. my question is does anybody know if you can take the same trans out of a truck w/gas engine and bolt it to a diesel engine

KCRam · March 2005

You should have a 47RH trans in that truck. From 1996 to 2002, they went to the 47RE which had more computer controls. Your computer won't necessarily work properly with a 47RE.

First thing I would check before you start worrying about swaps: your trans fluid. Slipping, then losing reverse is the sign of low fluid, and it could be something as simple as a pan gasket. When that happened to my 96 47RE, I knew it was time to top off the ATF, and when it got persistent, I had it checked out and found one of the lines to the cooler was shot and leaking. Dealer changed the line and no more probs.

kcram - Pickups Host

jkdodge · March 2005

i have a 98 ram 1500 (4wd) ext.cab , i peroidally have been hearing a sound inside the cab,sounds like water swooshing trough the dash..i think that itmay be water running trough heatercore..just recently my check engine light came on, i checked over the truck added about a 1/4 gal antifreeze that was low, light went out.. drove the truck for a day light came back on,added a small amount of coolant again, light went back out again.. no visual signs of leaks anywhere... thinking heater core problems or head gasket (hopefully not)any advise would be appriated....

dustyk · March 2005

Head gasket failures on Mopar truck engines are not common. The sound may be coming from the heater box area, but that does not neccesarily mean the heater core is the problem. Check for leaks any where in the cooling system. Especially look for loose or broken hose clamps.

You can pressure test the system to verify a leak. Check the overflow bottle for fluid level. If it's where it should be you just might have a bad radiator cap.

Keep us posted.

Best regards,
Dusty

airvine · March 2005

I have a 2002 dodge ram 1500 5.9 L, last night it stalled while driving on the highway at 55mph.
It turns over but will not start. It appears that there is no fuel to the engine, and I can hear the fuel pump run while under it.I tried switching
fuel pump relays in the fuse box with identical ones that I knew worked and it still won't start. Can anyone help me before the dealer racks up a hefty fee for something that may be minor?
tony37642@yahoo.com

dustyk · March 2005

If you can hear the pump MAYBE it is working. It's possible that the impeller is loose on the shaft, so I wouldn't make a judgment based on the sound alone.

Assuming you have fuel in the tank, its possible that a large amount of dirt has accumulated on the fuel pump's inlet strainer. It is integral with the pump.

Another possibility is the fuel pressure regulator/filter has failed and caused a complete shut-off of fuel to the injectors.

Another possibility is the loss of operating signals to the injectors preventing them from opening. That would be an electrical wiring or a PCM computer-related problem.

Unless you have the factory shop manual and have confidence in your troubleshooting abilities, I think this might be one for your dealer.

Good luck,
Dusty

dadshemi66 · March 2005

Thanks!, After further review of the truck by my dealer, they said it was the drive shaft, they rotated it 180 degrees and it seems to be all but gone..

dashtrouble · March 2005

i have an '03 ram 1500 5.9l 4x4:

after sitting unused over the weekend, my truck started fine and drove fine, but my speedometer needle is jumping up and down while sitting still at a light or while in park, and my ABS and emergency brake lights come on and do not go off after having been started for a minute or two. the brakes seem fine also. the rest of the dash indicators seem normal.

what's up? computer? alternator problem?

roper2 · March 2005

My 1500 did that when it was new ,it was a sensor near the rear axle. Moisture in it.

jfqp · March 2005

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram1500 Quad cab im having problems with the transmission linkage when i put it in park its in reverse, reverse is neutral,neutral is drive etc. can someone tell me this is no big deal and tell me it can b fixed cheap and easy. Thanks

zztopperman · March 2005

Help! I have a dodge that is sick! It's 360 cubic inches powerhouse has developed a miss at idle that you can feel or even when moving at slow speeds. I have had it to 2 dealers and they have seen a code or something that has caused them to replace the # 7 spark plug 3 times and the # 6 once. it has not helped. They have decided to replace all the plug wires next week. Told me that the rough idle is nature of the 360. If that is so why has it just begun doing it? Can it be fixed, or do I need to get a Silverado? I love the truck, but it sucks the gasoline too. I saw a cracked vacuum hose leading off the throttle body and pointed that out but they weren't concerned with that!
Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks!

