Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

dustyk · January 2006

Well, could be the EGR, especially if you say it idles poorly after warm up. The fuel pump should produce a steady sound at idle.

Regards,
Dusty

tdoherty · January 2006

I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 5.9L with 101,000 miles. I dont know what kind of rear end it has. The transmission shifts fine when i am gentle, but when i work it, it shifts rougher. It is a quick, rough shift, is this normal or a beginning of a trans problem?
Tom

ramguy79 · January 2006

I replace everything that the overhaul kit came with the bands, gaskets, clutches, o-rings, seals, everything that's why this no reverse thing has my mind gone. I order the magazine from a Dodge/Chrysler web site along with the overhaul kit. I went through the manual page by page and the only solution in there was change the direct clutch and spring. I did just that, and still no reverse. I don't get it all other gears work just fine. what do you think???????????

thegspot · January 2006

I took my '01 1500 RAM 5.9L on a 200 mile trip and left the vehicle unattended for 6 days in a parking lot. The vehicle was running fine when I left it. Upon return, I tried to start it and it turned over fine, but would not start, as if it was not getting fuel. I saw that the fuel gauge was pegged at empty although it had 1/2 a tank went parked. I thought someone stole the fuel and added two gallons, but there was no difference. I had it towed to a mechanic late that night and he ;looked at it the next day. It started after he had attached the diagnostic plug without any other tampering. It worked fine for several days, but I have lost confidence in taking the truck on extended drives. Any experience with not starting with the fuel gauge pegged on empty when there is over half a tank?

cumminatya · January 2006

I have a '99 Ram 2500 with the 5.9L i changed bulbs in fog lamps, and fuses are good in fuse panel under hood and inside cab, but they still do not work. Any other suggestions to try would be greatly appreciated.

tom250ibs · January 2006

Wish my old chevy had forward gears instead of reverse, witch is all i have now after only 2 loads of fire wood. i have atsg manual and a number of things can cause no reverse with that new a truck i would suggest a new or used trans. or have pro. shop rebuild or fix it.Your trucks not quit like mine (junk truck no title chevy)But getting back to it some salvage yards that tak in wrecks may be some good deals . i did it with transfer case it was good just make sure so sorta garantee wether it trans. works or time i love straight drives

dustyk · January 2006

Well, a number of things could cause this symptom. Inadequate oil flow or low pump pressure is usually the culprit. Low, dirty or oxidized transmission fluid can be the cause, a dirty (restricted) transmission filter or a restricted, partially clogged anti-drain back valve, or clogged shift body are also likely causes.

My advice is replace the transmission filter, flush the system, clean or replace the anti-drainback valve, and install fresh new ATF+3.

DO NOT USE DEXRON-MERCON OR A MODIFIED DEXRON-MERCON IN A DODGE OR CHRYSLER VEHICLE. NEVER!

Best regards,
Dusty

richtree · January 2006

I have a 97 Ram 1500. After sitting a week, I started it with no problem. The next day it wouldn't start. Now, it starts randomly when its cold and runs fine but when I shut it off it won't restart. I pulled a plug and there is no spark. I can smell gas so I don't think fuel is the problem. Can this be the computer?

sharee123 · January 2006

I wonder if anyone can help me my dodge ram 1500 5.2 was running fine. I recently had her parked for about three months now the car idles very rough and it seems to be worse at take-off or after stopping at a light and then going.
I have tried some dry gas and 1 tank of new fuel . It seems to be getting worse. I have not driven her on the road since this trouble. Please Help
sharee123

loncray · January 2006

Dusty is the expert here, but at a guess I'd say there's a chance your battery is going dead. The Chrysler batteries are notorious for going bad early. Have your battery checked - esp. to see if one cell has gone bad.

richtree · January 2006

Thanks for the reply.....The battery is OK and the motor cranks fine, it just won't fire. On the other hand, I could try to start it at a random time and it fires right up and runs great. But then I shut it off and it won't refire. Rich

dalej · January 2006

I had a problem with my headlight switch. The park lights would either go off or not come on. When that happened, I had no tail lights or clearance lights (even tho I had headlights).

