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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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  • I have a 2001 2500 with a cumming in the last three years the dash instruments have gone dead four times and all the warning lights have come on each time the dealer has worked on it and could not find the trouble before it would clear up on it own. They replacing the cluster and the main control unit. The truck runs OK just I don't know how fast I'm going or how much fuel I have.
  • Has anyone had problems with dealers/manufacturer not performing warranty work for fuel injectors on 2004. I have a 2004 with 32,000 miles. It was starting a little funny, took it to the dealer. They kept it a week and changed a fuel injector. Picked it up and it was worse. Took it back they said it needed all new fuel injectors, pump, and other parts for $5K not covered under warranty. Took it to another dealer they said $10K still not covered. Condensation in fuel rusted injectors. Shouldn't a warranty cover that?
  • kilsterkilster Posts: 55
    I think what you are describing is called Spark Knock. A higher octane fuel will help but not fix it. I think you have a leaking manifold gasket, and is sucking oil into the intake. If you remove your air cleaner and open up your throttle blades, with a flash light you can look down into the intake and see if it is full of oil. There is also a PCM Update that helps with the issue but a dealer will have to do that for you, but you should fix the intake gasket first.
  • kilsterkilster Posts: 55
    If I was you, I would call Daimler/Chrysler and talk with them. I think alot of dealers are trying not to cover it under warranty because they dont want to do the work or dont know how to fix it correctly. I've been fixing about 1 truck every other week and only have had to decline warranty on 1 but it was for other reasons. Unless there is alot of water,condensation, or trash, it should be covered under warranty. Hope with will help you some, good luck.
  • As Kilster mentioned, it could be the plenum gasket. If it is you are using oil now a lot more than before. If you are not using oil, that is not likely the problem. Another thing that frequently causes pinging is carbon build up. There are 2 relatively inexpensive ways to clean some of it out. One is to use some techron fuel injector cleaner. A better way is to get a can of Sea Foam from NAPA and follow the instructions either on the can or website. You want to use the method where the can of Sea Foam is poured into the intake thru a vacuum hose. You will want to change your oil and filter a couple days later also.
  • I have the same problem, I'm really close to going to the stealer :-(
    Have you gotten anywhere fixing your problem?

    I have good voltage everywhere I can check, I also have no front parking lights either................headlights & foglights are OK, so are the blinkers, hazards, and brake lights.

    Thanks in Advance

    The parking lights are controlled by starting at the 50amp fuse #15, and then to the parking light relay #73, then to fuse #32 & #34.
  • kilsterkilster Posts: 55
    Looking at a wiring diagram you have all the right fuses, if you jump the relay do the lights work? The Relay is controlled by the Front control Module, Its the little box connected to the Fuse/PDC Box on the end. If you can jump the relay and all works i would have to say the module could be the problem, assuming that the module gets its input from the Light Switch and the switch is okay.
  • ram100ram100 Posts: 6
    I have a problem that has been bothering me for a while now and I can't seem to pin point it. Every time I am driving over 45 mph, my steering wheel is a lot easier to move to the right than left. It is very noticeable, obviously, because I constantly have to correct my steering just to stay straight. If I let go of the steering wheel, it drives as straight as can be on a flat road. In order to get my truck to turn to the right, I have to turn my steering wheel about 5-8 Degrees further before my wheels turn that direction than if I turned left. My wheels move instantly when I move left of center but takes about an inch before the wheels starts to move to the right. Anyway, now for what I have changed...I have replaced the track bar, steering gearbox, steering dampener and have had it aligned twice. I checked out my pitman arm where it attaches to my drag link/tie-rod and the intersection seems tight. My tie rods seem tight also and I just don't know what to do. This is driving my crazy and is amplified 10X when traveling over 100 miles. The fatigue is a killer and totally wears me out. If anyone has ANY suggestions, I would love to hear them. Thanks in advance.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,596
    Sounds a lot like what my husband's 99 Ram 3500 did when we first got it (bought used). Ended up being a bad steering gear box, I guess they are pretty notorious for that issue. Might want to check there.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Was the gear box you installed new?

