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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • vamshybvamshyb Member Posts: 1
    Hi There
    I have a same problem with my New Nissan Altima 2.5 SL. I got the same problem when the mileage around 6000 and "service engine soon" light shown up. I took it to the dealer then they said it is the problem with the throttle chamber and they said they repplaced it.
    I got the same problem when the car is around 8900 milege. Right now the car is with dealer.

    Please suggest what are the steps needed to notify Nissan.

    Thanks
    Vamshi
  • gmctruckgmctruck Member Posts: 186
    "(that's after driving over 100 miles since the light first lit up as i REALLY feel uncomfortable:)"

    There's an easy fix for this problem guys and it's very simple. Don't run your gas tanks down until the light comes on. Did you know that running your tank down to almost empty makes the fuel pumps run hotter? Did you know that by running your fuel tank down low also increases the chances of sucking dirt and debris on the bottom of the fuel tank right up into your fuel system possibly clogging up the filter and fuel injection system?

    Running the gas tank down to "E" on any car is a bad habit that can cause all kinds of fuel system and drivability problems. I usually don't go much below 1/2 tank before filling up.
  • 99altima99altima Member Posts: 6
    Recently I've noticed that my engine, possibly the transmission, is becoming progressively louder each time I start it. After the car warms up the noise lessens but gets louder whenever I step on the gas. The best comparison I can make is that it sounds similar to a golf cart accelerating - kind of a loud whirring noise. It could possibly be gears, which makes me think it may be a transmission problem. My car also has trouble accelerating past 65 mph. It feels like there is a lot of resistance to stepping on the gas. I had the transmission fluid changed recently and I'm wondering if this may be a cause. I've also noticed a drop in gas mileage since this problem started.
    Does anyone have any ideas?
  • trannygirl5409trannygirl5409 Member Posts: 5
    Hello there Max,
    I have the same hesitation in my 2005 Altima, it does it when I need to take off quickly like merging in to fast moving traffic. Also my stereo has the worst reception I have ever had in a vehicle. And I am currently having a problem with starting the car, I drive it around for an hour or so, then it sits for an hour or two and sometimes, but not all of the time, it cranks for a while when I try to start it, kind of sputtering a little while cranking. I have had my car to nissan dealer 4 times for problems and not once were they able to "duplicate my complaint" which translates to me, ignore it till the warranty is no longer valid. I dont think I will ever buy another nissan car, and this is my 2nd one. Any one else have same problems with their altima's?
  • trannygirl5409trannygirl5409 Member Posts: 5
    You might want to check the exhaust, see if it is restricted. A restricted exhaust will make the car have less power like you describe. Just a thought.
  • jdberkovjdberkov Member Posts: 4
    It's nice to hear that someone else is experiencing the same problem. My car is at the dealership right now for the second time. They couldn't find anything wrong with it the first time, but have promised to figure out the cause.

    I didn't have a service engine light come on though. I'll mention the throttle chamber to my dealer.

    If they can't find the problem, I will call, email, and write to the Nissan North American Headquarters.
  • wfrenchwfrench Member Posts: 1
    I called Nissan (1-800-NISSAN1) about this, and after spending forever on the phone with them, they finally told me the answer: it is a 20 gallon tank, but the guage is calibrated to show EMPTY when there are about 3.5 gallons left. This is an "emergency" feature, so that you can still drive further if you need to. But they also said it was bad for the engine to do that. They could not tell me how.

    This is VERY annoying to me, and I told them that. Basically, the guage is giving the driver innacurate information BY DESIGN, in order to protect him from accidentally running out of gas. I guess I'm too stupid to be told the truth because I might hurt myself and/or my car.

    It also annoyed me that I had to spend half an hour on the phone to figure all this out, but that's another story.
  • mrk94mrk94 Member Posts: 3
    Addie,