I replaced the switch and it solved the problem. When I looked at the old switch, it was evident it had been too hot. At O'Rielly Auto parts it cost $16.99 for '97 model 3500, Dodge 5.9L diesel.

dalej

sharee123 · January 2006

sorry the truck has a small v8 the plugs have about 20,000 miles on them any suggestions about running rough?

etech1 · January 2006

If you are experiencing an Electrical problem, first look at the obvious:
Have you recently installed anything like aftermarket Fog Lamps, Stereo etc?
Has anyone (including so called reputable mechanical establishments!) recently changed an electrical component on your truck?
These trucks are built with factory installed safety appliances that are made to original specifications, such as the fuses and circuit breakers. As so, any additional load on a circuit (although your trucks normal purchased AS IS Electrical load is already factory increased by up to 3X {wire gauge, fuse and circuit breaker current carrying capacity) to allow for minor enhancements. A simple check on recently installed electrical items will normally identify the problem device! EG;
My headlights were Blinking on and off, problem was, someone put a single contact bulb in the duel contact rear right side brake/parking lamp socket. Everything at the time seemed to work! I didnt notice the difference in brightness between right and left brake lights. I eventually started to smell the firewall wiring harness burning!
Another annoying electrical problem that will cost big bucks is bad connections!
EG; A few years ago (in a FORD!)
After driving and my truck reached operating temperature it was hard to or would not start. Sounded to me like dead batteries so I replaced them. No luck, and the same problem existed. I replaced the Alternator, thinking my Batteries were not charging. Ended up being a simple problem with a bad connection at the +(POS) battery connection at the starter.
When the Engine was cold the electrical connection was good and the vehicle started no problem (metal contracts (tightens) when cold) after driving for a few miles the electrical connection at the starter expanded and no longer was able to conduct the amount of current in order to crank the engine! Lots of money spent for nothing that a cleaning with emery cloth would have fixed!

sharee123 · January 2006

Hey guys,
I wonder if anyone can give me an idea of what to check on my 1997 dodge ram 1500. It has a small V8 and is 2 wheel drive. Stick shift , with 106,000 miles. My truck sat about 3 months. I was waiting for a buddy to put in new brake line. After I was back on the road the truck runs very rough.
It seems to run worse at takeoff from 1st gear.
I have put in a fresh tank of gas and a bottle of dri-gas.
Any suggestion?
Should I look to battery,alternator? Is there a fuel filter? Computers? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

sharee123 · January 2006

hey guys,
I really need a little help. Today we changed the plugs and cleaned the throttle body and changed the plugs. The truck a 1997 dodge ram 1500 is running like a bucking bronco. It idles ok sittling still it is only after I take it out on the road and bear down on it. Please give any suggestions

mac24 · January 2006

As this occurred after the truck had be standing for a while, there's a good chance it could be caused by corrosion giving a high resistance at on of the sensor connectors. First thing to check is if the computer is showing any codes. I'm not sure if you can view them on the odometer on your truck, but if not then Autozone will pull them up for free.

cumminatya · January 2006

i have a 99 dodge ram 2500 4x4 diesel can anybody please explain the process to change the front rotors. please help!

dustyk · January 2006

My first suspects would be the ignition components and then the hall effect sensor in the distributor. Yes, there could be a cumputer problem but these don't have high failures rates.

Good luck,
Dusty

dustyk · January 2006

Hmmm.

Well, since this is a fresh disassembly/rebuild, did you check the rear band? If misadjusted you'd either slip real bad or have no reverse.

If the direct clutch spring is not broken, is it binding during reassembly and collapsing?

Other possibilities include a loss of front clutch operation, a missing or failed overdrive thrust bearing, or your missing a check ball in the valve body.

Good luck!

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · January 2006

It's possible that the draining of the fuel tank could lose the fuel pump prime. I once ran out of gas on my '03 Dakota and I know I had put enough gas in the tank. Yet it was a bear to get restarted.

On the other hand I've seen a few fuel pump relays go intermittent. It might be worth checking.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · January 2006

Sharee,

My advice would be to start with replacing the ignition components, such as distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, etc. If the fuel filter is okay I'd next suspect a bad catalytic converter, stuck EGR valve, a vacuum leak (rubber hoses), or a bad intake manifold gasket.