    Although I wouldn't say this is a common occurrence, when I hear of this symptom a gear box is always the reason. On your vintage RAM Dodge uses a Saginaw gearbox that is almost identical to the ones used on GM products. And, yes, they have the same kind of problem on those, too. (Of course, on Fords the sector shafts wear!)

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • All I get is cold air from heater ports regardless of where thermostat is set in the cab. Plenty of air, but cold. Feels like heater core is getting plenty of hot water, just not getting air over the coil. Not sure where to look.
  • ram100ram100 Posts: 6
    Dustyk,

    Well, I bought the steering gearbox at Advanced auto about 3 months ago. It is a remanufactured box and I bought it because it was $175.00 verses the $789.00 I was quoted at the Dodge dealer. I guess you "Do" get what you pay for. If this is the Saginaw that I have installed, what gearbox should I buy to fix this? By the way, thanks for the quick reply.

    Bryan
  • ram100ram100 Posts: 6
    Try a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). It is on the right side of your throttle body as you are looking from the front. I had the same problem and looked at the schematic to find out that it was the first sensor in the troubleshooting tree. Before you go out and buy another sensor, try checking the resistance. Disconnect the cable from the sensor and the resistance should read anywhere from 3-5 volts. If it does read good, throw some heavy duty fuel injection cleaner before you fill your tank. Good luck
  • I actually switched the relay with the starter relay, it's the same one #72, and got the same results.
    And I tried a different headlight switch, one without fogs, but that too resulted the same..........no lights. :-(
  • has anyone ever opened up a dodge computer to do repairs? I have a 95 ram van with an electrical short in the ecm. is there a way to remove the resin goop that covers the components on the inside. it appears to be a simple fix if i can get inside without destroying it HELP!
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    As far as I know the Saginaw is the only one made for the Dodge.

    However, I think you said this was a 4WD. Have you checked the ball joints? I find it hard to believe that a balll joint could do this, but if it's real bad, maybe. How are the tires wearing?

    And, despite this potentially being a silly question to you, are you sure that the vehicle is not in four-wheel drive?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • I isolated it down to the gearbox. I faced the gearbox while laying down and turned the steering shaft. I could get about an eighth of a turn right of center and none left of center. The sector shaft has a lot of radial play and this is causing my pitman arm to move left to right before it moves my tie-rods. I know for sure that I don't have it locked in 4-wheel drive :-). My ball joints are good without much play. I am getting another gearbox from Advanced Auto on Saturday and I will keep you posted. Thanks for the help and suggestions.



    Bryan
  • Hi All New to the chat room, I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 that I purchessed about 4 months ago USED didn't get a Owners Manual or a 2ed Remote Key BOB for Locking and UNLocking the Doors. So went by my Local Dealer to check on one this past weekend and they want $58.00 with tax for the Unit, and then a another $45.90 with tax to program it to to my truck !!! :mad: Why so Much? is there a way to Program it myself?
    Thanks for the feed and and help
  • Unfortunately the $58.00 sounds like the going price. If people will buy it, they will keep charging that much. As for the program fee, $45.90 is ridiculous and I wouldn't ever go back to them. They are just like car salesman/woman when they come up to you with the first trade in offer on your vehicle before you freak out on them and force them to go back and talk to their "Manager". They hope you just say, "OK" and then hand them the cash. Most car dealers that truly value your return business will/should waive this programming charge. But, you will always pay it if you don't question it. Beside the fact that the programming fee should be included in the FOB price. Haggle with them. That's what makes their world go round. If they refuse to program for free, buy the remote from someone else that will. Good luck,

    Bryan
  • Dusty,

    I recently had my ABS, Brake, and Air Bag light all stay on along with A/C not working, speedometer not working at all, power locks not locking, and power windows not working. Took several rounds with a dealership and searching on the Internet but found that it could be the rear speed sensor. I bought that and replaced and everything seems to be okay now, even though it didn't fix it immediately. One day it just started working after the sensor was replaced and has been working for a few months now. However, I still have a Brake light that stays on and I have done all I know to do. I just replaced brakes all the way around this weekend and had rotors turned. I found that one of the springs had broke in the right rear wheel and had messed up the brake pad a little and I had my hopes that it was causing the light to stay on. I have checked fluid and parking brake lines with no success. What would be the next logical step at this point. I have basically lost all faith in the local dealerships around here because they almost acted as if I was the stupid one when describing this problem.