    Can't really help. . . just let you know I have the same problem. My '94 GXE has 106,000 miles on it, and the "rattle" has been with me for maybe the last 6 months. I've had more than one mechanic check the front end . . . Nothing. Still have the original struts (!), and I'm told they're o.k.! Don't know what to think, either!!!!! :confuse: MRK94
  • brenttrumblebrenttrumble Member Posts: 1
    I drove it home the other night and went out to start it the next day and nothing. It was running fine. It has spark and gas- any ideas? How can I test if it is the distributor?
  • semasema Member Posts: 1
    Nobody found the source, that's sad... I got the same problem twice already. Additionally to the crazy behavior of the instrument panel the car doesn't want to drive during this time as if the ignition disappeared.
  • sha2sha2 Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 Altima 2.5 is leaking water! and lots of it! It seems to be coming form the front end leaving inches of water on the driver side floor to the back passenger seat floor. I thought that was the only thing wet in my car until today. The back passenger seat floor was soaked also. Nissan said the water was leaking in from the speaker and that they fixed it. But, the door panel was not wet, the speaker works and it is not only the left side of the vehicle that is soaked.
    Any ideas, comments or same issue??
  • nortonnfriendsnortonnfriends Member Posts: 9
    Not sure what year your talking about but sometimes the trans filter geta a little cloged so any large amount of liquid slashing can effect the vacuum of the system.
  • nortonnfriendsnortonnfriends Member Posts: 9
    Mine did the same. 93.. distributer housing there on the top of the engine was my prob. Engine sounds like it wants to fire but just wont? That is that dist. there is a sensor in there that kills the engine, kinda like a kill switch. Engine has everything it needs to start and does, that sensor pushes the kill switch on ya the whole time.
  • nortonnfriendsnortonnfriends Member Posts: 9
    ball joint and or tie rod end. Does the wheel jerk when you feel it? If so the tie rod end is not holding and releasing causing the pop. if not there is a ball joint on the bottom of the spindel that does the same thing. Should be tignt but movable.
  • nortonnfriendsnortonnfriends Member Posts: 9
    There is a small radiator looking unit under the dash which a fan blows through to create the cool air. The fittings could be loose and or the condensor (the lil radiator thing) could be frosting up and melting in the inside. Normal for the evaporator to do such hense the small water dripping during operation. Not normal for the condensor to be leaking.
  • nortonnfriendsnortonnfriends Member Posts: 9
    Change the plugs and wires first. That is a huge issue with thease nissans. Next The distrubutor cap is also the timimg/idol adjustor. May be set too low./ Best bet is to loosen to screws on distributor and turn it slightly twards the inside of the car. (clockwise) SLIGHTLY. this will rase the idol and timing(kinda) up a bit. Too high and youy fuel econemy is now crap kuz ot the high idol.
  • sha2sha2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks but I am talking major water. About 4-5 inches! Really fills up after a rain storm but nothing else in the car is wet but the floors....????
  • gesegese Member Posts: 1
    Ever since I brought my car in to get my driver side window switches replaced, I have had problems with idling in drive and somewhat in neutral. Under driving conditions, everything seems fine. Another mechanic said that it was a weak injector (4th cylinder) and or other problems (he want $100 to do a diagnostic but I was skeptical, after all the car was just fine a few days ago!!). One thing I noticed, is that the small flipper that was located in the opening of my gas tank opening was no longer there (??). This is a small piece of metal that I used to push in with the gas nozzle when filling up. It has disappeared. Can someone help me? Why is my car idling very roughly at stop signs but then fine when I am moving and does this little flipper thing matter?
  • empiempi Member Posts: 6
    Gee everyone, I was thinking of buying one but after reading the posts, I am wondering. I just sold a 2004 VW Beetle Turbo GLS Conmvertible with 7600 miles on it because it got horrible gas mileage and it seems that VWs have a lot of problmes too but to read all these problems about an Altima, I am wondering is there any car out there that does not have problems.

    Any other suggestions for a car in the price and class of n Altima I should be looking at. I want a car that gets decent gas mileage. I do mostly city driving so I am not expecting huge numbers - just reasonble. MY VW convertible was averaging 14 pg. Now that is ridiculous

    empi
  • aingeainge Member Posts: 4
    I finally got my Altima cured of the dying problem mentioned above. The check engine light finally came on and stayed on, and it was the Mass Airflow Sensor. Nissan replaced it, and the problem has disappeared. I'm glad it got fixed, but it frustrates me to no end that all these "Master Technicians" aren't able to diagnose a symptom without a computer code. Why can't you just describe a problem to them anymore and let them test a couple of things? Very irritating, but at least it got fixed.
  • empiempi Member Posts: 6
    Hi Swanny.

    Iam thinking of buying a 2.5 SL and after reading all of these problems, I am having second thoughts. I am really discouraged with cars in general. I just sold my 2004 VW New Beetle Convertible Tubo GLS withb7600 miles on it because it gets horrible gas mileage. Averaging 14 to 16 mpg all city driving. I also read about a lot of problems with the Beetles too. Does anyone make a decent car anymore.

    I thought the Japanese made such reliable cars. Now I am wondering.