Bests,
Dusty

jesselink50 · January 2006

I just bought a 2001 Dodge 1500 4x4. This thing seems great so far but i've only had it for one day. It has 132,000 miles on it. I was just wondering, with that many miles, what the experts think im going to have to do to keep this truck alive and what problems should i be expecting to have to deal with in the future. How many miles should i be able to get out of it? I was hoping around 300,000. Am i being naieve?

kzsunseeker · January 2006

I have exactly the same problem on my 2001 Ram 2500. Did you have any success in finding a replacement?

bryab002 · January 2006

I have 1 1997 dodge ram 2500 that will not shift out of first gear. I tried replacing the speed sensor, but that was not the problem. Any suggestions? Thank you.

dustyk · January 2006

Dodge truck engines have a reputation for going severe distances in terms of miles and years, assuming reasonable care and maintenance. In ny area up until a few years ago, there was a fellow that had a early seventies Plymouth Scamp (2dr hardtop Valiant, like the Dodge Dart Swinger) with a 318 V8. It had 505,000 miles on it without a tear down or valve job.

I typically see Dodge trucks with 180 - 200K without anything major replaced (rings, bearings, etc.) My sons '91 V6 Dakota went 290K with only a timing chain replacement.

Dodge powerplants are solid.

Best regards,
Dusty

mills2 · January 2006

thanks schmedly, I was recently in an accident and the radiator needed replaced. Sure enough I'd been driving with an empty radiator. I'm not sure how I didn't overheat the engine. Filled her up and running fine and no longer getting the check gauges.

kalvin · January 2006

I have a 2004 HO cummins. When I rev the motor in neutral, and let off, my motor Idles down very rough and usually miss two or three times. Compared to idleing down very smooth. I had a problem with the wiring to my crankshaft positioning sensor grounding out. Dodge fixed it, but the rough idling is still there. Where should I start looking for problems?

timgosa · January 2006

Did you ever figure it out?

timgosa · January 2006

I have a 2002 Ram 1500 4x4, Quad Cab, all that good stuff.. i bought it used and have had it for almost a year now.. my latest trouble with it i believe has something to do with the security system. I went to get in it and it wouldn't unlock by my clicker thing, so i unlocked the door with the key. When i opened the door i noticed i have no overhead lights. It starts and i can drive it, i have headlights, tail lights, brake lights, my radio works, and my power windows work. but thats it. My entire cluster is dead, the switch to turn my headlights, overhead, cargo, the radio and cruise control buttons on the steering wheel,horn, turn signals, hazards, the overhead computer, all of that does not work.. but the red security light is on constant... i have checked fuses, disconnected the battery, even called the dealership and they didn't know what it was. this is the latest in a list of problems i have had.... a friend mentioned something about a valet lockout....anyone have any ideas????

jneal · January 2006

I have 120K on my 93 DAK V6 with no major problems. Replaced front wheel bearings and water pump. Otherwise just routine maint. items such as spark plugs and filters etc. Engine still doesn't use a drop of oil and gets pretty well the same mileage it did when new.
I don't baby my vehicles but I do believe in proper maintenance.

mac24 · January 2006

.........based on what I'm seeing here and from observation around my neighborhood. It would seem that Ram pickups are susceptible to odd non-starting problems when left standing for three weeks or more. Four Ram owners (gas and diesel) in my surrounding area have returned from long holiday breaks to find their trucks won't start.

Have you noticed this at all Dusty?

beenie0 · January 2006

My son owns this truck and is having a problem with the ABS brake light staying on and the speedometer sitting on 25 MPH. He has checked his brake fluid and it's full. He also replaced the speed sensor with an after market part, but is still having the problem.

Does anyone know how to fix this?

gwynn1 · January 2006

I am experiencing a problem with overheating and warping of rotors every 5-6000 kms. I drive mainly highway and have never experienced this prior to the new model year. This truck is equipped with the 20" inch rims and wheels. If anyone else has experienced this problem please let me know.

loncray · January 2006

Kalvin - I'm wondering if you might have water in your fuel? There should be a little valve on the side you can open to let any water out (into a bucket - don't get diesel all over the ground!) I haven't heard of any particular problems with the fuel pumps on the 3rd Generation CTD's - the older ones had problems - and the only time my '03 CTD had any similar problems it was gelled fuel in below 20 degree temperatures.

brooksd · January 2006

Same problem on my 90 van, no 12 volt positve at coil, now all I have to do is find short, temp fix was to run positive lead to coil from cigarette lighter plug then start normal, pull plug when turning off.

