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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jmaxwell3333jmaxwell3333 Member Posts: 14
    Only 2.5 are effected. To check your VIN# go to nissanusa.com, there is a link for recalls etc, check your VIN, but as with any new car, don't push the car for at least the first couple hundred miles, and check fluidlevels before recommended services to identify problems before Nissan discovers them when it is too late. Forget the salesmen, go straight to the Service Manager, he knows the cars, the salesman knows how to sell and 'calm rough water'. The recall info is all over the web.
  • amarkutamarkut Member Posts: 5
    bigboi,

    I'd say a big YES you should be worried IF you had one of the defective cars due to the defective "part" can cause a fire. But you should be 99.9% a o.k. My dealership here in Indy, which is VERY reputable, said they were told by Nissan Corp. to pull ALL the cars that same evening it was announced off the lots-they could not sell them. (this is back in early June)

    As for the serial #, bascially it is to track when the car was actually built. I appologize for the lack of memory, but I believe it affected 06 models manufactured from Dec.05-I think April 06 (?).

    You might want to do some research on the sepcific maufactured time frame on the internet-but I could bet your car is fine.
  • amarkutamarkut Member Posts: 5
    Yes, I'm referring to the 2.5-not sure what bigboi purchased; however. Again, I feel he has nothing to worry about. Also, jmaxwell is correct-it's the VIN#. Not sure why I said serial number-sorry about that.
  • bigboi1881bigboi1881 Member Posts: 2
    I checked Nissan's site and they say it affects VIN #s
    1N4*L11D*6N366397 - 369129. My VIN# starts with 41****. I am supposed to pick up the car later today but my parents told me that I should call the dealer and cancel my car since it states in the article that they should stop selling ALL Altimas. I just dont want to receive a recall letter in the mail later and have problems.

    What do you suggest?
  • sheri_gosheri_go Member Posts: 1
    My rear seatbelts periodically get stuck and can not be used. I have one that has been stuck for 4 months and one that has been stuck for 2 months. My 3rd back seat belt got stuck a couple of days ago but i was able to dis-lodge it. I have 2 children who have to sit back there and right now they are both sitting in the same seat. Has anyone had this problem before or have any idea what i can do about it? Please help me out as my children are riding unsafely in my car. Thanx
  • eddieeeddiee Member Posts: 25
    We just had the front rotors replaced after 20,000 miles on our 2005 Altima. There was bad front end shimmy when the brakes were applied. Luckily the dealer replaced them under warranty. There must have been little pad wear since they didn't replace the pads. The service manager said that this is not the first instance of early rotor warping. She said the calipers were fine. We also had 2 instances where we left the car parked for a week+ when going on vacation and the pads seized to the rotors. The car would not move. I had to apply a lot of gas (not fun backing out of a garage) and eventually the brakes freed with a loud bang. I know it's not unusual for light rust to appear when the car is parked for a while (which will burn off soon with no damage) but I have never had the pads seize before with any vehicle.

    Have others encountered premature rotor warping or pads seizing? I have heard that OEM rotors are typically crap so I will probably replace these with non-Nissan parts when these rotors go. Our previous 96 Camry went 85,000 miles before replacing the front pads and the rotors were still good (just needed turning). I didn't replace the rotors to save a few bucks because we were selling it.
  • grumpfishgrumpfish Member Posts: 19
    Because your car "isn't" one of the VIN#'s afffected, don't think you're in the clear. Mine isn't, and it's eating more oil than what is conceived to be normal. This shocked me when I checked the oil with 800 more miles before the next scheduled oil change (it was bone dry) and the service manager who checked it when I took it in - it was again lower (but not empty) than it should've been. I now have to follow the procedure of driving it for 700 miles and take it in three times to monitor oil consumption. So keep tabs on your car

    :lemon:
  • jeanrvictorjeanrvictor Member Posts: 11
    If you’re having second thoughts about the deal then you should back out of it. The idea of possibly having to replace an engine on a brand new car with a used or refurbished one is just plain ridiculous. If I were in your shoes I wouldn’t think twice about canceling now than regretting it latter.

    JV
  • bperkbperk Member Posts: 38
    All, Firstly lets all be aware that Nissan has carefully crafted this as a "TSB" and NOT a recall. Here is the link to the "TSB" http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/Bulletins/Nissan/2006/NTB06-045.htm

    If it were a recall there would be a line out the door because they would be fessing up to a truly defective component and would have to replace 85K+ engines.