deere620 · March 2005

I have a 2003 Ram 2500 with the 305 HO diesel, and have lost overdrive. It doesn't matter whether or not it is hot or cold. Fluid is normal and haven't seen any other abnormalities. It will shift through the other gears normally, also cruise control will not work. The idicator will come on for a few seconds but then goes off. When the idicator is on it will not set. I only have 16,000 miles on it. Has anyone had this problem?

dustyk · March 2005

>>Anybody have any ideas?<<

Yes. Find another dealer.

The 360 IS NOT known to be a rough idler and your question as to why just now is indicative.

Cracked vacuum hoses most certainly should be suspect. Even if it is not now causing a problem, they should be replaced.

You don't say how many miles are on this engine, but if you're under 40K I would rule out on the first pass a bad valve or something more serious.

Most poor idle or performance problems nowadays are fuel delivery related, specifically the fuel injectors. I've not heard many complaints on Mopars, but dirty injectors or Idle Air Control valve are not uncommon contributors to rough idle and low-speed skips. My suggestion would be to run a good quality fuel injector cleaner through the engine, and disassembly and clean the Idle Air Control valve and port area.

Of course, spark plugs could also be a problem. Check the simple things first.

Best regards,
Dusty

mac24 · March 2005

Are you having a problem getting this fixed under warranty?

deere620 · March 2005

Yes they won't even check it until I take everything that isn't factory off. It just went out all of a sudden. It would take me 4-5 hours to take everything off and I don't have a lot of time. I just wanted them to check out quickly for a code or anything, but he won't even look at it without removing wiring harnesses. I don't have any boxes hooked up now. I work on tractors and combines and know that something as simple as a sensor or line can come off. I would be mad if I spent all that time and it is just a $20 part. I thought I would try here to see if anyone had this problem.

KCRam · March 2005

Dealers are paid for warranty work by the manufacturer based on the time it takes to diagnose and repair a stock vehicle. If you have lots of accessories that are in the way, the labor cost to move them out of the way can not be charged back to the manufacturer. So they will either charge you for that labor, or as they have requested, you can remove and replace the equipment yourself for free. The dealer is actually trying to save you a few bucks and some headaches... if they don't reinstall one of your accessories correctly, you'd most likely return upset about it.

kcram - Pickups Host

deere620 · March 2005

Yeah I know, I worked at a dealership. That's just it I have moved everything out of the way, I just didn't want to remove the wiring harness that goes through the firewall. Nothing is hooked up and the wiring harness is ziptied out of the way. I have had the Banks Six Gun on the there and now there is nothing but that wiring harness. The salesman said that the service manager was a factory man and he sticks to the "rules". We would just overlook the harness and get the customer going, not worry about minor details. Just look at the truck guys don't worry about some extra wires that aren't even in your way. On a different note; last night I unhooked the battery cables all night. This morning everything worked, parked it and this evening went to drive it and overdrive won't kick in and no cruise control again. I appreciate any of the feedback, this is my first forum, kinda cool.

mac24 · March 2005

Well at least that points to an electrical problem rather than a mechanical one.

I can understand that you don't want to pull everything off, but seriously, going in there with a Banks Six Gun connected is asking to have any warranty coverage pulled from the engine, transmission and drivetrain.

You're supposed to keep that stuff secret!

:--)

yukonkixbutt · March 2005

I have a 2005 1500 quad 4x2.. and have similar problem. It only seems to happen on the freeways that use concrete sections (like most in california). On asphalt sections of freeway there is no issue. The vibration gets so bad that it rattles my cheeks and I don't have a double chin.