    I used to drive Mercedes cars, but I am now looking for something less showy and more economical as I approach retirement. What kind of gas mileage do you get with the 3.5 (I presume it is a 6 cyl). I am looking at the 4 cyls as I don't need the extra power and friends who have the 2.5 absolutely love it and have had nothing but good look.

    Looking forward to hearing from you or anyone with any suggestions.
  • corey24corey24 Member Posts: 2
    The car you might want to look at is a Honda Accord.
  • nissan_usernissan_user Member Posts: 1
    Is there any way to return the car based on this manufacturing defect? I have a 60 miles commute and I have been burning more gas due to the fact that the A/C is always on when I switch on inside air circulation button on or defrost on and then turn it off.
    It sucks !
  • karpokarpo Member Posts: 1
    I am the owner of a 2000 Nissan Altima GXE. It has 56,000 miles on it. I had a tune up 3 weeks ago. Last Wednesday, while stuck in traffic for an hour, I was moving but mostly stop and go. I noticed that after 35 minutes the odometer, speedometer, and temp gauge all went. The odometer went blank on the digital screen, the mph gauge went to zero, the rpm gauge went flat, and my temp gauge was saying my engine was cold when I knew that moments before all gauges were reading normal. After about 10 to 15 minutes, the car corrected itself and all gauges went back to normal. This happened again on Friday night and a third time this evening. If i turn off the car and turn it back on the problem corrects itself. I should also mention that the car runs just fine and everything seems normal except for the weird gauge thing. Could this be electrical? Maybe a short or fuse? Suggestions?
  • socalnissansocalnissan Member Posts: 1
    I just got a 2006 and the radio static is terrible. HELP would be greatly appreciated. The dealership doesn't "hear" any problems compared to the other cars on the lot blah , blah blah
  • gatorediegatoredie Member Posts: 2
    Hi all. Just wondered if anyone else had encountered this. My boyfriend has a 2003 Nissan Altima with under 60,000 miles on it. Recently, it stopped going in reverse. Everything else about the car worked fine. We took it to a few shops who sort of shrugged and sent us off to the dealer. The dealer now says the car needs a new transmission! It's a 2-year-old car with less than 60,000 miles on it, which should be nothing for Nissan. Any chance the problem could be something else (and something cheaper to fix!)? The warranty on the car (he bought it used) has ended, but I feel like Nissan ought to step up and help pay for something like this. They're supposed to be so reliable, but this experience is leaving a bad taste in our mouths. :sick:
  • lsughostlsughost Member Posts: 18
    SSPARTI,
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 Altima. Have you found a repair for it yet? If so, can you please let me know what it was.

    Thank you.
  • mavurikmavurik Member Posts: 1
    The warranty for powertrain is 60month 60k miles.

    I am having same problem...but when i took it to the dealer they could not replicate it.
  • mrtudemrtude Member Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem with my 1996. My daughter was driving it the other day and it started to sputter, then died. Thought it was out of gas, put some in, wouldn't start. Thought tune-up, so replaced plugs, distributor cap, rotar, nothing. It almost sounds, sometimes, like it wants to start, but doesn't. ideas????
  • mrtudemrtude Member Posts: 3
    How did you fix it? New sensor? Where did you get it?
  • gatorediegatoredie Member Posts: 2
    So when you took it to the dealer, it went in reverse for them but it won't for you? That happened the first time we dropped the Altima off at the mechanic -- they said it was fine. And it worked fine for a few more days, but then it stopped going in reverse again. It revs like it's in neutral, but won't move. So we dropped it off at the dealer over the weekend. They confirmed it wouldn't go in reverse but wanted to charge $3,300 for a new transmission. The warranty has ended because it was used when my boyfriend bought it. Ironically, had he bought it new, Nissan would have to replace the transmission because it'd be under warranty. So now, we're just sort of in disbelief that a Nissan's transmission would need to be replaced after less than 60,000 miles!
  • ewe2ewe2 Member Posts: 20
    I've complained about the same thing. Seems Nissan did this because this car has a tendency to fog the windows and they were receiving complaints about the fogging. I guess it was too hard for people to push the ac button when needed themselves.

    I'm also finding out that the fogging problem might be due to the cabin filter. So I am going to take the filter out and see of the fogging problem disappears.

    Honda will be a replacement for this piece of crap.

    Nissan replaced the Stanza with the Altima and it's never been as good. It might be faster but that is all it has got going for it.