    Secondly, read the TSB very carefully. If you go in to the svc dept with just a LOW level oil range they will simply check for noise, top it off with oil, and send you on your way. My advise, dont go in until the oil does not reach the dip stick, monitor it carefully and then as soon as you see this level head to the dealer becasue now according to the TSB you can start the process of checking every 700 miles and then get the new engine. Again read this TSB very carefully..It took me a few reads to finally understand the loop hole they crafted. My car is burning oil, its on the LOW indicator after 2200 miles on the dipstick but Im wtg until it does not register at all otherwise they will say it does not qualify (Nissan,not the dealer because Nissan has to authorize the engine replacement). Good luck all.
  • altimaedaltimaed Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: For the past 6 months I have been fighting with this. I had both Cam & Crank Sensors replace at the same time 4 months ago since it was a recall. Well guess what, it still is doing the same thing, loss of power, stalling and check Engine Light flashing. Has anyone experienced the same problem as me. Everytime I take the car to a Nissan Dealer they tell me there are no error codes in the comupter and they can't duplicate the problem. Any advice is helpful at this point!
  • bperkbperk Member Posts: 38
    I eventulally spoke to the General Manager of the dealership and informed him of the "Offer" his finance manager made to me. His reply was that there must have been some misunderstanding on the matter. I assured him that there was no "Misunderstanding", I know what I heard and I believe I know what he was trying to do. I even looked this guy dead in the the eye and said "What, you want me to void mt 3yr36k warranty for another $1,200 off the vechile". Anyway, I also sent a duplicate letter to Nissan Consumer Affairs, lot of good that will do. But either way, Im determined to uncover some shify goings on with this guy if I can. Its a shame because I really like the service department.
  • jmaxwell3333jmaxwell3333 Member Posts: 14
    Call Nissan North America direct, give them your VIN# and get your answer from them directly, do not trust your Sales person to have the correct answer for you, that's not his job...I'd call them, ask them what they want you to do, see if the answer suits you and if not, then take other action...other than that, there are a lot of Altima 2.5's that weren't affected (those that were built after May 2006) yours may be one of those and you have no probs, but check with Nissan direct...
  • jpgoldmanjpgoldman Member Posts: 1
    I had a problem where my car would stall while I was driving, which was most inconvenient. I paid $193 to replace the crankshaft position sensor in March. I've had no problems since, but if that was supposed to be a recall, I will be most displeased.
  • ruby02ruby02 Member Posts: 2
    There was in fact a recall on both those parts. Take the recall notice and go back to the dealer. You should be reimbursed.