I've read on this board that it is a known issue and that DC is working on it. Did you resolve your problem - if so what was the cause/solution?

cornellpinoy · March 2005

No, I still have the problem. The highways by me are asphalt but the vibration is more noticeable on certain highways. I don't feel it on all roadway surfaces, so maybe the Ram is a little more sensitive than the F150s & Silverados I've had in the past. Or maybe not, since I've seen that some 300C Hemi owners have the same complaint.

zodosh40 · March 2005

When turning right or left I hear a faint noise like a dog howling from the front I have had the U-joint replaced 2 times on the right and when I have the noise was a clicking. so I am not sure of this one.

sutp · March 2005

I have a 1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 truck. When stepping on the brake the truck pulls to the right. I have spent a few thousand dollars trying to fix this and I am still having this problem. In the last 3 years it has had new bearings, wheel alignments, calipers, tracking bar, tie rods end and nothing seems to solve the problem. When on ice, the right right wheel brake come on first, then the abs sounds and the other wheel doesn't catch. There is little or no brakes. Has anyone had this problem and was able to fix it?

KCRam · March 2005

Check your brake lines and hoses to that corner. Sounds like you're losing pressure/vacuum. When that happens, a brake will stick or will be very slow to release, causing a pull. Happened on my 96 3500.

kcram - Pickups Host

dustyk · March 2005

As Kcram suggested, replace both front brake hoses.

What happens is this. The rubber in the hose begins to deteriorate from the brake fluid. The rubber absorbs the fluid over time and swells, reducing the inside diameter of the hose. When applying brake pressure fluid is forced into the caliper. However, when pressure from the master cylinder is released, the swollen hose actually closes off any fluid flow back into the master cylinder. This keeps the pressure applied to the caliper.

Good luck,
Dusty

kaufman · April 2005

Hi. I bought a 2001 4x4 quad cab Cummins in Oct of 2000. This is my first new truck. Any ways. here it is four years later and this is what s happened,.

Cant keep U joints in the rear drive line since the first month Ive owned it. I average about eight thousand miles per set.

Lost the Tranny...5 speed manual....at 84000 miles.

lost the fuel pickup pump and injector pump at 82000 miles.

Lost injetcter pump again at 87000 and again at 98700 miles.

I now have 99500 and I am scared to keep driving it. it acts like it is starting to starve for fuel again and I think it is the ijecter pump again.

I also had a new turbo and M.A.P. senser installed at 98700

Is this pretty common? The warranty is about to expire and I cant buy and new injecter pump every two thousand miles. That would cost me a dollar per mile just to keep it running.

Also thinking of trading for a new one>? any suggestions? Ford?

mac24 · April 2005

Whether your truck was born with poor health, or whether it's your driving, I think you need to part company before your warranty runs out.

Unfortunately, there's no universally correct answer as to which make you should replace it with. Logic and emotion both play major roles!

KCRam · April 2005

That is definitely not normal for a Cummins Ram. I had my 96 for almost 9 years and 127K with absolutely no engine or U-joint problems. I agree with mac, start shopping for a new truck.

kcram - Pickups Host

larry29 · April 2005

I have a 2000 Ram 1500 5.9L 4x4 On Easter I went out to start up the truck, the engine light stayed on after it started, first time that ever stayed on. I backed out of my area and the truck went dead. I restarted, got to the end of the driveway it died, I restarted it, got on the road and the accelerator acts like it doesn't want to go, it stays going as I keep much pressure on the gas pedal, although it definitely sounds labored to keep going. I immediately turned the truck around to go back to the house, and it died when I stopped it. Back home, I started it up and let it idle, gave it gas and as soon as I let off the gas it dies. All the instruments worked that day. Today I go out, start it up, and let it idle, now the odometer was blinking and finally went into some unreadable configuration, and none of the other instruments work (tach, gas, oil, battery, etc.), even though the engine idles and it still dies after I let off revving it up. Any suggestions? Thanks..... Larry

02ramman · April 2005

Larry,

Check your battery terminals and have your battery checked for the proper voltage and load test. A flaky battery will cause all sorts of problems.

Steve

Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Ram: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions