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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • frannie66frannie66 Member Posts: 1
  • tpmakrtpmakr Member Posts: 2
    I need help. I will try to be as brief as possible. In March of 2005 I bought a 2004 Dodge diesel with 20,000 miles. On Oct 18, 2005, with 30,000 miles I took it to the dealership when the rear end started howling when decelerating from 45mph on down (I subsequently found out the truck had the ring gear and pinion worked on at 6,000 and 18,000 by the original owner). I am the second owner and I transferred the additional warranty such as the 7/70,000. The dealership adjusted the ring gear and pinion three different times before they decided to replace the complete axle. The truck then developed a droning, pulsating noise that occurred from 54mph up and it still had the rear end howl. I have had the truck in 10 times for a total of 52 days. They replaced and rebalanced the different drive shaft about six times, they replaced the torque convertor, ujoints, overhauled the overdrive system, installed a dampner on the exhaust just before the muffler, who knows what else. The last time I had the truck in they readjusted the ring gear and pinion from .008 to .004. It got rid of the deceleration howl but now it howls when accelerating from 35 on up. Plus there is now metal shavings on the fill plug. The dealership said they talked to Dodge engineers and the local Dodge tech rep and made adjustments they recommended but the truck still has the two different noises. The dealership finally said they can't fix it and the shop foreman told me there a lot of trucks out there with the same problems. And after working on it all this time they now say Dodge says the noises are normal. I called Dodge and they told me to take it to another dealership. I did and they won't work on it because they say they have worked on other trucks with the same noises and they couldn't fix them either. Both dealerships told me that Dodge is fully aware of these problems but won't address them. Folks, I just recently retired and this is my first Dodge diesel. I really like this truck except for the problems I am having with the rear end. I was going to buy a 5th wheel and do some traveling with the wife, but I am afraid to go anywhere in this truck much less pull a trailer with it. The truck now has 36,900 miles on it. Retirement is not suppose to go this way!!! What should I do mechanically? Do I have any legal recourse? Would a lawyer do any good against the Dodge Corporation? Can anyone out there help? Sorry this post is so long. Thanks for any assistance that can be given to me.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I personally would be pushing hard for a complete rear end replacement instead of trying to repair that one.
    I don't know where you live but most states do have lemon laws. Most attorneys will give an initial consultation at little or no cost and let you know if you have any options, just find one that specializes in lemon law.
  • newdodgeownernewdodgeowner Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a used 2001 Ram QC with just alittle over 70,000 miles on it. I was reading some of the past forums and was wondering if someone could tell me what tranny mine has in it. It has the 5.9L. As I have only had this truck for about a week and have only put 600 miles on it and have had no major problems yet. The only problem I do have is when I turn my headlights on and tilt the steering wheel into the position I like to drive in the dims go out. But if I tilt it up one notch they come back on. Anyone else ever had this problem and if so can they tell me what the problem is.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Gonna be kinda hard for anyone to tell you what transmission you may have without knowing whether you have an automatic or a manual.......my crystal ball is kinda fogged over today. :D
  • wfullerwfuller Member Posts: 22
    So i got a NEW problem, i was told that i had a bad ground because my truck would crank and die and my cd player lost power, so i attempted to move the ground which i was told was the engine block ground.. when i did and i cranked it it wouldnt start, so i moved it back to it's original location (a bolt holding on a pully on the belt) and now i have a MIL code 25.. and i cant find an index online anywhere to tell me what the code is, any help? the truck wont start at all, but it's cranking and all the lights work and the battery is good and all that jazz.
  • nucmacnucmac Member Posts: 1
    I need help. I am having great difficulty getting my old rotors off my 2002 RAM 1500. I removed the calipers and then expected I would need to hammer off the old rotors because of rust and all but I CAN'T BUST IT LOOSE!

    Am I missing something or is this struggle normal? This is the first vehicle I have owned with rear disk brakes so I am a little unsure of myself but I've done my own brake work for the last 25 years and never struggled like this!
  • newdodgeownernewdodgeowner Member Posts: 4
    Sorry it has a automatic in it.
  • pepperbellypepperbelly Member Posts: 1
    I will try brevity here, however...

    I just accquired a 2001 Ram 2500 SLT. 2wd, 5.9 well equipped. 24,000 KM. The truck has been in storage since '01. After installing a new battery, it is impossible to get passed the security system in this truck. Three dealerships have ran the serial number (vin) and determined that it does NOT have a passive key.

    Using a Snap-on MT2500 scanner, there is "no communication" with the "body" ecm. A Chrysler tech brought out a DRB chrysler box, and could not access the security system. We have chased down numerous wires in the schematics, to no avail. yet, the security light keeps flashing, the truck will only run for 2-3 seconds after starting, before shutting down.

    A new BCM is coming in the morning, we are going to try this tomorrow evening. Locking and unlocking the doors has no effect on the security system...anyone have any ideas or simillar problems?

    Thank you
  • dahuberdahuber Member Posts: 53
    You didn't say whether 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton.
    1/2=46re
    3/4=47re
  • wfullerwfuller Member Posts: 22
    So my truck wont crank well unless i give it gas and it now has begun to stall at times when i'm driving, sometimes it kicks right back on and sometimes it doesnt. I keep losing power to my radio head unit when it dies. I think it may be the fuel pump but my gauge works and the truck does still run, any suggestions?
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Load test your battery and make sure all cable connections are clean and tight. Do you have MIL on or does it ever flicker on and off?
  • jwhiskeyjwhiskey Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005, 1500, quad cab, with 12000 miles on it. I started noticing a vibration/rumble with the truck at 38mph and 60mph. I feel it in the steering wheel, gas pedal, and my lower back. It's very noticeable when I'm going at a constant speed. Four times at 38 mph the vibration was shuttering. I can make the vibration/rumble go away by taking my foot off the gas pedal. It almost feels like the bumps in the road but it's not. I dropped it off with my dealer and the service manager took it home that evening. He said he wasn't sure if he felt something or not. He doesn't think it's anything to worry about at this time. I know it never ran like this before. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be??

    Thanks.
  • imacumminsimacummins Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem and working on it at this time. I have a 2003 Cummins...it's out of warranty now. I had this problem while in warranty and it was repaired....came back in less than a year. Waiting for parts at the moment. Basically, from what I see, there are 4 electric motors under the dash. Far passenger side appears to be for recirc/fresh air, next in line towards drivers side is heat/a/c. Next motor behind drink tray appears to be for switching between upper and middle and and may have something to do with the lower air registers. The last motor appears to be a door to allow air to come out the bottom ducts. My diverter gate for mid and upper ducts appears to be stripped inside the air duct. I have ordered parts before attempting to remove the entire dash...hoping to get some type of revelation from seeing the parts. Hope this minimal info helps!
  • lamirandelamirande Member Posts: 3
    just wondering, my 35004x4 quad seems like the front springs are week- everything bottoms out on the smallest dips, also my muffler went out,outlet rusted, tailpipe came loose, $450.00 to replace both? cant find replacement items any cheaper? 61,000 miles, auto 2000 year
  • jkoebeljkoebel Member Posts: 1
    The extra power outlet on the drivers side under the ash tray has stopped working - any ideas? The only thing I can think of is a fuse but cannot find the fuse diagram anywhere as to which fuse it might be.

    All the other power outlets work fine.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • lamirandelamirande Member Posts: 3
    i too had a fuel pump replaced, a lift pump, 59,000 mi still under warnt. no problem
    larry
  • lamirandelamirande Member Posts: 3
    fuel pick-up pump,mine did same
  • manicmechanicmanicmechanic Member Posts: 1
    If the vibration only exists when there is little or no load, that is when you are coasting, just letting off the gas so you are not accelerating or decelerating much the problem could be the u-joints in the drive shaft. This could especially be true if you have driven through water or power-washed the underside of the truck. I would start by checking the u-joints. The slightest play in a u-joint can cause behavior like this. You should not be able to feel ANY physical play. If you can physically feel ANY play by pulling and pushing on the shaft perpendicularly then have the u-joints replaced and the driveshaft checked for trueness (straightness).
  • wfullerwfuller Member Posts: 22
    There's no MIL codes on right now, the only ones that have come on are the ones i've created by either unpluging the idle sensor and trying to crank my truck with out the ignition coil and wire connected (complete accident..), my shop teacher and i did a battery load test not to long ago and i'm pretty sure everything that is connected is tight and clean.. all the ignition stuff is good, my teacher said something about an ignition box or something that delivers spark, it could be crapping out, what do you think? side note : i've noticed that when i go from driving regularly at 2000rpm's and just let off the truck seams to be more prone to stalling then any other driving and it usually only stalls when i'm at a stop or near a stop, when it stalls while driving it usually kicks right back on
  • tmullins1tmullins1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 318,anytime I start it If i dont let my truck warm up for about 5 minutes it misses real bad . When you first start it up it misses. And when change gears and get back into the fuel it jumps and jerks ,real bad .
  • tmullins1tmullins1 Member Posts: 2
  • yara1yara1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Dodge, 50.000 miles and my problem is that my whole instrument cluster doesn't work. No wipers, no turning signals, no brake lights . Nothing. Any ideas ? I have checked the fuses they are all good. Thanks for your help.

    J.M>
  • joebong6joebong6 Member Posts: 1
    hi i have a ram 1500 with 5.7 hemi with 45,000 mile and i just got my oil changed and about 2 hour after that my check engin light came on the rpms stated jumping around and no pick up so i took it to auto zone and they used the obd2 scanner and they got a code that says exhust gas recirulation sensor is to high ok now what does that mean and does it have anything to do with the oil change oh im sorry never got a check engin light before and i also read the it could be an egr problem please can anybody help.
  • bsaofmqtbsaofmqt Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 2004 3500 DIESEL WITH 19,000 MI. ON IT. I JUST NOTICED A THUMBING WHILE COASTING FROM 35MPH DOWN TO ZERO IN 2WD.I REPLACED THE FRONT SHAFT COMPLETE AND NO DIFFERENCE. CAN ONLY HEAR IT INSIDE THE CAB.REMOVED REAR SHAFT AND EVERYTHING SEEMS GOOD.SOUNDS LIKE ITS COMING FROM THE TRANSMISSION TRANSFER CASE.ALSO DOES IT IN NEUTRAL.IT HAS A 4SPEED AUTO. LIGHT BRAKING MAKES NO DIFFERENCE AND GOING IN CIRCLES DOESN'T CHANGE ANYTHING.IT HAS THE ELECTRIC SHIFT 2WD,4WD,L4WD.
  • angus157angus157 Member Posts: 1
    i have 2500 quad cab 4x4, can not get the front rotors off . i took off the nut in front of the rotor. is there something else that i don't see?
  • flyingdragonflyingdragon Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2002 RAM 1500 4WD quad cab with factory 20" alloys. I want to haul a small truck camper (a Lance model 815). It weighs a bit more than the payload authorized by the owners manual. I'd like suggestions from those of you with a similar experience regarding ways to enhance load capacity & handling without compromising safety. Suggestions I have so far - change to steel 17" wheels/tires to load range "D", add rear sway bar, change to HD gas shocks, add rear air bag suspension, change to HD cryo brake rotors/pads. I'm particularly interested in learning how the OEM load limits are established - brake energy limits, axle/bearing structural limits, tire limits, etc. Any help much appreciated.
  • ramman124ramman124 Member Posts: 7
    dodge released a tsb about the rear ring and pinion the vibration ocurs at 45 to 62 mph it has to do with the shims they recomend replacing all the shims and ring and pinion not cheap but good exuse to put in better gears i had the same problem and spent all the money rplacing u joints 8 on mine all were good,then like a dummy i went to work and looked up tsbs on all data bingo there it was all along :shades:
  • ramman124ramman124 Member Posts: 7
    you need to hook up a fuel pressure gage to the fuel rail and crank the engine see what you get then keep the gage hooked up shut the hood so the gage is vicable through the windshield and drive around if it fails to reach a min of 44 psi i mean 43 or lower or 49 and higher your pump is bad you can rent the tool from yoiur local auto store :shades:
  • ramman124ramman124 Member Posts: 7
    what state do you live in, if your close you can come by my shop and we can hookj a smoke machine to the engine and it will show us the leake, it sound like you might have an exaust manifold leake thats why you hear it when it shuts off, buy a mechanics stethoscope and listen to all hoses manifolds and engine manifolds
  • bsaofmqtbsaofmqt Member Posts: 2
    CONTINUING FROM PROBLEM #2910. THE REAR DRIVE SHAFT HAS A FAIR AMOUNT OF UP AND DOWN MOVEMENT COMING OUT OF THE TAIL SHAFT,LIKE A INNER BEARING IS BAD. MAYBE THIS IS THE REASON FOR THE THUMPING AT SLOW SPEEDS (UNDER 45MPH)THERE IS NO VIBRATION IN THE TRUCK WHAT SO EVER THOUGH. CHASSIS SURE JUMPS WHEN YOU TURN ON DRY PAVEMENT IN 4WD.
  • wfullerwfuller Member Posts: 22
    Oh kae, so i'll do the fuel gage thing this week sense i'm on spring break.. i'm in the fort worth texas area, and how much does a stethoscope cost? do you think it's really that big a deal though if i dont find the leak because it's been doing it for over a year and the truck has been fine (until now)..
  • wfullerwfuller Member Posts: 22
    hey Ramman, do you think it could possibly be my IAC valve? i was just reading through my chiltons and it tells me to do these test on the IAC such as place a load and listen to the idle and if it changes to replace it. well when i turn on my A/C and radio it doesnt do much, but when i rev the engine in park to around 2000rpm's and let off the trucks RPM drops sometimes all the way to 0 and the engine stiumbles alot, sometimes shutting itself off. i was just wondering, though i've replaced the IAC about a year ago. I'm still going to try the fuel gage thing and take my truck up to my school autoshop and see if i cant get more help from my less than adequet shop teacher.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    It is possible that the tech changing the oil filter "accidentally" unhooked the EGR sensor that plugs into the cat. This will immediately cause acceleration and performance problems and wil illuminate the check engine light at once.