    LJ :)
  • wwjcdo55wwjcdo55 Member Posts: 10
    It seems i am finally getting somewhere toward getting my Altima repaired. I took it to dealer today for 1st time concerning oil issue. Service manager treated me very well. He said bring it back two more times for oil issue. On 3rd time he would order a new engine (not rebuilt) He seemed to be a very trusting man ! A former law enforcement officer and a straight forward guy. He told me a way to check engine to verify serial number for peace of mind ! My wife's car and she about flipped when she found out i had already talked with an attorney. Now we both feel better about the whole issue.
  • altimaedaltimaed Member Posts: 2
    Alright! I just got my car back from my Nissan Dealership for the 3rd time. Once again they could not find any error codes stored in the computer and could not duplicate the problem which is Engine light flashes on and off, loss of power, at idle car seems like it is going to stall. Still Nissan could not find any errors in the computer they will not fix anything on my car. I hate wasting my time at the dealership anymore when I KNOW something is wrong but they seem to never be able to figure it out. Is there anyone here that has had or is having the same problem I am experiencing. I am affraid from some of the stories I have read that my car will shut down on the interstate going 65. Help please!
  • gearsnbeersgearsnbeers Member Posts: 1
    In the same boat and need some answers or opinions what would be the best to do. Proceed in getting the car, even though the problems affected only certain cars or scrap the whole idea. Really like the 06 altima se-r. Don't want a bunch of problems in the end.
  • wwjcdo55wwjcdo55 Member Posts: 10
    All i can say is that my dealer sent a number of Altima's back . Due to the problems with the 2.5 litre engine. The problem being heavy oil consumption with certain engines manufactored 1st quarter of this year. Naturally i purchased one of those cars in late May. 10 days later got a letter from Nissan stateing how for me to react to this problem. They told me to check oil every 700 miles. Add what oil to fill back to full. Finally i took car back to dealer and now i am letting him handle the total situation. Said i had 2 more times to bring back then he would order a new engine and call when it came in for him to swap out.He did state he would give me a loaner until the engine swap was made. He assured me it would be a new engine not a rebuilt. He stated i would be able to tell from serial number stamped on block. But from the number of cars sent back from around the country i think i possibly could still receive a engine from another car that was took out and rebuilt. To be put back in my new Nissan. Please do not get me wrong my wife and I love the car. Just worried about the outcome. But Nissan has warrented the engine for 100,000 miles. Now i have heard of many past the 200,000 mark. Will my Altima make it ? That remains to be seen. So i would get the vin number off the car and do some checking with Nissan myself. I personally dont trust the sales department of the dealership i purchased mind at. It's the 2.5 Altima S model.
  • jmaxwell3333jmaxwell3333 Member Posts: 14
    I would trust the fact that this prob only affects the 2.5...I'd love the 3.5 se-r ...I had a 2.5 with a prob, I fought it with the Better Business Bureau, and got a new engine without having to play the outrageous game of checking my oil every 700 miles..what an insult...If anything, I'd tell anyone buying a new car or car for that matter, read this from msnbc: The National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) manages and tracks all U.S. recalls. It maintains an extensive, detailed database of all problems, which consumers can use to find out if a vehicle they own or are considering buying has a recall associated with it.
  • txbeatztxbeatz Member Posts: 3
    My 1994 altima a/c only blows on setting #4. 1,2 and 3 dont blow anything at all. someone told me it could be just the knob but i doubt that. another person told me there is a common problem with a peice that is in between the knob and the fan.

    anyone have any ideas? im in texas and its hot and dont want to run #4 all the time lol
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    It sounds like the three nichrome coils used as voltage limiting resistors to control the lower fan speeds have fused open. (Time, corrosion, and one current surge too many at fan startup, and the coil quietly enters retirement...) The reason you still have high speed is that on that setting the fan motor receives full battery voltage. The nichrome wire coils are located in the airflow of the fan - probably in the heater core/evaporator casement nestled in the dash. Depending on placement, they may be tricky to access for replacement. The dealer or any independent auto A/C shop should be able to tackle the job if you'd rather not personally hassle with it (especially in close quarters under the gentle Texas sun...). My bet is that an independent auto A/C shop will be the less expensive choice. ;)
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    My 94 had same prolem. Was a resistor located behind a panel under dash along one of the sides of car. Not sure exactly where, since it was ten years ago. I can research if you can't locate. Dealer fixed for 80 bucks.
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    I have a 98 Altima and encountered the same problem. It was the heater fan resistor. On my model it's located beneath the glove box and part of it fits into the air way. You'll see a wire connector that connect to it. The resistor goes into the airway. It's held in place with two screws. The part cost me $50 CAD$ and took me two minutes to install. You can find the part on ebay if you want to pay less. I believe that your model year will run you about $20-30 US for the part.
  • bryankelleybryankelley Member Posts: 2
    Can I get teh part number fo rthe seal and how do I get to the seal to change it? I went to the dealer and they basically told me good luck
  • bryankelleybryankelley Member Posts: 2
    Did you get that part number for the oil seal on teh engine side of the distributor fo rthe Altima? If so could you post it?
  • txbeatztxbeatz Member Posts: 3
    Thanks to all who replied !! The answers were detailed and very helpful! Hopefully i can take this information to the shop without worrying about them screwing me over with stuff i dont need! I Appreciate all of your help! :D
  • meg1719meg1719 Member Posts: 1
    I've had my 98 Altima now for the past 2 years, never had any real problems with it till now. i'm at my witts end!!
    about a month ago this problems started with my car in which the following symptoms are present:
    -Rough, Shaking engine movement (the whole car seems to be shaking with it)
    -White, gas smelling exhaust that turns black if i drive too long with the problem
    -Occasionally dies, but only when I've driven with these symptoms and break at a light or signal (not good places to break down!!)
    -Loss of accelleration at times
    -When it does break down, I can't get it to even start again for atleast a couple of hours
    -Sputtering sound coming from the engine

    I've had two mechanics, both highly recommended and one exclussively a Nissan mechanic, try to gifure this out, and neither of them have been able to find anything wrong. The problem comes and goes, sometimes running great, sometimes with the above symptoms. HELP ME!!!
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "...White, gas smelling exhaust..."