funckes1 · January 2006

I have heard this complaint time and again and have had the symptoms myself in my 04'. Let me ask you this....What makes you think it's warped rotors? A vibrating steering wheel I'm guessing? Do you feel the vibration in your brake pedal? If not, don't you think you would ;O) Here is the thing about the dodge ram and those [non-permissible content removed] [non-permissible content removed] 20" rims. The rims don't stay centered on the hub! No S%$#T. I get this about every 15,000 miles or so, here is what you do. Jack your truck up off the ground and unscrew all your lug nuts. Tighten them back down being very careful to get the whell on strait(centered with the lugs). Put your truck back down on the ground and drive away. That's it. I swear this sounds dumb as hell but it will solve your problem. I first hit this at about 17,000 miles. I had a talk with my dad(mr mechanic) and described the problem to him, he said this, If your brake rotars are warped you will notice it the BRAKE pedal. If it is your steering wheel it is a misalignment or your tire is screwed up. So to test his thoery I rotated my tires. The problem moved from my front to what seemed very softly in the rear, and well I'm sorta lazy so I didn't get it looked at and about 500 miles later it was gone all togather. I had the problem again at about 32,000. I took the tires off and put em back on, all gone. I had it again at about 45,000 I took the tires off to change my brakes and put them back on and oops! my right front must not have got on strait. My new brake pad started making that big rig honkin noise after about 3-400 miles and it was vibrating like a crazy [non-permissible content removed]. I took that wheel off inspected the rotor and put it back on, about 500 miles of squeakin went by(probably got a hard spot) but it's all better now. So even if you think I'm full of BS it's free to put your jack under the thing and loosen and retighten your lugs. I have about 48,000 on my 2004 and I haven't had a rotor turned yet and there is no vibration. You can buy me a coke later.

tdoherty · January 2006

Thank you very much, i will do those things. So you dont think my transmission will fail anytime soon?

funckes1 · January 2006

There is a TSB that may possible effect the ABS/Brake thing http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/971.htm

The ABS light could be caused by more than just low brake fluid. There is a sensor on every wheel, and the system itself could have a problem(the computer itself, brake fluid improperly bled off the controller) It's probably best to get a shop to look at it, or get a good code reader.

Is the spedo the only thing that fails on instrument panel? A code reader might help out there too if the speed sending unit is messed up. The instrument panel could be hosed too. Got another truck you could swap panels with? I know, I'm no help =O(

crisp1 · January 2006

Wondering if someone can help me out. Tranny started hesitating shifting into third.CE light then came on. Mechanics scanner showed speed control sensor. Mechanic changed it.Did no good. Told me I could drive it till he had more time. Drove for three weeks tranny went bad(46RE). Replaced tranny and CE light still shows speed control sensor. Checked wiring is OK. New tranny shifts too slow or too fast. Afraid to drive. Getting too much money invested as I,m trying to replace this pickup. I bought it new and never abused it. THANKS

funckes1 · January 2006

This might apply also, the tires on the 20" rims seem to have a high radial run out on the front end, at least in my 4X4 with 20's. I rotate my tires every time I take them off (see previos relpy to your msg)

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/22-01-97.htm

dustyk · January 2006

No. But in all honesty I don't believe I've run across a scenario where a RAM has been parked for an extended period either.

There is a RAM in the neighborhood here that I see parked almost every day, but I don't know the frequency it's actually driven. I'll ask the owner sometime.

I have seen two and heard about a couple of more RAMs that have had intermittent or no start problems caused by a bad Automatic Shutdown Relay. May not be an easy area to troubleshoot if you don't have a good knowledge of Dodge truck electrical systems.

Bests,
Dusty

funckes1 · January 2006

Unfortunatly there are many horror stories regarding the ram and 4 speed autos :lemon: , many people have had bad luck. I'm hoping the 5 speed shows better results down the road(cause I got one). Anyways, have they reset the computer after they changed the tranny? The truck's computer and tranny computer are learning computers, if they didn't reset the computer the truck might still be looking for your old tranny. It takes many many many key cycles to learn something new unless you start it over. I hope to god they at least reset the DTC's and your not looking at the same speed control error that hasn't cleared yet(hey ya never know I had a friend of mine, ya know..whew!) In addidtion did you replace it with a dodge tranny? If so make sure you are using the ATF+3 or ATF+4 fluid that is recomended, my tranny takes ATF+4 and I've found that....well none of little shops I talk to carry it, I can't even find it at autozone. So some mechanics will just dump whatever into your tranny and charge you for the fluid change. The MOPAR ATF+ fluid is very very important to chrysler transmissions, it contains stuff that keeps your tranny from ripping itself apart :sick:. Don't let a shop put anything else in there. I am no tranny expert so I would make sure the shop you are using to do the work is very reputable. Transmissions are a very sesitive thing, one thing not tightened just right, or some dirt gets up in there, etc. can spell disaster. Is your shop going to at least warranty thier work for some period? Good luck!