    Thanks,
    Shawn
  • Well I live in the southern tip of texas and as I recall there was no sparks. Since my last post I've noticed that when I pump the gas pedal a couple of times the truck turns on a bit quicker. It still studders a little but not as much if i pump the pedal.
  • You can find the remotes much cheaper on Ebay and some sellers will also provide the programming instructions. I believe thye owners manual also includes the programming instructions too!. These too can be found on Ebay. Rick
  • I am having the same problem with my 02 RAM 1500 QuadCab. Dropping my truck off at the dealer tonight. I'll post another reply when they have a solution.
  • woking on 1991 dodge ram 150 and can't seem to find the crank sensor. Where would it be located? would this cause the pu not to have spark?
  • My 1998 dodge ram 1500 5.9 automatic died on me while it was idling as I sat parked eating a delicious Wendy's hamburger.... thats funny I thought.... finished my burger and then it would not start ....... it turns over, but doesn't even pretend to want to start as if it was out of gas..... but i have over half a tank still....... my first thought was fuel pump or relay.... but that checked out, and there is pressure in the fuel lines.... then i pulled a plug wire and checked for spark with a screwdriver, and there is spark.... so that leads me to believe that it is a problem with the fuel injectors, but I'm not much of a mechanic.... i checked for fuses and relays, but couldn't find anything for the injectors..... Am i barking up the wrong tree? Anybody have any ideas...... any help would be appreciated
  • I am a jet engine mechanic and know quite a bit about combustion engines. If you were idling fine and all of a sudden the engine died, it is probably not the injectors. More than likely there is something wrong with a relay or computer problem which is responsible for scheduling fuel flow. If you have spark and fuel but it will not stay running, it might be a serious vacuum leak. Make sure all connections are tight around the throttle body as this is one of the major area's for vacuum leaks and loose sensors. If any sensor is disconnected or failed, that is attached to, or has anything to do with the throttle body, you will not have sustained ignition/idle. Your starter sounds good and obviously the distributer is good if you get spark. The only thing left is the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) , automatic shut down relay, sensors, fuel scheduling issue or a vacuum leak. Good luck though, this can either be very tricky to isolate or something at simple as a loose battery terminal.

    Bryan
  • hey y'all.new to club. have the (canadian) lift pump fix from dodge issued may 2005. it is a intank pump/sender unit that replaces existing pump with supplied bypass plate. all wiring and relays,housings and connections included.it is classified as a repair kit.
    part #05175538-AA repair kit 14-073-002 >listed $538.00 c$
    run a 2002 RAM 3500 isb turbo diesel, 4x4 4inch shot gun exhaust(home made) air hog/custom air box modification,new vp44, now new lift pump #4, did relocation of stock from engine to infront of tank to keep from burning out - 3;55 gears,auto 47re built to spec i requested(3rd trans)just broke over drive housing at transfer case. know this sound serious but have 1/2 million kilometers on it and use it for RV delivery driving 10-18 hours a day at 65-75 miles per hour. still pulls 12.5-14.0 mpg.any one with any how to's or power increases(mechanical not plug and play), i would be interested in talking. found cam replacement that is good for 400 hp and up to 600hp with add ons.any ways hope that the lift pump will be helpfull
  • The problem is the connections on the PCB (printed circuit board) inside the instrument cluster.
    It's easy to fix yourself.
    You must remove the cluster, disconnect the wire harness.
    Remove the cardboard on the back of the cluster, and now you have access to the PCB.
    Remove the screws holding the PCB in place.
    Turn the PCB over and inspect the solder connections on the wire harness connector. They will be cracked.
    Resolder the connections, reassemble.
    Now your speedometer, tach, fuel guage ect... will work.
  • gjsgjs Posts: 3
    I took my speed sensor in for replacement at an auto parts store but the two they have listed as a replacement look nothing like the original. The cataloge they have shows a Ford sensor that looks the same. Do I have to go to the dealer for this? My part # is 2034
  • Purchased a new FCM (Front Control Module), seems that's the problem part. Now I'm just waiting for the dealer to get. Then I just have to get the part home to try it out.
    Waiting...................................
This discussion has been closed.