    That's water, my friend, and the only avenue of entry for water into a working cylinder is past a blown head gasket (and in some engine designs, a defective intake manifold gasket) allowing coolant to enter. Most of the coolant that enters a cylinder is immediately vaporized by engine heat and compression effects and blown out the tail pipe where it can condense to the white vapor you see. However, some of the vaporized coolant in the cylinder(s) is squeezed past the piston rings of the affected cylinder(s) and deposited into your engine's motor oil. Coolant contains ethylene glycol as the key antifreeze ingredient. Ethylene glycol is extremely corrosive to engine bearing metals. You have a very serious problem and if you want to save your engine, you need to have this problem dealt with very soon. And, yes, it'll be expensive.
  • ddlong131ddlong131 Member Posts: 2
    98 Altima's timing was found to be about 20 degrees past spec. Distributor adjustment allowed only about 15 degrees correction. Conclusion was that one of the timing chains jumped a tooth. Made the adjustment and ran the car less than 100 miles. Performance was just OK, then one day car would not start at all. Conclusion is that the chain jumped another tooth.
    My question is: Does anyone know how many degrees past spec can the engine survive before risking valve-piston interference? Also, is valve-piston interference always a LOUD event, or could it also have happened silently.
    Bottom line is: What are the odds that valve-piston-head damage has occurred?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    A piston striking a fully opened valve will defintely be noticeable. One or both components will break. If the engine continues to operate (VERY doubtful), there'll be considerable vibration. A "kiss" of a partially opened valve by the rising piston might not be audible, though some damage will probably occur (chipped valve face, bent valve stem, and/or cracked piston). Surprisingly, even in some known "interference" engines (those in which mechanical damage can occur in the event of timing belt/chain breakage) it is possible that the position of the partially open valves will just happen to be sufficiently close to fully closed that no damage is sustained since the pistons are formed with shallow depressions coinciding with valve location. That very thing happened to a friend of mine's '90 Honda Accord on his way to work. He only had 54,000 miles on the original timing belt. (These things can let go early...) When the local Honda dealership got into the engine to replace the belt, the service manager called my friend and told him he hit the lottery - a compression check showed full compression on all four cylinders, so his engine wasn't broken.
  • akalaakala Member Posts: 1
    Hello I am new here and need some help.
    I have 94 altima which was running fine till yesterday. but suddenly when i started it the engine started shaking. the RPM increased properly. it idles ok at just below 1000. the shake continues if i put it in gear(automatic). I checked the oil levels they look ok. but i can clearly see the engine shake if i open the hood.
    i'll greatly appreciate any help

    thanks
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Your description of the car's problem could be indicative of a dozen or more maladies - some serious, some minor. Your best bet would be to have your customary service shop diagnose what's wrong rather than begin throwing new parts at the problem in the hope of getting lucky. On the chance the car might quit, totally, in traffic, you might want to consider having the car towed to your shop. (Your observation that the lube oil is at the proper level is one VERY good sign. It continues to amaze and confound me beyond all reason by the number of drivers who act as if it's somehow beneath their dignity to be diligent about routinely checking their engine's oil level.)
  • brandy06brandy06 Member Posts: 7
    For all those who don't know I just got rid of my altima yesterday due to the oil problem then it left me set one morning and wouldn't start. I then got pissed, took the car to the dealership missed a days of work, got my new car, they paid off my old car gave me 2000.00 and I put that down on another one. So don't let them screw you, they tried me and didn't work at all. I told them I was going to drive that car right through the dealership window if they didn't do something. My Altima leaked or burned oil like crazy, oh sucked gas down then normal. Oh the recall is not due to piston rings, it is due to Nissan trying to save $$ going to another manufacture for gaskets, and they made them a millimeter smaller then what was told they did put on the car which cause so much problems. So don't let them tell you something different. :mad:
  • jft26jft26 Member Posts: 35
    Did you have to go through the crap of bringing it to the dealer service dept every 700 miles to get it on record first? My 06 Altima is using alot of oil too and I am attempting to discuss with the dealershp management. The car is 4 months old with 3700 miles on it. Thanks for any info. :-)
  • wwjcdo55wwjcdo55 Member Posts: 10
    Brandy, I really think the way you get treated concerning this oil consumption problem is the dealership. I too own a 06 Altima-S with the 2.5 liter problem child engine. Purchased around 5 27 06 - 10 days later got that sad letter from Nissan. Checked my vin. and verified that it was one of those with the oil issue. Since then i was told at 2,400 miles (service manager checked out). The very nice gentleman ordered me a motor and told me he should have it in next week and installed by 8 4 07. He did tell me some of the motors he had replaced recently had the letter'S (R E) Attached to the serial number. Which means re-enginenerred or the old turm rebuilt. I told service manager i wanted a new engine only since the rest of the car was new . So when i go and pick up the car after the motor is installed i will verify that it is a new engine. If not some Hell will be raised ! Being a man with good credit if the engine is a rebuilt one. My credit may go from good to bad. As i plan on leaving the vehicle right where it is setting. I mean if Nissan can bail out G.M. they can afford to do the right thing for all of us with this problem. I am a 51 year old man and had planned on my wife driving it until it fell apart. I mean 200,000 miles at least. With gas getting higher and higher we are avoiding more and more un-nessary trips. I did go to sales department first since i heard they were giving a extra grand rebate $1000. Got my vehicle appraised and was very shocked at the offer i got on one of the new cars that had been sent back and come back for re-sale. I dont wanna lose my religion but they did make my blood presure boil. Hope this helps you and all concerned ! Will make another statement after engine is replaced.
  • chilledbillchilledbill Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problems with my 02 Altima, see below. Unfortunately, I am in for about $2,200 over 4 visits so far and the problem is still not fixed. Upon starting the engine it shakes and feels like its going to stall and the engine light comes on. They have changed 4 ignition coils, replaced a manifold, replaced a fuel resevoir and changed the plugs and wires twice. I want to drive my car into the nearest lake. (previous post problems aplly to me as well - 1. Oil consumption...I'm going through too much oil...Have to fill up almost every other day.
    2. It makes a rattling noise when I start the car.
    3. when in idle, it shakes and feels like it will shut off.
    4. hear a swoshing sound from the engine when I acelerate.. )
  • bperkbperk Member Posts: 38
    wwjcdo55, I am very interested in how you make out with your engine replacement. I too have the issue on my 06. At 3400 miles I have to put over a qrt of oil to make it back home. I was hoping to get it back to the dealer to look at but I was out of town and did not want to get stranded. I had an oil change this weekend and told the svr mgr what happened. He said mo problemo, come back in 700 and we will start the procedure to file the case. He also said Nissan pulled all his remaining 06's from the lot and took them back to the factory.
    I glad you mentioned about the "RE" tag on the engine. I will also insist I get a NEW engine and not a POS rebuilt.
    Take care, and Good luck.
  • txbeatztxbeatz Member Posts: 3
    The problem I am having with my car is that when I accelerate (putting gas on pedal hard) - my RPMs go up to about 3 or 4 and then drop, and I lose acceleration. This I noticed it in 5th gear, and in first… ( 94 altima , standard transmission btw) :confuse: I was messing with the airflow box / the hoses on the airflow... think this may have something to do with it ?
  • fernandez17fernandez17 Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone help me and tell me how easy it is to replace a rear brake light that went out on my 2005 Nissan Altima?
  • 06daddy06daddy Member Posts: 2
    When I use the automatic up feature on the driver side, the window goes all the way to the top and then comes back down about 4 inches. I think this is a side affect of a safety feature to keep you from crushing your fingers. I don't see anything stuck in the track. Is there a way to adjust the this feature?
  • bongo2363bongo2363 Member Posts: 7
    Would it would wise to purchase one of the '06 models that Nissan recalled with a new engine? The sales women told me that this particular car I wanted was returned to Nissan and has a new engine in it. I did not ask if it was rebuilt or not, but I could find out later. It makes me nervous purchasing it, even with the extended warranty. Will it also cause the value of the car to go down with this recall issue? They really aren't offering any great prices on them, excpet for the $1000 off. So, what would be a reasonable price for an SL model or should I just not buy it becasue of the recall?