    Check near where the exhaust leads from the engine and there may be an unhooked sensor dangling.
  • bubbalaniebubbalanie Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 ram 2500 4x4. I have the lamp out light that keeps coming on with the chime. I talked to dodge and they said that a bulb is out i checked the bulbs and they are all working what else could be causing the problem
  • jwhiskeyjwhiskey Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info Ramman124. I passed the info on to my dealership service and they're going to check the tsb's. You wouldn't happen to know the TSB number? The rumble seems to be getting worse at the 40 mph speed. The rumble feels like it's right under my seat. But again if I let off the gas pedal rumble goes away. Thanks for your help.
  • moparblue2moparblue2 Member Posts: 86
    i have a 2002 1500 4 by 4. i had same problem. dealer could not find nothing wrong. i found the problem my self. one time when the lamp out & chime was on i check all my lights right then & found my drivers head light out for about 5 seconds & it came back on. i found plug on back of head light half melted. put on new plug no more lamp out or chimes. i hope this will help that chime will drive you crazy :D
  • viperman1500viperman1500 Member Posts: 12
    had the c.e.l come on took it back to the dealer 3 times they replaced the o2 sensor,vaccum leak detector pump, and the pcm board finaaly they confessed and told me they put the wrong sensor in the first time????? dealer experts. well now i got the vehicle back and it seems i dont have the power that i had before ... i suspect that when i bought the truck the previous owner had a chip installed and when they changed the pcm board it was taken out ???? sound like a possibility ??? any suggestions would be helpful thanx
  • bigmac47bigmac47 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 1500 with 318 in it that seems to 'surge' when first started and later will do same while driving. Happens on small hills and on flat ground. When holding steady speed of 50 to 65, the tac shows the engine speeding up from 1500 to 2000"> and back down again. Will do this repeatedly for miles sometimes and not do it at all on other times. Heat factor makes no difference. No codes showing. Hi mileage truck of 218000+ with service @ 25000 to 30000 miles on the tranny. Not an oil leak anywhere. Solid truck. [Average 250 to 350 mile a daily here in Houston, TX.]
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Can somebody tell me if the '06 Dodge heavy duty trucks still have the NV5600 6 speed transmission (Getrag commercial truck transmission?), or are they using something else now? If this one is this used, is it used in both the HEMI 5.7 and Cummins Diesel versions?
  • bubbalaniebubbalanie Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info talked to dodge and they told me to check the light bar for the tail lights found out the light bar had melted one of the sockets bought knew one and that fixed the problem. I was going crazy with the chime thanks
  • moparblue2moparblue2 Member Posts: 86
    glad i could help. we have to many crazy people out there allready :shades:
  • mpeltzermpeltzer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 2500 Diesel that I have to double foot so it won't stall when I slow and come to a stop. I checked the EGR, and that did not resolve the problem. Ideas?? I want to sell the truck bc we bought an Excursion and need to get rid of it, but afraid to sell it due to the stalling problem.
  • craigh30craigh30 Member Posts: 3
    have a 2002 dodge ram 4.7 my truck is running hot . When I turn on the heater the temperature goes back to normal I wanted to start with my thermostat first but i can't find it on my motor can anyone help me out?
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Lower drivers side of block where the radiator hose connects
  • bonez59lbonez59l Member Posts: 4
    I am Pretty new to this Forum thing... Took me a while to figure out how to post one.
    I am 32 yrs old and just got my first New truck... Never had a new vehicle...I got myself a pretty good one I think... Its a 2500 Dodge Quad/Screaming Yellow,With the High out put 5.9 Liter Cummins and Manual 6 Speed Trans.
    2wd.
    OK Here is my question...I got this truck for a steal... Only paid 28,000 for it at Lithia Dodge In Grapevine,Tx...I wanted a Dually But wasnt in the cards I guess...I dont need the One Ton Hauling or Towing capacity...I just wanted the Dually look and Stability that the extra wheels give when hauling a Fifth wheel or goosekneck.
    I have seen the Dually Conversion Kits and They seem Pretty Simple to Install...
    If I was to get one Would It cause any problems with my differentials? Would My current Axle be able to spin those 2 extra wheels and not destroy anything in the process?