    D
  • temeculatemecula Member Posts: 4
    That's funny, I have a 2002 3.5 with just about the same amount of miles. Yes I'm having the same oil problem. A mechanic said the same thing...no leak. He did mention that it could be the piston rings; I'm not a mechanic but I know that's an expensive fix. Between oil changes I'm accustom to dropping a quart of fresh oil into the engine, seems to work. The Fall weather seems to help. Question: is your Altima making "marble-like" noises around 2500 RPM? Could it be that the chain belt needs tightening?
    Thanks.
  • 99altima99altima Member Posts: 6
    Just as an update: it turned out to be a bad drive shaft pulley. It was not allowing the serpentine belt, and the various other belts, to move as they should. As a result the car wasn't shifting out of 1st or second gear so thats why i had the problem accelerating and the poor gas mileage. It cost about $150.00 to repair - not bad.
  • terryroyboyterryroyboy Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem. Misfire on 4 code. Changed injector,distcap,spark plug wires,checked compression. Finally looked to see if the coil was jumping spark. Took two screws off inside stater cover. Found tempered disk had been bent and lost a couple little lines in the sensor spokes I guess you call them. Any way I went to the auto salvage yesterday and bought a distributor. Put it in last night and it smoothed out and the light went out after about half a mile. So far so good!!
  • mrk94mrk94 Member Posts: 3
    My '94 started making a clicking noise behind the dash a few months ago whenever I used the AC or just ventilation, but I could play with the selection buttons and in time would usually find a way to stop the noise. Somewhere along the way the fan's infamous 1st speed resistor went out, leaving me speeds 2,3, and 4...I don't recall if it was before or after the noise appeared. Now, the clicking is there whenever I have any button other than Bi-Level selected...EVEN WITHOUT THE FAN BEING TURNED ON! Recirc. doesn't make any difference. The output is still directed according to the button selected, so I'm suspecting something at the air mix door since Bi-Level keeps it at sort of a "middle" position. Anyone ever diagnosed this? A worn part that keeps ratcheting when anything other than Bi-Level is on? Probably have to take half the dash apart!!! Thanks for any help!!!
  • myusername1myusername1 Member Posts: 2
    I have had varied problems with my 2005 SE 3.5 (auto) ever since I bought it in July. The main problem I have is hearing a low rumble and vibration when traveling at certain speeds. When cruising at a constant speed of about 32, 40, and 50-something is when it happens the most. I get this vibration that can be felt through the gas pedal, steering wheel, etc... but is barely audible. It is a very low pitched rumble. It doesn't happen at all speeds, in fact only at very specific ones. I know this is not normal... the one I test drove didn't do this at all.

    It also seems to shift a hard from 1 - 2 and 2 - 3 when under light - moderate acceleration. Therefore, I have been thinking this is all transmission related... but the dealership refuses to acknowledge any of this is a problem.

    Any ideas, suggestions or similar experiences with an '05 out there????
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    I have no experience with the Altima, but from general experience I believe it's safe to say without fear of contradiction that when the selling dealer refuses to acknowledge an owner complaint, it's either time to request the service manager take a demo ride with you, try a different dealership's service department, or contact the manufacturer and request a zone rep meet to take a test drive with you. If he agrees with your complaint, then what HE says to the service manager, GOES. Unfortunately, not all new car dealerships take their responsibilities regarding warranty work as seriously as they should.* Fortunately, owners usually have choice within reasonable driving distance.

    *There was a time when auto manufacturers paid the dealership's regionally-adjusted normal shop hourly labor rate without question. The labor hourly rate would then be multiplied by the flat rate manual's listed repair time in hours for the final warranty claim compensation to be paid by the manufacturer for a warrantable repair. According to an article in "Consumer Reports" several years ago, that's no longer always true. Some manufacturers have scaled back to an arbitrary national hourly. In respsonse, some dealers who feel they're adversely affected by the manufacturer's attempts to control warranty costs (and who have a thriving service department adding to the dealership's bottom line with out of warranty repairs for which the dealer can and does charge full bore to the owners) have become a bit stingy about the work they'll accept on warranty repairs by solemnly claiming they can't duplicate or hear the problem the customer complains about. After all, they reason, why should they accept a pittance and tie up a service bay when there's some guy with cash or CC on hand who'll pay their regular shop rates just to be on the road again. Works out to, "Heads we win, tales you lose." for people needing warranty work since they can count on many warranted owners not pressing ahead to the next level.
  • edvkedvk Member Posts: 8
    All I can say is Welcome to the club, and good luck getting them to fix it.

    I have had the same problems, but they appear to going away (or I am just getting use to it).

    There was a bulletin posted that the heat shield on the catalytic converted may come loose, causing vibration during acceleration. Check out nissanhelp.com, under the 2005 Altima's

    I am looking forward to switching to winter tires, because I thing the Turanza's are a big part of the problem.

    Keep us posted if you resolve anything.
  • yelenikyelenik Member Posts: 4
    I have seen air bag light reset procedures for various years of the Altima where you turn ignition on and press the drivers door switch at least 5 times in 7 seconds. Is this procedure applicable to a 1999 year model of the Altima?
  • terryroyboyterryroyboy Member Posts: 2
    I'm so sorry! The light came back on and is still misfiring on 4. I would love to know what to do next!

    Sorry again!
  • doyindoyin Member Posts: 22
    You've most likely got an intake gasket leak.
  • doyindoyin Member Posts: 22
    Ive got a 97 altima which throws this code.It means the ECM and TCU arent communicating.No driveability problems because the TCU and ECM are directing their respective sensors,just not interacting with each other.Checked the connecting wire from ecm to tcu,no breaks but I think there's a connector in between which I havent been able to find.Anybody have any similar issue?
  • edvkedvk Member Posts: 8
    The temperature is -9 Celsius this morning. When I turned on the vent control to defrost on my 2005 3.5 SE, the A/C light turns on. Does this happen to others?

    Also, at the end of my trip, I was sitting in the car with it on, and notice the idle is not smooth, with intermittent stutters. Does this happen to others?

    Is there a fix for this? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    :confuse:
  • doyindoyin Member Posts: 22
    A/C light coming up is normal.

    Dont know about the idling.
  • trannygirl5409trannygirl5409 Member Posts: 5
    I also have terrible radio reception in my 2005 Altima! That along with wind noise inside car with windows up and, the starting problem when the car has been ran for an hour then sits for an hour, it cranks for a while then starts. My Altima has a whole 15,000. miles on it. I have taken my car to nissan dealer 4 times now, and Finally I think they are going to fix my car, they are also renting me a car while it is being done. I guess it pays to threaten to off load the car and buy a Honda!!
  • jlhoff1jlhoff1 Member Posts: 1
    My 02 altima has 68k miles and for the last 10k it's been burning oil. At first they said it was a fluke, then since I had no leak they said it could only be the pcv valve which was serviced. Now the dealer has called me to say that I need a new engine for a mere $5600 because it turns out it is a blown head gasket and oil and coolant have leaked into the engine.

    Because my google search easily yielded a few people with the same problem, I think there may be serious problems with the 02s. Another symptom I had was that my heat wasn't working; turns out that was leaking into my engine also. I have seen a few people post about this problem too.

    I have contacted nissan consumer affairs because this car is a baby by nissan standards and SHOULD NOT NEED A NEW ENGINE. Have you explored your problem any further?
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Very sad. It'll be interesting to hear how Nissan Corporate responds since the company is now owned by Renault - which, itself, is partially French government owned. (It's always bad when cousins marry or a government gets involved in private enterprise in peace time...)
  • terry21terry21 Member Posts: 2
    considering buying my 1st Nissan, 1998 Altima.

    Tranny was recently replaced (automatic with push button over drive).
    The new tranny doesn't have OD (or is not hooked up correctly).
    1. What transmission would have been compatible that did not have over drive?
    2. What can I look for to see if it does have OD but isn't hooked up correctly?
    I saw no cables on the transmission so I'm assuming it's electronic, but how can I validate?
    Also, car has a VERY HARD shift 1-2 and 2-D, are these two issues related in anyway?

    Thanks in advance.
  • hugrlps101hugrlps101 Member Posts: 2
    My Altima has 93K miles. However, ever since it had 12772 miles right after an oil change on June 3 2002, it started missing. Or rather jerking. I took it in and they told me they could not duplicate it. They did this several times. Finally they told me to put 91 or higher octane gas in the car. This helped but the problem never went away. And should I use regular gas the problem would definitely resurface even stronger. Now the engine light is one and it is doing it even worst. And, it is now gossling gas. Where before it didn't. I have had to go to Nissan Consumer Affairs also. It is documented that my car has had this problem from back then. I am waiting to hear from Nissan Consunmer Affairs. Or can someone suggest what action I can further take. I have to agree that there are serious problems with the 02s. The question is how can we get Nissan to accept responsibility for these problems. Several other poeple have written about the jerking problem which at a given point causes the engine light to come on. We all need some help.
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