Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Regards,
Dusty
Tom
My advice is replace the transmission filter, flush the system, clean or replace the anti-drainback valve, and install fresh new ATF+3.
DO NOT USE DEXRON-MERCON OR A MODIFIED DEXRON-MERCON IN A DODGE OR CHRYSLER VEHICLE. NEVER!
Best regards,
Dusty
I have tried some dry gas and 1 tank of new fuel . It seems to be getting worse. I have not driven her on the road since this trouble. Please Help
sharee123
I replaced the switch and it solved the problem. When I looked at the old switch, it was evident it had been too hot. At O'Rielly Auto parts it cost $16.99 for '97 model 3500, Dodge 5.9L diesel.
dalej
Have you recently installed anything like aftermarket Fog Lamps, Stereo etc?
Has anyone (including so called reputable mechanical establishments!) recently changed an electrical component on your truck?
These trucks are built with factory installed safety appliances that are made to “original” specifications, such as the fuses and circuit breakers. As so, any additional load on a circuit (although your trucks normal purchased “AS IS” Electrical load is already factory increased by up to 3X {wire gauge, fuse and circuit breaker current carrying capacity) to allow for minor enhancements. A simple check on recently installed electrical items will normally identify the problem device! EG;
My headlights were Blinking on and off, problem was, someone put a single contact bulb in the duel contact rear right side brake/parking lamp socket. Everything at the time seemed to work! I didn’t notice the difference in brightness between right and left brake lights. I eventually started to smell the firewall wiring harness burning!
Another annoying electrical problem that will cost big bucks is bad connections!
EG; A few years ago (in a FORD!)
After driving and my truck reached operating temperature it was hard to or would not start. Sounded to me like dead batteries so I replaced them. No luck, and the same problem existed. I replaced the Alternator, thinking my Batteries were not charging. Ended up being a simple problem with a bad connection at the +(POS) battery connection at the starter.
When the Engine was cold the electrical connection was good and the vehicle started no problem (metal contracts (tightens) when cold) after driving for a few miles the electrical connection at the starter expanded and no longer was able to conduct the amount of current in order to crank the engine! Lots of money spent for nothing that a cleaning with emery cloth would have fixed!
I wonder if anyone can give me an idea of what to check on my 1997 dodge ram 1500. It has a small V8 and is 2 wheel drive. Stick shift , with 106,000 miles. My truck sat about 3 months. I was waiting for a buddy to put in new brake line. After I was back on the road the truck runs very rough.
It seems to run worse at takeoff from 1st gear.
I have put in a fresh tank of gas and a bottle of dri-gas.
Any suggestion?
Should I look to battery,alternator? Is there a fuel filter? Computers? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I really need a little help. Today we changed the plugs and cleaned the throttle body and changed the plugs. The truck a 1997 dodge ram 1500 is running like a bucking bronco. It idles ok sittling still it is only after I take it out on the road and bear down on it. Please give any suggestions
Good luck,
Dusty
Well, since this is a fresh disassembly/rebuild, did you check the rear band? If misadjusted you'd either slip real bad or have no reverse.
If the direct clutch spring is not broken, is it binding during reassembly and collapsing?
Other possibilities include a loss of front clutch operation, a missing or failed overdrive thrust bearing, or your missing a check ball in the valve body.
Good luck!
Best regards,
Dusty
On the other hand I've seen a few fuel pump relays go intermittent. It might be worth checking.
Best regards,
Dusty
My advice would be to start with replacing the ignition components, such as distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, etc. If the fuel filter is okay I'd next suspect a bad catalytic converter, stuck EGR valve, a vacuum leak (rubber hoses), or a bad intake manifold gasket.
Bests,
Dusty
I typically see Dodge trucks with 180 - 200K without anything major replaced (rings, bearings, etc.) My sons '91 V6 Dakota went 290K with only a timing chain replacement.
Dodge powerplants are solid.
Best regards,
Dusty
I don't baby my vehicles but I do believe in proper maintenance.
Have you noticed this at all Dusty?
Does anyone know how to fix this?
The ABS light could be caused by more than just low brake fluid. There is a sensor on every wheel, and the system itself could have a problem(the computer itself, brake fluid improperly bled off the controller) It's probably best to get a shop to look at it, or get a good code reader.
Is the spedo the only thing that fails on instrument panel? A code reader might help out there too if the speed sending unit is messed up. The instrument panel could be hosed too. Got another truck you could swap panels with? I know, I'm no help =O(
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/22-01-97.htm
There is a RAM in the neighborhood here that I see parked almost every day, but I don't know the frequency it's actually driven. I'll ask the owner sometime.
I have seen two and heard about a couple of more RAMs that have had intermittent or no start problems caused by a bad Automatic Shutdown Relay. May not be an easy area to troubleshoot if you don't have a good knowledge of Dodge truck electrical systems.
Bests,
Dusty
I had some friends take a look at it and they ran through the normal checks: fuses are all ok, alternator's ok, battery is still good, fuse box is ok. The truck is currently being looked at by a mechanic but even he isn't completely sure what the problem could be. His best assessment: the PCI bus between the cluster and the relays isn't doing it's job. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this before? If so, any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks.
Good new is, if thats what it is you don't need a new tranny just a new overdrive unit. Comes out of the back of the tranny, but not a job for a do it yourselfer. Call a dealer and ask them about it over the phone (so they don't charge to look at it ;o))
I am told the injection pump has failed but I find that hard to believe because I have never had an injection pump on a tractor or combine fail with so few hours of operation and this experience has been for 30yrs on the farm.
My truck is a 2000Ram 5.9L diesel. I would like to be able to operate the truck without the electronics on the injector pump. I know this sounds like a step in to the past but the electronics on the farm have just cost me money spent for no gain.
Less than 200 miles later, transmission starts slipping a block from home. Checked fluid=full. Fluid was nasty brown and burnt smell. Pulled pan, drained fluid, new filter, removed the return line at transmission and kept adding fluid untill it looked the right color.
In drive there was almost no fluid coming through the return line, neutral the same thing. Reverse had great fluid flow, so I used reverse for most of the process.
I tried it out, around 25 miles o/d dropped out, another 10 trans temp light came on. So I sat for an hour then started home, repeating the o/d, trans temp, stop for an hour several times.
What can I do next? Shifting is fine now, runs great, just overheating from lack of flow in drive i guess.
Thanks
Jim