    Thanks
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "Can anyone help me and tell me how easy it is to replace a rear brake light that went out on my 2005 Nissan Altima?"

    Full instructions with diagrams to access the bulbs in the rear combination lamp fixtures are on page 38 of section 8 in your 2005 Altima owner's manual. If you don't have the manual, you can download a PDF of the entire manual's text and graphics content from Nissan's website in their owner's section. PDF files require Adobe Reader - also a free download on Adobe's site.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Personally I wouldn't hesitate to accept a factory rebuilt engine if I were in the market for a 2006 Altima. These engines are given the full-Monty treatment in a Nissan-operated facility using the latest parts updates and Nissan service techniques and carry a longer warranty than the original factory warranty. Given that, I'll speculate that the rebuilds may've even been given extra TLC in freshening the cylinder honing and fitment of new piston rings since there's more riding on them to measure up to their extended warranties. So far, all that's been posted in these discussions about reduced resale/trade-in value of cars whose engines have been replaced is pure, unadulterated, Kentucky windage, poppy cock by people who may not know the difference between a crankshaft and a crankcase. (You know what they say about opinions and a certain anatomical orifice...;)) But, if you're nervous, then insist on a car with its original factory engine. Life's too short to take on extra worries.
  • wwjcdo55wwjcdo55 Member Posts: 10
    Personally i want never buy another Nissan. Toyota is soon to be #1 vehicle's on market ahead of GM Ford and other's. I will get the best out of my o6 Altima. By then Toyota will maybe in my town. Traveled 50 miles one way to buy this Nissan. Because of other family member's who have owned them for years with great result's. I mean 200,000 miles plus before major repairs. My motor is in as of today and will make a appointment for engine swap tommorrow. Upon service manager's approval of engine he was gone for the day when it arrived. I thought about trading it in the beginning but was deeply depressed about the offer i was given. So hopefully by the end of week i will be happy with my new ride ! The guy who made the smart remark should get a life and purchase a o6 Nissan. You will be surprised to find out the new engines dont have the power the one's that came in the car. But maybe way less oil consumption. Just hope the hi-way mileage is the same 33 M.P.G. AT 68 m.ph. with the a/c on is great for the size of the Altima.
  • teresphereteresphere Member Posts: 1
    :D Last year you had a code 440 on your Altima...Did you ever discover the problem? I have a 2000 Altima with 103K miles and have that same code. I wonder if it is the selenoid on the charcoal cannister...?
    Teresphere@yahoo.com
  • fernandez17fernandez17 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you ray_h1 I didn't have an owners manual, but I did replace the bulb and I'm ready to go, it seemed like brain surgery at first, but It was a piece of a piece of a cake to do. Thank you very much!
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    I don't have an Altima, but I like to download OMs when they're available from automaker sites to compare. The Altima's OM is particularly informative and comprehensive concerning routine service matters. I definitely recommend you download a copy of the 2005 OM from Nissan's site while you can. The only currently available issues are for 2005 and 2006 model years. Once the 2007 models come out, or shortly thereafter, I suspect the 2005 download will proabably be withdrawn.
  • smallcar1smallcar1 Member Posts: 76
    It was nearly 100 degrees and the temperature gauge does not go above half way to hot even in stop and go traffic so the car is cooling OK but the antifreeze is rusty, the rust etched into the overflow cap and there is a rust line in my one year old tailpipe after having driven only 5000 miles since it was replaced. The last flush was 3 years and 12000 miles ago.

    I was told by a radiator placea flush will not get rid of the rust for more than a day. What could cause the rust, can I get rid of it or should I get rid of the car.

    Thanks
  • dballdball Member Posts: 15
    Hello, I'm trying to find the best dealer for warranty service in Dallas - Ft. Worth. I've had a problem with wheel shimmy since day one with this car and I keep getting blown off by two dealers here in DFW. Anybody have a suggestion?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    smallcar1, could you supply a bit more background information on your car's cooling system servicing? Who changes your coolant when it's time - you, a dealer service department, or a radiator shop? What time/mileage schedule do you adhere to for coolant changeout? What brand of antifreeze do you use? Is it premix or concentrate? If concentrate, what do you use to dilute it to working strength - tap water out of a garden hose or distilled water? If tap water, is it treated by an ion-exchange residential water softener (one that requires periodic "recharges" with water-softener salt)?
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