    Any one willing to help me on this would be a saint in my book...I am not however asking if I should do it...I am going to if it will not tear anything up.
    I just want to know what the Rammifacations would be...Fuel Economy...Mechanical damage and so forth.

    I would also like to say...I own a company Here in Bedford TX in which I Relocate R/Vs Autos & Boats...So I will be using this Quite often as it is why I purchased this powerful truck.
    Thank you in advance.
    Scott
  • bonez59lbonez59l Member Posts: 4
    This may sound nuts coming from a Delivery guy and not a mechanic... But I had a 1500 with the Small V-8 in it also...I found the same problem only mine only had 90,000 miles on it..I checked under the hood one day to finnaly have it out with the cause of the issue and found it to be where the Air intake attached to the top of I guess The Throttle Body of some sorts at the top of the engine had some how came loose and was only half way tightened down which was causing Mass amounts of Air to escape thus leaving me very irritated at the problem.
    I just simply tightened the band up after making sure it was secure...I then had no more problems.
    Scott
  • kilsterkilster Member Posts: 55
    Scott, I think you will be okay with your conversion. Depending on the options of the truck, I think I may be the same axle the dually's use only a single wheel version. The Diesel come with 2 axle options, a 10 1/2 American Axle or the 11 1/2 American Axle. Some 2500 have the 10 1/2 but I have seen some with the 11 1/2 axle, All 3500 come with the 11 1/2 axle. The real difference between the two is the 3500 are using helper springs. I have a '05 3500 Single Wheel Quad Cab, and I pull boats all day long with it, I do the same thing you do only part time. The only down side I can come up with, is the dealer will be funny about warranty on a modify vehicle.
    Hope this will be helpful.
  • bonez59lbonez59l Member Posts: 4
    So true about the warranty Issue... But to be honest as long as I can prove that adding the extra wheels didn't hurt or CAUSE any Damage if something were to happen to any other part of the drive train I am in hopes it will still be covered.

    I am not quite sure what my axle is ...I have the slt 2500 with 5.9 High Output 6 speed manual trans 2 wheel drive ...
    Other than the fact that it pulls 7,000 like its nothing at 63 mph with 16.9 MPG.

    I believe you have been very helpful with your information.
    I really appreciate that..
    Any other useful info on better intake set ups and eguahst systems for better mpgs and of course nice sound and look...?
    If So please let me know.

    Thanks again,
    Scott
This discussion has been closed.