kevin239 · January 2006

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4x4 with 82,000 miles. The transmission is being rebuilt as I type

. The shop said that the clutch pack is worn out and I have broken bands. It will not get out of second gear unless I drop it into neutral and then back into drive. Then it goes into 3rd gear. Hopefully it won't cost too much and take too long. Words of advice...Don't buy a used Dodge Ram with a 46re transmission. Known for failures at 80,000 to 90,000 miles!! :sick:

kevin239 · January 2006

Might be time to replace the transmission :lemon: . have you had the fluid and filter changed??

orangerider · January 2006

I have a '97 Ram 1500, 82,000 miles, 5.2 Engine, Auto trans with HD towing package. I have a peculiar problem and am looking for some direction. On two separate occasions while driving on the freeway, cruise control on, going approx. 65 MPH on flat roadway (no hills or grades) the RPM of the engine started to rise but the vehicle gained no speed. It was as if the trans was slipping. I tapped the brake to interrupt the cruise control. I used the regular old foot throttle to control the trucks' speed for the rest of the trip home and the slipping condition never resurfaced. This has happened twice. I have owned the truck since new. The trans was flushed at 28,000 miles and the pan was dropped (new filter installed) at 75,000 miles. Other than this the trans seems fine. Anybody out there have this happen to them? What was the fix? Thanks.

blindcyde · January 2006

Don't know why and I don't know how, but for some reason my instrument panel is not working anymore. The truck starts and runs perfectly fine, but none of the gauges work at all! The lights out, the odometer's out, I can't use the horn or my turn signals either. Thankfully the headlights do come on whenever I turn the truck on, but that's about it.

I had some friends take a look at it and they ran through the normal checks: fuses are all ok, alternator's ok, battery is still good, fuse box is ok. The truck is currently being looked at by a mechanic but even he isn't completely sure what the problem could be. His best assessment: the PCI bus between the cluster and the relays isn't doing it's job. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this before? If so, any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks.

funckes · January 2006

I haven't experienced it myself but if it only happes in overdrive and not in regular operation your overdrive unit might be going bad. I believe this is also a known prob on models older than 2003(I've hear in 03 Dodge released updated clutches, seals and piston for the overdrive units.)

Good new is, if thats what it is you don't need a new tranny just a new overdrive unit. Comes out of the back of the tranny, but not a job for a do it yourselfer. Call a dealer and ask them about it over the phone (so they don't charge to look at it ;o))

3534 · January 2006

I have codes PO251,PO252,1689
I am told the injection pump has failed but I find that hard to believe because I have never had an injection pump on a tractor or combine fail with so few hours of operation and this experience has been for 30yrs on the farm.
My truck is a 2000Ram 5.9L diesel. I would like to be able to operate the truck without the electronics on the injector pump. I know this sounds like a step in to the past but the electronics on the farm have just cost me money spent for no gain.

flamingoo · January 2006

I have a 2001 dodge ram 1500 4x4 318 engine, with trans cooler. The problem is I had the oil changed at wal-mart... I noticed their new employee was putting transmission fluid in, or now I think it was possibly oil in the transmission.

Less than 200 miles later, transmission starts slipping a block from home. Checked fluid=full. Fluid was nasty brown and burnt smell. Pulled pan, drained fluid, new filter, removed the return line at transmission and kept adding fluid untill it looked the right color.

In drive there was almost no fluid coming through the return line, neutral the same thing. Reverse had great fluid flow, so I used reverse for most of the process.

I tried it out, around 25 miles o/d dropped out, another 10 trans temp light came on. So I sat for an hour then started home, repeating the o/d, trans temp, stop for an hour several times.

What can I do next? Shifting is fine now, runs great, just overheating from lack of flow in drive i guess.

Thanks
Jim

Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Ram: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions